The Theater formerly known as Basement - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 2Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 169 Old 05-10-2010, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Hey guys,
My name is Craig. I am new to the board and have been looking over some of the builds on here. Very impressive stuff! I am currently in the process of finishing my basement, part of which includes a theater area. I have the walls up and am currently trying to decide exactly how the rest of the room should look. The dimensions are 19' 10" long and 14' 6" wide stud to stud. I am trying to figure out where the riser should end, which I guess depends on how big of a screen I use, and stuff like that. The overall basement is going pretty well. Before I started the framing, I put down an insulated subfloor (Ovrx Barricade) which was 2'x2' tongue and groove OSB with XPS foam attached to it. I also have 2" XPS foam on all foundation walls, taped and sealed with mastic. My goal was to keep the wood away from the concrete. Anyhoo... Take a peak at my progress. I'll try and dig up some pics of the complete 'before' photos.
Hope to post progress as I make it.
-Later!










LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
craig72 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 169 Old 05-10-2010, 03:45 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,720
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 231 Post(s)
Liked: 581
A sketch of the proposed layout might help us understand what we are looking at. Is that 2x4 frame laying down the proposed riser or were you building a wall and haven't tipped it up?
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #3 of 169 Old 05-10-2010, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Yeah, I suppose that would be helpful
The frame on the floor is the riser. I didnt want it too tall since I am contending with a standard 8' pour in the basement.With the framing, floor board, it will be a bit over 4" above the main part.

The shaded area shows the riser location. Hope this helps clear things up.
Craig


LL
craig72 is offline  
post #4 of 169 Old 05-10-2010, 04:27 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,720
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 231 Post(s)
Liked: 581
If you want the back to be open this is how I would do it. Not sure what you have in mind as nothing is shown on the plan.



from:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1022589

couple items of feed back, I'm not sure the door optimally located and the riser size and height aren't what I would have expected. How far from the front wall is the front edge of the riser? What are your plans for the screen wall, stage etc.

It would help if you took a copy of your floor plan and overlayed your seating plan and calculated viewing distances for both rows. That would let us see the traffic flow and I think there may be a problem(s)
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #5 of 169 Old 05-11-2010, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
The plan is to use two rows of seating, the first being up against the riser, and the second row set back from there. We had talked about the bar design you posted, but I just could not get the spacing the way I wanted. The riser that is there is just laying on the floor (not yet attached). After looking at it (and walking on it), I think I can make it higher without too much problem. Behind the second row, we plan to put a couple of bar-height cocktail tables with seating. The back of the theater is just open to the hallway with a step down. I did not want it closed in, but rather open to the rest of the downstairs area. I know that that is not acoustically ideal, but that was never a goal.

I do need to figure out what size screen would be best. The screen wall is 13'7" stud to stud, while the height is 7'8" subfloor to joist. I was originally planning on a 102 ~ 106, as I would like my first row of seating to be around 10ft (I have a beam overhead at that point that I would like to mount the projector to. I figured that sitting down, having the projector overhead would not be a problem, and the beam will not flex with upstairs traffic). Next row would be 4-5 ft behind that (or whatever is comfortable)
I'll see if I can sketch my thoughts on the seating, although I cant draw worth a darn

Any thoughts?
Thanks guys.
craig72 is offline  
post #6 of 169 Old 05-14-2010, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
So after going blind trying to play catch-up, here is what I am thinking. I would like to use a 103" viewable (which is a 110" I think) 2.35 screen. Depending on how deep I make the riser, I can get a 10-11 ft distance from screen to eyes. The next row would be 14ft or so. The projector could be mounted just behind the back row from the ceiling. I am planning on building the new riser from 2x6s. Once its floored and carpeted, it should be a bit shy of 7", which gives me enough headroom without feeling claustrophobic.
The speakers shown are my four Klipsch KLF-20s. I have a KLF-C7 that will serve as the center, and will be putting in the corresponding KSP speakers to jump to 7.1.

Here is a rough idea of the layout.


Does the 10+ ft setback seem appropriate for the size of screen Im after? I taped the width on the wall, and it didnt seem like it would be an issue.
Any thoughts?

One a different note.. has anyone used one of these little buggers? This is one handy little thing to have when taking a bunch of measurements. Sure beats dealing w/ that damn tape measure..


Are we having fun yet??
LL
LL
craig72 is offline  
post #7 of 169 Old 05-15-2010, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
So I wanted to post some 'before' pics. This is the best I could come up with.

Here is subfloor! About 1500sq/ft worth. That was fun carrying downstairs.. not.


