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post #181 of 589 Old 06-22-2010, 07:30 PM
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Walkinator, here's at least 4 examples of how others have their zones hooked up: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...304&highlight=
I believe most have their step lights dimmable (including myself).
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post #182 of 589 Old 06-22-2010, 09:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks fotto, shoot, I forgot rope light, with that, that will be 7 zones, so what can I combine with to make 6 zones? Maybe step lights should be out of the zones controlled by GE or combine rope light and step lights to zone 6, I should be able to dim line voltage rope light? Still not sure star ceiling can be dimmed.
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post #183 of 589 Old 06-22-2010, 10:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Fotto, you got a 4th generation Maxima if I remember it right. My 96 starts showing its age, just few days ago, the fan speed 1,2,3 stopped working, but 4 is ok, turned out, the A/C blower resistor which control fan speed 1,2,3 failed, a $40 replacement resistor solved problem, but A/C is not cold, so I went on added a can of 134a, but that made it worse, the compressor clutch just won't engage, so blowing ambient air. Today here is 88 degree, tomorrow will be 95 degree, totally no good without A/C and stuck in the traffic. What I found is that I might over charged refrigerant, so this evening, I managed to reduce the amount of refrigerant, bring the low pressure side pressure from 90 psi down to 35 psi, now the compressor clutch engages and A/C starts blowing cold air, didn't measure the temperature at vent, but just feel much better, hopefully, it will get me through tomorrow.

One thing you need be careful next time you bring your car for service, just make sure in the shop when they put your car on lift, don't let them put the lift leg (not sure the correct term) directly under the parking cable, that will ruin your parking cable, mine was damaged by the garage, causing the parking cable seized up, resulting the rear caliber seized up, over the time, the caliber failed and I had to replace both caliber on rear wheels, very costly repair and I don't have proof to show the garage that it is their fault, so I have to ate the repair cost.
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post #184 of 589 Old 06-23-2010, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

Thanks fotto, shoot, I forgot rope light, with that, that will be 7 zones, so what can I combine with to make 6 zones? Maybe step lights should be out of the zones controlled by GE or combine rope light and step lights to zone 6, I should be able to dim line voltage rope light? Still not sure star ceiling can be dimmed.

Seems like you should be able to combine something between the 1-4 zones but not sure what to suggest. You can definitely dim the line voltage rope but not sure about the start ceiling as I never looked into that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

Fotto, you got a 4th generation Maxima if I remember it right. My 96 starts showing its age, just few days ago, the fan speed 1,2,3 stopped working, but 4 is ok, turned out, the A/C blower resistor which control fan speed 1,2,3 failed, a $40 replacement resistor solved problem, but A/C is not cold, so I went on added a can of 134a, but that made it worse, the compressor clutch just won't engage, so blowing ambient air. Today here is 88 degree, tomorrow will be 95 degree, totally no good without A/C and stuck in the traffic. What I found is that I might over charged refrigerant, so this evening, I managed to reduce the amount of refrigerant, bring the low pressure side pressure from 90 psi down to 35 psi, now the compressor clutch engages and A/C starts blowing cold air, didn't measure the temperature at vent, but just feel much better, hopefully, it will get me through tomorrow.

One thing you need be careful next time you bring your car for service, just make sure in the shop when they put your car on lift, don't let them put the lift leg (not sure the correct term) directly under the parking cable, that will ruin your parking cable, mine was damaged by the garage, causing the parking cable seized up, resulting the rear caliber seized up, over the time, the caliber failed and I had to replace both caliber on rear wheels, very costly repair and I don't have proof to show the garage that it is their fault, so I have to ate the repair cost.

Yeah, I have a 2004 currently and looking at getting a new one maybe this fall when some clearance deals hit. Good you could get things figured out on your own and save some bucks. I feel very limited with what I do with car maintenance these days...not like when I could fix almost anything back when I had my 1970 Nova SS (first car), and of course had more time to devote to it. I did just fix my malfunctioning dash vent the other weekend though
Trying to manipulate about 15 louvers into their proper position after they went flying when I disassembled was quite interesting.
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post #185 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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I just got this set of in-wall 5.1 speaker for cheap:

  1. LR: 8" Woofers, Pivoting Titanium Tweeters, 175 Watts RMS to 350 Watts, 27Hz - 22 KHz + 3 dB
  2. Center: Two 6-1/2" Woofers, Soft Dome Tweeter, 175 Watts RMS to 350 Watts , 33Hz - 22 KHz + 3 dB
  3. Rear in ceiling: 8 " Woofers, Titanium Tweeters, 175 Watts RMS to 350 Watts, 28Hz - 22 KHz + 3 dB
  4. Subwoofer: 10", 150 Watts RMS to 300 Watts, 26Hz - 200Hz + 3 dB


Packaging:


Opened:


Back:


Center Grill off:


No, this 5.1 system is not for the theater room, it is for the TV room just outside the theater room, will be installed outside the rack closet wall. The center is wider than 16" studs space, so I have to alter this wall to mount the center.


