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Old 09-11-2013, 09:57 AM
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just subscribed - like all the work and details - watching to see how it turns out as i get to my ht
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:55 PM
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Everything is looking great; nice work on the columns. Your room is similar in size to mine. Are you still moving forward with 4x Fi 18's?

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Old 09-17-2013, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Tim, that's still the plans for the subs. I've decided not to buy any equipment until I absolutly need it or the room is almost done so its still a while off before I get them.

An Aspen Woods Theater - Under Construction

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Old 09-18-2013, 06:01 AM - Thread Starter
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More progress this week.

Finished the ceiling in the theater and cutting out the holes for all of the lights. All but one turned out well. In that one, the drill caught the romex in the box and twisted it up which is going to take a bit of work to fix. Finished most of the rough electrical and started installing the pot lights. Also finished rubbing down all of the column bases and attached the ones to the wall that we could.



Drywalled the frame for the bar cabinets we built last week. I’ll mud and tape later.



The biggest job was putting the finished floor in the bathroom. Since this is a basement bathroom I wanted a floor that would be warmer than tile without having to do a heated floor system. As you can imagine, this doesn’t leave you may options; Carpet is never a good idea, some of the new laminates are ok in a bathroom, linoleum and cork were my options. I have always liked the look of cork so chose to go with that. This is NOT the cork that comes on a board and is a snap together floating floor. These are 4mm thick 12” square cork tiles, which by the way, are surprising difficult to find in the city; I had to order them from a company I found online. They came unfinished so that I can stain them.

The installation is similar to how you would install linoleum. On top of the concrete basement slab I have DRIcore and on top of that, in the bathroom, I put down a ½ inch sheet of Baltic birch. Now, Baltic birch is overkill for a subfloor and a regular sheet of sanded one side (good one side) plywood is all you need. The reason I went with the Baltic birch was because of the size. Baltic birch comes in a 5’x5’ sheet and my bathroom is almost the same. It only took a little bit of trimming to get the sheet to fit. This gave me a nice smooth surface to attach the cork to without having to fill any seams. I attached it with some PL premium and staples and then filled any big imperfections that may transfer through. Then the whole floor was sanded and wiped down to get rid of any dust.



The next step was to apply the glue. The manufacturer recommends 30 Green Latex Bond Contact Cement from 3M which is applied to both the subfloor and the back side of the cork tiles. It in a water based cement that goes on a bright turquoise and dries green which makes it easy to see when everything is ready to go. This step took forever, probably because of an unfamiliarity with the product and that the wood and cork are both quite porous. After 2 coats of glue the tiles still weren’t sticking after waiting the recommended 30 minutes for the glue to dry. I put on a third coat to try again.



Whilst this was drying I prepared the threshold made from ¾” maple. I cut it to the right size and sanded it flush with a couple of spare tiles.
I waited a bit longer for the third coat of glue to set up and started placing them again beginning at the door. This time, over half of the tile was stuck like it should be but I still had a corner that wasn’t sticking properly. The manufacturer suggests using a J-roller to roll the tile into the cement. I didn’t want to buy a J-roller for one small job so grabbed the rolling pin from the kitchen and stood on it, rolling it back and forth with my feet. The tile was now stuck down. I finished the rest of the bathroom the same way; placing a tile and rolling it.



Action shot of me trimming the tiles, taken by my 2 year old.



All the tiles laid



After all the tiles were down I have the floor a final roll with the rolling pin. I had a few small gaps between some of the tile which I filled with wood filler. There were also some areas where contact cement got on the front of the tile. Using my random orbit sander I sanded the entire floor which took care of the filler, cement and any other imperfections. After a quick vacuum and wipe with a damp cloth the floor was now ready for stain.

Threshold, tiles sanded and wiped down



We chose a Dark Walnut stain from Valspar which was applied with a foam brush and wiped off with a rag; 2 coats for the cork and 3 for the maple threshold. The last step is the poly, 4 coats will go over the entire floor, which should seal out any moisture.



After the first coat of poly, sorry for the glare.



I am going to be doing something similar in the theater infront of the bar.

An Aspen Woods Theater - Under Construction

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Old 10-28-2013, 06:39 AM
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I missed that last update, looking good!
Any more progress since then?
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Over the last few weeks, I, along with a huge amount of help from my parents, have been pushing to get the non-theater side of the basement finished to meet a couple of deadlines. The first one was carpet being installed on the 23rd of October, the second one is that my electrical permit expires on the 3rd of November so I need the final inspection taken care of before that.

I started in the back room which will be a multi use room. My wife wants to use it for crafts. At the same time we want to be able to have people stay down there. As such we decided on a Murphy Bed that can be brought down on the couple of times a year that we have guests. I purchased the kit from Rockler which is just a kit from Create-A-Bed. The kit comes with all the hardware you need, detailed instructions and a DVD.



