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post #181 of 840 Old 01-25-2010, 06:51 AM
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The sand is definately good. Fill the whole stage. The concept of partially filling the stage comes up every so often, but the consensus is to fill it all.

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post #182 of 840 Old 01-25-2010, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Does the stage need filled even if I don't put speakers on it since it is so close to the speakers? I noticed a thread where the front stage is in two zones. One that has sand for the speaker and the one in front of that that is filled with insulation. I know that if I put my speakers on a stage that I will fill that section with sand but if I could do just a section that does not attach to the other then I may build something to put the speakers on.

My main question is if having the speakers/subs on a sand filled stage if it makes a big difference than straight to the concrete?

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post #183 of 840 Old 01-25-2010, 07:31 AM
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Oh, like the playback quality? On stage vs. on concrete? Sorry I missed that. One of the in-room acoustics guys can chime in, but I'm not thinking playback will be affected one way or the other. I'd think the bigger issue is getting the location / placement right.

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post #184 of 840 Old 01-25-2010, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Playback and also sound transmission through the concrete. Does a sand filled stage add that much to sound isolation? If all of my speakers are behind the screen then I could start the stage right behid the screen wall as anything behind that is a waste.

My understandings of a stages purpose is to raise the speakers up if need be and to make it look purty Other than that I don't know the reasons and if they are slight I wont do it as I don't have windows in my basement and I don't (let me repeat myself DON"T) want to carry all that sand if it wont make a big difference.

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post #185 of 840 Old 01-25-2010, 09:58 AM
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The hollow cavities of the stage present a more difficult situation than the hollow riser. Proximity and tactile contact with the speakers are the reason a stage is treated differently than any other hollow cavity in the room.

The sand is primarily to defeat the resonance of the hollow stage cavities. We're not as concerned about the vibration entering the concrete slab.

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post #186 of 840 Old 01-25-2010, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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So if that is the case then as long as I have an open design stage then it would act as a bass trap and I don't have concern except for the "echoing" of the chambers which to me in my situation is an easy fix.

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post #187 of 840 Old 01-25-2010, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the new opening framed out today and started on the floor joist bridging.

Going to mount the whisperclips tomorrow along with maybe getting some framing done, Also going to get alot of cleanup done and some other misc items.

Anyone have some great ideas on what to do with the space to the right of the equip rack. I will have about 2 feet wide and 2.5 feet deep.

How about some light ideas. My electrician wants to install 4" can lights but they wont fit in my soffits. I've been looking at LED lights but can't find reasonable ones that are dimmable.

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post #188 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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First wall is up and more to come. Once the walls are framed I can get the carpet guy out to measure for the carpet.

Got my seats ordered and should be here in about a week or so. I ordered some samples of some GOM colors and will decide what works from there. I hope they ship them fast.

FYI....Hauling debris from a basement to the garage SUCKS!!!!

I still feel like I am missing something.

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post #189 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 10:27 AM
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Go man Go!

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post #190 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help/advice on that hat channel. I'm placing my order today.

Ted, on a frameless soffit if I have wood as the first layer should I use some structural plywood? Also the rear soffit will be encased and I want to make sure to add enough clips to support it. If I add a clip to each stud 16oc should that hold the weight of this thing. That would be on the wall and on the ceiling. Then on the side soffits they wont be as heavy but should I add more clips to make sure to hold them up. I plan on them mostly being false soffits with a frame and covered with fabric but the inside will have boards to hold the lighting in it.








T Minus 28 days

Definitely add some pics tonight.

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post #191 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 11:29 AM
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Would the wall have clips? Usually not. So the wall framing itself would be decoupled. This means you can attach a 2x2 or such safely to that wall. No need for clips in the wall if decoupling via framing methods.

Generally a clip placed on each joist 16" spacing will hold the soffit fine.

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post #192 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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The side walls and front will be a wall to attach to but the rear wall is load bearing and I have to put clips and rails on it and then attach the soffit to the rails and this is the soffit that is about 4'. Does that make sense? and will it hold the weight? Also any opinions on using the plywood?

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post #193 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 11:39 AM
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Sorry... missed the plywood question... OSB is fine, plywood is better since it holds a screw better, etc. But more expensive also.

For that clipped wall, consider using plywood or OSB as the first layer, rather than drywall. That will spread out the point load and give you attachment points anywhere. You could (though probably not necessary) increase the density of clips on that wall in the region that would hold the soffit.

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post #194 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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If you look at post 142 you can see my sketch of what I was thinking. The rail that will go against the wall will go right on top of the metal hat channel so I will be able to mount it all along it. I was also concerned about the side soffits since the rails will not go parallel with them and then holding the weight of 2 layers of drywall on top of the soffit construction. Should I mount more clips along those rails sections in the area to reinforce them or should standard mounting work well. The soffit will mount right about 16" where the first joists are. I didnt know if I should try to mount 2 of them on the 2 joists together not touching of course.

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post #195 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 11:49 AM
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You can add additional clips on the Channel that is holding the soffit. I suggested the plywood because it can be easy to miss the channel, and if you have plywood, there's no chance to miss. Additionally, the plywood would spread the load over 2-3 channels, rendering the weight a moot point.

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post #196 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 11:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I think what I will do since I don't want to have plywood first is have some plywood liquid nailed above the drywall but not touching anything so that I can run some screws up into it. Maybe about 5" wide so I can easily hit it when screwing up the soffits.

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post #197 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 12:11 PM
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That would work, but not spread out the load over several channels. This is a value. You could consider just a band of 5/8" plywood that spans three channels as part of the first layer. The balance of that first layer is 5/8" drywall.

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post #198 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Has anyone ever mounted a dead vent in between ceiling joists?

