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post #541 of 1242 Old 12-05-2010, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's the mockup I made. It works pretty well, but not sure if the ball latches have a positive enough closed position to seal two doors. I guess I could always add ball latches or even magnets to keep the doors closed against the force of the seals.


Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #542 of 1242 Old 12-05-2010, 03:53 PM
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looks good to me!


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post #543 of 1242 Old 12-05-2010, 03:56 PM
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I have considered this before. Since you are already looking at magnets. Couldn't magnetic strips like used on a fridge work?

Absent of any locking entirely.
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post #544 of 1242 Old 12-05-2010, 05:20 PM
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I think I might make the outer door a little bigger and get a "little" more than a 90 degree swing.
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post #545 of 1242 Old 12-05-2010, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intricate1 View Post

I have considered this before. Since you are already looking at magnets. Couldn't magnetic strips like used on a fridge work?

Absent of any locking entirely.

That is what my door has, only a lot stronger.

Coming along nicely!

My build thread

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Couldn't pour water out of a boot with instructions on the heel.

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post #546 of 1242 Old 12-05-2010, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Intricate1: Maybe Ted can chime in. There might be something available. I know the seals he sells are specifically for sound isolation. Regular magnetic fridge seals are not meant to keep sound in.

Big: The outer door hinge will be in the corner of the lobby, so in my situation I don't think I need more than 90 degrees, but I see your point. To get more degrees of opening, I would either need to make the outer door bigger or the inner door smaller. The outer door is already 36" wide and the inner is 33". The clear opening is about 31", which is fine for me since my stairway to the basement is only 28" wide.

JapanDave: Where did you get your seals? Were they part of the door itself or a separate purchase?

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #547 of 1242 Old 12-05-2010, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I think I might make the outer door a little bigger and get a "little" more than a 90 degree swing.

FYI - just to document a solution. You do not seem to need it though.

I mentioned this above. Here is a picture. These hinges are not too expensive.


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post #548 of 1242 Old 12-05-2010, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Intricate1: Maybe Ted can chime in. There might be something available. I know the seals he sells are specifically for sound isolation. Regular magnetic fridge seals are not meant to keep sound in.

Big: The outer door hinge will be in the corner of the lobby, so in my situation I don't think I need more than 90 degrees, but I see your point. To get more degrees of opening, I would either need to make the outer door bigger or the inner door smaller. The outer door is already 36" wide and the inner is 33". The clear opening is about 31", which is fine for me since my stairway to the basement is only 28" wide.

JapanDave: Where did you get your seals? Were they part of the door itself or a separate purchase?

I had the door made for me. Have a look at this site Magnetic door gaskets all you have to do is tell them the size and they should make a gasket up for you.

My build thread

My 8 x RE XXX 18" Subwoofers, IB build
Couldn't pour water out of a boot with instructions on the heel.

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post #549 of 1242 Old 12-06-2010, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter
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GRBoomer: I looked at HD, but didn't find those hinges. I barely could find the ball latches bc they were in another ailse than all of the other locksets. Looks like a bunch of the hinge would be visible on the hinge-side wall.

Just thought I'd mention that the smaller inner door would also need to be shorter so that it could clear the larger outer door's top stops.

JapanDave: Thanks for the link. 30-33db sound reduction doesn't sound like a lot, but then again I don't know what the others are rated. Those seals would pull the door closed vs compressable seals that would pust the door open. That is a nice feature.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #550 of 1242 Old 12-06-2010, 08:14 AM
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:subscribed:

Great hinges Boomer! It's just the ticket for a pretty much flush door.
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post #551 of 1242 Old 12-06-2010, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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I talked to Ted today on the phone regarding the noisy clips and channel. He said it would all be good once I have the second layer of damped drywall on. Apparently it is pretty typical for the system to make some noise before it is complete. I was worried I might have to take the drywall down and do some remedial work.

Also, I am sure you will all be excited to hear I have another pizza party coming up in another week and a half. I will try to remember to take some pizza pics. I have suggested we try some bruschetta and (cheesy?) garlic bread since the bricks will be hot anyway.