They also sell plans for bookcases which flank the bed which I also purchased. The bed itself is fairly straight forward to build. You start with the base,





build the frame and put it all together. If you’re organized, and don’t have to re-do things, you should be able to get it built in about a day or just over. The bookcases are about the same in terms of difficulty, just boxes and face frames.

What took the time for me was fitting it into the room and finishing it.

[



It seemed to take a ridiculous amount of time to get it ready for paint. I also needed to build it in stages, or I thought I did. The original plan was to have the small section under the bed be carpeted. This would have needed me to be able to take the bed out whilst the carpet was being installed and then put it back where it goes The bed fits under a small bulkhead that is already in the room so the plan was to build the bed and bookcases and install them. Then build the panels to cover the bulkhead and leave the middle one removable so that I could attach the bed to the wall. Once we got that all built we figured out that it would be a waste of time to carpet underneath as there is no way you could ever see under there.



With the baseboard mocked up


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Old 11-02-2013, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Next up was tiling the shower. This didn’t go as well as planned, mainly due to the little saw that was recommended. It took forever to cut through the tiles, combined with a slow start and we only got about a third finished. The rest will be finished at a later date.

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After tiling what I could I was able to finish the crown and baseboards and finish the storage bench in the family room.

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Then it was just a matter of prepping everything for paint. I decided to paint everything myself and purchased a Titan XT-250 paint sprayer from Home Depot.
It took me 3 days to spray. I first sprayed the family room, bathroom and base of the Murphy bed in a day. It went pretty well as I was able to keep a window open to help with ventilation. The next day we put the bed back together and did the bit of prep on there to get it ready. On the 3rd day I sprayed again. This was much more challenging. I wanted to do another coat on what I had done on the first day so had to keep the windows taped up. I was using lacquer and started with 1 coat of primer then fixed up any imperfections and sprayed a second coat of primer. This was followed with 2 coats of top coat. I did the entire basement (minus the theater) and pantry on the main floor. I was able to open one of the windows downstairs after the first coat of top coat but the fumes were still intense. I went through 2 sets of charcoal filters on my mask and I’m pretty sure I still ended up a bit high as I was slurring some words. The house still smells a bit like fumes now, a week later. The dust was also overwhelming. I sealed off the basement as well as I could but even so, and with the little bit of spraying in the pantry there was dust everywhere. Overall everything turned out well but I’m not sure I want to go through that again.

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I have a lot of stuff to spray in the theater. Does anyone know of an alternative to lacquer I can use on the wood in there? There will be quite a bit and with little ventilation I’m hesitant to use lacquer again.

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Old 11-02-2013, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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After the spraying was done it was time for the walls and ceiling. I decided on spraying the ceiling and leaving it un-textured. This went much better and was quite fun. The walls were rolled. I also installed thresholds going into the theater and into the mechanical room.

One of the code requirements here is that if a room adjacent to a mechanical room is to be used as a bedroom a door sweep has to be installed. As I was making some adjustments to the one I had installed I got into an argument with my chisel and it attacked me. So after a quick trip to the hospital and 5 stitches I was back at it the next day, only with limited use of my left hand. Since I was only painting the walls that day it didn’t slow me down too much.

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Some finished shots with and without carpet.

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That took us to last Sunday when we started wrapping up some of the electrical, installing light fixtures, speakers, switches and outlets.

Yesterday, I had my final electrical inspection which I passed with only a couple of issues and I finally got one of the toys I’ve been waiting for in the mail

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Old 11-03-2013, 06:08 AM
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What an incredibly professional job! Well done, sir!

No advice for you on an alternative to laquer, only that it might be worthwhile to set up a temporary booth in an area you can ventilate to the outside. When I sprayed the nursery with oil-based primer thinned with paint thinner, the fumes were something else, even with direct ventilation to the outside and a nice draw of fresh air into the room.

Looking forward to more updates.
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:45 PM
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Old 02-27-2014, 02:53 PM
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More photos please! How have the latest get-to-gethers / movie nights gone? :)


SEOS Fusion 10 Max, SVS PB10 and DIY SI18 subs, Denon X4000, Epson 8500 & 2.35:1 AT Screen
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:13 PM
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Thumbs up Update

I was wondering how your theatre was going? I saw your build with my wife when we picked up the bucket of green glue you were selling. I was so impressed with what you did that if it has moved along I would love to see the progress. I can imagine there are other people that would like to see what you have done!

