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post #271 of 1242 Old 11-05-2010, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Beemer, thanks for your suggestions. I was thinking that when I'm in HD in a bit, I'll be checking out the hardware section for anchors. One of them will work. If it expands at all past the steel, it will not be coming out!

Epoxy and cross drilling would work too, but an anchor will be much simpler.

I'm just resting my shoulders a bit before continuing.

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post #272 of 1242 Old 11-05-2010, 03:30 PM
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Any chance that you can chisel out the wood filler beam just large enough to slip a nut in place for you to get a few bolt and nuts in?

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post #273 of 1242 Old 11-05-2010, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Richard: not a bad idea if I could be bothered! Anchors will do fine. These bolts are not holding the beam up. They are just there to prevent the support from being knocked out from under the beam. They are mostly for shear which I could accomplish by pins if I wanted....at least that is my understanding unless someone tells me otherwise.

Joist hangers are done!



I can't tell you how exhausting this was. I have had my arms over my head for days now! I'll take out the temp walls tomorrow after swapping the bolts out and getting up the nerve.

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post #274 of 1242 Old 11-05-2010, 07:37 PM
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It is amazing how only a few inches makes a difference.... Looking good!

I would say you are right as far as securing the posts to the beam; a pin would probably do the trick. Of course you would need to secure the pin somehow, so you might as well go with the expanding anchor.

On that note, how are you securing the posts to the floor?

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post #275 of 1242 Old 11-05-2010, 08:51 PM
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Do you have a welder?
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post #276 of 1242 Old 11-06-2010, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Beemer: Right, my biggest concern is for the top bolts to fall out. Some of them are that loose. I don't intend on body slamming the posts in the mean time, so it should be fine.

I don't know if any of you have tried to move a support while it is supporting a house, but it won't budge...even without top and bottom bolts! When I was really cranking on the screws to lift the beam flush with the subfloor, the posts were not rotating. I always gave the posts some test pushes to see how stable they were and they never moved except if the floor was uneven. The bolts help with that issue too -- the post won't rotate if the support is not flat on the floor.

The bottom is secured with Tapcons.

Tedd: I do have a welder. It probably would have taken less time to weld it, but I wanted the ability to remove the post without the use of a grinder. I'm not exactly sure why.

Oh, also the support that I took out that was under the old beam was secured with two nails at the top. Ha ha!

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Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #277 of 1242 Old 11-06-2010, 07:00 AM
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I'm sure it will be fine, just don't have a square dance upstairs until everything is secure

I remember reading about your tapcon woes now! They can be a pain sometimes....

Now don't get mad, I know you slaved over all those holes in your beam but I would weld a couple beads on each post and forget about it..... Unless you're planning on taking the beam with you when you move

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post #278 of 1242 Old 11-06-2010, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemer533 View Post

I would weld a couple beads on each post and forget about it..... Unless you're planning on taking the beam with you when you move

I agree. Especially since you are planning on a rotary in there.


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post #279 of 1242 Old 11-07-2010, 01:50 PM
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Is the sheetrock up yet?

Sorry, I can't work on my own house for a while, so I'm just making sure somebody else is

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post #280 of 1242 Old 11-07-2010, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I took one temp wall down today. The new beam didn't sag at all.

I was doing a bit of baby room work. Yesterday was cleaning in prep for a pizza party we threw. We made some amazing pizzas on bricks in my oven on the clean cycle!

Drywall will be going up hopefully sooner rather than later...but it will likely be a couple of weeks.

I found out that since the beam is about .75" lower than the joist, I will be able to mount the whisperclips directly to the joist as the clip plus the hat channel is about 1.375", which gives the drywall about .5" clearance from the beam. That will save me some time.

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post #281 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh, and I realize drywall in a couple of weeks is unrealistic.... It is possible, but not probable.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #282 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Oh, and I realize drywall in a couple of weeks is unrealistic.... It is possible, but not probable.

I hate drywall...sell some body parts and hire it done...

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post #283 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

We made some amazing pizzas on bricks in my oven on the clean cycle!

I am SO doing that.