The sub does not come with built-in amp, so I need a decent amp to power it. Do you have any recommendation? Other option is to buy another sub, then buy a two channel amp to power two subs.
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post #186 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I promised to update electrical rough wiring, here are some pictures:

Pulling wires along the south wall, I did not drill holes on this wall, used same method to secure wires with the plastic clips:


After pulling few wires, I didn't like the work, the wires keep twisting, so I made this reel rack to minimize the twisting and it make the job a lot easier, not only wire won't twist, pulling wires also become very easy:


Bar area wiring:
Front, I wire a outlet on the front bar wall to meet the code, it is on the same south wall receptacle circuit:


Bar back wall wiring, there are two separate circuits for the lower outlets, one for wine cooler and one for a refrigerator thought I don't know at this point I will pull one refrigerator there or not, just wire a dedicated circuit in case, upper boxes will be GFCI protected counter top outlets and on the left 2-gang box, a switch for back wall ceiling fixture:


Back side of front bar, I wired 3 outlets, GFCI protected, on same circuit as the back counter top outlets, and a switch for over head fixture:


Outside view of bathroom wiring:


Recessed light rough in, I temporarily put the recessed light can between the joists just to give me an idea where the wires should go, as you can see, the wires are hanging down from the joist, I did not connect them to the cans:




North wall (outside theater room) wiring:


Wire has to cross the stair so I run it under the stair as you can see in this picture:


All wires start at service panel, I make sure I leave plenty long wires here:


I should have more pictures, I still need to wire lighting fixtures for the theater room, and this is this weekend's work.
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post #187 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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I had experienced my first basement build injury. I bumped my head to a ceiling nail in the joist cavity while trying to reach wire over the duct, the mail stuck my head and blood rushed down like a small river and all over my face, my wife got scared and wanted to call ambulance, but I just got a cotton ball and pushed on the wound, 20 minutes later, it stopped bleeding and I cleaned my face and back to work again:

This is the bad nail:


Blood on floor and on stair:



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post #188 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I did not find a 4 gang metal box in local store, but at local HD, I found 3.5" deep Raco metal single gang boxes that I can gang them up, so I bought 6 of them to make a 6 gang box, there should be plenty of space, the only thing is, it is only 3" tall, GE just fit in without much room on top or bottom, but I think this could work out:

Gang up 6 single gang boxes:


GE fits in:


If need more space, I can gang up more but I think 6 are good, has anyone tried this route?
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post #189 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided to flip the theater orientation, making the back wall screen wall and screen wall back wall, thus the wiring is shorter especially for running projector conduits, instead of 30' conduit and many turns, this way the conduits will just be 10' long with 2 turns, basically, straight from rack closet to the projector location and two turns being one up to the joist cavity from the rack closet and one down from joist cavity in theater.

In my previous plan, I forgot to include the rope light into one of the zone, here is the updated plan, rope light will combine with wall scones:

Zone 1: Recessed lights along south and north soffit
Zone 2: Wall scones and rope light
Zone 3: Recessed stage down lights and back soffit down lights
Zone 4: Stage screen back lights
Zone 5: Star ceiling
Zone 6: Step lights
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post #190 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided to flip the theater orientation, making the back wall screen wall and screen wall back wall, thus the wiring is shorter especially for running projector conduits, instead of 30' conduit and many turns, this way the conduits will just be 10' long with 2 turns, basically, straight from rack closet to the projector location and two turns being one up to the joist cavity from the rack closet and one down from joist cavity in theater.

