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post #61 of 840 Old 01-06-2010, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Any recommendations for rope lighting and small can lights. I dont want to install the can lights in the ceiling but rather in a soffit. I was thinking maybe led but it doesnt matter but I do want a warm colored light. Not the bright white.

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post #62 of 840 Old 01-07-2010, 09:11 AM
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Soffit installation of lights is great, as long as the soffit is not also being used for ventilation. If that's the goal, you have to carefully compartmentalize the soffit into a lighting section and a ventilation section.

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post #63 of 840 Old 01-07-2010, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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You got it Ted. I'm on it. I want to do something very similar to what Sandman has done with the lighting on the inner trim and then vents and bass traps in the main compartment of the soffit. I don't want to use the same lights that he did simply because of the heat generated by what he used. I am hoping that someone can give me some real world experience with some other lights.

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post #64 of 840 Old 01-08-2010, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Has anyone used Fosi for their star ceiling and how much did you spend per square foot?

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post #65 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Ran into a few installation questions on the room within a room. First how do you end the drywall. If the wall is mounted 1 inch away from the foundation how do I make a corner and attach the drywall on the corner? I am thinking I just butt the drywall against it and seal it with caulk? I also have an issue with the ceiling around the fireplace. Right now the rock was installed after the drywall was put in originally and finishes up against it. If I am to add rails and clips to the ceiling and use dd with gg I will add at least an inch further down. On top of that I am thinking of adding a fauk ceiling with a star field to it bringing it down possibly another 1-1.5". Since the rock on the fireplace is so jagged it would make it a very and I mean very time consuming method to try to cut the drywall to its shape. Has anyone ever trimmed their stone fireplace? Or is there a better method to resolve this?

I also am getting a quote from Fosi. We'll see what their star ceiling pricing is.

Here is a pic of the fireplace


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post #66 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 07:20 AM
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Nice fireplace.

The drywall comes together in the corners where there is standard corner framing for nailers. Butt the board tight everywhere, then seal.

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post #67 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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So just butt the drywall to the foundation that is a bout 1" away from framing and seal with sealant. Got it. I also just realized that the load bearing wall is already made from 2x6s. I wouldnt think that that would matter if making it into a staggered wall. Overall dimensions would then be a 8 inch thick wall with 2x4s in the inner wall framing. Thats not a problem is it.

Ted you are all over the forums. I request that you get your own section on the forums. LOL Do you sleep?

Does anyone know if you can mount a middle atlantic rack right to the ground and still use their track extensions. I dont have the track yet but need to mount the rack and start transferring my components to it. I am going to order the track on Monday but I am afraid that I have to mount the rack up off the ground. Does anyone have experience with this. I have an AXS non swivel rack and am going to get the track50 if that helps. I wasnt sure if they put bracing underneath the track.

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post #68 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb View Post

So just butt the drywall to the foundation that is a bout 1" away from framing and seal with sealant. Got it. I also just realized that the load bearing wall is already made from 2x6s. I wouldnt think that that would matter if making it into a staggered wall. Overall dimensions would then be a 8 inch thick wall with 2x4s in the inner wall framing. Thats not a problem is it.

No, no. You have an outer wall perimeter. The foundation is part of that. Then there is the inner wall system. This framed wall is 1" or so away from the foundation. The drywall is applied to the interior surfaces of the inner wall system. See some of the images in this: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...within_a_room/

The drywall stays on the inner surface of the inner stud system.

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post #69 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
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I think I understood you correctly but I dont think I have expressed my question correctly. Take a look at the picture below. I know the drywall needs to be mounted to the inside of the inside wall but at some point it has to be mounted to the outside wall. In my drawing you can see the shaded area would be the drywall from the inside to the outside wall. In my case right next to the fireplace but in other cases it would be the door entrance. I am saying that you take the drywall from the inside wall to the edge of the exterior wall and caulk with the sound sealant to make a seal and you do not actually screw the drywall to the exterior wall and/or studs mounted to the exterior wall. Your link does not show anywhere how to mate the two walls when needed and I am having trouble finding it anywhere. I hope my picture help explain what I am asking.


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post #70 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 09:02 AM
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Your inner drywall will have to butt up to the fireplace, but I'm not seeing how the inner drywall would ever contact the foundation.

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post #71 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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This time I am including pictures of the area of concern. To me it would be very similar to what someone would need to do for a door opening. At some point you have to attach the inner wall to the exterior wall in order to get in and out. I included a diagram to a similar situation to a door opening below. the one of my fireplace. The fireplace is actually further in than the wall itself so once I build an interior wall it will have the gap between the interior and exterior wall. I hope this makes more sense. If not think about just the door situation and I can adapt from there.


Also, once the kids saw the camera I HAD to take a picture of them or they wouldnt leave me alont. They love their picture taken.

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post #72 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 09:47 AM
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Too cute...

That gap in between doors is simply filled with a bead of sealant and covered with a piece of wood trim. You can attach the trim piece on one side of the gap only. That's about as decoupled as is practical

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post #73 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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OK. I'll rip a board down to 3/4" to fill the 1" gap and fill the rest with caulk. Then lay the drywall over that and caulk the edges of that.

Any advice for cutting the fireplace rocks near the ceiling to accomidate the height difference?