Laying in the drain for the wetbar.. again, that was fun.. not


Spreading it around..


On the one section that the builder framed by the stairs, I ripped off the drywall and used spray foam against the concrete (since I could not do the XPS). This was really cool stuff. I did the entire band-board around the perimeter of the basement. Its like Great-Stuff on steroids..


One of the hired helpers ratcheting down the concrete anchor..

LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
craig72 is offline  
post #8 of 169 Old 05-16-2010, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
So I am thinking about some changes to my layout.
Here are the main items:
1) Close off the back wall. I originally wanted to leave this open so as to not make the back hallway feel to closed in. I also thought I would be able to fit some additional cocktail table type seating behind the second row and wanted easy access. But I think I underestimated how far back the first needed to be.
2) Modified the riser so that it does not span the entire back of the room. The step up will actually be inside.

I would like the sub to actually be in front if I can find a good way to build it into a stage without having to move the screen out. (I have an idea in my head but cant seem to get it on paper yet).

Still undecided about the media cabinet location. I like it on the side wall because it doesnt take up any floor space, and I would have free access to the back.

Any opinions welcome.


LL
craig72 is offline  
post #9 of 169 Old 05-16-2010, 07:19 PM
AVS Special Member
 
RPh Drew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1,227
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
IMHO... the isle up the side is a waste of prime seating real estate.

Move the door closer to the front of the room.
Make the riser taller. (3.5" doesn't do much of anything) Even with 8" ceilings you can go a little higher.
Your fronts are apparently going to be visable, why not the sub as well on a stage in front.
With 13'7" of width, I would consider going with a larger screen. You might push the chairs back a touch.
If that room to the right is just storage, I would definately put my equpiment on that wall for easy access to the back.
Why the big hole in the left side wall? You are either in the theater or you are not.

Only 4+ feet between rows? What type of seating?



Man, that took longer than I thought it would...

Loganed 4/6/08 Logan's Hero 5/1/08

RPh Drew's INDEXED Thread - Logan's Hero... for now...

2010 - The year of the Shed
RPh Drew is offline  
post #10 of 169 Old 07-01-2010, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Whew.. finally back working again.. After the fiasco with my finger:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ight=shoot+eye

and continuing work on other parts of the basement, I am back to looking at the theater.

RPh Drew - Your comment about the hole in the wall made me laugh..and I totally agree, however, this was a compromise with the project manager. Since I am taking up 'sooo much space', she didnt want it to look like a cave (although I tried to explain that that was the point..). But, pick your battles.

I really like the look of this theater, but I am going to skip on the bar seating in the back since I dont think I can quite squeeze all of that in and still get the bigger screen.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=628588

Your idea about moving the door up front is good, but we have a kitchen/bar area going there. After reading your suggestion, I tried rearranging but could not get it to work.

Anyway, I will be undoubtedly posting some more questions as I get back to the room and continue designing the stage and riser.

A quick question about speaker placement. I am going to be using 4 Klipsch KLF-20s for the front/rear. I have read conflicting info about how these should be placed since they are a horn type speaker. Is placing them in the corner, toed into the listening area acceptable for these? This will play into my desired stage design. I'll try to put up some sketches later.
Any thoughts?
craig72 is offline  
post #11 of 169 Old 07-01-2010, 04:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
xb1032's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,343
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Just a quick note about speaker placement is that your rear surround speakers are supposed to be centered more as seen here (whether the Klipsch differ because of the horned tweeters I don't know but personally I would go with the recommended setting just in case you change speakers out later):

http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-ent...peaker-set-up/

Also, if you are going to only use a 5.1 setup (judging by your pics) I would at least wire for 7.1 just in case you change your mind later.

I also cast my vote for putting the sub up front as well.
xb1032 is offline  
post #12 of 169 Old 07-01-2010, 05:15 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Drew_V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,001
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig72 View Post

Spreading it around..



You know, I think *EVERYONE* has one of those friggin' trampoline things in their way while they're working on their basements. I've seen at least 3 or 4 other builds with that same thing sitting right in the middle of their work area.

Check out my pics in my build thread -- you can see plenty of shots of that EXACT SAME trampoline right in my theater during the build. Luckily, I managed to get rid of it before I drywalled.

--Drew


My basement theater build thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1243820

Started: 2/20/10
Completed: 10/10/10
Drew_V is offline  
post #13 of 169 Old 07-01-2010, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Drew, it was like Seek-and-Find book, but I found the trampoline! Also found the Dora backpack, which we have laying around somewhere.
I wish my build was as far along as yours. Looking really good. You'll love the subfloor, I used one and its amazing how much warmer the basement stays when you cover 1600 sq ft with it!

