Great Dane Cinema aka Brent's Budget Theater - Page 2 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 224 Old 02-23-2012, 07:04 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I understand that their is wanting to be same, then I think that their is going overboard. Unless you are going to live in a cement block house you are always going to have the chance of fire.

Personaly I didn't even look at the fire property of materials when I did mine, just at what gave us the look we wanted.

GOM 701 on the screen wall for AT
GOM Anchorage for all the wall panels, much better looking material then the 701 but still AT enough for sound treatements. Flammability is AST E-84 Class 1 or A for what ever that means.

To me that biggest chance of fire is going to come from your equipment. Mine is all in a wood cabinets, so really the wall coverings would be the least if my worries
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 224 Old 02-27-2012, 10:05 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I got my eagle aspen ROTR100 a couple days ago....and Ive been busy! I ran an IR emitter to the front of the theater. I have a cat 5 run to my server rack fro IR send/receive, so it was really easy to add another emitter.
Then I proceeded to set up eventghost to control it. This process was more tedious than usual. For some reason it took several tries to capture each IR code from the remote. But once I had the codes, I could set up Macros to do whatever I want. Its controllable from my PC and my iphone via a web interface at the moment.
I then made a large wheel/pulley out of some scrap plywood, mounted it to a shaft and to the ROTR100.

Here's a video of what I had at the end of the night. It still needs some tweaking. and obviously i need to hide the mechanicals behind the screen wall, but, I was so excited to see it work the first time!


Its cheap and easy to build. Total cost of the masking system was only around $150. Its a pretty simple implementation and its put together from mostly off the shelf parts. I could probably construct the whole thing in one night.

meyer64 is online now  
post #33 of 224 Old 02-27-2012, 10:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,707
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by meyer64 View Post

.......and the stretch velvet for the star ceiling. they also happen to be the cheapest options by far.

Nooooooooo. Please read my star ceiling build before using the stretch velvet. That fabric was a waste of $150 and cost me about 30 hours of labor. The stretch velvet comes in 8 yard bolts and every bolt is just a bit different. If you have a joanne's store go in and look at the fabric from different bolts on an angle - some have a lot more sheen than others. Spray adhesive does not stick well to the shiny back of the velvet either.

By the way your masking system looks great. Would be interested in seeing more details of how it and your automation system work.
stockmonkey2000 is offline  
post #34 of 224 Old 02-28-2012, 07:03 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Masking look really good. Were you actually able to use the rotor as is with out modifing it. The rest of us have canabalized it using only the sensor and control board do to the motor only making a little over 1 revolution. Looks like you were able to get around that with a big pulley, surprised you had enough power then. Also what kind of system are you using to keep the masking material tight? I have a counter weight on mine.

Edit: After watching you vid with some sound I hear that the rotor motor is pretty loud. That is the issue that I have with mine right now is too much noise, so I am looking at changing it. Looks like the Rotor motor isn't what I want any way, and I would need a 24" diameter pully to use it.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #35 of 224 Old 02-28-2012, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I got the idea to use the large pulley approach from JARathje's 2 way masking design. The rotor doesnt have tons of power, but it doesnt take a whole lot to operate a traverse curtain rod either. There really arent any forces to work against other than a little friction. There are no springs or weights.

Right now the masking panels arent all that tight. they are just panel track curtains from ikea.
I used some cheap velvet from joans for the fabric to test. there is an aluminum strip along the bottom to help keep the fabric in form. but it doesnt do a very good job on heavier fabric. i plan to turn this into a frame similar to a window screen frame to wrap the fabric around.

Instead of attaching the pulley directly to the ROTR100 like JARathje did, I used a drive shaft... actually... its a curtain rod:


I was hoping that i could use the plate on the end of the rod to run some screws into the pulley. It might have worked, but i had to tap the bearings on to the shaft and apparently that plate isnt attached to the rod very well.... so i ran some 3 in deck srews into it instead:


I didnt take any pictures during the assembly, I was too concerned about getting it done! Heres some pictures of the completed drive assembly:




And in place on the left side of the screen. Its just sitting there now, not permanently mounted, and it will move at least a little from this position due to a few issues.


I cut a notch in the wheel and just tied a knot in the curtain cord:

I might make the notch a little wider so the cord slips out in the event that the wheel turns past the range of the curtain track. That way there is no catastrophic destruction. 2.35:1 is with the notch on the far right, 4:3 is a 180 degree turn on the left, if it would turn past that, it would cause the cord to tighten and could cause damage if there were no failsafe.

