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post #721 of 1242 Old 01-10-2011, 05:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I forgot this link: http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/hu...13/134470.html

It has a link to a flicker photo of the first prototype.
It has a link to an article discussing its use in/on a house, crappy photocopied pics, and a bunch more interesting detail.

There is a version with one fan and one vane. I may try that first. That way I don't need each vane to turn in opposite directions.

Matt, I was thinking about using a voice coil to control the vane in the SBG. I'd like to find a suitable driver for it cheap! Anyone have a sub with a damaged cone/surround?

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
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post #722 of 1242 Old 01-10-2011, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I watched Quantum of Solace with a family member yesterday. I hadn't seen it since it was in the theaters (~2.5 years). I love the last two Bond films. They are so much better than all of the others put together. I've demoed the opening scene a few times and it is pretty much deafening on my setup as I run it way over reference (just for short demos). The machine guns shake your gut pretty well. I didn't run it anywhere near that loud yesterday. Anyway, the sound is so amazing on my system and the experience with the huge screen is also, especially when you get sucked into the movie and forget about all of the technology around you. I can't wait to get more treatments up and some serious bass traps to improve it further!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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post #723 of 1242 Old 01-10-2011, 07:52 AM
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+1 on that opening scene. I like that one for demos too as I think it shows off the surround sound well. It doesn't have great dynamics (just plain LOUD), but pretty much runs the gamut of frequencies, and the visual action is very immersive. Oh, and I really want that Aston Martin in my garage one day

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http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #724 of 1242 Old 01-10-2011, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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It is way too loud on my system. I want the room and the occupants to shake, but to do that I have to make them deaf also! I wouldn't mind an Aston Martin either...but for that money, I'll just keep my Rabbit and travel to the places in the movie...

I like the beginning scenes of How to Train your Dragon (until Aster appears) and the beginning of Ironman for sound. The beginning of The Dark Night is great for video and suspense/tension. Damn, there are a lot of good ones once you have a decent room. The best demo is a great movie in its entirety!

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post #725 of 1242 Old 01-10-2011, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I forgot this link: http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/hu...13/134470.html

It has a link to a flicker photo of the first prototype.
It has a link to an article discussing its use in/on a house, crappy photocopied pics, and a bunch more interesting detail.

There is a version with one fan and one vane. I may try that first. That way I don't need each vane to turn in opposite directions.

Matt, I was thinking about using a voice coil to control the vane in the SBG. I'd like to find a suitable driver for it cheap! Anyone have a sub with a damaged cone/surround?

how would u use a voice coil? could you explain the linkage you have in mind.

i may have to copy your design lol

Matt

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post #726 of 1242 Old 01-10-2011, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, there is a shaft to rotate. Attach a lever to it and hook the driver up to the end of the lever. The driver then will rotate the shaft. You just have to match the amount of rotation to the linear displacement with the length of the lever.

If it works, I imagine you won't be the only one copying the design. Mind you, I'm copying Danley's design too!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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post #727 of 1242 Old 01-10-2011, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Well, there is a shaft to rotate. Attach a lever to it and hook the driver up to the end of the lever. The driver then will rotate the shaft. You just have to match the amount of rotation to the linear displacement with the length of the lever.

If it works, I imagine you won't be the only one copying the design. Mind you, I'm copying Danley's design too!

okay yeah, duh, me over thinking things. lol

I'm still thinking of which design I would like to copy the rotary fan or the SBG.

it's a cool project to think about, I am going to be super busy until spring at the earliest though it may be late summer before I can finally tackle this project. I like the SBG because it's an isolated unit and i could just sit it in my room (i.e. the basement) where as the rotary needs it's own space, which means cutting holes in all my nice walls that took forever to put up... lol

Matt

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post #728 of 1242 Old 01-10-2011, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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The SBG still needs a room for the back wave (and a hole in your wall). You can't have both ends in the same room.

I bought a 1500 CFM fan tonight. I think that might be close to the output of 15 x 21" Mal-X drivers at 10hz or 30 of them at 5hz if the calculations are correct! I need to get some plywood to make an enclosure next.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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post #729 of 1242 Old 01-11-2011, 03:04 AM
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Hey Andreas! I just wanted to let you know that I think everything is coming out great! I didn't realize you've made so much progress so soon! It's time for me to plan another trip out there, I see you have more speakers done, I'm excited!

P.S. I didn't see any install pics of the rails or clips for the walls/ceiling, are they a pain to install? That will be my next big step.
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post #730 of 1242 Old 01-11-2011, 05:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Chris! Thanks! I've made a bunch of progress, but the holidays and our social calendar have slowed me down a bunch over the past few weeks. I have a bunch more to do.