XB1032, I am planning on using 7.1 (or 7.2) with klipsch ksp-s6 for the sides. I just dont think I can fit another pair of KLFs in there I would like to put the sub up front, but I am torn about how to hide it. Since I want the front to look something like this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=628588

I dont know where it would go. And given the size of screen I want to use, I cant put it behind, because I think the front row would be too close at that point. AARRGGG! I thought about taking the sub out of the enclosure, buying a couple more (Its an Adire Audio Tempest 15"), and building a custom enclosure as part of the center stage.
Here is the box as it is now. Its approx 23" on all sides, constructed of Baltic Birch. Bottom plate is double thickness. Its a pretty hefty sucker..


Notice all of the dado cuts for the inner bottom plates and middle supports. That was a fun project.





LL
LL
LL
craig72 is offline  
post #14 of 169 Old 07-01-2010, 08:58 PM
Advanced Member
 
auburnu008's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 846
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Where is the trampoline? lol

War Eagle!
auburnu008 is offline  
post #15 of 169 Old 07-02-2010, 06:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
xb1032's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,343
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig72 View Post

...XB1032, I am planning on using 7.1 (or 7.2) with klipsch ksp-s6 for the sides. I just dont think I can fit another pair of KLFs in there I would like to put the sub up front, but I am torn about how to hide it. Since I want the front to look something like this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=628588

I dont know where it would go. And given the size of screen I want to use, I cant put it behind, because I think the front row would be too close at that point. AARRGGG! I thought about taking the sub out of the enclosure, buying a couple more (Its an Adire Audio Tempest 15"), and building a custom enclosure as part of the center stage.
Here is the box as it is now. Its approx 23" on all sides, constructed of Baltic Birch. Bottom plate is double thickness. Its a pretty hefty sucker..

You could consider doing the whole front as a false wall and moving the seating back a little (looks like you have 5' from the back row viewing position to the back of the room). If you set it up that way you could hide all of your speakers. One downside to the setup you linked would likely be light reflections from the screen to the wood sides/top right next to the screen.

Your sub could end up sounding good where you have it but the downside is you won't know until the walls are up and the room is carpeted, etc.

You might end up finding yourself wanting more subs as well. I had two 15" Dayton Titanic subs in my family room upstairs in a 20x18 family room with 9' vaulted ceiling which was open to the kitchen and they shook the house. When I put them in my media room downstairs (19'x13'x7.5') it didn't cut it. I ended up buying a 3rd sub and putting 1000 watt amps on all three and it much better.
xb1032 is offline  
post #16 of 169 Old 07-08-2010, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Do you ever think you are making such big strides in progress, only to go back and look at pictures from a few weeks ago and see that not much has changed?

We (my bride and I) did some goofing around with a temp screen frame, front row seat and a riser prototype. We figured that an approx 11" riser was needed for someone of her height (5' 3") sitting in back to see over my head (6') in front.

Here are some specs to see if this makes sense to you all. (All y'all for those in the south)

The viewable portion of the screen (120" 2.35) is approx 30.5" off the floor.
Front row screen to eyeball is about 10.5'.
Front row eyeball to floor is about 37"
Second row screen to eyeball is about 16'.

Does 11" seem unreasonable? The basement is a standard 8' pour, so it was close, but not uncomfortable. Its not like people will be dancing up there or anything (at least I don't think so).

Construction wise, I'm thinking felt/2x10/felt/double 3/4" tongue and groove osb. Fill with R30 batt. Its going to be built on top of the current sub-floor.

Thoughts on this? Also, do I need to do something special in the construction to keep it from being 'boomy'? (Is that even the correct term?)
craig72 is offline  
post #17 of 169 Old 07-08-2010, 07:59 PM
AVS Special Member
 
RPh Drew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1,227
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I was a little original on my riser design. Link

I am glad you are going taller on the riser and yes 11" in reasonable. Definately use the two layer of flooring on top. It really stiffens it up. Note in my link how only the outter edge touches the ground. I used joist hangers for everything in the middle which allow for an imperfect floor.

Man, that took longer than I thought it would...

Loganed 4/6/08 Logan's Hero 5/1/08

RPh Drew's INDEXED Thread - Logan's Hero... for now...

2010 - The year of the Shed
RPh Drew is offline  
post #18 of 169 Old 07-09-2010, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Thanks Drew.
Your riser looks pretty sturdy, they could have used some of those on the Titanic...