Here are some screen shots of my iphone web interface:




when the buttons are clicked it invokes in event in eventGhost to set the masking or lighting scene using IR commands sent through the USB-UIRT attached to my server. I dont use the built in presets, instead i have the server send the degree of rotation to the ROTR100. so for example if i select 2.35:1, the server sends:
ESC, 0, 0, 0 to the ROTR.
16:9 it might send:
ESC 1,2,3

This will make it easier for me to set up the stopping points, since the rotor controller will be out of view. I can make changes directly in eventghost. the ESC command ensures that any rotation in progress is immediately stopped and the new command executed without delay.



There are still a few issues I need to address. First there is a little bit of play in the whole system. If i extend the masks to 16:9, then go back to 2.35:1. the rotor turns about 3 degrees before the masking starts to move. This is due to a slight stretch in the traverse rod cord. I may mount the rotor above the screen to shorten the cord to reduce the stretch or possibly replace the cord with some sort of cable with less stretch. There is also a little bit of play in my fabulous wooden block connection between the traverse rod and the panel track.


I plan to replace this with a metal bracket of some sort.
The next issue is that of noise. This contraption is not quiet by any means. The ROTR100 is pretty loud. That was another reason for using a drive shaft. I plan to build a box around the rotor, pack it with insulation and then place that box inside the corner bass trap to reduce the noise.
JKingAudio likes this.
meyer64 is online now  
post #36 of 224 Old 02-29-2012, 07:07 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I will bet it is quieter then my current system is

But it is so dead on accurate and always works I hate to mess with it, but in time I will. Mine gets a little more complicated because it actually closes and covers the entire screen.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #37 of 224 Old 04-02-2012, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I have finished framing in most of the soffit. There is just a little bit to finish up in the front of the room where the soffit and light tray will be curved to match the stage.

Proof of progress pics:




My dad brought me a surprise while I was at work the other day too. I was almost ready to abandon the idea of filling the stage with sand due to the cost of bagged sand. But Dad came through and brought over a load of washed sand.

It wasnt exactly dry though and I'll need to carry it in the house by the bucket full. But its free, so i cant complain too much. Actually i discovered that i can use my snow sweeper thing on my windshield scraper to brush the dry sand on the top into a pail pretty quickly and as long as its sunny, it doesn't take long for another layer to be dry.

So i took the top back off the stage and started filling it with sand.



I expect to be be done filling it in about a week. Its not a difficult or strenuous process, just time consuming.

I also ordered some GOM FR701 Black fabric today as well as the fiber optics for the star ceiling. I decided on Black gom for the ceiling for a couple reasons. First, the stretch velvet I had in mind apparently has consistency issues between bolts. Second, its REALLY easy to push the optical fibers through the GOM. some of the other fabrics I tested take a bit of effort to poke them through.

Im still undecided which fabric to use for the lower (black) portion of the walls and columns. I should have enough GOM left over to experiment a little, but will need to order more if I decide that its what I want. But funds are depleted again, so that will have to wait.
meyer64 is online now  
post #38 of 224 Old 04-02-2012, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
My star field dimensions will be 7'8" by just under 16' long.
I ordered 5000 ft of .5mm fiber and 1500 ft each of .75 and 1.0 mm fiber. According to my calculations that should be pretty close to the right amount, but i wouldn't be surprised if i need to order more.
meyer64 is online now  
post #39 of 224 Old 04-03-2012, 07:03 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by meyer64 View Post

My star field dimensions will be 7'8" by just under 16' long.
I ordered 5000 ft of .5mm fiber and 1500 ft each of .75 and 1.0 mm fiber. According to my calculations that should be pretty close to the right amount, but i wouldn't be surprised if i need to order more.

