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post #181 of 3067 Old 03-22-2010, 06:13 PM
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Awesome renderings. Iwish I could show my wife 3d drawings like yours. She would then have a better understanding of what I want to do.

I look forward to your progress.
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post #182 of 3067 Old 03-27-2010, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Mario, firstly you must use PT lumber if it is in contact with concrete, similarly you don't want insulation in direct contact with the concrete floor. Perhaps you could layer a sheet of polythene to separate the insulation from the concrete... but I'm not sure.

What if I used 2x2 PT against the floor concrete, then a layer of roofing felt, then 2x4 PT lumber with insulation?
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post #183 of 3067 Old 03-27-2010, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Awesome renderings. Iwish I could show my wife 3d drawings like yours. She would then have a better understanding of what I want to do.

I look forward to your progress.

Thanks. Only problem is you end up designing the room forever like me because you always think you can come up with a better looking room. It does help my wife and the builders see the final vision though.
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post #184 of 3067 Old 03-27-2010, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Well got two new sump pumps in. The only thing I'm worried about now is that I have a 15amp breaker for the existing sump. I realize that if the first pump fails, that the second will kick in, but the problem is between the two, they use about 21 amps. So I'm concerned that if the second is running, then the 1st (for some reason or another) decides to work again while the second is running, I'll blow the breaker.

So I think I'll have to have an electrician add a second breaker for the second sump pump.

The Generac Guardian should be getting installed sometime early next month.
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post #185 of 3067 Old 03-27-2010, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

What if I used 2x2 PT against the floor concrete, then a layer of roofing felt, then 2x4 PT lumber with insulation?

That's an interesting idea. The 2x4 needn't be PT in this case. You could also do something similar to what I did which was to layer dricore on the concrete and then frame on top of that with regular lumber and insulation.

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post #186 of 3067 Old 03-27-2010, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Moggie,
I thought of using DriCore initially, but given I'm not putting carpeting right ontop of it I thought it was an expensive overkill.

I could just do 2x2 PT, plywood, 2x4 PT, plywood.
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post #187 of 3067 Old 03-27-2010, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Hi Moggie,
I thought of using DriCore initially, but given I'm not putting carpeting right ontop of it I thought it was an expensive overkill.

I could just do 2x2 PT, plywood, 2x4 PT, plywood.

Have you priced the difference?
Dricore is about $1.50 a sq. ft
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post #188 of 3067 Old 03-29-2010, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Larry M,

Perhaps I didn't price it around enough, but it's about $2.81 / sq ft at Home Depot.

But then again, I don't know how much it will cost to build it using 2x2 PT plus plywood. I just assumed it would be cheaper.
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post #189 of 3067 Old 03-29-2010, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Larry M,

Perhaps I didn't price it around enough, but it's about $2.81 / sq ft at Home Depot.

But then again, I don't know how much it will cost to build it using 2x2 PT plus plywood. I just assumed it would be cheaper.

$2.81
It is $5.97 per 2'x2' section at HD in my area
Find one of those mover's coupon (10% off) at your post office (inside the "movers" packet) and it will negate the sales tax
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post #190 of 3067 Old 03-29-2010, 07:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Larry M,

Sorry - I had a brain fart. I divided by 2 instead of 4. It's actually closer to your estimate.
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post #191 of 3067 Old 03-29-2010, 07:13 AM
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Larry M,

Sorry - I had a brain fart. I divided by 2 instead of 4. It's actually closer to your estimate.

Thought maybe your region was crazy expensive
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post #192 of 3067 Old 04-10-2010, 06:09 AM
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Hi Mario,

(I caught this topic by accident) and thought I would make a suggestion.

I notice you have spec'd the Pana PTAE4000 as your projector. Its a great choice. I have used it several times now.

Just a suggestion for you. Are you aware of the possibile uses for the motorized lens memory feature? Think of it as kind of poor man's anamorphic lens.

If you are a fan of cinemascope movies, this feature would allow you to make use of a 2.35:1 screen instead of a 1.78:1 or 16:9 screen. The projector will automatically sense when you are displaying 2.35:1 materal and properaly fill the screen deleting the upper and lower black bars

When displaying 16:9 images, the overall height would remain the same but the undistorted 16:9 image would have unused screen image on the left and right sides instead of the other way around.

This cool Pana feature made me rethink my theatre plans to switch from a 1.78:1 to a 2.35:1 screen.

Ex. I will be using a 125" diagonal 2.35:1 (probably a Da-Lite Joe Kane Affinity model) screen which would yield a 100" 16:9 image when displaying HDTV or 1.78:1 material.

PS: Another suggestion... If I understand you correctly in that you are thinking of adding a star ceiling "after the fact", I would recommend that you plan for it properly NOW. I have completed 2 custom fibre optic ceilings (one 16' x 21'), and if there is one thing that is certain, these things can be an absolute nightmare if not properly designed and planned for ahead of time.