Another question about the riser... Is it common practice to install the riser after the drywall is up? I thought I read this to be true for a stage, but was not sure about a riser.

Craig
craig72 is offline  
post #19 of 169 Old 07-09-2010, 02:59 PM
Member
 
wesley8808's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Craig,

How do you like the Barricade product? I am in the process of finishing my basement now and was orginially going to go with Dri-core, but then saw the Barricade in your build. Are there a lot of flex spots?

Where did you buy it from?
wesley8808 is offline  
post #20 of 169 Old 07-09-2010, 03:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
RPh Drew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1,227
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig72 View Post

Your riser looks pretty sturdy, they could have used some of those on the Titanic...

Naw... just would have made it sink faster... Although doesn't wood float??? Might need to ask Logan or Oman321 that one... OUCH.. Water humor not too funny around here...

Quote:
Originally Posted by craig72 View Post

Another question about the riser... Is it common practice to install the riser after the drywall is up? I thought I read this to be true for a stage, but was not sure about a riser.

Yes, dry wall first, then build the riser and/or stage so there is a small gap between so they don't transmit sound to one another. I would also hate to have to work around either to drywall.

Man, that took longer than I thought it would...

Loganed 4/6/08 Logan's Hero 5/1/08

RPh Drew's INDEXED Thread - Logan's Hero... for now...

2010 - The year of the Shed
RPh Drew is offline  
post #21 of 169 Old 07-09-2010, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Wesley,
I special ordered it from Lowes, but HD can get it as well. Here is the manufacturer website:
http://www.ovrx.com/basement-flooring.html

I also looked at the Dri-core originally, but I went with the Ovrx due mainly to the insulation benefit (R3.2) and the self leveling properties over minor imperfections (The dri-core will make a clicking sound, no such sound with this stuff). Also, you dont need to worry about any flexing..per the website, it can handle 5000 pounds per square foot. I am using 5" concrete anchors for my walls and have cranked them down really good with no compression issues (See the last picture of my original post).

I absolutely love the subfloor and have no regrets. If you pull the trigger on it, send me a PM and I can give you some pointers

Ovrx also makes insulated wall panels, but I had already done 2" of XPS on all the exterior walls. My goal was to keep all of the framing away from the concrete.
craig72 is offline  
post #22 of 169 Old 07-11-2010, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Hey guys,

I am trying to design the front of the theater in a way that will keep the screen back as far as I can, but at the same time, provide a nice front finish. I really like the wood idea, but I am concerned that if I go this route, I might run into issues with reflections or other issues with the wood faces that are perpendicular to the screen. The sections on the side of the screen would be approx 15" give or take, plus whatever is on the top and bottom. If the wood finish is too reflective, could I use a flat black finish on those portions, or would that just look weird?

Any ideas?

(Im new to this whole sketch thing, so mind the color and other abnormalities. I hope it gets my point across.)



Again, what I am really after is something like this..

LL
craig72 is offline  
post #23 of 169 Old 07-11-2010, 01:43 PM
 
mjg100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post

Just a quick note about speaker placement is that your rear surround speakers are supposed to be centered more as seen here (whether the Klipsch differ because of the horned tweeters I don't know but personally I would go with the recommended setting just in case you change speakers out later):

http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-ent...peaker-set-up/

Also, if you are going to only use a 5.1 setup (judging by your pics) I would at least wire for 7.1 just in case you change your mind later.

I also cast my vote for putting the sub up front as well.

I agree. Wire for a standard 7.1. You can start off with 5.1. Also forget about selecting front or back for the sub. Place wiring so that you can do both. Multiple subs is probably the biggest audio improvement you can do. As to the isle being used for seating. Keep the isle. Seating next to the wall and that close to the speakers is not a good thing. Too many people want to cram in too man seats and end up with seating too close to speakers.
mjg100 is offline  
post #24 of 169 Old 07-11-2010, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Thanks for the feedback. I do plan on wiring for 7.1. The challenge is going to be getting a hold of a set of the ksp-s6 for the sides

Also, if you check my last picture, the plan is to use multiple subs up front and put them in a custom cabinet. I currently have the one Adire Audio Tempest 15. I want to take that out of the box its in and get two Tempest-X2 15s. Possibly run all three off of a 1kW amp.

And yes, the isle is staying, no way around that one!

