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post #451 of 589 Old 03-20-2011, 09:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, this thread has been idle for while because of lacking progress, and I haven't posted pictures lately. Now finally, I can post some progress and I am glad that I have past this stage of the build, and finally the dirtiest and messiest jobs are behind me. No more mortar or cement, no more tile cutting, tiling is finally done! Shower, bathroom, bar floor are all done, grouted and sealed. I have also done brick veneer on bar and grouted tuck joints. Overall, both wife and I are very happy with how everything turns out, looks pretty good for first time DIYer and wife starts thinking re-do the upstair powder room already. Here are some pictures:

Shower grouted and sealed:


Bathroom floor done, 45º diagonal layout:


Looking into bathroom, you can see the vanity I just bought, have not installed yet:


Bar area floor, tiled straight, I decided against 45º diagonal pattern, too much cuts and I have to make my own 45º bracket to cut large 13" tile diagonally, very difficult on a small wet tile saw, but it still looks pretty good, little dusty because I was walking on the finished tile floor with dirty shoes.

Also, you can see two pieces mosaic sheets one by mechanical room door and another is by the bar, they are left over from shower floor, the one next to the bar was because the concrete slab under it was not leveled, so no matter what I tried, the 13" tile won't set correctly, one corner down and another corner up, so I used this mosaic sheet there, it is perfect, not only it solved uneven floor problem, but gives some interesting look as well:


This is tiled floor between bar cabinets:


Now brick veneers on bar:


I used two colors random pattern, installed with liquid nail glue over OSB, I cut many 3/4" spacer strips for use in between two rows, let them set over night, then use mortar to grout the tuck joints, very messy job, dropped a lot mortar on floor, of course, I used dropping cloth to cover the tiled floor. The effect of two colored brick veneers look pretty good, the veneers are rustic style so the beauty is the imperfection:


Since the bend there is 135º, I can't use corner veneer, so I just make the tuck joints at the bend line. The veneers at top and bottom rows were installed vertically, and I think this pattern looks better than everything installed horizontally:


Next, paint bathroom wall, not sure what color will be, wife is on it, and install vanity, mirror, lights, and toilet. Speaking of toilet, my rough-in distance is 11". I don't thing common 12" rough-in toilet will fit, neither HD and Lowes carry 10" rough-in toilets in store, but I HD allows me to order online and ship to store for free.

That's all for now.
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post #452 of 589 Old 03-21-2011, 04:49 AM
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Looking really good, I can see why your wife would want to remodel upstairs. I can hear that whip cracking anytime now...

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post #453 of 589 Old 03-21-2011, 07:13 AM
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Well done my friend - you're making great progress!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #454 of 589 Old 03-23-2011, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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I went to Lowes and HD looking for 10" rough-in toilet past few days. Found two on HD online, one is Glacier Bay WaterSense in store and the other is America Standard Cadet 3 online only, Glacier Bay toilet is cheap, $78 complete kit, 1.28 GPF, 10"~12" adjustablerough-in, but it is round front. I elongated front toilet better because it is little larger and all the other 3 toilets in my house are elongated ones. Cadet 3 is elongated one, online price is $168, not that bad, but it does not come with seat which is another $40, plus $60 shipping, that $268 for one toilet while same 12" rough-in model in store is only sold at $138. So I went to Lowes to see if they carry the same one, but they don't, special order at Lowes is almost $276, I went back to HD too see if they can special order for me at HD online price and ship to store to avoid $60 shipping charge. Well, HD special order pricing is much more than online pricing, same as Lowes, plus $40 seat, so total is $316 plus tax. What f#@k!, I can buy 4 Glacier Bay toilets and replace my other 3 toilets altogether with that money.

I could, order online for $168 and buy something else to make online purchase over $250 to qualify for free shipping to home, but I just bought a $278 vanity in store couple of days ago. So in the end, I just grabbed the Glacier Bay toilet and headed out, for like $240 savings, I am willing to have a bit smaller toilet.
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post #455 of 589 Old 03-23-2011, 07:51 AM
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theW - your 10" rough-in isn't all that common, which is why the prices are higher. Many more options & lower prices for a standard 12" rough-in. I hear you about the elongated front toilets. They work well for people like me with an elongated rear...