If you happen to run short I know I have some left over of each size, don't remember how much though, wasn't alot I don't think.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #40 of 224 Old 04-03-2012, 07:08 AM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,707
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Progress is looking good. Looking forward to seeing your star ceiling.
stockmonkey2000 is offline  
post #41 of 224 Old 04-03-2012, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I'll definitely post more progress pics once I start construction of the ceiling panels. I plan to use the same method that Stockmonkey did for mounting them. I still need to get the MDF and borrow a drywall lift again though.
meyer64 is online now  
post #42 of 224 Old 04-03-2012, 01:23 PM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,707
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
If you can borrow a drywall lift for an extended period you are fine, but I would buy one before I rent one. You are going to likely need one for several days (or weeks in my case) for the star ceiling. What are you using for an illuminator?
stockmonkey2000 is offline  
post #43 of 224 Old 04-03-2012, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I have a friend that owns one. The last time I borrowed it I had it for a couple months, So i don't think keeping it for a couple weeks will be a problem. I'm definitely going to test fit the panels before covering them in fabric like you did as well. I'm sure that my room isn't quite square. Did you have any trouble with the panels sagging at all, since they are only fastened at the edges?
meyer64 is online now  
post #44 of 224 Old 04-03-2012, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
Im using two Coolsky LED illuminators:
http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Co...light_unit.htm

One will be for the Milky way stars (.5 mm fiber) and the other for constellations (1.0 mm) and other brighter stars (.75 mm fiber).
JKingAudio likes this.
meyer64 is online now  
post #45 of 224 Old 04-04-2012, 07:39 AM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,707
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by meyer64 View Post

I have a friend that owns one. The last time I borrowed it I had it for a couple months, So i don't think keeping it for a couple weeks will be a problem. I'm definitely going to test fit the panels before covering them in fabric like you did as well. I'm sure that my room isn't quite square. Did you have any trouble with the panels sagging at all, since they are only fastened at the edges?

The panels are still very straight. They are attached on all 4 edges with the interlocking biscuit joints. I also put some blocks in the middle and nailed the middle section with finish nails so they are attached at the middle also but only by small 18g nails. - Incidentally when I had to pull the panels down because the stretch velvet was not sticking it was pretty hard to pull the panels apart from the finish nails so they do have pretty good holding power. I'm sure the panels would be fine without the finish nails. Just make sure that you have a good surface to screw the panels to. My ceiling had a layer of OSB before the 2 layers of drywall that made finding a good connecting point easy. My method would not have worked if I would have had to screw to a joist or hat channel unless the joist or channel was perfectly lined up with the edge of the panel.
stockmonkey2000 is offline  
post #46 of 224 Old 04-04-2012, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I didn't realize that you put blocks in the middle with finish nails. I think i'll copy that idea too At least it will make me feel a little better knowing there is something holding the middle of the panels too.
I'll need to hit joists for the mounting blocks on the edges. Hopefully it wont be too bad. It would have been nice to have a layer of osb under the drywall though. I'll keep that in mind if I ever build another theater.

I have been debating relocating my projector again. Currently its on a diy mount just behind the first row of seating. I moved it there because i found it annoying when people would get in the way of the projector beam. I have kids and they tend to get up a couple times during the movie. We also like to have snacks and such during a film, so we typically don't sit still without ever getting up during the movie. I'm not sure that I like the idea of it hanging down in the middle of my fancy star ceiling though.

As I see it the advantages are:
1. shorter throw = brighter image
2. if guests in rear row stand up, they dont get in the way of the projector.
3. guests in front row need to get pretty close to the screen before interfering with the image.
4. convenient location for making manual adjustments.
5. its already there.

Disadvantages:
1. short throw may limit my options when replacing the projector. I use close to the least amount of zoom possible on my panny ae700u
2. its in the middle of my ceiling.
3. occasionally vibration from subs, or people walking on the floor above is visible on screen. this wasnt an issue when i had it in the back of the room on a shelf for testing.
4. its close to if not slightly above the top of my screen. this could cause issues with using the zoom method for 2.35 content on the ae4000 i plan to replace it with at some point.


READY... VOTE!
meyer64 is online now  
post #47 of 224 Old 04-04-2012, 09:25 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I know I like mine at the back of the room where it pretty much disapears and you don't see it at all from any seat. For height I have no problems but I may have higher ceilings.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #48 of 224 Old 04-04-2012, 10:07 AM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,707
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by meyer64 View Post

I didn't realize that you put blocks in the middle with finish nails. I think i'll copy that idea too At least it will make me feel a little better knowing there is something holding the middle of the panels too.
I'll need to hit joists for the mounting blocks on the edges. Hopefully it wont be too bad. It would have been nice to have a layer of osb under the drywall though. I'll keep that in mind if I ever build another theater.