My bride ran off with the camera. I have some updated pics to post as well. Maybe later!
craig72 is offline  
post #25 of 169 Old 07-11-2010, 06:13 PM
 
mjg100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig72 View Post

Hey guys,

I am trying to design the front of the theater in a way that will keep the screen back as far as I can, but at the same time, provide a nice front finish. I really like the wood idea, but I am concerned that if I go this route, I might run into issues with reflections or other issues with the wood faces that are perpendicular to the screen. The sections on the side of the screen would be approx 15" give or take, plus whatever is on the top and bottom. If the wood finish is too reflective, could I use a flat black finish on those portions, or would that just look weird?

Any ideas?

(Im new to this whole sketch thing, so mind the color and other abnormalities. I hope it gets my point across.)



Again, what I am really after is something like this..

This is where you have to decide if you want to compromise the image when the lights are off for good looks when the lights are on. I did my room based strictly on performance so all of my walls are black. The floor and ceiling is black also. I run pro audio speakers (JTR T8's & JBL 8340's) and four DIY subs. I also have a lot of sound panels and bass traps. Are you going to have an AT screen?
mjg100 is offline  
post #26 of 169 Old 07-11-2010, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
No plans for an AT screen. I am trying to keep it back as far as I can to keep the distance to the first row comfortable.
craig72 is offline  
post #27 of 169 Old 07-12-2010, 12:25 PM
Member
 
wesley8808's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig72 View Post

Wesley,
I special ordered it from Lowes, but HD can get it as well. Here is the manufacturer website:

I also looked at the Dri-core originally, but I went with the Ovrx due mainly to the insulation benefit (R3.2) and the self leveling properties over minor imperfections (The dri-core will make a clicking sound, no such sound with this stuff). Also, you dont need to worry about any flexing..per the website, it can handle 5000 pounds per square foot. I am using 5" concrete anchors for my walls and have cranked them down really good with no compression issues (See the last picture of my original post).

I absolutely love the subfloor and have no regrets. If you pull the trigger on it, send me a PM and I can give you some pointers

Ovrx also makes insulated wall panels, but I had already done 2" of XPS on all the exterior walls. My goal was to keep all of the framing away from the concrete.

I appreciate the reply. I am worried about the added thickness with the barricade product. My basement exit only has 1.5" clearance from the concrete to the bottom of the door. My solution was to tile around the door as a psuedo entry way and then transistion to the carpet once inside. Will also help with wet feet coming in.

My basement (1000 sq ft) has quite a few imperfections with the concrete leveling so I think this would be a better solution than the dri-core if I can figure out the transition.

One a side note, I find it interesting that I am getting better basement ideas and help here in the avs forum than at a forum dedicated to DIY!
wesley8808 is offline  
post #28 of 169 Old 07-12-2010, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Hi Wes,
Like you said, you could always put tile (ceramic or vinyl) at the entryway to the basement with no sub floor underneath. That would keep the height down. You would want to bring it up a bit so the transition wasn't so drastic. A layer or two of the cement backer board would do it.
craig72 is offline  
post #29 of 169 Old 10-24-2010, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I had to bring this thread back from the dead. Seems like forever since I posted. Progress is being made in the basement, but not much in the theater itself. I have been working on electrical lately and am on my 3rd roll of 12/2. The bathroom plumbing is complete and the shower tray is in.
I was hoping to post pics today, but alas, the power supply in my desktop PC started smelling up the house earlier so I had to dust off the laptop.
I do have a couple of questions.
In an effort to keep the WAF at reasonable levels, I will not have to worry about sound proofing due to the 'big hole in the wall' (Thanks Drew, that still makes me laugh). For whatever reason, I cannot get a pass to close off the theater entirely.

Given that, is there any reason that the riser and soffits need to wait until after drywall? I thought that building them after the room was drywalled was to reduce the chance of sound transfer to the other rooms. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I am trying to stay positive by thinking about how much time and money my wife is saving me since I don't have to worry about GG, tons of extra drywall, clips, channels, and whatever other implements of soundproofing I have failed to mention..

I might get brave and fire up the desktop to get some pics (maybe 'fire' is a bad choice of words..)
craig72 is offline  
post #30 of 169 Old 10-26-2010, 04:52 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
craig72's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OFallon, MO
Posts: 196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Another couple of questions as I prepare to run speaker wire.

I noticed that some folks run their speaker wire inside flexible conduit. I understand the reasoning for conduit to a projector or something, but the runs to the speakers have me confused. Is this just cheap insurance in case you want to upgrade speaker wire at some point?

Along those same lines, any suggestions as to speaker wire type? I was looking at Parts Express and they have a couple of different styles of 12/2 in-wall type. Thoughts on that selection or any others?

Unrelated, but did any of you get the storm that came through last night? Wow. Not much lightening, but the wind was unreal.

Thanks guys!
craig72 is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off