Pimp My Garage - Page 4 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #91 of 956 Old 08-14-2010, 08:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
J_P_A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: L.A. - Lower Alabama
Posts: 4,116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 245 Post(s)
Liked: 254
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

The real trick is to buy the text books from a foreign country where the words are the same, but the book is a whole lot cheaper (because people there won't pay $100+ per book).

Sorry for the continued OT postings on books.

I certainly can't argue with you there, but my luck has been mixed with that. The books I've gotten (India mostly) haven't been as good a quality. The've fallen apart within a few months. But if that's all you need them for anyway, it's certainly a good way to get them cheap........ I'll stop with the textbook posts too

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
J_P_A is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #92 of 956 Old 08-15-2010, 06:06 AM
Newbie
 
vegetto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
i bought all of my textbooks used from half.com or ebay. even if it was the previous edition i never had any problems and this was as a commuter. if there ever was an issue (say w/ exercises or problems) there is always the copy machine. saved like 75% every semester.
vegetto is offline  
post #93 of 956 Old 08-23-2010, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
I got the soffit mostly framed in over the weekend - still need to add a curved section at the front, and relocate the screen lights down into it (wasn't originally planning a soffit); as well as add the rope light tray and fixtures.



Rear - the wiring here was originally for the smoke alarm, I'm going to relocate the smoke alarm and use this box for recessed lights in the soffit.



Left - junction box is where the rope lighting will be wired to.

Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #94 of 956 Old 08-23-2010, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
My killer rack:



(got the receiver a few days ago, so needed to improvise something to at least test it out, even though the room isn't close to ready - my RT60 must be like 20 minutes right now with all the bare walls and concrete - at least gives me something to listen to while working though)
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #95 of 956 Old 08-23-2010, 05:57 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,711
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 229 Post(s)
Liked: 580
I've been using two stacked 5 gallon buckets as a rack for my UPS for my projector for five years. It is strategically located under the service panel.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #96 of 956 Old 08-23-2010, 06:08 PM
AVS Special Member
 
snickel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South central Kansas
Posts: 1,158
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Nice rack you will get good air flow to the bottom of the receiver
snickel is offline  
post #97 of 956 Old 08-23-2010, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Great minds think alike

Note the HD DVD player as the only video source - its going to make a comeback any day now, I just know it.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #98 of 956 Old 08-23-2010, 09:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Stereodude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Detroit Metro Area
Posts: 9,897
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 487 Post(s)
Liked: 523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

... at least gives me something to listen to while working though

Here's my work system:



I made sure I had something to listen to in the basement before I even started my HT. I would have gone crazy working in silence. I actually got it set up before I even cleaned up / organized the basement (a massive project in itself) so I could start the HT. I don't think I would have even gotten the basement cleaned up without it. Before I had tunes in the basement I would lose interest working down there after about an hour. It's fed via optical SPDIF by my PC server which is just barely visible on the far right.
Stereodude is offline  
post #99 of 956 Old 08-24-2010, 09:57 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Chiahead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Parker Colorado
Posts: 1,618
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Brad, love the stone on the entry way!!!

How far down do your soffits hang? Mine are 7 inches and will be 7.5 inches by the time I get frames on the bottom. I am finishing staining some oak ply for the face.

Thanks for the comments on covering the wall behind the screen. As time goes on and I am mulling it, the clouds are clearing a little.

Michael

PSN: Chiahead
Chiahead's Man Cave - Indexed
Loganed on 8/29/2008
Chiahead is offline  
post #100 of 956 Old 08-24-2010, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiahead View Post

Brad, love the stone on the entry way!!!

Thanks Chia! Should look better when not surrounded by weeds, and drywall mud cleaned off of it / sealed. Next project...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiahead View Post

How far down do your soffits hang? Mine are 7 inches and will be 7.5 inches by the time I get frames on the bottom. I am finishing staining some oak ply for the face.

The framing goes down 8 inches, so after fabric frames, yeah I guess another 1/2 inch or so. 23.5" wide on the sides, 21" or so in the rear. I wasn't sure what size to use, this is what I came up with after mulling the following:
  • Started with an article I found online that outlined how to create a soffit - was a big help - suggested 24"x8", and I liked the look in the pictures, in a similar sized room. I had been planning quite a bit narrower, like 17", but the article made a point about 24" being about the minimum to get the recessed lights to work well (away from the walls a bit) - I'm sure I could have gone smaller, but again, I liked what I saw.
  • Adjusted the ones on the side in 1/2" so that on the sides I could hit the parallel ceiling joists with my ledgers on the ceiling - didn't have to add perpendicular bracing.
  • Made the back a bit narrower to keep it a bit further away from the rearmost recessed lights in the ceiling - which were laid out / installed before I decided to add a soffit.
  • Wanted enough height to be able to install light fixtures - need to call the building department and see what I need to do to get the electrical permit changed - already passed electrical inspection, and then decided to do this.
  • Also wanted enough height / tray depth to get the rope lighting to "work" - i.e. to get a glow, and not individual dots from the bulbs. An article I read suggested the minimum is 4-5", so I should have plenty.