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post #74 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 10:06 AM
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No drywall on the door jambs

QUOTE: "Any advice for cutting the fireplace rocks near the ceiling to accomidate the height difference?"

Man... That's going to be interesting... I'd imagine you'll be rough cutting the drywall and then using sealant.

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post #75 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Also,

Would I get noticeable better "LFE proofing" if I were to have a 3-4" gap rather than 1" or would I need to step up to >12"?

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post #76 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 10:12 AM
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Good Question. I don't have the data in front of me at the moment, but the air cavity depth is a big factor to lower the LF resonance point = better LF isolation. People use 1" since we're all fighting for every 1/4" in all directions, but if the space is available, 3-4" is definitely better than 1"

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post #77 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 10:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I wont use drywall on the jambs. I was referring to the fireplace area. I think I understand what you are saying and will apply that to that area. Basically I will install a 3/4" piece in between the gap from the pic on the 7th post earlier. Then caulk to the foundation(exterior wall).

I was going to see if there was a blade that I can buy for my circular saw in order to just rip along the edge. I hope I wouldnt need a huge cement saw. If that was the case I would just cut along the drywall to match the best I can and caulk from there.

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post #78 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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When you insulate is it best to use as thick of insulation as possible or to insulate with r19 and leave an air gap?

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post #79 of 840 Old 01-09-2010, 01:09 PM
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Walls are R13 and ceilings R19. That'll generally be all you need.

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post #80 of 840 Old 01-10-2010, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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OK. I think I have the room isolation all set in motion and I know what I am going to do. If there is anything that I may be forgetting I would appreciate a heads up.

I also PMd Dennis Erskine to see what it would cost for a room evaluation and suggestions for acoustical treatment and build since I am still early in planning but closer than I think.

I am going to tear down the soffit drywall today along with getting the rack rough-in done and some other smaller things. I'll try and post pics later today.

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post #81 of 840 Old 01-10-2010, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some decent work done today for the time spent. Got the toilet fixed in my sons room. Now hopefully he'll get off diapers. LOL Here are some before pics of the utility room and the room before the theater where the equip rack will go. Then you can see the difference of the insulation and then I made some joist speaker boxes for the in walls of the adjoining basement room. We use this room for card playing and my wife uses it as a craft room also.

Our master bedroom is right above the utility room and also this multi purpose room in the basement and when things are even mildly loud it transfers too well into the master. I have noticed a big difference since the insulation alone and the boxes for the speakers.





Also got the soffit drywall down and cleaned up. I needed this down first so that the HVAC guys can come in to see how they will be doing the multi - zone setup. Along with that I have this what I thought was a water leak ticking noise when the guest bathroom uses water and i sometimes hear it when the kitchen is using water. I thought for sure I would be able to see something once this came down but I am lost. It also only seems to be there in the winter but it sounds exactly like water dripping. I hope to get all of the lines that are spread out in the soffit brought in closer together and talk with them about possibly raising the ducts. We'll see.

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post #82 of 840 Old 01-11-2010, 05:40 AM
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Not the fun part, eh?

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post #83 of 840 Old 01-11-2010, 05:55 AM - Thread Starter
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No it is not. Here is a sketch up I did for my room. It is pretty rough as I dont know what program or how to use an actual computer program for this. I am a bit worried that the room is almost a square and dont know how to correct this. Advice from my plan from anyone would be greatly appreciated. I believe that my front row is alot closer than people normally would sit especially to a 12' screen but I dont mind it and actually have preffered to sit that close. It is 2x the screen height and that may be normal Im not sure.


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post #84 of 840 Old 01-11-2010, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been trying to think of a way to narrow down the room for acoustics reason but am having trouble finding the room calculator that I had before to determine what is best and also what is best for this room. Essentially it is 22.5x20.

Help would be much appreciated. Is there anything else I should consider before complete teardown of the walls and ceiling.

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post #85 of 840 Old 01-11-2010, 10:57 AM
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Just remember to take a deep breath and relax. This is supposed to be a fun hobby!

Looks like you're off to a good HT 2.0!

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post #86 of 840 Old 01-11-2010, 11:45 AM
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I wouldn't sacifice room so that you have a better "ratio". It's fine as it is.
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post #87 of 840 Old 01-11-2010, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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URGH Wife calls- HI Honey, We have a problem in the basement.

MeWhat now?

Wife: I came home and the house had a musty smell so I checked the basement and there is water in the utility room.

Me: WHAT

Short story. Pressure valve burst on the hot water heater. Stupid Whirlpool and Lowes. Well I guess my plan for a tankless water heater just stepped up a notch. Company said it may be around $2700

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post #88 of 840 Old 01-11-2010, 12:52 PM
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oh man...

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post #89 of 840 Old 01-11-2010, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Luckily no serious damage occured except my blood pressure. Concrete is a little damp but only in the utility room. There goes 3k that would have been nice to put into the theater.

Easy come
Easy go

Isnt that what they say

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post #90 of 840 Old 01-12-2010, 06:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Ted,

I was wondering that since I have the ductwork exposed is it beneficial at all to apply sound deadner to the actual ducts? I was thinking of adding a 2'x2' square on each section in hopes it would help noticeably.

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