The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 82 - AVS Forum
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post #2431 of 3067 Old 10-10-2012, 10:10 AM
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Please don't. We are just giving you a hard time.
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post #2432 of 3067 Old 10-10-2012, 05:30 PM
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Hi Mario, so now that you've spent some time viewing & listening in your room how does the room sound to you? Any complaints or are you happy with what you've done in terms of acoustics? So the bottom portion of the wall (MDF) and the acoustic panels are flush with one another or close? I'm guessing the acoustic panels are about 3/4" thick or thereabouts. Thanks, Tom.

Just remembered, where did you get the denim and how did you achieve the thickness needed?
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post #2433 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tom Bley View Post

Hi Mario, so now that you've spent some time viewing & listening in your room how does the room sound to you? Any complaints or are you happy with what you've done in terms of acoustics? So the bottom portion of the wall (MDF) and the acoustic panels are flush with one another or close? I'm guessing the acoustic panels are about 3/4" thick or thereabouts. Thanks, Tom.
Just remembered, where did you get the denim and how did you achieve the thickness needed?

Hi Tom,

I think it sounds good. But I'm not sure that I think it sounds phenomenal.

It could just be that the bass is still lacking or that the room is too dead. Don't get me wrong, it sounds better than anything I've experienced in my own personal home. But until I have a chance to play around with the next phase of room measurements, I won't be able to tell you if I can make it sound better.

I bought the denim from Vyron Corporation. The spec's I believe read 1" thick but it turned out to be 3/4". If you look in my thread, you'll see how I built the panels that the denim fit into using 3/4" thick pine boards.

The acoustic panels sit right on top of the 3/4" MDF on the lower third of the wall.
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post #2434 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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So I attempted to remove the TCL logo from my LED Movie Poster display. Unfortunately it dulled the shine on the front but it did remove the logo. It looks like they have a TCL indent any ways stamped in. So I probably should have left it there. It's not terrible, but just enough for it to bother me. I'll probably have to build a frame now for the front. I was thining of using 1/4" thick mdf and then layering it with some type of bondo so by the end it will look glossly and shiny. I avoided the bondo earlier in the build, but may now need to tackle it. I'm open to other ideas as well.

I also took my M&K MX350 sub out from the center of the room and was about to perform a sub crawl. I noticed that the magnet underneath is pulling away. I'll probably need to try to get that glued back in again. I thought maybe if I moved the sub to another area in the room I might get a little more punch in the money seat.

While moving my center chair back into position, I managed to put a small cut into the adjoining leather chair right near the arm rest. I put a little hot glue on the tear to prevent it from being opened up further.

So not a good night for me.

Back to the sub position, I moved it into the front right corner cabinet since that seemed to sound pretty good during the sub crawl.

However, during playback of some clips, the bass seemed rather localized and you could tell it was coming from the front right corner.

So at the end of it all, I moved it back to the center. Perhaps having two subs in bother corners would even things out.
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post #2435 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 09:47 AM
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Could you have a CINEMAR decal made to cover the area? Maybe one for each side (I like symmetry:D) you could have the letters oriented vertically so it looks like it was supposed to be there. If its gonna be branded, it might as well be your brand, right?

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #2436 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 09:56 AM
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Could you try maybe buffing the area with some Meguiar's polish? I guess doesn't do anything about the indent though. The Cinemar logo is an interesting idea too.
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post #2437 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Could you have a CINEMAR decal made to cover the area? Maybe one for each side (I like symmetry:D) you could have the letters oriented vertically so it looks like it was supposed to be there. If its gonna be branded, it might as well be your brand, right?

Great idea. But the dullness goes right up to the edge of the screen. Which you wouldn't want to put the decal right up to.
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post #2438 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Could you try maybe buffing the area with some Meguiar's polish? I guess doesn't do anything about the indent though. The Cinemar logo is an interesting idea too.

Funny you should say that. I had tried Meguiar's ScratchX and I think it helped a little. Do you think their polish would do better?

The TCL black indent wouldn't bother me at all. Since it's still black on black and subtle.
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post #2439 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 10:04 AM
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I've only ever used the scratchx on metal, so not sure. I've used their products for polishing new lacquer finishes on wood, and it worked very well. I think they might also make a glass polish - they have so many products, I kind of get lost though.
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post #2440 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 11:17 AM
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I ran into this exact problem before with my Samsung LED tv and an IR emitter that had a really tiny dab of Super Glue on it to hold it in position since it seemed that no amount of the supplied replacement double-stick tape adhesive would hold. I tried to buff things clean and shiny on the plastic but to no avail whatsoever. Some things make it look a bit better, but you will always see it.

