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post #1 of 26 Old 06-16-2010, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I guess it is my turn to start a HT design/build thread. We built our house this past fall/winter, and set aside space for an HT. We will get our final inspection on the house by the end of June, and then I get to start on the theater. Hopefully the planning stage will be done by then. With the budget overages on the house, this has quickly become a 95% DIY project, so thanks in advance to anyone who jumps in with ideas/info/answers.

The room is in our basement, and the rough framed dimensions are 21' 4 L x 12' 11 W x 9' H. Basic room plan is:

Decouple walls and ceiling with clips and channel.
Insulation, DD+GG.
AT Screen (SeymourAV DIY) 110 - 120 wide. (Currently going back and forth between scope and 16:9).
Stage.
2 rows of seating (style tbd). 2nd row on riser.
Leaning toward fabric covered walls instead of paint.
Can lights in soffit, sconces on walls/columns.
Screen accent lights.
Star ceiling (Future)

Planned Equipment:

Projector - Panasonic PT-AE4000U.
Blu-Ray - Sony BDP-N460. (have)
HD Cable Receiver/DVR - whatever Mediacom gives me at that time.
AVR - Sony STR-DA3500ES.
Power Conditioner - APC H10BLK.
Speakers - Axiom Epic 50-350 (7.1).
Remote - Logitech Harmony 900. (have)
Lighting Controller - Lutron Grafik Eye 3106 (have).
Equipment Rack will be outside of theater in utility area.

Here is the cropped portion of our floor plan that shows the theater area along with part of the basement.



Here are my ideas for two possible layouts for the room.





The challenge here is the angled corner side of the room. Initially, my thought was to have that side be the screen wall so the visible theater would be rectangular. However, with the position of the door, I think it makes better sense to flip my original thought and have the screen opposite of the angled corners (for easier entry). One of those angles is load bearing, so I won't be changing that out. There are also a couple of cleanouts to deal with on that wall.

I would appreciate some feedback on what you think the pro's and con's of each layout are with respect to the angled corners (acoustics, aesthetics, other). I should be able to finish cleaning out that room and get some pictures this weekend. Thanks in advance for your input!!
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post #2 of 26 Old 06-16-2010, 02:13 PM
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I think they both look like good options.

I think your door placement is centered enough to make either option viable. I like option two because it incorporates the angles. It adds visual interest and from what i understand a room that isn't perfectly square or rectangle is acoustically easier to treat.

The only thing i see that i dont like, which may not actually be an issue, is the door swings into the AV rack, so if you come out of the theater to do something at the AV rack you half to walk around the door or possibly even close it to get full access to your rack. Just a thought.

Something else to consider with choosing the layout is the AV rack is definitely closer to one side than the other, so depending on what layout you choose you'll either have longer runs to your projector or longer runs to your mains/center/sub. May not be a deal breaker for either layout, but just something else to consider.

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post #3 of 26 Old 06-16-2010, 02:14 PM
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Just a quick comment or two. Looks good, BTW. The walls would be decoupled via framing, and the ceiling uses the clips.

Also, could you get a second door so that when both doors are closed you'd have an air lock?

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post #4 of 26 Old 06-16-2010, 03:13 PM
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Free advice ...

Plan 1 is better. You're taking floor space away from things that don't care as opposed to people who'd prefer not to be cramped.

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post #5 of 26 Old 06-16-2010, 03:40 PM
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You might want to test your subwoofer in the position you have shown at a very early point in the project. Although the location makes everything tidy, it may not be optimal and it is possible that it could be in a null area, essentially nullifying the subs effect.
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post #6 of 26 Old 06-16-2010, 09:17 PM
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Option 1. The dimensions and layout for my HT2.0, (new build house) is very similar to yours. My original design was close to your Option 2, but changed it to Option 1 to keep the HDMI cable to 25ft or less in order to use a series 2 cable.

If this is not a concern, then either one would work, all depends where you prefer your tri-traps.
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post #7 of 26 Old 06-16-2010, 10:45 PM
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Option 1 looks like the best layout to me.
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post #8 of 26 Old 06-17-2010, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the feedback.

Quote:


The only thing i see that i dont like, which may not actually be an issue, is the door swings into the AV rack, so if you come out of the theater to do something at the AV rack you half to walk around the door or possibly even close it to get full access to your rack. Just a thought.

Good catch. I hadn't given that part much thought yet. Will keep that in mind. BTW, love how your wood floors turned out!

Quote:


Just a quick comment or two. Looks good, BTW. The walls would be decoupled via framing, and the ceiling uses the clips.

Also, could you get a second door so that when both doors are closed you'd have an air lock?

Thanks Ted. The framing is already done (was done when the house was built). Are you suggesting to re-do the framing to staggered studs or double wall? With the room as narrow as it is, I am trying to keep as much width as possible. That's why I thought I would do channel on the walls. Perhaps I have my terminology wrong.

The airlock suggestion is interesting. I was planning on a solid door, adding mass and making sure it seals well with an automatic door bottom seal. How much room do you need for the airlock? I'm picturing a hotel adjoining room doors type of setup. Is that what you are talking about?

Quote:


Plan 1 is better. You're taking floor space away from things that don't care as opposed to people who'd prefer not to be cramped.

Thanks Dennis. I appreciate your comments. That is probably the way I will go. Just wanted to make sure there would be enough entry room without it being too cramped.