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post #284 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't mind drywall at all. I have a collated screw gun that is awesome. I also bought a drywall lift for the ceiling. I don't trust someone to know how to do the clips/dd/gg correctly....since none of them have done that before. I am also not going to mud the walls since I'll have fabric panels on them. I'm debating fabric on the ceiling or at least near the screen -- flat black otherwise and that won't show any minor mistakes.

For pizza, buy "unglazed half height fire bricks" at a specialty brick place. I bought 8 of them for <$10. I disabled my self clean latch so it won't lock the door. I took out just two screws. Check out pizzamaking.com and their forums for people just as obsessed about pizza making as avsforum is for avs junkies! Recommended. I used this recipe for dough and it works great: http://pizzamaking.com/lehmann_nystyle.php I weighed out all the ingredients on a digital scale, put them on the dough setting in a bread machine, put them in the fridge overnight, and it was great. You need to make a peel out of 1/4" ply and you are ready to make great pizzas. I could go on for a bit more. I love to cook and pizzas are one of the world's perfect foods.

Under no circumstances are you to disable your self clean lock. If you do what Andreas suggests, you WILL burn your house down.

In other words, don't sue me for doing what I do.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
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post #285 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I don't mind drywall at all. I have a collated screw gun that is awesome. I also bought a drywall lift for the ceiling. I don't trust someone to know how to do the clips/dd/gg correctly....since none of them have done that before. I am also not going to mud the walls since I'll have fabric panels on them. I'm debating fabric on the ceiling or at least near the screen -- flat black otherwise and that won't show any minor mistakes.

For pizza, buy "unglazed half height fire bricks" at a specialty brick place. I bought 8 of them for <$10. I disabled my self clean latch so it won't lock the door. I took out just two screws. Check out pizzamaking.com and their forums for people just as obsessed about pizza making as avsforum is for avs junkies! Recommended. I used this recipe for dough and it works great: http://pizzamaking.com/lehmann_nystyle.php I weighed out all the ingredients on a digital scale, put them on the dough setting in a bread machine, put them in the fridge overnight, and it was great. You need to make a peel out of 1/4" ply and you are ready to make great pizzas. I could go on for a bit more. I love to cook and pizzas are one of the world's perfect foods.

In other words, don't sue me for doing what I do.

Thank you so much! I am so checking all that out. I had aspirations of building a brick pizza oven on my back porch, since it has a chimney back there not being used...but...i think that maybe a tad ambitious.

Whats the advantage to using the cleaning cycle on your oven? Does it just run hotter than just a regular bake or broil?

Any chance you could post a picture of your bricks and peel?

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post #286 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I read about the wood fired brick ovens. They look cool. My wife said NO! I agreed though. You can only use it when the weather is nice and it might not fair so well with freezing in the winter.

I recommend trying out the bricks at the hottest setting in your oven at the very least. You need to use a peel to put the pizza in (build it on there). Then to pull it out, use tongs and the peel. My peel is just a 19" x 36" piece of 1/4" ply with one end sharpened (you don't really even need to do that).

Using the self clean setting allows you to get hotter. That is better for thinner crust pizzas. It can get too hot though so you have to turn the self clean cycle on and off. I bought an IR thermometer to see how hot the bricks were getting. I liked them at about 700 degrees. For thicker pizzas >1/4" crust you will want to cook longer at a lower temp.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #287 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I read about the wood fired brick ovens. They look cool. My wife said NO! I agreed though. You can only use it when the weather is nice and it might not fair so well with freezing in the winter.

I recommend trying out the bricks at the hottest setting in your oven at the very least. You need to use a peel to put the pizza in (build it on there). Then to pull it out, use tongs and the peel. My peel is just a 19" x 36" piece of 1/4" ply with one end sharpened (you don't really even need to do that).

Using the self clean setting allows you to get hotter. That is better for thinner crust pizzas. It can get too hot though so you have to turn the self clean cycle on and off. I bought an IR thermometer to see how hot the bricks were getting. I liked them at about 700 degrees. For thicker pizzas >1/4" crust you will want to cook longer at a lower temp.

pictures...or they dont exist! Just kidding! So what kind of shop is going to have those kinds of bricks...there are a couple masonry stores around...and a patio & fireplace type store.