Your tiling & faux brick installation skills are very good - looks great! The brick finish on the bar is unique.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Schmidt Haus Theater (Temporarily on hold - obamanomics :-)

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post #456 of 589 Old 03-23-2011, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidtwi View Post

theW - your 10" rough-in isn't all that common, which is why the prices are higher. Many more options & lower prices for a standard 12" rough-in. I hear you about the elongated front toilets. They work well for people like me with an elongated rear...

Your tiling & faux brick installation skills are very good - looks great! The brick finish on the bar is unique.

Thanks Schmit. It is about 3" shorter, but I hear you say you have an elongated rear, I think you meant elongated front, 3" make huge differences it you know what I mean
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post #457 of 589 Old 03-25-2011, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Not related to home theater build, but it is something needs to be done first.

Look what arrived this morning:


No, it is not a bomb, it is a replacement garbage disposal:


It is Waste King Legend 8000 1HP continuous feed high speed (2800 rpm) one, requiring 7amp juice to operate, ranking on the 2nd spot among 10 best garbage disposals by reviews. I ordered it from Amazon on Thursday with regular free shipper and got here today, very fast delivery. Look how big it is comparing with the old broken GE 1/3 HP one side by side:


I took out the old one which went dead couple of weeks ago and thought it is at most an half hour job, but I broke the tee connecting to main sink drain, garbage disposal and U trap, and it is too late to run HD to buy a new tee, so tonight, wife can't use the kitchen sink and I have to run to HD to get the tee tomorrow morning to get this hooked.
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post #458 of 589 Old 03-25-2011, 09:23 PM
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I think its best not to know what you're planning on stuffing down that disposal.
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post #459 of 589 Old 03-26-2011, 01:27 AM
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More Power! Arrh! Arrh! Arrh!
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post #460 of 589 Old 03-26-2011, 04:28 AM
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Wow...that's the "Ferguson" of sink disposals. Looks like it may sound like a GE turbofan engine winding up.
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post #461 of 589 Old 03-26-2011, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Wow...that's the "Ferguson" of sink disposals. Looks like it may sound like a GE turbofan engine winding up.

Think you mean the "Fargo" model, dontcha?





You betcha!

The Un-Theater Un-Build
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State Certified Alcohol Disposal Expert.

 

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post #462 of 589 Old 03-26-2011, 10:20 AM
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Wowww that thing is a monster!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #463 of 589 Old 03-26-2011, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I didn't know it is going to be this big when I ordered it. I was searching on eBay for 1/2 or 3/4 HP ones, a lot of InSinkErator brand, read reviews and they are not very good for their 1/2 and 3/4 HP models, their 1HP models is #1 among the 10 best, but it is almost twice the money as the Waste King one ranking #2 in the 10 best list, and it comes with lifetime in-home service warranty.

Anyway, got it installed this morning after a quick run to HD to get the fitting, and I have to take out the power cord and directly connect to 14awg wire, 15 minutes job done and wife is happy now.

Here is the picture after it is installed, really easy, it comes with easy mount system so no buts and bolts needed:


Now this weekend's job is to get tax done, have to look through all the receipts to see what I can file for federal tax credit, I create a separate thread for this. If I have time this weekend, may paint the bathroom and get toilet, vanity/mirror and lights, GFCI outlet and switches installed.
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post #464 of 589 Old 03-27-2011, 03:30 AM
 
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Well I spent my breaks reading your thread on my 12 hr night shift. Wow your doing great!! I have a small question about the shower. Did you put a slight slop on the receded soap shelf so the water doesn't pool and get nasty? I also think you should consider the smooth sided toilets for easy cleaning. I'm not sure if there is a name for them, but just a thought. I wish my house had a basement or a large enough room for a theater. You would figure a five bedroom house would have a room I could use. I look forward to reading your progress.
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post #465 of 589 Old 04-05-2011, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanbenn View Post

Well I spent my breaks reading your thread on my 12 hr night shift. Wow your doing great!! I have a small question about the shower. Did you put a slight slop on the receded soap shelf so the water doesn't pool and get nasty? I also think you should consider the smooth sided toilets for easy cleaning. I'm not sure if there is a name for them, but just a thought. I wish my house had a basement or a large enough room for a theater. You would figure a five bedroom house would have a room I could use. I look forward to reading your progress.

Thanks Sean for spending time reading through my thread. Yes, I do make sure everywhere in the shower has slight slope.
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post #466 of 589 Old 04-05-2011, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Painting is PITA! It is another job that I am not quite happy with the result, not the color choices, but the actual paintings. I don't know how anyone handles the job by your own, thought it is easy, how difficult it could be, right? Wrong.