Quote:


You might want to test your subwoofer in the position you have shown at a very early point in the project. Although the location makes everything tidy, it may not be optimal and it is possible that it could be in a null area, essentially nullifying the subs effect.

Thanks Cappy. I will definitely test before final placement. Had to put it somewhere in the layout, and that seemed like a good spot to remind me that I have one Any thoughts on the best placement for the side surrounds with two rows of seating?

Thanks again everyone. I will post some pics of the actual space in the next day or so.
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post #9 of 26 Old 06-17-2010, 09:42 AM
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Clips and channel on the wall will work to decouple if wall framing is already done.

The airlock would only be perhaps 3" deep, although more is better.

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post #10 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I have an opportunity to get a large quantity of 3" EPS (extruded polystyrene) insulation for free. Wasn't planning on using any of it, but since this just fell into my lap, I want to see if there might be any use for it. What would be a good use (if any) for 3" EPS in an HT?
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post #11 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 09:58 AM
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Not in the walls and ceiling....

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post #12 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 10:18 AM
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post #13 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Maybe a beer cooler?

Winner!
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post #14 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Not in the walls and ceiling....

That's what I thought. Thanks Ted.
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post #15 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Another question for Ted or anyone. I know that 5/8 dd+gg is better than 1/2 dd+gg, but what is the actual db difference?
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post #16 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 12:18 PM
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Depends on the frequency in question, the amount of flanking, the overal constructon assembly being considered.

Short answer, it's much much better

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post #17 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. Reason I ask is I have sufficient quantity of American Gypsum Fiberlock Type C available to me at no cost that would dd the entire space. It is 1/2 instead of 5/8, so that's why I was wondering. Doing a cost benefit analysis to see if the additional 1/4 inch is worth the cost.
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post #18 of 26 Old 06-18-2010, 12:45 PM
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Use three layers? The big improvement is in the LF isolation. It's definately worth it.

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post #19 of 26 Old 06-21-2010, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the room mostly cleaned out except for some leftover insulation from the house build, and some lumber that I can re-use. I would appreciate any additional feedback based on these pics, or let me know if you want to see anything specific.

Entry. Equipment rack will be on the right wall.


Wall w/ angled corners (most likely the screen wall). Note the cleanout in the right corner.


Back wall. Soffit will need to come out about 4' from the back wall.


Back corner where the return is. What is the best way to deal with that return? Leave it as duct board, or change to something else?


Ceiling


Anything jump out at you? I'm at 90% that I will go with option 1 for the layout, unless there is something in these pics that shows I should flip the room to option 2.
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post #20 of 26 Old 08-26-2010, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Things are finally starting to move again since the kids are back in school. I posted this question in the speakers forum, but didn't get a response so I'll try here.

The design phase is nearing its end, and my original choice for speakers may not be the best solution. Since the Axiom drivers are white they may show through the AT screen. I did some looking around and found the HSU Enthusiast 2 package. However, for my room bipole/dipole surrounds will work the best (per DE). So now I am thinking the HSU HB-1 MK2 for the L/R, HC-1 MK2 Center and VTF-2 MK3 Sub. For the surrounds I am looking at Emotiva ERD-1 or Klipsh S-10, VS-14 or RS-41 II.

I have no doubts that all these speakers can produce great sound on their own. I have read enough reviews from multiple sites to convince me of that. My biggest concern is which surrounds will match best with the HSU fronts and sub. Anyone have any thoughts on this, or am I over thinking? Other suggestions are appreciated. Basically trying to keep the speaker budget between $1500-$2000.

Thanks!
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post #21 of 26 Old 08-26-2010, 10:08 AM
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You might look at the Episode brand speakers as well. They offer a great theater package. Just a suggestion
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post #22 of 26 Old 08-26-2010, 10:19 AM
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Option 1 for layout. You can add your bass absorption easily and no one will see it if you are creating a false wall. I believe having those angles in the rear of the theater will throw off your acoustics and mainly your surrounds. Easier to treat the room with option 1 IMO.

If you get 1/2" for nothing use 3 layers with gg. That will outdo 2 layers of 5/8". I think the clips and rails Ted sells can take up to 6 layers of weight.

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post #23 of 26 Old 08-26-2010, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Adam. Option 1 is the winner and the final design is being worked on now.

Unfortunately the DW ship has sailed. I was too nervous about the weight of 3 layers of DW so I passed on it. Hopefully I don't kick myself later.

BTW, been following your thread for a while. Looks great!
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post #24 of 26 Old 08-26-2010, 02:18 PM
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Thank you. I hope I can wrap it up soon. My wife is riding me like a pony at the zoo to get this thing done

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post #25 of 26 Old 01-14-2011, 05:34 AM
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GWRC, what happened to your thread? Any updates?
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post #26 of 26 Old 01-14-2011, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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The items on the "honey do" list got re-ordered and prioritized... Been working on built-ins around the fireplace upstairs. I have a drop-zone by the back door and a locker/storage area in the garage to build next. Then I can move on to the bar and theater. I hope to get started sometime in the spring.

On the upside, I did get the design finalized. I took advantage of the theater layout service that is stickied at the top of this forum. It was quick and easy. Dennis did a great job (as if there was another option). Now I just have to use that plan before the paper I printed it on disintegrates...
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