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post #1 of 3084 Old 12-22-2009, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner

Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000

 

 

AVS Home Theater of the Month

 

 

SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT WIDE LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* FRONT HIGH LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX

* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H

* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each


ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)

* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35

VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW

* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"

* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"

 


EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max

* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360

* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60

* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby

* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 

CARPETING

* Masland Quadrate Times Square

 

FABRIC

* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric

* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric

* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material

* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet


SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals

 

VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER

* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM

D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIxtzX_fznk

 

BASS SHAKERS

Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)


UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 

 

FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 

 

 

COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 

FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 

LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 

iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 

THREAD INDEX

* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started

* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed

* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack

* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet

* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater

* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started

* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed

* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB

* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing

* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell

* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater

* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits

* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction

* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls

* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up

* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram

* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram

* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers

* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads

* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction

* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram

* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips

* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started

* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions

* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler

* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit

* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram

* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel

* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed

* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return

* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels

* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones

* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes

* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked

* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling

* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)

* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)

* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins

* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall

* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives

* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating

* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up

* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System

* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement

* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed

* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins

* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started

* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed

* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled

* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform

* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform

* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater

* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started

* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started

* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps

* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render

* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand

* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render

* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps

* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed

* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen

* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall

* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside

* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights

* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area

* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit

* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated

* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column

* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements

* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets

* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements

* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos

* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding

* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater

* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric

* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black

* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights

* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames

* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall

* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns

* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose

* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw

* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion

* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row

* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage

* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step

* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage

* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage

* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws

* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns

* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet

* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side

* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames

* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame

* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame

* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction

* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render

* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed

* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction

* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors

* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches

* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit

* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor

* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220

* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap

* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 

* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 

* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 

* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction

* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room

* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding

* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail

* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render

* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS

* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board

* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding

* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels

* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]

* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction

* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock

* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs

* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame

* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing

* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar

* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig

* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood

* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators

* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray

* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings

* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room

* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint

* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door

* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting

* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed

* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby

* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface

* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction

* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)

* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair


Mario


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post #2 of 3084 Old 12-22-2009, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Just wondering if anyone has thoughts or improvements on current left/right surround speaker placement. I think the placement is ideal for the back row, but not so much for the front row which will have the D-Box motion. The speakers are shown above in the PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN image in white.

One idea I had was to have a speaker selector and put speakers in the ideal position for both rows. Then I could automate which row of speakers I want to turn on depending upon if both rows are occupied or if it's just me sitting in the front row watching a D-Box movie.

Mario


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post #3 of 3084 Old 12-22-2009, 06:09 PM
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Nice equipment you have there and a nicely sized space.

I think the ideal place for you side surrounds would be moved forward to the columns that are just behind the front row...or you could have 2 sets of side surrounds wired together as long as you have the equipment to push them.

You have the depth -- are you planning on an AT screen?

Where is your equipment going? It looks like it will go to the left at the HT entrance?

John
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post #4 of 3084 Old 12-22-2009, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks John. The speakers are dipole/tripole so I'm not sure if that makes a big difference as to which column they should go into. BTW, I have complete flexibility of where the columns go. I just happened to position them where they are now based upon ideal speaker position acquired from Dolby's website.

I guess I'll have to look at the specs on the RX-V1 and see if it can drive the four M&K surrounds. Is that ideal to have four speakers given the two rows of seating? I have one spare M&K surround so I'd just need to get one more. Yamaha also has their front effects channel which would allow me to place two more speakers in the front of the room in the upper corners. So I'll probably plan for that too.

You are correct. I'll have a small rack in the entry (to the left as you walk-in). I plan to have the theater also connected to the whole house audio/video distribution system so I can share HD cable, XBOX360, PS3, etc. I plan to have a dedicated RX-V1 and MLP-1000 for that room. The MLP-1000 will also drive the D-box software. I plan to also have one other amp to drive some Aura bass shakers in the back row so no one feels left out.

I decided against an AT screen given the closeness of the front row. I didn't want the screen to get too much closer to the front row. It's already a pretty big picture for the distance and on top of that, the front row will feel like you are on a roller coaster with the D-Box.

I wanted to go with 2.35 screen, but opted for a 1.85 instead for this same reason. Making the screen any wider forces the front row to really scan the screen.

Mario


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post #5 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like I may need to upgrade the theater to a newer receiver than the Yamaha RX-V1. While it works great, the speaker configuration is not like the setup's I've seen by newer receivers. This RX-V1 didn't have options for side surrounds (rear left/right instead) and uses a rear center channel.
I guess I'll continue to use that in our Great Room.

Mario


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post #6 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 07:37 AM
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Nice space. I'd agree to move the side surrounds forward.

There are lots of things to consider for the isolation. All depends on how far you want to go.

- Isolation of structure
- Controlling leaks via HVAC, outlets, switches, lights, etc.
- Additional mass for the walls

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post #7 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 07:41 AM
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Is that a double door in the back (I'm hoping)?

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post #8 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post

Nice space. I'd agree to move the side surrounds forward.