At the moment I'm planning on veneering/staining the light tray - but not set in stone yet, I'll decide after I have the light tray built so I can better visualize it.

Still to do: relocate the smoke alarm to a new location, so I can repurpose the existing location as junction box to wire up recessed lights in the soffit; install said recessed lights; snake romex run from lights to Grafik Eye; install new light switch for exterior lights, and move wire from Grafik Eye to that switch (since I now need that 4th zone for the soffit lights); build curved extension to the soffit in front; relocate screen lights into that part of the soffit; build light tray extension; install and wire rope lights; veneer/stain tray...ugh lots to do still, I better stop there...
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #101 of 956 Old 09-06-2010, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
A bit of progress the last couple weeks, not as much as I would have liked to have accomplished, but still progress.

Framed screen wall. No screen yet. The opening is the approximate size of the planned screen, but may have to mount it a little higher than that, in order to keep the PJ ceiling mount from hanging down too low, since I want to due the poor man's CIH, which means the lens can be no lower than the top of the screen. Current eye height is at 1/3 of screen height, so moving it up would be a bit of a compromise, grumble.



Added the curved front of the soffit to match the curve of the stage. The whole soffit was a bit of an afterthought, so I had to relocate the screen lights down into the soffit. Getting that thing up onto the ceiling was a bear with no help, but I managed to figure out a way to do it.



Close up of one of the "old" screen light holes that I plugged.



View of the bracing I created to support the front edge of the soffit.



Added two layers of 1x2s for stage lip, will route a curve on the top edge.

Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #102 of 956 Old 09-10-2010, 05:54 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,711
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 229 Post(s)
Liked: 580


So what are plans for the LP THTs laying down or standing up?

I hope you document the speaker project somewhere.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #103 of 956 Old 09-10-2010, 08:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
superleo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX - USA
Posts: 2,141
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 214
Very nice progress, looking very good!!!

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
Screening Room - The Dream House
RPCRT-TV Overscan Reduction
Reference Blu-Ray Demo Disc

Reference 2: Blu-Ray Demo Disc

The Best of the Demo Discs Demo Disc

superleo is offline  
post #104 of 956 Old 09-10-2010, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
I'll probably start off laying it behind the screen wall firing toward the left wall; and measure against standing it up in the left corner firing toward the ceiling; or right wall, not sure, will play around with it, measure, see what I like. My front wall to the false wall is just 21.5" - will be 20.5" after I add linacoustic, so it will be tight, but enough to shoehorn that 18" dimension in. I wonder also if I would get more of a corner load effect if I stood it up, but tilted it towards the ceiling/wall junction (would have to make a little tilted stand if it worked well that way). Also need to measure the other cabinet dimension to ensure that laid flat I'd still have room to put my LCRs at proper height.

Here's my LP THT build thread - not much there yet lol.

Maybe will go shopping for plywood, PL, drywall screws tomorrow - and a proper plywood cicular saw blade. Always a hassle though, don't have a pickup, so have to rent the HD or Lowes truck.

Edit: forgot to mention, your new DIY mains look hot!
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #105 of 956 Old 09-10-2010, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Very nice progress, looking very good!!!

Thanks much Leo! Wish I had more free time to put into it to accelerate things. Then again, that would accelerate the spending rate, so maybe its best that available time puts a throttle on the $$ outflow.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #106 of 956 Old 09-10-2010, 08:33 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,711
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 229 Post(s)
Liked: 580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

I'll probably start off laying it behind the screen wall firing toward the left wall; and measure against standing it up in the left corner firing toward the ceiling; or right wall, not sure, will play around with it, measure, see what I like.
Edit: forgot to mention, your new DIY mains look hot!

Thanks, So if you stand it up you can do TWO!. Then you can build some 4PIs and we can compare notes.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #107 of 956 Old 09-12-2010, 10:21 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Thanks, So if you stand it up you can do TWO!. Then you can build some 4PIs and we can compare notes.