This is the original design, turn it 180 degree in the new design:


Rack closet is option 3 in this picture, as you can see, the right side will be the new back wall, the conduit run is much shorter:


In my previous plan, I forgot to include the rope light into one of the zone, here is the updated plan, rope light will combine with wall scones:

Zone 1: Recessed lights along south and north soffit
Zone 2: Wall scones and rope light
Zone 3: Recessed stage down lights and back soffit down lights
Zone 4: Stage screen back lights
Zone 5: Star ceiling
Zone 6: Step lights
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post #191 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 06:44 PM
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what are you going to do with the open spaces at the sides of the GE?

order it online, do it right. Hanks electric is great, plus they sell the control wire by the foot.

http://www.hankselectric.net/detail.aspx?ID=403
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post #192 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smakovits View Post

what are you going to do with the open spaces at the sides of the GE?

order it online, do it right. Hanks electric is great, plus they sell the control wire by the foot.

http://www.hankselectric.net/detail.aspx?ID=403

Would that be wrong if I just cover it with drywall, or metal plate to cover on each side? I mean it is code violation?

Thanks for the link, I do need control wire.
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post #193 of 589 Old 06-26-2010, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

I had experienced my first basement build injury. I bumped my head to a ceiling nail in the joist cavity while trying to reach wire over the duct, the mail stuck my head and blood rushed down like a small river and all over my face, my wife got scared and wanted to call ambulance, but I just got a cotton ball and pushed on the wound, 20 minutes later, it stopped bleeding and I cleaned my face and back to work again:

No home remodel project can be completed with out a little blood. Most of mine has been little bleeders but, no major one. I don't think have ever had one of the bigger projects with out a little cut at least.

Be glad it was not a big one and let's hope it's the last one.

Looking good so far...(I have been subbed)

-Dave

MCSE 2003
Windows Media Center specialist

My Windows Media Center Blog...
http://mc.anywherecool.com/Blog/
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post #194 of 589 Old 06-27-2010, 04:04 AM
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post #195 of 589 Old 06-27-2010, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

You need a six gang mudring by Raco.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_122338-427-823_4294896172_4294937087?productId=3136261

Cool, this is better, I was searching on HD and Lowes websites yesterday and didn't find this one. Thanks.
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post #196 of 589 Old 06-27-2010, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, in theater room, the zone 1 will be 6 4" recessed lights on the two long sided of room, next to the soffits (soffits are main supply and return trunk, no space there), but I will not install them in the joist cavity, instead, I plan to install them in a tray and the tray will be attached to ceiling after the ceiling is drywalled, so my question is, for rough in electrical, can I just leave enough wire hanging there without have to run the wire or terminate the wire in a box? Is that a code violation for wiring rough-in inspection? Same situation goes for step lights.
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post #197 of 589 Old 07-01-2010, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, I feel the lighting zones are still not quite right, majorly because what to combine the rope light with, after giving some more thought, I think I will divide 6 zones into 3 lighting groups:

Group 1, main lighting:
Zone 1: Recessed lights along south, north and back soffit
Zone 2: Wall scones

Group 2, visual enhancement that should "pop" or make a statement:
Zone 3: Recessed stage down lights
Zone 4: Stage screen back lights and rope light

Group 3, produce minimum ambient lights:
Zone 5: Star ceiling
Zone 6: Step lights

So, the dimming sequences will follow the zone sequences, when in, all zones are on, then starts from zone 1 to zone 4, lights will be dimmed and turned off, zone 5 and zone 6 can be stay on during movie time, but they can also be dimmed or turned off (still not sure if star ceiling can be dimmed or need to be dimmed).

What do you think?
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post #198 of 589 Old 07-03-2010, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Electrical rough-in is finally done, nothing is easy, need to figure out where to run wires to use shortest wires and how to better organize all the runs, etc., here are some pictures:

I previously gang up 6 boxes and here is it is attached between two studs:


GE fit:


Later, as suggested by smakovits and Tedd, I was able to find both from a local electrical supply store, and I got both:

4 Gang mud ring:


I thought if the mud ring fits the 6 box, then I will be using it, but it turned out that there is no way to attach the mud ring to the 6 gang box, so I ditched that idea and just swapped to the 4 gang box:


I user two wood screws to attached the box to one stud, very sturdy. Is it fine with two wires go through one hole into the box?


