Thanks for the support / encouragement, superleo, JJ2K1, chinaclipper and premiertrussman.
Debating whether to make do with my current B&W 5.1 bookshelves (2x dm602, 2x dm601, cc6), maybe adding an extra pair for 7.1 - or put them all on audiogon, and shell out for more suitable HT speakers (TCA PRO-10s).
oorrr...you could just give me the B&w's and i will continue to support whatever other choices you make from here on out.
Depends I guess, Id say definitely set up for 7.1 at least, as that seems to be the most popular format, especially with the advancement of blu ray and HD audio tracks. As far as trading out for different speakers...not sure, im not real familiar with those bookshelves. I'd say do whatever you think you MIGHT want to do even in the future, if you are gonna do it...do it right the first time...assuming financially it makes sense
equipment closet access door - shame if it ends up being a first reflection point (which it probably will), may have to cover the nice looking door with a panel.
door closed, lights on (no baffle trims installed yet, since still have to paint, etc.):
entry door from the inside:
junction box for rope lighting around the soffit:
drywallers buzzed off the screw holes at the bottom for the A/V plate - boo - will need to replace it unless I can jury rig something:
Sloppy with the rotozip - the cost to working as fast as they did (two guys finished putting up all the drywall in the garage and theater in like half a day, done by 2pm or so).
I should have unwired it, I asked them to work around it because I didn't want to hassle unwiring it and putting it back - should have known better.
Sorry Brad, the wires should have been balled up inside the box and those plates should have been safely tucked away during the drywalling. Just like you shouldn't have any switches or receptacles in place until after the drywalling. The outside of the box is the rotozip guide and anything sticking outside is a PIA.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/18949733
Sorry Brad, the wires should have been balled up inside the box and those plates should have been safely tucked away during the drywalling. Just like you shouldn't have any switches or receptacles in place until after the drywalling. The outside of the box is the rotozip guide and anything sticking outside is a PIA.
Oh yeah, I definitely should have known better, and listened to that little voice telling me it was a stupid move. Oh well, if I can't jury rig it, $17.60 at monoprice to replace it, not a huge deal. Better to save the screw ups for the little items.
I did the right thing for every outlet except these. Just my own laziness to blame.
which software did you use to render the drawing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/18653627
(moved the contents of the first post to here, so I can keep updating the first post with a high level overview of what the current plan / stage of construction is, and TOC, etc.)
I had some questions that I thought I'd put here rather than creating a lot of separate posts.
If given a choice for rear surrounds being in the rear corners (or close to it), but at or near ear level; or mounting them higher up (above the door), above ear level - which would be preferable? I'm leaning towards the corners, perhaps building into corner columns that double as bass absorbers.
Given that the room is inside a separate structure (not attached to the house) - how important is having the riser and stage decoupled from the wall framing? The framers want to tie it into the framing before drywalling.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts...
----------
Bump (I guess I really need to add some pictures, changing the title didn't get any attention ;-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/18938287
My current plan is to have all the equipment hidden in the closet - but waffling on whether I should maybe have the front of the rack poke through an opening into the room (with access to the back of the rack from the closet). What would you do?
Personally I like for the equipment to be visible, specially now a days that most equipment with lights or screens can be either dimed down or turned off.
Now noise is another consideration if you have amplifiers with fans or an older PS3 that if it gets hot competes with the now no longer flying Concord jet for decibels.
Pretty much decided that I'll be poking the rack through the wall, and will have it hidden behind a hinged matching wall panel (something like GPowers). Since the closet is fairly narrow, I don't think it would make access to the wiring very practical. Thanks for the feedback guys. Of course, I may change my mind tomorrow...
Its between the LG Art Cool and the Mitsubishi Mr Slim mini split for me - the former looks nicer and up to the 12K BTU model can run on 110v, which is a plus since its already wired to the location for 110v; the latter not quite as nice looking, but apparently a bit quieter, and I'd have to run a 220v line to the location, and add a bridged breaker, but not the end of the world.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/19018562
Its between the LG Art Cool and the Mitsubishi Mr Slim mini split for me - the former looks nicer and up to the 12K BTU model can run on 110v, which is a plus since its already wired to the location for 110v; the latter not quite as nice looking, but apparently a bit quieter, and I'd have to run a 220v line to the location, and add a bridged breaker, but not the end of the world.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/19018562
Its between the LG Art Cool and the Mitsubishi Mr Slim mini split for me - the former looks nicer and up to the 12K BTU model can run on 110v, which is a plus since its already wired to the location for 110v; the latter not quite as nice looking, but apparently a bit quieter, and I'd have to run a 220v line to the location, and add a bridged breaker, but not the end of the world.
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