If you want it perfect, I would skip the Bondo, MDF frame, etc. Quite simply, I would mask off everything but the front facing part of the frame, do a very light scuff sand, then prime with plastic-grade primer and top with three to five coats of a high-gloss spray paint. You will obviously have to mask off any IR sensor if it is contained in the face frame. It will be perfect again in no time, provided you do a quality spray paint job with multiple light coats. Just my two cents.
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post #2441 of 3067 Old 10-13-2012, 07:45 PM
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Mario and Tim... are the LCD/LED displays you're referring to glass or plastic? If they are plastic Meguirs does make a product for polishing plastic called PlastX that has worked pretty well for me in automobile applications. Might be worth trying for 4 or 5 bucks before you go into crisis mode. Its fairly common and can be found at most Auto Zone's, Pep Boys, Walmart, etc. If it glass for both there are special compounds made by automotive cleaning product companies that DO work and should get rid of both issues. I'll try to reference some of them for you both. If I can find a more commercial use type product to recommend, I will.

Dont know if I posted here before Mario but I LOVE your theater. There's too many things I like to even post individual ones.
I'm subscribed and I've read all 80+ pages. I've been taking lots of notes and will continue to follow along.

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post #2442 of 3067 Old 10-14-2012, 08:46 AM
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The front of the Samsung was plastic. If it was glass it could have been scraped with a razor blade. The plastic polishing compounds do work to some extent, but are highly dependent on your technique, tools and time available to you. But it will be very difficult to get the same exact sheen in the "trouble spot" as the rest of the frame. So the alternative is to buff and polish the entire frame to get the same sheen throughout.

As it turned out, I got the Samsung TV so it looked presentable and can only be seen if you are looking at the frame from the side and in the right light. However, wince the affected area on Mario's display is essentially at eyeball height and you would routinely be walking right by it very closely, I am sure it will be noticed.....maybe only by Mario or an uber-OCD person like myself...but still a noticeable difference in luster. Mario could try to polish the plastic the best he can with these inexpensive plastic buffing products as a first attempt to correct the issue. But if it doesn't work out there is always spraying the entire frame or going the total concealment route of recreating the frame as Mario proposed.
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post #2443 of 3067 Old 10-15-2012, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for all the suggestions.

I pulled out my car cleaning supplies and tried some other products I had laying around. It did look a bit better after I tried a few of them. I think to the point that I can now live with it. I'd still like to try some of the meguiars PlastX (although it says its for clear plastic). Otherwise they have a polish that's also designed for darker colors so maybe that will do the trick. I'll need to stop into Autozone one of these days when I'm in the area. At this point, I'd rather not turn it into a large project of disassembling the bezel and everything for fear of just creating bigger problems.

But if I had to spray paint the frame, I'd probably end up going that route so I don't have to worry about masking.

This forum is great. Thanks guys for all the ideas and suggestions.
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post #2444 of 3067 Old 10-15-2012, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

So at the end of it all, I moved it back to the center. Perhaps having two subs in bother corners would even things out.

Dual subs should be a must in a theater of this quality. If you don't want to do dual subs up front, then you could get a couple of in-wall subs from Velodyne, Atlantic Technology, or Klipsch and hide them in a couple of columns on the side or in the rear. I know M&K's subs are expensive but you can get 2 Velodyne in-wall subs with their amplifier for under $2000 I believe. If you do actually decide to go with a multiple sub setup, you will never believe how you went without 2 subs to begin with.
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post #2445 of 3067 Old 10-16-2012, 05:24 AM
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Multiple subs should be a must in a theater of this quality smile.gif And with mario's building expertice I see no reason why he couldn't build some subs himself. A lot more bang for the buck! Lots of knowledge and helpful people over in the diy forums. smile.gif
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post #2446 of 3067 Old 10-16-2012, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Guys,

I was able to get rid of some older components to help justify the purchase of an HSU VTF-15H sub. It arrives this Friday!

I didn't want to do a DIY sub right out of the gates. I wanted to have at least one decent sub so I could get a feel for what it should sound like. That way if I do end up building my own, I won't be left wondering if it could sound better.
I'm also curious how it compares to the M&K MX350. I'm hoping it blows it out of the water.

I haven't done much research, but when I quickly looked at the DIY kits from Rythmik Audio, it didn't seem like it was a huge saving compared to just buying the HSU VTF-15H.
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post #2447 of 3067 Old 10-16-2012, 01:36 PM
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Congratulations Mario,

Your's is certainly one of if not the best looking Home Theater I have seen on these boards. Good to see you are moving to getting the sound right. As beautiful as your room is, when the lights are out, that the big immersive picture and audio system are what really counts. cool.gif

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post #2448 of 3067 Old 10-16-2012, 01:45 PM
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Check out what I just finished! Thank you to everyone who posted all your home theaters and advice!






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post #2449 of 3067 Old 10-16-2012, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jl43 View Post

Check out what I just finished! Thank you to everyone who posted all your home theaters and advice! [IMG

Cool looking space. You should really start your own build thread instead of posting in Mario's.
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post #2450 of 3067 Old 10-17-2012, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Congratulations Mario,
Your's is certainly one of if not the best looking Home Theater I have seen on these boards. Good to see you are moving to getting the sound right. As beautiful as your room is, when the lights are out, that the big immersive picture and audio system are what really counts. cool.gif

You bet.

I ordered the following items yesterday from Parts-Express and plan to use REW to help dial in the room.