Wires for 6 zones coming out of the GE box, note the square metal box on top, it is a junction box, since I combine screen back light and rope light (plug in the back near the projector) in one zone, I need to splice one wire coming out of GE:


Wires, nothing but wires:




Note the extra wire there is for star ceiling, not sure where to run it, but I make sure that I leave ample wire for it:


This dangling wire is for side and back recessed lights on tray (or lip, whatever you call it):


The two receptacles, right is the wall receptacle, the left one, will be dimming receptacle for screen back lights:


The dangling wire in the middle is for screen down light:


Wall scones, all scones are in zone 1:
South side wall scones, there are 3 of them:


Back wall scone, only one of them:


North wall scone, two of them, showing here is the front one:


Projector and rope light receptacles, rope light receptacle should be dimming one:


Step lights, in zone 6 by its own, extra wire will go in riser, not sure how to transit it from wall to riser for code compliance:


Back of the AV rack closet, you can see GE box:


Understair circuit for one outlet and one light, branched from north wall receptacles of non-theater space:


Understair space is like a small cave, I will put a small table and chair here for remote or a monitor or something:


This is a 3-way switches rough-in using the existing circuit, for controlling the theater entrance over head light, the right box is one 3-way switch outside the theater, the left box, facing inside, is the other 3 way switch:


This is the entrance overhead light:


AV closet light + egress alleyway light:


Switch for mechanical room:


Wire going into mechanical room, I use existing circuit, 14awg wire:


Two mechanical room lights:




This is the wall when you come down the stair, I rough in two wall scone, Daisey chained with the stair landing light, and also I will be using 4-way switches, one on left and one on right, and on at the top of the stair in the first floor, again, using existing circuit, 14awg wire and 3 conductor with ground:


Overall, I bought 1500' 12-2 wire, 250' 14-2 wire, 25' 14-3 wire, still some 12-2 and 14-2 wire left, just enough to finish the rest run in stage and riser. I didn't count how many electrical boxes I used, but I bought 30 one gang boxes, some two gangs and round boxes, later, I bought some more, so except some round boxes left, I pretty much used all boxes, and I still need few junction boxes, mainly to extend existing circuit wire to new fixtures.
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post #199 of 589 Old 07-04-2010, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Two boxes of cables and accessories from Monoprice arrived on Friday:

350' CL2 12awg speaker wires:


Cables and accessories:




I also bought 2.5' rigid PVC conduits for projector, and a roll of 1/2" 250' long Carlton blue flexible conduit. One question, is it necessary to run speaker wires in flexible conduit?
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post #200 of 589 Old 07-04-2010, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I went to Homedepot to buy connectors to connect 1/2" flexible conduit to the low voltage boxes, but couldn't find any, all they have are for 3/4" tube, the boxes are also for 3/4", and they don't have 3/4" flexible tubes for 200', only find one roll 3/4" of 100'. So I will try Lowes.
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post #201 of 589 Old 07-04-2010, 04:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I went to Lowes and got 2 rolls of 100' 3/4" blue Carlon coil conduit, for speaker wires and other low voltage wires, still need to figure out how to run it, it probably need to dill 1" holes on studs, so if I can, I would like to run it on outside the wall (between foundation and studs wall, or outside wall in unfinished space).


I run two 2" rigid gray conduits to projector location, one will leave empty for future upgrade. Since I flipped theater room 180 degree, now I only need to run very short conduits, the wires and cables are 15' long.

Got a cheap $6 Harbor Freight 50' fish tape, works pretty well:


You can see one conduit is empty for future upgrade:


Two conduits end in AV closet:


Done:


I run 2 HDMI cables, 1 RCA3 component cable, 2 Cat6 shield wires, 1 Cat6 unshielded wire, so what else do I need to run to projector?
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post #202 of 589 Old 07-05-2010, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, the speaker wires run out fast, I ordered one 250' roll and one 100' roll, figured 350' should be enough, what do I know, I ran out 250' roll and I am not even done the front wall yet, so I need to order another 250'.

I have decided not to run conduits for speaker wires, so I will return the blue coil tube I bought from Lowes, and all the connectors as well. I might also need to order longer RG6 sub cables.
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post #203 of 589 Old 07-06-2010, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

I run 2 HDMI cables, 1 RCA3 component cable, 2 Cat6 shield wires, 1 Cat6 unshielded wire, so what else do I need to run to projector?

I just ran 1 HDMI, 1 component set, 1 CAT6, but have a run of empty 2.5" conduit available for extra's if need be. I can't believe you need anything more presently, especially since you have a spare conduit available.

