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post #1 of 15 Old 01-24-2010, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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I have spent a considerable amount of time searching and reading through the forums for the past day or so and would like some confirmation from those of you smarter than I that I am on the right track for my second floor theater. Below are my plans:

Ceiling - Single drywall with RSIC and hat channel covered with R30. Thinking the R30 and isolation will be enough here. Do I really need another layer of drywall and green glue?

Walls - Double drywall , green glue and staggered studs mounted with RSIC clips. By my estimation this is preferable to RSIC and hat channel on the structural studs. True?

Floor - This is where I need some help. I have seen where Dennis suggests just laying Acoustik Mat and subfloor over the original subfloor. My questions is : does Acoustik Mat provide the decoupling I need? I thought I would need something like Kinetic RIM or Uboats to get true decoupling.
So which would be better for the floors?
Orig Subfloor - uboat - joist with insulation - new subfloor
Orig subfloor - Acoutik Mat - New
Orig subfloor - Kinetic RIM - New subfloor

Feedback on this would be much appreciated.
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post #2 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 06:27 AM
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On my 2nd floor theater subfloor I used a 2nd layer of 3/4" OSB with GG between. It does not stop all the sound but it's quiet a bit better. To get a truly decoupled floor I think you would really need to start at the floor joists and work your way up from there rather than building on top of the existing floor.
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post #3 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 06:29 AM
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Ted will be with you shortly If not PM to get his attention.
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post #4 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tilimil View Post

I have spent a considerable amount of time searching and reading through the forums for the past day or so and would like some confirmation from those of you smarter than I that I am on the right track for my second floor theater. Below are my plans:

Ceiling - Single drywall with RSIC and hat channel covered with R30. Thinking the R30 and isolation will be enough here. Do I really need another layer of drywall and green glue? I would suggest R19. Extra really doen't pay off a lot. MUCH better to invest the difference in an additional layer of drywall. MUCH

Walls - Double drywall , green glue and staggered studs mounted with RSIC clips. By my estimation this is preferable to RSIC and hat channel on the structural studs. True? Staggered studs decouple. Resilient clips decouple. You don't use clips on a staggered wall.

Floor - This is where I need some help. I have seen where Dennis suggests just laying Acoustik Mat and subfloor over the original subfloor. My questions is : does Acoustik Mat provide the decoupling I need? I thought I would need something like Kinetic RIM or Uboats to get true decoupling.
So which would be better for the floors?
Orig Subfloor - uboat - joist with insulation - new subfloor
Orig subfloor - Acoutik Mat - New BINGO
Orig subfloor - Kinetic RIM - New subfloor

Feedback on this would be much appreciated.

The RIM system introduces an air cavity. The rubber isolators also do this. This is to be avoided. Better to layer the Acoustik Mat and subfloor on top of existing.

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post #5 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 03:09 PM
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What's above the ceiling? Another floor or attic space? If another floor, see how deep the joists are before buying fiberglass. If attic space it *should* already be insulated; if winters are cold and it has R30 or less, consider more as a separate project.
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post #6 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 03:22 PM
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If there is attic space above, and other rooms are connected to this attic space, you should consider GG and another layer of drywall on the ceiling.
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post #7 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 03:24 PM
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You should consider adding damped mass to all surfaces to reduce the amount of vibration that enters the original framing. Once in this framing the vibration can travel great distances, like on a string between two orange juice cans.

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post #8 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Staggered studs decouple. Resilient clips decouple. You don't use clips on a staggered wall.

I was referring to something like the link below. Does noone do this?. I thought this would be preferable to staggered studs and then using resilient clips with hat channel. It seems to come out to be about the same price based on my estimates.

It wont let me post links until my third post

http://www.pac-intl.com/decoupled_lp_wall_system.html
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post #9 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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http://www.pac-intl.com/decoupled_lp_wall_system.html
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post #11 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 06:47 PM
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Are you asking if using the resilient clips to mount studs as shown in those images is a good idea? Not a bad idea, but not economical perhaps. Not done as a rule.\\

Modifying a single stud wall into staggered might be an option: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/..._construction/

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post #12 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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If I do the staggered stud wall as shown in this link, then I need to use resilient clips with hat channel to mount the drywall and get the desired decoupling. Correct?
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post #13 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 07:46 PM
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No. The staggered stud wall is considered decoupled. The Clips&Channel decouple. Adding the two is largely redundant.

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post #14 of 15 Old 01-25-2010, 09:46 PM
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Ted, in a staggered stud wall unless the top and bottom plate are attached with isolation the staggered stud wall transfers as much vibration to the floor and ceiling joists as a regular wall. Yes/No?
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-26-2010, 07:21 AM
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Yes. Anything short of a double wall with the inner wall being isolated from the joists with clips will risk some conduction from the wall into the joists. This is true for clips as well as staggered studs. Double studs are the gold standard

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