There are lots of things to consider for the isolation. All depends on how far you want to go.

- Isolation of structure
- Controlling leaks via HVAC, outlets, switches, lights, etc.
- Additional mass for the walls

Bryan

Bryan,

I'm still researching these area's and learning more each day. In regards to HVAC, I plan to have the basement on it's own zone. When I built the place, they just had the whole house on the same zone. (I had radiant floor heating installed in the basement, but it wasn't done correctly to be efficient enough to even use...long story). So I will be using forced air in the basement for heating. I'm assuming I want to replace any runs over the theater and to the theater with insulated ducts regardless of whether that feed services the upstairs or downstairs...does that sound right?

I believe the recommendation is to use double 5/8" drywall on all walls including those next to the foundation. My room is quickly getting smaller and smaller. So I was hoping to get away with just 5/8" on the foundation walls. The back row of seats is pretty wide and getting closer and closer to the wall and column. I think I'm around 1'8" of space to walk through the aisle.

All lights should be contained within soffits. My thought was to insulate the ceiling and then have (2) 5/8" drywall plus GG on the ceiling and then build the soffit in the room that would contain the lights. So I'm not sure if it would be critical or not to go overboard on sound isolation. Recommendations are welcome. My most important objective is to prevent sound from getting to the rooms above - especially my daughters. The woman who lives upstairs, my wife, would not be happy.

Mario


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post #9 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 08:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Is that a double door in the back (I'm hoping)?

Ted,

I initially intended to do a double door into the theater - thought it would look cool looking in from the outside. But on the other side of that wall I plan to put cabinetry for the kitchen/bar area. My bar plan is rough at this point so I have some flexibility, but I am working around a drain for the sink that is already stubbed in. The drain actually falls somewhat within the theater room. So I was going to build a false wall around it. The sink as shown in the drawings is actually to the left of where the drain is.

My other concerns was sound leakage through a double door.

Mario


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post #10 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 08:12 AM
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If you're interested send me a PM with your email and I'll forward a couple of articles to you. One involves Ventilation, the other Soffit Construction.

I'd point out that the soffits make great locations for "mufflers," but not so straightforward if there are light fixtures involved.

For the explanation for double drywall against the foundation walls, imagine a high energy sound wave penetrating a single drywall layer on the wall. Where can that sound wave go? We're not concerned with this wave passing into the dirt on the other side of the foundation. We're concerned that the sound wave will head straight up into the joists overhead. Flanking your ceiling construction efforts.

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post #11 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Ted,

I initially intended to do a double door into the theater - thought it would look cool looking in from the outside. But on the other side of that wall I plan to put cabinetry for the kitchen/bar area. My bar plan is rough at this point so I have some flexibility, but I am working around a drain for the sink that is already stubbed in. The drain actually falls somewhat within the theater room. So I was going to build a false wall around it. The sink as shown in the drawings is actually to the left of where the drain is.

My other concerns was sound leakage through a double door.

Sorry, I wasn't clear at all. When I said "double door," I was referring to two doors that when closed create an airlock. Not side-by-side "french" doors.

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post #12 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Ted - do you have a link to the doors you are referring to? I was thinking french doors.

Here's a pic of the bigger rough plan. I have some support beams and stubbed items to contend with.


Mario


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post #13 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Is that a double door in the back (I'm hoping)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Ted,

I initially intended to do a double door into the theater - thought it would look cool looking in from the outside. But on the other side of that wall I plan to put cabinetry for the kitchen/bar area. My bar plan is rough at this point so I have some flexibility, but I am working around a drain for the sink that is already stubbed in. The drain actually falls somewhat within the theater room. So I was going to build a false wall around it. The sink as shown in the drawings is actually to the left of where the drain is.

My other concerns was sound leakage through a double door.

You almost got Ted excited there, for a second.

John
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post #14 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 09:04 AM
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http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...cles/flanking/

Toward the end of this article is some discussion on doors. If the walls are to be decoupled via framing such as double stud construction, you would have sufficient space to install the tow doors back to back. One opens in to the theater, the other opens out toward the bathroom. When both are closed, they seal a 3-5" air cavity.

As BPape said, doors, ventilation, outlets. lighting all need to be planned before you start. All are potential leaks and flanking paths.

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post #15 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Ted,

Thanks for the great resources you sent and link. They will prove to be very helpful. My mind is still numb from all the forum reading I've been doing. The illustrations are great and answer a ton of questions.

I've honestly never seen a "double door" like that in a home. But I have the space to do it.

I'm assuming the doorway may need to be double stud (8" thick) instead of a staggered stud wall that is only 6" deep?

Mario


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post #16 of 3084 Old 12-23-2009, 10:45 AM
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Believe me, you'll be glad you invested the time to get a grasp on the sound isolation systems now, rather than later. It's much easier to implement at this point, obviously.

The double doors can work with the 2x6 staggered stud depth, but the double stud wall is better for a few reasons:

The cavity in the double stud configuration is deeper and this directly relates to better low frequency isolation.

The double stud config has less opportunity for conduction through the common top and bottom plates of the staggered wall.

The added depth allows for more space between the doors, which helps.