Nice progress with the wiring. I suggest you sand down your finger tips over the next few days to roughen/toughen them up....you'll need it when finishing off all that 12-2 Romex
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post #204 of 589 Old 07-06-2010, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Nice progress with the wiring. I suggest you sand down your finger tips over the next few days to roughen/toughen them up....you'll need it when finishing off all that 12-2 Romex

Thanks fotto, I did my paver patio before, and with a lot of cuts, I can't really wear the gloves, so my finger prints were all gone during that period of time, so I can imagine what is going to look like when I start dealing with striping and twisting Romex
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post #205 of 589 Old 07-06-2010, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

Wow, the speaker wires run out fast, I ordered one 250' roll and one 100' roll, figured 350' should be enough, what do I know, I ran out 250' roll and I am not even done the front wall yet, so I need to order another 250'.

I have decided not to run conduits for speaker wires, so I will return the blue coil tube I bought from Lowes, and all the connectors as well. I might also need to order longer RG6 sub cables.

I said the same thing, I ordered a 500' box and nearly ran out.
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post #206 of 589 Old 07-09-2010, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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The inspector came and walked through, didn't raise any issue, just mentioned that before township comes to inspect, I should strip the wire and wire nut the ground and connect all the recessed lights then I would be fine. 10 minutes later, he walked out of the door.
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post #207 of 589 Old 07-09-2010, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

I have decided not to run conduits for speaker wires, so I will return the blue coil tube I bought from Lowes, and all the connectors as well. I might also need to order longer RG6 sub cables.

If you haven't already returned the smurf tube I'd suggest keeping it in, you never know what you might want in the future. Among other things there might come a time when you want a digital signal to powered speakers, or even IP addressable speakers...
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post #208 of 589 Old 07-20-2010, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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ADT services is horrible. First, the system is not working properly, it sets itself off quite often and I was told I need to charge the battery, but the AC adapter is plugged in all the time. So after I started framing, I unplugged the AC adapter. Now I am pretty much done the wiring, so I thought, before I put insulation and drywall, it is better to have ADT to come to check the system, possibly for an upgrade since all wires are still accessible at this time.
So I scheduled a service appointment and was told the technician is to come between 12:00PM and 5:00PM. I took a day off from my busy work schedule and waited until 4:30PM and then ADT called to let me know that the technician can't make it today. I was upset, first, I took a day off to wait the technician for whole day only being told that he can't make, and they wanted me to re-schedule another time, well I told the rep that my time worth a lot more than the service charge and if the technician can't make it, that is their problem, they should know that and dispatch another technician, re-scheduling is out of option since I can't take another day off. They told me they can let the technician to come after 6:00PM, but everyone knows how busy is during the evening in every household, and they insisted they can only do after 6:00PM. So I told them, if the technician is to come after 6:00PM, then they have to waive the service charge but they won't. Talked to the manager, there is nothing they can do but just "I am sorry" won't do anything good to me, so I at the end, I canceled the service thinking that I can call Brinks to install a new system for only $99, so I called Brinks to see if they can re-use ADT wires. Surprise surprise, Brinks is going to merge with ADT and they have a none-competitive agreement with ADT, so Brinks can't offer me the services.

What the hell, I really don't need to use the system since I got my big dog who is 9 years old, so really doesn't matter. It only helps to reduce home owner insurance, but it is probably a wash consider I am paying ADT $35 every month for the service that I really don't need.

In the past, I have scheduled many services from cable company to phone to electrical work, none of those companies had ever done something like this. ADT is just a horrible company to deal with and I will never use their services ever again.
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post #209 of 589 Old 07-20-2010, 04:59 PM
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Bad service/no shows is a special pet peeve of mine, probably like most others. Companies need to respect peoples time and canceling the service is probably the best retribution you could do. You should try to find someone further up the chain to let them know what happened and that you canceled. If they offer anything as a result, still tell them to go screw themselves.
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post #210 of 589 Old 07-30-2010, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally I got theater room low voltage wiring done and also got fireblocking done with one bag 2x4' 2" mineral wool that I bought earlier. I also terminated all the electrical boxes, finished few last pieces of framing that I left because wires need to go in first, and wrapped return trunk in unfinished mechanical room. This evening after work, I cleaned the floor and get things organized a little. Now I am finally ready for inspection and will give the township a call next week. For the past 7 months, I have been working down in the basement almost every weekend, so this weekend, I will give myself a little break.

I will take and post some pictures tomorrow.
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