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post #199 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 05:43 PM
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Yes. However more problematic, as physical contact with the joists isn't ideal. Therefore the cross section size recommended is smaller (to fit in without contact), and therefore the overall unit needs to be longer.

Also the transition from room to dead vent needs to be through a massive rigid pipe so as not to let any vibrations out before they reach the vent.

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post #200 of 840 Old 01-26-2010, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Picture update



You can see the new opening from the hallway to the theater and the framed walls. Should be finished framing by tomorrow. I finally found the hat channel to mount in the whisperclips.

Can anyone give me some advice on the rack exhaust and the hush box exhaust. I am having trouble deciding which way to go

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post #201 of 840 Old 01-27-2010, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
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More picture updates

Here is the same view with a few more walls put up.


Here are the walls held up with the DC-04 clips. I can already notice a huge difference between transfer to the upstairs.


Here is an inside view going into the hallway yet to be framed.



Last pic. Here we had to take out the top row of rocks to simplify mounting the drywall to the wall and getting a good seal. Once the drywall is done and the soffit done I will figure out how to make this look pretty.


I found a great product to use as a pillar and it is local. I am also going to use it as a soffit trim that I think will look awesome. I'll post some pics when I get it moving but basically I am going to cut down a sonotube.

I am trying to figure out how to seal all of the needed holes through the drywall. Most likely I am going to build somewhat of a dead box at each puncture and hope that does the job. If anyone can chime in on how they ran their conduit and what they found that worked and didnt as far as product and routing tips.

HVAC ducts should be ran and exchanged tomorrow but the Fantech fans came in and looked like Chewbacca was playing soccer with these things and then kicked them off a cliff. So re-ordered they are and I will have to do the wiring another time.

I have all of the electrical setup and the zones set out for the elecrician. I hope I have thought of everything for him so that I can start drywalling this weekend possibly.

Lastly, that I will post today so as not to bore you I am playing around with some stage and riser designs. Anyone want to chime in on whether the carpet on these should match the designed carpet or a chocolate brown plain carpet that is about half of the price.

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post #202 of 840 Old 01-27-2010, 06:07 PM - Thread Starter
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One more question for all the viewers. Any ideas as to what to do with the area next to the rack. It is 20" wide and the height of the room.

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post #203 of 840 Old 01-27-2010, 07:08 PM
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Nice work! What is your ideas for the front wall since you are going with heights and width speakers? All behind a wall?

Ernie
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post #204 of 840 Old 01-28-2010, 05:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Big worms

I hate to cover up these beautiful speakers but yes they will all be behind the false wall.

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post #205 of 840 Old 01-28-2010, 06:18 AM
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NIce that you keep regular updates with pics. Many people watching

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post #206 of 840 Old 01-28-2010, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Ted,

I hope it can help others but I sure wish some people with the experience or opinions would chime in. It helps to bounce things off all the viewers.

Just got back cleaning out the garage for the 86 sheets of drywall. Man I'm tired.

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post #207 of 840 Old 01-28-2010, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb View Post


Just got back cleaning out the garage for the 86 sheets of drywall. Man I'm tired.

Take a break... OK now get back to work

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post #208 of 840 Old 01-28-2010, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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O, I am back to work. The one that pays for all this stuff. And while I'm at it I have to get some stuff ordered so its here in time and we arent at a stand still.

Walls are finally all framed up and the electrical demo from the old items is in process along with some electrical issues we've had with the rest of the house.

Along with the drywall came the hat channel so as soon as the HVAC ducts are done tomorrow we can start throwing up some drywall as long as the electrician gets done what he is supposed to and that should be no issue.

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post #209 of 840 Old 01-28-2010, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a peek into my partial to do list.

Electrical

New plugs to rack
New plugs to pillars
New lighting in soffit - suggestions
New rope lighting – 120v
Replace fuse box
Wired fire alarm joined to upstairs
Wired door bell in theater
Hallway lights – rope lights
Ventilation for rack and projector
Rear riser electrical – Lights and electrical plugs
Fantech fans
Projector outlet
1 gang in the rear pillar

Lighting zones
Side Soffit lights
Rear soffit lights
In front of screen soffit
Rope lighting
Hallway – rope lighting
Hallway cans
Riser lighting
Future wiring
Star ceiling
Behind screen lights
2 – 4 gang boxes mounted to right of equipment rack

Power ran to
Outlets in pillars
Outlets on front wall
Dead vent fans
Projector


HVAC
Dead vent ducts
Replace living room runs
Replace front door duct
Run duct for projector
Exhaust for rack
Thermostat

Tear down

Remove can lights

New items

Carpet
Floor joints bridged
Insulation
Mark floor at studs
Install clips and rails
Insulate from crawl space
Fix leak sound – Water?
HVAC
Build riser with step lights
Build pillars
Build soffits
Build stage
Seal doors and add mass
Build hush box with ventilation
Ventilate rack area
Run conduit + for speaker cable to risers
Order seats

Equipment

Server
Speaker cable?
Cables to connect amplifier
Receiver
Control4 6 button dimmer
Control4 Dimmers



This theater is stressing me out

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post #210 of 840 Old 01-28-2010, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Alot of the stuff done today is hard to take pics of so here is the stuff you can see. The framing is done so now I can get my carpet installer out to measure for carpet and order it.



For this outside wall I did a stagger stud assembly because it is new I don't have to use clips and rails on it. On top of it being a stagger studded frame I also am using DC04 clips to keep it from rattling upstairs. Seeing this makes me feel so much closer to being done. I may get some drywall up this weekend if I can get all the electrical roughed in.


Last for you here is the foam I am using under all of my walls as a vibration reducer along as a sealer to the floor. It is pretty common at any major hardware store but alot of people skip over something like this. It is very cheap and almost no effort to add it.

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