1 242-743 JAMSTANDS JS-MCTB200 TRIPOD MIC STAND W/TELESCOPING BOOM
1 248-574 BEHRINGER XENYX 502 MIXER 5-INPUT 2-BUS
12 260-770 PENN-ELCOM F1686 RUBBER CABINET FOOT 1.57" DIA. X 0.61" H
1 390-801 DAYTON AUDIO EMM-6 ELECTRET MEASUREMENT MICROPHONE
1 241-348 DAYTON AUDIO CMX-25K XLR MICROPHONE CABLE 25 FT. BLACK

I'm planning on building a 3/4" thick platform the size of the HSU sub and putting the Rubber Cabinet feet underneath it. Then set the HSU sub on top of the platform to help decouple it. This will also make it easier to get in/out of my front cabinet.
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post #2451 of 3067 Old 10-17-2012, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Check out what I just finished! Thank you to everyone who posted all your home theaters and advice!

Very nice.

It looks like you are making sound tracks for movies!
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post #2452 of 3067 Old 10-17-2012, 09:31 AM
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Very impressive jl43, and I would definitely second the request for a dedicated build thread - or built thread maybe would be more appropriate - to see more and get some info on your setup.
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post #2453 of 3067 Old 10-17-2012, 10:13 AM
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Sure.
Here's a couple pics. As I've shown in this thread, I elevated my led strip by about 1.25" to get higher than the black lights (which I still need to install 7 more).
I put the lights closer to the wall so they would have a better chance of clearing the height of the black lights which are sitting in the crown cavitiy itself.
IMG_0890_small.jpg
IMG_0898_small.jpg
I left a gap in my led board elevators so I could squeeze the cables for the blacklights through and not have to go over the led's which would create a shadow on the ceiling.
In the corners, I also made a swooping loop so that they wouldn't be dark. You loop it around and then come back under.
IMG_0899_small.jpg
I have plenty of room to add another led row if I want too. But the effect is pretty amazing when you look up from the center of the room and you can't see any corners. It really looks like it goes on forever.

Mario - Have you had any issues with your LED lighting since the initial install? I am looking to do the same thing and wondered if having four strands of lights on one power source is acceptable. If not, did you add another power adapter along with another ir controller?
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post #2454 of 3067 Old 10-17-2012, 10:16 AM
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...plan to use REW to help dial in the room.
Excellent!
I hope you are willing/able to share your progress on this project. It seems like this is the next frontier here in this subforum, and it's thorny and complicated. If you can bring half the attention to detail to this process that you did for the main part of the build, you will get great results, I'm sure.
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post #2455 of 3067 Old 10-17-2012, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jl43 View Post

Check out what I just finished! Thank you to everyone who posted all your home theaters and advice! [IMG

Cool looking space. You should really start your own build thread instead of posting in Mario's.

Agreed, would love to see your "built" thread. Railings are cool.
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post #2456 of 3067 Old 10-18-2012, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Mario - Have you had any issues with your LED lighting since the initial install? I am looking to do the same thing and wondered if having four strands of lights on one power source is acceptable. If not, did you add another power adapter along with another ir controller?

I thought I mention this in the thread, but I had to use two separate power supplies in the soffit to get equal brightness. Both runs are equal distance. Using one power supply that comes with it won't be enough. I'm guessing you could get a beefier power supply or amplifier that may solve the problem. But I found the lights got dimmer as you add the third strand toward the end.
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post #2457 of 3067 Old 10-18-2012, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I thought I mention this in the thread, but I had to use two separate power supplies in the soffit to get equal brightness. Both runs are equal distance. Using one power supply that comes with it won't be enough. I'm guessing you could get a beefier power supply or amplifier that may solve the problem. But I found the lights got dimmer as you add the third strand toward the end.

So how did you hook in a second power supply then? You are still only using one ir controller right? Or are you running two completely separate systems?
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post #2458 of 3067 Old 10-18-2012, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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So how did you hook in a second power supply then? You are still only using one ir controller right? Or are you running two completely separate systems?

That's right. They essentially two independent IR controlled systems. Not that it's desirable, but I can have half the soffit one color and the other half another color.

I have both LED power sources plugged into a single Insteon applicance module. This allows me to press a keypad button at the entrance to turn them both on/off together using the last selected color. I can also do it with my IR remote. Eventually it'll go into MainLobby's user interface too from the iPad.

I haven't done too much with changing the colors so it hasn't been a big deal.
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post #2459 of 3067 Old 10-22-2012, 09:34 AM
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Great, great theater and one I use as inspiration.

I was wondering on your riser, I like the look of hte wood trim around the edge instead of pulling over the carpet from the floor. Do you have any details on its constructions?
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post #2460 of 3067 Old 10-23-2012, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Great, great theater and one I use as inspiration.
I was wondering on your riser, I like the look of hte wood trim around the edge instead of pulling over the carpet from the floor. Do you have any details on its constructions?

Thanks LexMan.

Yes. There's quite a bit of detail in this thread. It starts on this page:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1208912/the-cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread/1080#post_21402720

And continues on many pages after that during the various construction phases.
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