I was also wondering about you background. We talked and you are engineer but your skill with wood work and construction is so impressive I was wondering if your father or someone you know is a carpenter and taught you? I have some skill but it is not in the same league of what you can do!
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Guys, sorry for falling off the face of the earth. Due to some life changes, unfortunately I have to sell the house. The theater is still being worked on. At the moment all of the columns and wainscoting is done and it's almost ready for paint. I have been taking pictures and just need to find the time to get a proper update together. Hopefully soon.

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Old 09-03-2014, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesB77 View Post
Hey Guys, sorry for falling off the face of the earth. Due to some life changes, unfortunately I have to sell the house. The theater is still being worked on. At the moment all of the columns and wainscoting is done and it's almost ready for paint. I have been taking pictures and just need to find the time to get a proper update together. Hopefully soon.
Sorry to hear that you are selling the house. You have poured a lot of your time and energy into it and probably a bit of your heart and soul as well.
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Now That I have a bit of time I thought I’d update the threat to the point I left the theatre.

To finish the equipment room I built book shelves for DVD/CD storage on the landing





Closed in any openings and added trim



The ceiling was finished off with panel moulding, filled and sanded.




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Old 01-14-2015, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Wainscoting

To start the wainscoting I cut up a bunch of scrap ½” and ¾” in to blocks. This gave me a thickness of 1 ¼”. With the ¾” thickness of the panel it gave me a total thickness of 2” which is the same thickness as the acoustic treatments.



The frame was then made using the Kreg Jig and pocket screws.



Test fit



And going up the stairs.



I also carried it across the doors so that they would appear hidden when closed



Linacoustic was added behind the panels and they were attached to the wall.



To finish the wainscoting off I added a cap/chair rail. The cap and the tops of the column bases were made the same way. 2 pieces of ¾” mdf were glued together and then ¾” round over bit was run along the outside edges.


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Old 01-14-2015, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Electrical Panel Door

To close in the electrical panel opening I made my own door.

I cut a piece of ¾” mdf to size and made a frame with 2x2’s



Added pink insulation



Then added another piece of ¾” MDF, Green glue and 5/8” mdf to match the rest of the wall structure. It was hung with 2 of the same wide throw hinges used for the other doors.


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Old 01-14-2015, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Columns

Then it was on to the columns. I had 2 full columns and 6 half columns to build, half of which had HVAC tubes running in them. The original plan was to order plywood half and full cylinders which would have cost about $1000. Because of limited time and in an effort to save money I decided to try a different method.

First, using the jasper jig, the decorative tops and bottoms to the column were cut.



And then cut in half on the table saw for the side columns.



I would later add 2” spacers to these half rounds to accommodate the thickness of the acoustical treatments. Next a ladder was built for support. For the side columns



And the front



To skin these ladders I used a sonotube. On the front columns the sonotube just slid over the ladder. On the side columns the tube had to be cut. To find where to split the tube I used a piece of drywall tape. Mark the tube where you want your first cut and put one end of the tape on this mark. Wrap the tape all the way around and transfer the mark to the other end of the paper. This will give you the circumference of the tube. Take the paper off and fold it in half to get the cut on the opposite side. I used a chalk line to get a straight line and then used my table saw to cut it.



And a test fit with the bases



The sonotube was attached with glue and staples, filled and sanded.



The columns with HVAC in them had the HVAC tubes finished in to the column bases



And their ladders modified to be able to fit around the HVAC



Another test fit with the columns



Between the ridges in the sonotube and the filling it was not a smooth surface. So I needed to cover it with something. My original though was veneer, but since I was trying to keep cost down I tried to find something else. What I found was a product called Ram Board. It is a thick, almost construction paper, that is used to protect finished floors when there is still work being done. Since the columns were being painted I thought this would work well.



I used contact cement to attach the Ram Board to the column



Filled the cavity with pink insulation


And using blocks attached to the walls



Installed the columns



Doing the columns this way was much cheaper (I saved about $800) but was VERY labour intensive. Had I been staying in the house I think I would have used the plywood cylinders.

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Old 01-14-2015, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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This is where I left the theatre. It was almost ready for paint.







The house sold in September and the new people took possession in November. I have no idea what their plans for the space are and I’m a bit sad not to have been able to finish the theatre. I learned a lot and will take what I learned to build another one in the future.

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Old 01-14-2015, 02:47 PM
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I'm sorry we don't get to see it finished, but I'm glad you're successfully transacted and moving into a new place (I hope?).

How much was the theater space a selling point for those buyers?
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will start building a new house in the next month or two which just happens to have a perfect space for a home theater.

It's tough to tell because it was unfinished. The house had a lot of positives which certainly helped in the sale. Each of the realtors we brought through when choosing a realtor was very impressed with the space but lamented the fact that it was unfinished. In the end we knocked some off the house price in order for the new owners to finish the space. I have no doubt, based on the realtor reactions, that, had it been finished, it would have been a big selling feature.

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