Hehe yeah - actually even if I lay them down, two would be possible (firing one into each front corner). As tempting as the 4pis are, since this is my 1.0 theater, I think I'll be buying my LCRs. Unless the components to build them go on a crazy sale. Or I change my mind. My wife is getting sick of hearing me say I'm going to Home Depot for more plywood ("what for??").

Got a few annoying tasks done this weekend, nothing pic worthy, but made a huge mess.

- relocated the smoke alarm (original location fell inside where the soffit was framed).
- disconnected the outdoor lighting from the Grafik Eye zone 4; added a junction box inside the rear soffit, where an additional zone of lighting will go, and pulled romex from the Grafik Eye zone 4 to that junction box. I'll add a switch outside to control the outside lights.
- faced the sides of the soffit with drywall (except front - need to wait for electrical reinspection on relocated screen fixtures); started taping and mudding it, until I ran out of mud.
- put a 3/8" roundover on the lip of the stage. Too small, but biggest roundover I had on hand, maybe will get a bigger one, not sure - might not matter once the carpet is wrapped around it.
- used a flush router bit to trim the soffit face drywall.
- reread the THT LP instruction; used CutList to make a cut list; ordered THT supplies.
- did some thinking about column size/design/location, and traced outline of them on the floor to see how they'd work out relative to outlets / doors / seating location.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #108 of 956 Old 09-12-2010, 11:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Moggie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: California, Bay Area
Posts: 1,200
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

- used a flush router bit to trim the soffit face drywall.

There is no better way to create dust than this

My "Old Vic" Theater Build
My 8 year old daughter: "are contractors the people that mess up your house for money?"
Moggie is offline  
post #109 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 02:01 AM
Senior Member
 
WannaTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 488
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
For both the stage and the soffit?
- On the soffit it looks like you have curved white 1x2s?

Thanks!
WannaTheater is offline  
post #110 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 06:42 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,711
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 229 Post(s)
Liked: 580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

put a 3/8" roundover on the lip of the stage. Too small, but biggest roundover I had on hand, maybe will get a bigger one, not sure - might not matter once the carpet is wrapped around it.

It will be fine.




BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #111 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 07:17 AM
Senior Member
 
WannaTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 488
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Big, is that a 2x2 lip that you put around the edge? Hard to tell from the pic.
WannaTheater is offline  
post #112 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 09:37 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,711
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 229 Post(s)
Liked: 580
Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaTheater View Post

Big, is that a 2x2 lip that you put around the edge? Hard to tell from the pic.

I ripped a 2x4 in half and screwed it on with longish deck screws. So it is about 1 11/16 x 1 1/2. I seem to remember putting a slight round-over on the edge.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #113 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 09:43 AM
Senior Member
 
WannaTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 488
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Probably routes a bit better than plywood edges
WannaTheater is offline  
post #114 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaTheater View Post

For both the stage and the soffit?
- On the soffit it looks like you have curved white 1x2s?

Thanks!

The stage was built by my contractors. I specified the dimensions and curve. They drew the curve out using string + pencil arc technique, on a scrap sheet of OSB, used that as a template to draw the outline on the concrete slab and built over that.

I built the soffit. I wanted the curve to match the curve on the stage, here was my approach:

- I first built out the soffit as a rectangle, extending 24" from the front wall (the depth of the front of where my false screen wall would be).
- marked 24" from the front wall onto the top of the stage with a chalk line.
- I then measured to see how deep 4' wide pieces of 1/2" plywood would need to be to extend from that 24" line to the front of the stage (no lip added at this point, the top was flush with the face).
- I cut those plywood sheets, laid them on the floor upside down, and then screwed 2x3's to the back edge.
- I then flipped the whole thing over, put it on the stage with the back edge lined up on the chalk line, screwed it down temporarily to the stage, and rough cut the front edge with a jigsaw.
- ran a flush router bit to even up the front edge with the stage.
- unscrewed it, flipped it over, then bent and screwed 1x2 MDF strips to the curved edge (MDF because its more flexible, less likely to crack when bent).
- marked the depth front to back every 6 inches across it, and then marked those distances on the ceiling with a pencil
- screwed 1/2" MDF strips following that curve, to the studs in the ceiling.
- added small 2x3 blocking on the ceiling at stud locations just behind the MDF edge, and on the plywood just behind the MDF edge.
- added temporary bracing across the corners and the edge against the screen wall to support it while I installed it; (hard part) hoisted up one end on the temp corner bracing on one side, while I got up on a ladder with the other end, and put it up on the other corner bracing.
- screwed a temporary 1x2 support between the center blocking pieces, to hold up the front edge while I connected the rest of it.
- screwed the 2x3 strip on the plywood to the front of the rectangular soffit.
- cut (9 I think) 6" pieces of 2x3, and screwed them to the top and bottom blocking, to support the front edge.
- then installed the light fixtures, and ran the wiring.