My problems are painting the inside corners when two surfaces have different color using those 3M blue masking tapes. Here are the problems, first, getting blue tape right into the corner line is not as easy as it looks like, you may find small gaps between the corner line and tape being that corner line (again as everything else), is not perfectly straight; second, I just couldn't get a perfect crisp and clean line at inside corner after removing the tape, and third, removing the tape causes more problem, it peels off paint from either newly painted surface or the surface it sticks on, that requires a lot of touch-up painting again at the corners.

Removing the tape immediately after painting or within 10 minutes would be fine, but, if I try to peel off tapes after paint dries out, it would either tears the corner or peel off the painted surface it sticks on, so it is a problem for doing second coating without removing the tape and re-taping after first coating. I don't know what is the correct way of doing the inside corner painting, also tried some corner roller, did not work well neither, so what I have to do is to use a utility knife to cut at corner line, but still this only solves one problem, tape still peels off the other surface here and there. Frustrated
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post #467 of 589 Old 04-05-2011, 12:19 PM
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Ever try a paint edger system? No tape to worry about...

http://www.painthelpers.com/

edit: Bad example..... never checked the price, but the edge painter I have, was about $12.
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post #468 of 589 Old 04-05-2011, 01:24 PM
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That is one heck of a disposal my friend! Hope you don't have to go fishing down there for a lost spoon or something.

Chris

New House, New Wife, Hello Basement!!!
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post #469 of 589 Old 04-05-2011, 03:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Ever try a paint edger system? No tape to worry about...

http://www.painthelpers.com/

edit: Bad example..... never checked the price, but the edge painter I have, was about $12.

The edge painter I got from HD leaves about 1/4" gap unpainted, oh well, I just peeled off all the tapes, looks pretty bad, I guess I just have to touch paint the corners.
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post #470 of 589 Old 04-05-2011, 03:32 PM - Thread Starter
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That is one heck of a disposal my friend! Hope you don't have to go fishing down there for a lost spoon or something.

It is a little monster, very powerful indeed and much quieter than the GE one it replaced.
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post #471 of 589 Old 04-05-2011, 07:53 PM
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I think it appropriate to hereby dub it as "The Disposinator" Yah?
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post #472 of 589 Old 04-05-2011, 09:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I think it appropriate to hereby dub it as "The Disposinator" Yah?

LOL, a good one fotto, but that nick name sounds like a serial killer so I am going to stick with my current one but I offer to give "theDisposinator" name to anyone who wants to take it!
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post #473 of 589 Old 04-10-2011, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone knows what is the minimum installation height of a sub-panel? I am considering to install a sub-panel, although I have enough empty slots in the main panel, but the a sub-panel will make the wiring cleaner, the problem is, I have no space to install a sub-panel at comfortable height, except below the main panel which is quite low, see pic.

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post #474 of 589 Old 04-10-2011, 09:23 AM
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No minimum height; max height to the top of the circuit breaker is 6'-7"

EDIT: can't really tell for sure, but make sure those two studs on the left side of the opening are not protruding into the panelboard working space. That is, the studs cannot be further away from the left foundation wall than the left edge of the panelboard. Also remember to account for any jambs, trim, etc. When you open up your door or fabric panel (or similar) you should have a straight shot at the panel.

See this working space diagram.
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post #475 of 589 Old 04-10-2011, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

No minimum height; max height to the top of the circuit breaker is 6'-7"

EDIT: can't really tell for sure, but make sure those two studs on the left side of the opening are not protruding into the panelboard working space. That is, the studs cannot be further away from the left foundation wall than the left edge of the panelboard. Also remember to account for any jambs, trim, etc. When you open up your door or fabric panel (or similar) you should have a straight shot at the panel.

See this working space diagram.

Thanks Tim, just went down take a look, it appear that after door jamb, the edge of the main panel is just right lined up with the jamb.

I just went to HD and got this working space diagram.[/quote]

Thanks Tim, just went down and took a look, it appears that after door jamb, the edge of the main panel is just right lined up with the jamb.

I went to HD and got this 100amp sub-panel, it comes with one 2P 100amp main breaker, 1 2P 30amp breaker and 5 1P 20amp breakers, I also got 4' SEU cable and 3' grounding copper wire to bridge two grounding bars on left and right side in the panel.

Am I right that in order to connect sub-panel to the main, I need two 1 2P 100amp breaker to feed the sub-panel, right? I have to get another 2P 100amp Cutler-Hammer CH type breaker to feed sub-panel from somewhere else, HD does not carry them.