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post #288 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 08:48 AM
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A very interesting twist on the thread. I'd love to hear more about the bricks also.

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post #289 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 09:19 AM
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A very interesting twist on the thread. I'd love to hear more about the bricks also.

Haha, in the these sort of LOOOONGGGG.....DRAWWWWWNNN out build threads....we need something else to talk about to pass the time.


Just kidding!!! You've been trucking right along lately AM!!!

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post #290 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Funny that there is an interest in making pizza. I will answer any questions you have.

OK, PT: I will take a couple of pics tonight. It is a very simple setup though! This is where I went to get the bricks: http://www.grimmbldg.com/ They have bricks and building supplies. Just call your local place and ask for "unglazed half height fire bricks". It will be the same thing when I call today asking about hat channel. You could also ask the question: "Do the bricks contain any lead? I will be using them to cook on." I did.

BTW: We had one professional chef and two amateurs (me included) designing the pizzas. These are pizzas we made Saturday night - red: (margherita, linguica (portuguese sausage), linguica/onion/red pepper, "pinwheel"-Italian-sausage/onion/something, spinach/something/otherstuff) white: (pear/gorgonzola/onion/pinenut, clams/arugula)

Other pizza tips: canned whole San Marzano tomatoes (don't use the sauce in the can) with garlic blended with a hand mixer for sauce; provalone and mozzarella +/- romano/parm for cheese

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Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #291 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 09:46 AM
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So many good pizza tips! I've always wanted to get into making good home made pizza...but never had a good jumping off point.

My buddy in high school had a wood fired pizza oven in their kitchen...it was incredible. (the house wasnt to shabby either)

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post #292 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 10:33 AM
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Joist hangers are done!

looking good, I'm impressed!
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post #293 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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So many good pizza tips! I've always wanted to get into making good home made pizza...but never had a good jumping off point.

I've tried a number of times and it was never even close as good as our favorite pizza place. With the bricks, I can honestly say we made great pizza. It is also fun to be able to put whatever you want on it and not be charged a couple of bucks per topping. I think next time I have a pizza party, I'll make another pizza peel so that I can be prepping the next pizza while one is cooking.

Quote:


looking good, I'm impressed!

Thanks! I was really happy after pulling down one temp wall. It feels much more open. I can't wait to get the other side down tonight -- I just need 10 minutes. I wanted to do it last night, but we had a birthing class.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #294 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 01:15 PM
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Man, it never even occured to me to use the self clean feature to make pizza! Not that I clean the oven or anything anyways....

I've been making pizza on my grill for years now and I've been pretty happy with the results.

That is pretty cool idea though, I'm going to try it as soon as I get home, especially since there will probably be snow on top of my grill by the time I get back

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post #295 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Beemer: Gas or charcoal grill? Do you put it directly on the grate?

I guess it all depends on what type of pizza you want to make. There are different kinds and different methods.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #296 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 03:07 PM
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AM do you wrap your bricks in tin foil or just cook directly on them? Im really intruiged!

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post #297 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I cook directly on them just like you would with a wood fired oven.

I took down the other temp wall. YES! No sagging of the beam still, so I call that success.

I connected a water pump, and some tubing under the 1st floor. I'm now testing how well the radiant heat will work through to the kitchen tile. Hopefully it will heat fairly well so I can justify putting radiant heat throughout the 1st floor.

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Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #298 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 06:28 PM
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The rotary sub is coming along nicely! But I don't understand how you attached the fins?

Nice job on the house BTW.

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post #299 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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JapanDave: I haven't made the rotary sub yet! I'm trying to at least get some walls first.

Temp walls and support gone. You can see the red radiant heat tubing hanging down. I'm thinking it is not going to work since the floor above isn't getting warm.


As promised: the pizza peel and a new fire brick.



The bricks installed in the oven waiting for pizza.


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Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #300 of 1242 Old 11-08-2010, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
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The rotary sub is coming along nicely! But I don't understand how you attached the fins?

In light of recent posts I think the rotary sub may be referring to a submarine sandwich, something like this perhaps.
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