Oh, and I put up a few more pieces of drywall before work.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #552 of 1242 Old 12-06-2010, 09:01 AM
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Do you have any boring old pictures of your door setup or just the flash based thing you posted earlier?
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post #553 of 1242 Old 12-06-2010, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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No pics bc this is a work in progress. It is really very simple with two hinges and two ball latches.

I'm looking at http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/produ...oducts_id=2225 for creating a secure, locked door without needing a mechanical connection from the other door. Thanks for the idea GRBoomer! ...not sure if I want the touch switch or not yet, but that is a good idea too. I have a couple of ideas.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #554 of 1242 Old 12-06-2010, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm thinking that for the door handles that I make, I would hinge them at the top like:


...except I would have a fancier, funkier handle. Then I could connect a micro switch so that the lock stays energized (locked) when pushing the doors closed (doors swing OUT of the HT) with the outside handle *or* when pulling the doors closed with the inside handle. Then when you push from the inside or pull from the outside handle, the power will be interrupted and the lock will open.

At least that is the current idea I'm leaning toward.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #555 of 1242 Old 12-06-2010, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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This may be an option too and only $27. I like "industrial" style. I may not even change the handle as the door will be a bit crazy on the non-HT side. You'll see!



http://www.showerdoordirect.com/DL21...2IZAKO?ie=UTF8

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
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post #556 of 1242 Old 12-07-2010, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I put in a couple of hours before work this am. I'm finished with the wall drywall except for 3 small pieces around the stairs landing. I'll have those done tonight along with some ceiling drywall.

I received my frame hangers yesterday ( http://www.unitedmfrs.com/cart/detail.cfm?item=5634 ), but some of them came out of the tube during shipping because they put only one piece of tape on each end. Grrr. I need to call them today.

I also have STILL not received my LED RGB strips. I have had some contact by email with the seller with not much satisfaction. I'll likely dispute the transaction with eBay if I don't get them tonight. Double Grrr.

No more thoughts on the doors? I might order those handles and the electric strike soon so I can fully sound proof the room. Maybe I'll need to get going on the dead vents around the same time so I don't suffocate....

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
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post #557 of 1242 Old 12-07-2010, 09:00 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll be getting more of the frame mounts sent to me for free.

It looks like the LEDs are at the post office, so I'll be picking them up tonight!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #558 of 1242 Old 12-07-2010, 12:02 PM
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post some pics of those LEDs also dont suffocate in that air tight room

Matt

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post #559 of 1242 Old 12-07-2010, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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....need....air.

Just kidding!

I think these new RGB LEDs are pretty awesome. I am uploading a couple of videos as I type this. I figure 30 feet is roughly the same light output as a 50 watt bulb. The difference is that the LEDs can be pointed in a direction. They are plenty bright to put over a seating area and they will not shine directly on the screen. Beats canned lighting if you figure they are only .1" thick and don't need a huge hole (with backer box) cut in the drywall.

There are 8 different lighting levels. I wonder if the dimmest setting would be too bright for some...? Probably not if your walls were dark and depending on how many you had running.

Oh, and they also put out a bunch of nice colors and have an IR remote. Everything you need is included (power supply, controller, remote and lights).

I am going to order at least a couple more sets.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #560 of 1242 Old 12-07-2010, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I took a couple of videos so you get an idea how they perform.





Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #561 of 1242 Old 12-08-2010, 05:36 AM
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Those LEDs are hella bright. Thanks for showing them off! Do you happen to know what the wattage per foot is? I may switch out all my rope light with those eventually for an added coolness in the room...but my GE needs a minimum of 15watts per zone.

You seem pretty pleased with your purchase, im looking forward to seeing the effect on the room once they're up. With the right fabric and placement you could easily change the whole color of your room with those. Its gonna be so cool! You may know what you're doing after all....

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post #562 of 1242 Old 12-08-2010, 07:16 AM
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+1.

Neat build. I'll be following along.