That's where I am now - still need to add a 1/4" plywood face, and then drywall over that, mud and tape. Then onto the tray all around, have the rope light waiting to go up already. Moggie's is far nicer, but this should look OK too hopefully once I have it all together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

It will be fine.

Thanks for validating, that's what I thought, that the carpet pad would compress more over the corners on the edge, resulting in a nice enough curve on the lip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I ripped a 2x4 in half and screwed it on with longish deck screws. So it is about 1 11/16 x 1 1/2. I seem to remember putting a slight round-over on the edge.

I did two layers of 1x2s, since the 1x2s are easier to bend around the curve on the stage. On my riser, the two layers of plywood were extended 2" beyond the front edge, as on the riser steps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaTheater View Post

Probably routes a bit better than plywood edges

I was actually pleasantly surprised at how clean the plywood top on my riser routed with a roundover bit - not bad at all, just went at it a little slow (a couple passes of increasing depth).
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #115 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 12:17 PM
Senior Member
 
WannaTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 488
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Brad- thanks for the details! So from your soffit pictures, the white "arches" are 1x2 MDF. Did you custom order these? I was looking at HD, and the thickest they have 3/4" sheets, which I guess could be ripped. But nothing larger.

I think I will be doing something similar.

Also, did the contractors build your stage on top of a sheet of plywood? It looks like plywood, 2x6, then plywood top (I'm trying to see how it came out to be 8"). Is riser 2x12?
WannaTheater is offline  
post #116 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 12:50 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Chiahead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Parker Colorado
Posts: 1,618
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
At HD, check in the section where they have moulding and boards like 3" read oak. They usually have MDF in strips over there, not in the 4' x 8' sheets. I think the MDF strips are usually painted white also.

Michael

PSN: Chiahead
Chiahead's Man Cave - Indexed
Loganed on 8/29/2008
Chiahead is offline  
post #117 of 956 Old 09-13-2010, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaTheater View Post

Brad- thanks for the details! So from your soffit pictures, the white "arches" are 1x2 MDF. Did you custom order these? I was looking at HD, and the thickest they have 3/4" sheets, which I guess could be ripped. But nothing larger.

I think I will be doing something similar.

Also, did the contractors build your stage on top of a sheet of plywood? It looks like plywood, 2x6, then plywood top (I'm trying to see how it came out to be 8"). Is riser 2x12?

Like Chia mentioned, they are pre-primed MDF 1x2s, and I found them at HD in the trim section.

Post #12 has pictures of the riser and stage as they were being constructed:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post18678279

The riser has a 12" finish height, it has pressure treated 2x4s running crosswise and also cut to follow the curve of the face, then 2x10s ripped down a little, then 2x 3/4" plywood on top.

The stage is similar, but 2x6s framing it inside, filled with plastic sheet / sand, and topped with a single layer of 3/4" plywood. (1 1/2" + 5 1/2" + 3/4" = 7 3/4" - maybe they were 2x8s ripped down to 5 3/4"?)
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #118 of 956 Old 09-27-2010, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Some progress on the THT:



...but not much on the theater. Needed a break from working on a ladder (soffits). And want to fire up some real bass in the room to see if any of the lights rattle before I close off the front soffit (could still get at the lights, but would be a hassle).
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #119 of 956 Old 10-14-2010, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 57
Keeping the thread away from the thread eater - here's a few pics of my finished THT LP:









I also put in a little work on the soffits last week or so, but not really pic worthy at this point.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #120 of 956 Old 10-20-2010, 04:50 PM
Senior Member
 
IwantmyTHX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Greater Metropolatin Los Angeles area Suburb
Posts: 463
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Wife: Where did that black box come from?
Me: nowhere, I made it.
Wife: well what's it for?
Me: nothing
Wife: what does it do?
Me: nothing
Wife: then why do we need it?
Me: because I made it.
Hehehehe

"Pure-Direct" is my friend
Now where is the "LIVE" button?
IwantmyTHX is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Tags
Pioneer Sc27 Sc 27 Sc 27 Elite 7 1 Channel Digital Home Theater Thx Receiver , Playstation 3 160gb System , Xbox 360 250gb Console With Kinect
Gear in this thread - 160gb by PriceGrabber.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off