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263K views 972 replies 135 participants last post by  Nick Woolley 
#1 ·

BEFORE:

 





 

AFTER (that was about 90%, I need to take the real "completed" photos" - have been too busy watching movies to bother):

 









 

DURING:

 

intro
framing
low voltage wiring
insulation
drywall
entry doors / drywall mud
exterior stucco / more drywall mud / recessed lights / GrafikEye
start of soffit framing
soffit bulkhead / false wall
THT LP #1 started
THT LP #1 finished
more soffit framing and soffit insulation
CHT 6x PRO-10, 1x SHO-10 arrive / QSC power amp fan mod
soffit recessed and rope lighting, more soffit insulation
ceiling painted / MA rack purchased
doors painted / superchunk bass traps / column framing / screen wall absorption
column face panels / carpet samples / berkline boxes
column framing finished / wall furring going up
wall panels framing mostly done
panel construction details
soffit fabric covering
soffit fabric done
column vinyl covering
column vinyl covering done / screen wall absorption fabric covering
column face fabric covering
false wall C section / door jamb fabric covering
wall panel fabric samples
carpet
berklines in / THT LP #1 in place
first attempt at sub EQ
projector purchased / testing on temporary screen
wall panel fabric going up
wall panel fabric almost done / some screen shots (still on a temp screen)
screen assembled
screen mounted (piano hinges) / screen shots
left / right / bottom screen surround panels
THT LP #2 under construction
both THT LPs installed / hinged screen supports
EQ for the two subs
XBMC talk
Unacceptable's step by step panel framing tutorial
new SEOS LCR

 
 
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#53 ·
Thanks for the support / encouragement, superleo, JJ2K1, chinaclipper and premiertrussman.



Debating whether to make do with my current B&W 5.1 bookshelves (2x dm602, 2x dm601, cc6), maybe adding an extra pair for 7.1 - or put them all on audiogon, and shell out for more suitable HT speakers (TCA PRO-10s).
 
#54 ·
oorrr...you could just give me the B&w's and i will continue to support whatever other choices you make from here on out.



Depends I guess, Id say definitely set up for 7.1 at least, as that seems to be the most popular format, especially with the advancement of blu ray and HD audio tracks. As far as trading out for different speakers...not sure, im not real familiar with those bookshelves. I'd say do whatever you think you MIGHT want to do even in the future, if you are gonna do it...do it right the first time...assuming financially it makes sense
 
#55 ·
Keeping an eye on your build. Interesting
 
#56 ·
Some updated pics:


Entry door from the outside:




Garage side primed:




Grafik Eye (GRX-3104) installed:




HT side primed:




equipment closet access door - shame if it ends up being a first reflection point (which it probably will), may have to cover the nice looking door with a panel.




door closed, lights on (no baffle trims installed yet, since still have to paint, etc.):




entry door from the inside:




junction box for rope lighting around the soffit:




drywallers buzzed off the screw holes at the bottom for the A/V plate - boo - will need to replace it unless I can jury rig something:

 
#58 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman /forum/post/18948832


ouch that sucks....why would they have done that?

Sloppy with the rotozip - the cost to working as fast as they did (two guys finished putting up all the drywall in the garage and theater in like half a day, done by 2pm or so).


I should have unwired it, I asked them to work around it because I didn't want to hassle unwiring it and putting it back - should have known better.
 
#59 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/18948680


drywallers buzzed off the screw holes at the bottom for the A/V plate - boo - will need to replace it unless I can jury rig something:

Sorry Brad, the wires should have been balled up inside the box and those plates should have been safely tucked away during the drywalling. Just like you shouldn't have any switches or receptacles in place until after the drywalling. The outside of the box is the rotozip guide and anything sticking outside is a PIA.
 
#60 ·
Your flying through. Zoom Zoom
 
#61 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/18949733


Sorry Brad, the wires should have been balled up inside the box and those plates should have been safely tucked away during the drywalling. Just like you shouldn't have any switches or receptacles in place until after the drywalling. The outside of the box is the rotozip guide and anything sticking outside is a PIA.

Oh yeah, I definitely should have known better, and listened to that little voice telling me it was a stupid move. Oh well, if I can't jury rig it, $17.60 at monoprice to replace it, not a huge deal. Better to save the screw ups for the little items.


I did the right thing for every outlet except these. Just my own laziness to blame.
 
#62 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb /forum/post/18949736


Your flying through. Zoom Zoom

Yeah, but now the paid help goes home, and I have to do the rest!
 