Just make sure whatever fabric you choose is compatible with shooting a finish nail through it. With the GOM FR701 I used the nail goes through with no effect on the fabric. However with the GOM Broadcast fabric I used for my acoustic panels it sort of causes the fabric to run like a nylon when you shoot a nail through it.
stockmonkey2000 is offline  
post #49 of 224 Old 04-04-2012, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
meyer64 is online now  
post #50 of 224 Old 04-05-2012, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
i got a couple packages today. I know it will be worth it when its done, but those fiber optics came in a pretty small box and dont look too special considering what they cost.
meyer64 is online now  
post #51 of 224 Old 04-10-2012, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
Im still debating my projector location. Right now its ceiling mounted more or less like this:


if i put it in the rear of the room i'm thinking of mounting it to the under side of the soffit, like this:

that puts it at about a 17' throw distance. I was playing around with the screen size calculator on projectorcentral, and I dont think that will work for my 40" high CIH 2.35:1 screen setup if i use the zoom method. It would work fine if i always keep the PJ zoomed and use the Shrink method with a scaler though. Thats actually what I do now, since manually adjusting my Projector is such a hassle. But I do lose some resolution that way.

Mopar,
Which projector do you have and how far is the throw distance to your screen? What method do you use for 2.35 content?

I need to get this figured out before I can do my star ceiling build.
I am leaning towards putting it at the back of the room, but it seems there are compromises no matter what.
meyer64 is online now  
post #52 of 224 Old 04-11-2012, 07:01 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I have 17'6" from lense to screen, the screen is 56-1/2" tall.

Projector is a Panny 4000 and I use the zoom memory on it to go from 16:9 to 2.35. Works really well and I have no complaints. I am sure by moving it closer I could gain some brightness but I have never felt like it was too dim, but acording to calculators the ftl is way under what people say it should be. Movies we watch in Color 1 (pannys best mode and dimmest) and eco lamp mode.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #53 of 224 Old 04-11-2012, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
That's pretty close to what my throw distance would be if I mount it at the rear of the room. Whats the smallest image Height you can zoom to at that distance for 16:9 content? The calculator says it should be about 44". That would make my screen 105" wide at 2.35:1 ratio, almost 10 inches wider than I had planned.
meyer64 is online now  
post #54 of 224 Old 04-11-2012, 08:06 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I will have to try it out and see. Never zoomed it in to see how small I can get, I will let you know.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #55 of 224 Old 04-12-2012, 06:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I can get 44.5" tall at 16:9 - that is 79" wide
at 2.35 44.5" tall is 105" wide
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #56 of 224 Old 04-12-2012, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
Excellent! Thanks for checking it out. I did some math and I think I can fit a 105" screen width and still have room for my masking panels to move off the sides of the screen. It will be close though.
meyer64 is online now  
post #57 of 224 Old 04-14-2012, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I was in Eau Claire yesterday and found a HVAC company that would sell me Certainteed Toughguard 1" Duct Liner by the foot. I'll be using it on the lower portion of my walls and first reflection points. They stock it on a 59" wide roll. Brought home 30 ft last night. I'll see how far that gets me.
meyer64 is online now  
post #58 of 224 Old 04-17-2012, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I cut my duct liner to pieces approximately the size they will need to be for my acoustical treatments last night. Right now they are just tacked in place with a couple drywall screws. I wanted to put them up to see how much difference they made and try to determine about how much more I need to buy. So far the results are promising, although i'll need to get about 15 more linear ft of it to finish treating the front wall.
meyer64 is online now  
post #59 of 224 Old 04-17-2012, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
meyer64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 47
I've been working on the layout for my star ceiling some more. I still need to get some MDF before I can start though.
I started with a layout I got from mopar_mudder. I used a free program called DraftSight to manipulate his layout into something that will work for my ceiling dimensions. This is not a true accurate star map, but it does contain several constellations. Here's what I came up with:



and how i plan to orient it in my room. sorry, its a bit hard to see due to how sketchup handles viewing photo textures at an angle.


Here is the DWG file I am currently working with for my layout along with some PDF exports for easier viewing. Feel free to modify them for your own uses.

Star_Layout.dwg
Star_Layout_4-17-12_(panels).pdf
Star_Layout_4-17-12_(panels and grid).pdf
meyer64 is online now  
post #60 of 224 Old 04-18-2012, 07:07 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Its lookin good. You will need a rubber room after you get all that fiber run
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off