Keep in mind that a small "lobby" placed just outside the theater can do an even better job due to the larger air cavity between the doors. Such a lobby might only be 6' x 6', but may figure better into the design.

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post #17 of 3084 Old 01-08-2010, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Ted,

Do I need to using Sound Isolation Clips on staggered stud walls or double stud walls? It looks like according to your website diagrams they aren't really necessary in those cases.

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post #18 of 3084 Old 01-08-2010, 03:21 PM
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Nope. Clips decouple, and the framing you mentioned decouples. Clips on staggered wall is redundant.

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post #19 of 3084 Old 01-09-2010, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Ted. Every little inch counts.

I was searching for information on how to handle sound proofing of cold air returns. Any advice or reference articles you can point me to?


On another subject, while I have bought BiPole/Tripole speakers, I'm not sure I honestly know enough about them and how that might affect their positioning in my theater. Also, whether it's good to have them in tripole or dipole mode. Can anyone shed some light on the subject? The speakers in question are the M&K SS-150THX.

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post #20 of 3084 Old 01-09-2010, 04:06 PM
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We have articles on the subject if you'd care to PM me your email address...

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post #21 of 3084 Old 01-11-2010, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I've started playing around with more ideas for the screen wall and also some trim/molding/chair rail concepts.

Here's a wireframe cutout view. After looking around the web for some color ideas...I'm leaning towards black columns and "fake" wainscoting (trim over drywall). This will also help to disguise the built in speakers and darken the room. Then fabric colored panels on the top half of the wall with trim around it to help splash some color into the room. The raised soffit will provide a cool effect to a future star ceiling.

Always interested in feedback or suggestions.


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post #22 of 3084 Old 01-11-2010, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's a view looking towards the screen wall.


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post #23 of 3084 Old 01-11-2010, 11:58 AM
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Wow, with an area sunken that far, I would build a false floor to run cables and such through. How high are the ceilings above the "Upper tier" of that foundation ?
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post #24 of 3084 Old 01-11-2010, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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3Z3VH,

Here's a side view elevation wireframe that shows the dimensions.


There's not much space between the last step and front stage step - only 2'4". So I've thought about just eliminating that bottom step and moving the stage up vertically even with it. Essentially a false floor like you mentioned. But I just hate to give up the headroom although it doesn't really matter. It's just the premise. I'm dropping the soffit down around the room by about 13" to get around some pipes, so I'll have plenty of room to get cables around the room. So the decision to eliminate the last step and just bump the stage up 5.75" is merely cosmetic. I'll just have to make sure I have enough room to fit the M&K sub in the builtin I have planned should I lose that 5.75".

I ended up going with the 5.75" rise on the steps so the difference in the two rows would be 11.5". Which seemed to provide a more optimal viewing experience.

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post #25 of 3084 Old 01-11-2010, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Well - thought I'd take it one step further and add some more detail to the renderings. Here are some various views of the room. Still need to hash out the screen wall.











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post #26 of 3084 Old 01-11-2010, 10:10 PM
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Awesome space you'll have there. Very classy looking. I like the wainscoting but you might want to talk to BPape to see how it is going to effect your acoustics. I'm sure you could still pull off the look but you might need to consider some other materials.

What rendering software are you using?

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post #27 of 3084 Old 01-12-2010, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks spaceman lee for the advice. I am trying to balance looks with form and function.

As I was thinking about acoustics...I wondered what, if anything, putting GOM fabric on drywall will do? My guess since it's acoustically transparent that it would require me to wrap the GOM fabric around some type of other surface to absorb sound and then add to the wall.

Mario


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post #28 of 3084 Old 01-12-2010, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention spacemanlee, I'm using Newtek's Lightwave3D software.

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post #29 of 3084 Old 01-12-2010, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Thanks spaceman lee for the advice. I am trying to balance looks with form and function.

As I was thinking about acoustics...I wondered what, if anything, putting GOM fabric on drywall will do? My guess since it's acoustically transparent that it would require me to wrap the GOM fabric around some type of other surface to absorb sound and then add to the wall.

It's a tough balancing act, isn't it? You want it to look great (which yours does) but it better sound great too after all that hard work.

You are correct that you need to add acoustic material between the fabric and drywall. You will see different approaches (frames, tracks, furing strips). Check out the acoustic thread for some ideas. I think I'm going with frames but need to do a little research on the tracks.

I think you could probably get the wainscoting look you are after with fabric over acoustic material. You would just need to strategically place furing strips behind the fabic so you have something to attach your trim to.

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post #30 of 3084 Old 01-13-2010, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Spaceman,

I thought the soundproofing was a learning curve, but understanding acoustics is even more information overload after scouring this forum.

Looks like I'm going to have to continue doing more research in that area.

Now I remember why it's taken me 6 years to get going on this theater.

I played around with the idea of removing the step before the stage at the front of the room and just raising the stage/screen wall up 5.75". If I do happen to do that, I'll have to see how I would handle soundproofing below that. The sump pump is on the other side and is pretty loud when it runs.

I also added some wood tread to the stairs and modified the screen wall a bit.



I used a wide angle lens on this shot, so it makes the room appear bigger than it really will be. But it allows me to see more of the room in a single frame.



Mario


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