#63 ·
which software did you use to render the drawing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/18653627


(moved the contents of the first post to here, so I can keep updating the first post with a high level overview of what the current plan / stage of construction is, and TOC, etc.)


I had some questions that I thought I'd put here rather than creating a lot of separate posts.
  • If given a choice for rear surrounds being in the rear corners (or close to it), but at or near ear level; or mounting them higher up (above the door), above ear level - which would be preferable? I'm leaning towards the corners, perhaps building into corner columns that double as bass absorbers.
  • Given that the room is inside a separate structure (not attached to the house) - how important is having the riser and stage decoupled from the wall framing? The framers want to tie it into the framing before drywalling.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts...


----------


Bump (I guess I really need to add some pictures, changing the title didn't get any attention ;-)
 
#64 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewtle /forum/post/18951456


which software did you use to render the drawing?

The 2D floorplan is Visio; the 3D model is Google SketchUp.
 
#65 ·
Great job so far!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/18938287



My current plan is to have all the equipment hidden in the closet - but waffling on whether I should maybe have the front of the rack poke through an opening into the room (with access to the back of the rack from the closet). What would you do?

.


I would leave it how you planned, even though I prefer it sticking through.

If the equipment hall went towards the back of the room it would look great poking through. Too close to the front might cause a distraction.

Just my $.02

-Jeff
 
#66 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/18797609


So on the back wall about half way up in each of the corners of the room, are those the rear surround wires? Or...
 
#67 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by NewtownTheater /forum/post/19000143


So on the back wall about half way up in each of the corners of the room, are those the rear surround wires? Or...

Yes, they are wires for the rear surround speakers.
 
#68 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by IwantmyTHX /forum/post/18961574


Great job so far!




I would leave it how you planned, even though I prefer it sticking through.

If the equipment hall went towards the back of the room it would look great poking through. Too close to the front might cause a distraction.

Just my $.02

-Jeff

Personally I like for the equipment to be visible, specially now a days that most equipment with lights or screens can be either dimed down or turned off.


Now noise is another consideration if you have amplifiers with fans or an older PS3 that if it gets hot competes with the now no longer flying Concord jet for decibels.
 
#69 ·
Pretty much decided that I'll be poking the rack through the wall, and will have it hidden behind a hinged matching wall panel (something like GPowers). Since the closet is fairly narrow, I don't think it would make access to the wiring very practical. Thanks for the feedback guys. Of course, I may change my mind tomorrow...
 
#71 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snickel /forum/post/19017263


So what are you going to use for ac? You were thinking mini splits. I installed 4 last week, they do the job and don't make much sound

Its between the LG Art Cool and the Mitsubishi Mr Slim mini split for me - the former looks nicer and up to the 12K BTU model can run on 110v, which is a plus since its already wired to the location for 110v; the latter not quite as nice looking, but apparently a bit quieter, and I'd have to run a 220v line to the location, and add a bridged breaker, but not the end of the world.


Which model(s) did you install?
 
#72 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/19018562


Its between the LG Art Cool and the Mitsubishi Mr Slim mini split for me - the former looks nicer and up to the 12K BTU model can run on 110v, which is a plus since its already wired to the location for 110v; the latter not quite as nice looking, but apparently a bit quieter, and I'd have to run a 220v line to the location, and add a bridged breaker, but not the end of the world.


Which model(s) did you install?

2 ton ceiling hung Mr Slim, but I have installed 10 or 12 of the smaller wall hung Mr Slim units in the past
 
#73 ·
That is looking great, good luck with the rest.
 
#74 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan /forum/post/19026210


That is looking great, good luck with the rest.

Thanks a bunch Juan - long way to go.
 
#75 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/19018562


Its between the LG Art Cool and the Mitsubishi Mr Slim mini split for me - the former looks nicer and up to the 12K BTU model can run on 110v, which is a plus since its already wired to the location for 110v; the latter not quite as nice looking, but apparently a bit quieter, and I'd have to run a 220v line to the location, and add a bridged breaker, but not the end of the world.


Which model(s) did you install?

I know you need air circulation in the room Brad ... but c'mon, its ethernally 74 degrees there, no A/C needed



All kidding aside, please post some pics of the mini split.
 
#76 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo /forum/post/19029182


I know you need air circulation in the room Brad ... but c'mon, its ethernally 74 degrees there, no A/C needed

It has been a very mild summer here in So Cal.
 
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