Overheard at a Best Buy....

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post #193 of 3067 Old 04-10-2010, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi CanadaPhil,

Thanks for tuning in.

I am planning on going with a 140" 2.35 screen at the moment. I was swayed by visitors to this thread.

My guess, budget willing, is that I will try to do the star ceiling at the time of construction. Being that I have never done one, it's probably going to be better that way in case I run into snags along the way.

Updates on my project:
My sump pump recently failed after working intermittently - seems like they last about 3.5 years. I've got a new primary and backup sump installed both with their own pipe running to the exterior. Just need to extend the run of the backup pump away from the house. I'm going to put the backup sump on its own circuit breaker just in case the first pops for some reason. You can never be too safe.

The plumber also put a silencer check valve on my ejector pump which is right next to the future theater...so now it's nice and quiet.

Also, had a natural gas line routed to the outside where our grill sits. It'll be nice not to have to swap propane tanks.

Met with the HVAC guy to see about zoning the basement and insulated ducts to the theater room. Also met with a Generac installer.

My pocketbook is getting banged around just prepping the basement for the future theater.

After meeting with the construction crew about the theater, they said it wouldn't take much to frame out the whole basement while they are here. So the plot thickens.
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post #194 of 3067 Old 04-11-2010, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Hi CanadaPhil,

Thanks for tuning in.

I am planning on going with a 140" 2.35 screen at the moment. I was swayed by visitors to this thread.

My guess, budget willing, is that I will try to do the star ceiling at the time of construction. Being that I have never done one, it's probably going to be better that way in case I run into snags along the way.

Updates on my project:
My sump pump recently failed after working intermittently - seems like they last about 3.5 years. I've got a new primary and backup sump installed both with their own pipe running to the exterior. Just need to extend the run of the backup pump away from the house. I'm going to put the backup sump on its own circuit breaker just in case the first pops for some reason. You can never be too safe.

The plumber also put a silencer check valve on my ejector pump which is right next to the future theater...so now it's nice and quiet.

Also, had a natural gas line routed to the outside where our grill sits. It'll be nice not to have to swap propane tanks.

Met with the HVAC guy to see about zoning the basement and insulated ducts to the theater room. Also met with a Generac installer.

My pocketbook is getting banged around just prepping the basement for the future theater.

After meeting with the construction crew about the theater, they said it wouldn't take much to frame out the whole basement while they are here. So the plot thickens.

Congrats on the progress, take a lot of pics of the construction phase
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post #195 of 3067 Old 04-11-2010, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Larry,

Baby steps...but steps nonetheless.
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post #196 of 3067 Old 04-12-2010, 03:40 PM
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Thanks Larry,

Baby steps...but steps nonetheless.

I hear ya, we're still under contract for our place. Picked out the bathroom tiles yesterday and almost made a decision on the hardwood floors but we want to see larger samples before we decide.

Construction should be finished in about 4-5 weeks and we should be closing on June 1st.

Then I can start the basement
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post #197 of 3067 Old 04-25-2010, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok - close to knocking off another item on my pre-construction list. The house generator should be installed early this week. This will not only cover both sump-pumps but also the fridges, critical lighting, office, garage doors, media closet, well, furnace, ejector pump and other mission critical items.

Question on the HVAC for the entire basement for those not entirely bored with this thread due to the slow progress. One HVAC installer recommended a return for every vent... while another didn't think that was necessary and only had one return in a large open entertainment area with 4 heat vents. Anyone have thoughts on this?
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post #198 of 3067 Old 04-25-2010, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Question on the HVAC for the entire basement for those not entirely bored with this thread due to the slow progress. One HVAC installer recommended a return for every vent... while another didn't think that was necessary and only had one return in a large open entertainment area with 4 heat vents. Anyone have thoughts on this?

Mario, one return would be fine if the space was to remain open, but if you split into airtight rooms (aka theater) you will need more returns. I.e. no air out of a sealed room means no air in!

Looking forward to seeing your build unfold..

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post #199 of 3067 Old 04-26-2010, 06:37 AM
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Hey Mario,

I have not been following your thread lately but I wanted to share something being as you are talking HVAC.

I am building a recording studio in Mpls and had the HVAC folks install sound attenuators. They are a little pricey but they are wonderful. They are about 2 feet long. I had one guy yelling in one side of it and I could not hear him from the other side. They work great and they just install in series with standard ductwork.

Didn't know if you needed them but if you are going to install a return in the theater you may want to look into them.

Joe

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post #200 of 3067 Old 04-26-2010, 08:58 AM
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I am building a recording studio in Mpls and had the HVAC folks install sound attenuators. They are a little pricey but they are wonderful. They are about 2 feet long. I had one guy yelling in one side of it and I could not hear him from the other side. They work great and they just install in series with standard ductwork.

Joe - do you have a link and cost?