I am still debating doing a sub-panel or not, but just get the supplies first, I can return them if I decide not to do it.

Edited, just checked Lowes online, they carry 2P 100amp Cutler-Hammer CH breaker, but is at $50 a piece, same price as the sub-panel, ouch!
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post #476 of 589 Old 04-10-2011, 02:14 PM
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Walkinator, what is your estimate for total amps needed by the subpanel? If it's only 40-60A, then you can just by a 2P 40A or 60A rated breaker from the existing main panel. There's no rule saying you HAVE to supply 100A to a 100A subpanel if you don't need it.

You can just leave the 100A main breaker that came with the subpanel installed there and use it as a separate disconnect to the panel, with your 40A or 60A at the main panel as another breaker for the sub.

That's what I did and it was fine with the inspector.
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post #477 of 589 Old 04-10-2011, 05:21 PM
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I am a little rusty at this, so if we have any sparkys around, maybe they can chime in..

Having said that.. The link you proved is for a main panelboard, not a subpanel (not really a problem). Also, SEU cable is for underground use and is not permitted inside (afaik).

If you are going to mount one on top of the other, I would get a 2" nipple.. maybe 4" long and some 2" locknuts.

If you are going to do 100A get 12' of #3 Cu THHN (cut into 3/4' lengths) and 4' of #8 Cu (green or bare).

The 2-pole disconnect belongs in your main panel. You do not need a main disconnect in the subpanel.

Typically a subpanel has main lugs where you can connect your feeders directly to the busbar.

You can use the 2-pole 100A breaker to connect to the sub, but the breaker must be secured to the panelboard so that it can't inadvertently be removed (I would assume that such a device is already present, but check anyway.. it's probably a clip held in by a screw)

The CH breaker is more money because it is a higher quality CB. The link you provided is for a Murray/Homeline type panel. Nothing wrong with it, but that is the reason for the price difference.

Before attemptin any electrical, be sure t read my disclaimer
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post #478 of 589 Old 04-10-2011, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I am a little rusty at this, so if we have any sparkys around, maybe they can chime in..

Having said that.. The link you proved is for a main panelboard, not a subpanel (not really a problem). Also, SEU cable is for underground use and is not permitted inside (afaik).

If you are going to mount one on top of the other, I would get a 2" nipple.. maybe 4" long and some 2" locknuts.

If you are going to do 100A get 12' of #3 Cu THHN (cut into 3/4' lengths) and 4' of #8 Cu (green or bare).

The 2-pole disconnect belongs in your main panel. You do not need a main disconnect in the subpanel.

Typically a subpanel has main lugs where you can connect your feeders directly to the busbar.

You can use the 2-pole 100A breaker to connect to the sub, but the breaker must be secured to the panelboard so that it can't inadvertently be removed (I would assume that such a device is already present, but check anyway.. it's probably a clip held in by a screw)

The CH breaker is more money because it is a higher quality CB. The link you provided is for a Murray/Homeline type panel. Nothing wrong with it, but that is the reason for the price difference.

Before attemptin any electrical, be sure t read my disclaimer

Thanks a lot Tim.

I might be mistaken by saying SEU cable, it is Service Entrance Cable, 2 insulated hot wires, 1 insulated neutral and 1 bare ground, not copper, aluminum.

Then panel itself can be a main or sub-panel, just need to remove one panel holding rod to separate ground bus bar and neutral bus bar when used as sub-panel.

This is the sub-panel opened, the 2P 100A breaker on left and the rod on right is disconnected from the neutral bus bar:


This is the main panel, off ground 45" to the bottom, there are enough space, I feel there are too many wires if I to wire directly on the main:


This is where sub-panel will be mounted in related to the main, kind of low, 15" above the ground. Do you think inspector would have problem with that? The space on right side of the main is occupied by two Verizon box, one for cable and one for internet, so this is the only space that I can mount the sub-panel:
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post #479 of 589 Old 04-10-2011, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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post #480 of 589 Old 04-11-2011, 04:12 AM
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afaik SE cable has two insulated conductors surrounded by braided copper which you use for the neutral on a service drop.

100A would be a #1 Al.

Yes, you can put up to two NM cables in a connector.

EDIT: I think the location is compliant. However, you cannot have the coax cables (or anything foreign to the electrical installation) directly above the panelboard.
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