One thing that scares me about fly-by-night LED lights is their longevity. CFL's were supposed to last 10-12 years. I've got about a dozen that lasted a few months. Perhaps some earlier design flaws. I guess if I end up going with LEDs too, I'd pick up a few extra just to make sure if one goes dead I have a backup. A lot of these companies seem to be producing novelty lights and who knows how long they'll be around or producing the same lights. I'd prefer if possible to buy from a n existing reputable lighting manufacturer. But that greatly limits your options to almost none.

Problems could arise if you are trying to soundproof and decide to opt not to build backer boxes because of using smaller leds. If down the road you decide to go back to standard lighting, it might be impossible.

Just food for thought.
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post #563 of 1242 Old 12-08-2010, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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PT: I think it is about 1.5-2 W/ft....although less when dimmed. I haven't verified it bc my multitester needs new batteries and they are those stupid flat lithium type. The LEDs are pretty darn bright and they whole room changes color with them. It should be a nice effect since I'm going with a black/grey/white color scheme.

Welcome to the thread Mario! These 5050 RGB LEDs are being sold by quite a number of companies on eBay and the internet. I'm sure they are all made in the same place. I know what you mean about trying to get something quality. Pretty much all of the LEDs are made in China, so I don't think these will have any less life than most other LEDs. I've bought a bunch of stuff directly from China and have had good success. I guess your concerns are pretty common and that is why most people don't, but often pay quite a bit more for the same goods sold by reputable (US) companies.

I figure if it breaks, I'll buy some more or something newer, cheaper and better. You can probably tell I don't mind to put my own labor into a project and that reduces the cost even more!

I don't think anything is impossible to change after the fact -- maybe more difficult, but not impossible.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #564 of 1242 Old 12-09-2010, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I was feeling a bit under the weather yesterday. Today I feel better and have about 1/3 of the ceiling drywall hung. I'm hoping to get it done today.

I also ordered two more sets of LEDs. I doubt they will come before the New Year, but you never know. I'll have to order fabric for the walls very soon so that doesn't slow me down.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #565 of 1242 Old 12-09-2010, 08:37 AM
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Stuff is getting VERY exciting in this thread. Keep on pluggin away! That baby aint getting any smaller!

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post #566 of 1242 Old 12-09-2010, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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PT: Exciting? Yes, drywall is SO exciting! Luckily I'm almost done hanging it. Mudding is going to seem like a dream comparatively. My arms and shoulders are beat.

I'm 2/3rds done with the ceiling drywall. I have 2.5 hours left of working time today.

That baby *is* getting big. The wife's belly is crazy! ....and she still has 6.5 weeks left.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #567 of 1242 Old 12-09-2010, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Woo hoo! Done hanging all of the drywall!!!

Ok, I haven't done the outside walls or one section I need a DC-04 to do, but still.

I'll be concentrating on mudding the ceiling and fixing up the floor now. Then a little paint on the ceiling and a screen. I also have the window, but I will wait until Sunday when it warms up 20 degrees to 40 degrees. Then I'll likely start moving everything in and do the sound treatments and frames.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #568 of 1242 Old 12-09-2010, 01:40 PM
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Hey hey hey...no excuses! I got your DC-04 clip last night when I got home from work, so tell those shoulders they have a bit more work to do!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #569 of 1242 Old 12-10-2010, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Now I have tendinitis in left forearm! I can't let that stop me either.

I have the room all cleared out now. I have Silensealed the whole room except around the floor. I have started to patch the floor with hydraulic cement while waiting for the ceiling Silenseal to cure. Then I'll mud the ceiling. I also picked up the Rosco Super Duper Black paint.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #570 of 1242 Old 12-10-2010, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's what I'm doing with the floors where there is visible dampness or cracks.

Clean out the crack with a wire brush to remove all the dirt that is wicking the moisture up. You might be able to tell that this is the one high point in the room. I don't know what this was a part of!


Sledge and chisel get rid of the extras.


Area clean and ready for hydraulic cement.


Post cement!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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