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post #201 of 3067 Old 04-26-2010, 09:13 AM
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Joe - do you have a link and cost?

I do not have a brand name as the local HVAC company purchased them but they were $600 each on my bill.

Hope that helps.

Joe

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post #202 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Moggie,

Thanks for the info. Looks like the one return will work then.

Joe,

I'm not familiar with the Sound Attenuators. Are thos powered? It seems like a replacement for the dead vent concept?

Generator was installed yesterday. Now I can rest easily knowing the future theater won't flood. Since the theater is the lowest part of the house, it will also be my safe room during a tornado storm. It'll be nice to have the TV on tracking the storm as it heads my way and still have lights on.


I just need to make sure now that I've got the upstairs pre-wired the way I want before getting the additional trunk line for the HVAC installed in the basement. Once that goes in, it's going to limit my access to the above floor for wire runs. You'd think after running over 4 miles of cable for the main floor alone, I'd be pre-wired.

I plan to add an electrical floor box to our Great Room in case we want to add a table lamp or motorized couches. We have an end table where it can remain hidden until we need it.

I shifted some of my efforts to finalizing my entire basement plans and think I've come up with something I like. Now I just need to get back to final plans for the theater and figure out where the walls will land so I can move some plumbing.

I did end up adding a 6' x 6' foyer to the theater room. I'll probably hang some lighted movie posters and maybe a set of small chairs and table in there if there's room. So there will be a door into the theater foyer and then another door into the theater. I'll post the new plans soon.
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post #203 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 07:02 AM
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Joe,

I'm not familiar with the Sound Attenuators. Are thos powered? It seems like a replacement for the dead vent concept?

Mario, I'm not sure if this is what Joe is referring too, but these are inline duct mufflers.. ~$80 for a 8" one.

http://www.espenergy.com/dm108_8_duct_muffler.htm

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post #204 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 07:40 AM
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Mario, I'm not sure if this is what Joe is referring too, but these are inline duct mufflers.. ~$80 for a 8" one.

http://www.espenergy.com/dm108_8_duct_muffler.htm

That is not them. I will get the info and take some pics as I am going down to the studio today. The ones I used at the studio do not ahve any direct air path from one end to the other.

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post #205 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 08:58 AM
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That is not them. I will get the info and take some pics as I am going down to the studio today. The ones I used at the studio do not ahve any direct air path from one end to the other.

Joe

Sorry for the brief hijack, but had to ask - Joe, what happened to all the photos on your build thread? I know it's an old thread, but I was hoping to take a peek!

hanes

<< end hijack >>

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post #206 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 04:57 PM
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They should be working now. The DNS was screwed up. Thanks

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Originally Posted by hanesian View Post

Sorry for the brief hijack, but had to ask - Joe, what happened to all the photos on your build thread? I know it's an old thread, but I was hoping to take a peek!

hanes

<< end hijack >>


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post #207 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 05:04 PM
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Mario,

What size generator isthat? 20kW?

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post #208 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
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I am planning on going with a 140" 2.35 screen at the moment. I was swayed by visitors to this thread.

I too am planning to get the AE4000. I just wanted to put a note in this thread regarding that choice. From what I have read, and this is only from reading, not personal experience, a 140" screen will really be pushing the limits of that the ae4000 can illuminate. I'm just throwing in that word of caution.
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post #209 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Joe,
I decided to only go with an 8kw. I've been widdling down my energy usage thanks to our Energy Management software. I saved about $1100 on electric last year and I'm still continuing to use about 8% less this year than the year before that. The year before I was averaging around 25% savings from the prior year. Connecting the TED and doing some rules within our (Cinemar) software, I'm able to see what I'm on pace for each month and how many watts I'm using. Automating lights doesn't hurt as well.

Most of the big usage comes from the Microwave and stove which are not connected through the Generator. My main objective was to cover the sumps, ejector, basic lighting, well, furnace and office. All of which should fall under the usage requirements of this generator. Like you, we get quite a few tornado warnings...so it'll be nice to be able to see in the basement while we're hunkered down if the power goes out.

I'm almost anxious for the first power outage so I can break this bad boy in!

As a side note, I don't even think I've hit 20kw with my massive Christmas display I do every year. I know I come close though.
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post #210 of 3067 Old 04-27-2010, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelfling View Post

I too am planning to get the AE4000. I just wanted to put a note in this thread regarding that choice. From what I have read, and this is only from reading, not personal experience, a 140" screen will really be pushing the limits of that the ae4000 can illuminate. I'm just throwing in that word of caution.

Thanks Gelfling.

I'll have to run the numbers again. I knew it was pushing it but given the completely dark room I thought I'd be OK with it. Plus given that the room is partially designed around the screen...I'd rather go too big on it. The projector will probably be replaced before the screen (hopefully). If it really bothered me, I could design masking to shrink the screen down.
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