The new speakers sound great, if I do say so myself! I'd like to get something for 25hz or 30hz and down so I can (potentially) put more power into the THT while getting response down to DC. I really need to focus on the room more even if it is less exciting.

The clips/channels were really easy to put up. Just make sure you put them up accurately or else they won't be in the right place for the drywall! Use a drywall lift too.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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post #731 of 1242 Old 01-11-2011, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

The SBG still needs a room for the back wave (and a hole in your wall). You can't have both ends in the same room.

I bought a 1500 CFM fan tonight. I think that might be close to the output of 15 x 21" Mal-X drivers at 10hz or 30 of them at 5hz if the calculations are correct! I need to get some plywood to make an enclosure next.

hmmmm.... maybe I will be waiting till we start construction of our new house and dedicated theater before i get to enjoy an SBG or rotary....

The problem is that I don't have a dedicated theater space. I could if I threw out my studio. which ain't gonna happen.

what kind of dB does that translate into? how are you converting driver size and xmax into cfm?

Matt

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post #732 of 1242 Old 01-11-2011, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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If you take a look at the Rotary DIY thread on the DIY speaker forum you'll see the calcs mentioned....although not by me. I will be doing a test to see if I can hear a few hz with the fan I have once I build the enclosure.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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post #733 of 1242 Old 01-11-2011, 12:09 PM
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cool!

"The main reason Santa is so jolly is because he knows where all the bad girls live." - George Carlin
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post #734 of 1242 Old 01-12-2011, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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My calcs say 112db for 0-25 hz for a 1500 cfm fan, but who knows until someone tries it. That is apparently equivalent to a TRW-17 rotary sub. I have no idea what db I'm aiming for, but I can always add another fan or upgrade the fan for more output.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
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post #735 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 03:29 AM - Thread Starter
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My wife and I watched Despicable Me last night. This is a movie kids and adults can enjoy. It made me laugh out loud in parts because of the absurdity. It also has surprisingly good LFE! I loved Carell's accent.

I woke up early this am and finally finished the last piece of drywall at the door opening. I also GG'ed the window hatch.

I'd like to get some ply for the door and the SBG today, but my trailer is snowed in.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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post #736 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 07:21 AM
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I watch that last night too Highly entertaining!
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post #737 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

My wife and I watched Despicable Me last night. This is a movie kids and adults can enjoy. It made me laugh out loud in parts because of the absurdity. It also has surprisingly good LFE! I loved Carell's accent.

I woke up early this am and finally finished the last piece of drywall at the door opening. I also GG'ed the window hatch.

I'd like to get some ply for the door and the SBG today, but my trailer is snowed in.

What's next up on your list?

Matt

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post #738 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I have a few baby related things... I made a fabric frame for the front wall with 1x2s, but I think I'm going to redo it with ply since it will be straighter. Really, I need plywood! I also need to try to make a bit more room in the rest of the basement so I can frame it out.

I need to come up with a plan...

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post #739 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 10:40 AM
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You're going to use ply because you think the 1x2 will warp? Have you thought about steel? Or OSB (It looks like ply to me but it's 1/3rd the price).
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post #740 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I have many 1x2s already. I picked out what I thought were the straightest, but they ended up being too twisted after I put them together in a frame. I think Tony in his thread recently used two layers of 1/4" ply for frames. That looks like a good way to go for a few of my frames that need to be thin.

OSB is not very strong when you rip 2" widths of it. Steel is rather expensive (much more than ply!) and I'd have to go to a specialty distributor for >6' lengths. I like steel or aluminum otherwise.

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post #741 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 12:08 PM
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Andreas, regarding this dialog, you're discussing building the screen wall?

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post #742 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Ted, yes.

I am making the corners of the room beveled for bass traps and my fronts angled inwards. (I really need to take some pics of the little I have done over the last few weeks.) I need frames for the front corners and also frames for screen masking. The screen side masks will mounted on drawer slides for adjustability. The top will be fixed and the bottom will also be adjustable.

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post #743 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I have many 1x2s already. I picked out what I thought were the straightest, but they ended up being too twisted after I put them together in a frame. I think Tony in his thread recently used two layers of 1/4" ply for frames. That looks like a good way to go for a few of my frames that need to be thin.

OSB is not very strong when you rip 2" widths of it. Steel is rather expensive (much more than ply!) and I'd have to go to a specialty distributor for >6' lengths. I like steel or aluminum otherwise.

I'm not really sure the functional difference between OSB and ply. They "feel" the same to me when I handle the 4x8 sheets in the hardware store. I've googled it, but nothing really tells me the difference. Is there a difference with similar thickness?

You can get a 1-5/8" steel stud (roughly square) for $3 at Home Depot. A 10' span is like $3.50. I don't know why 6' is your magic number but I'm sure it's because of the space you're working. You'd have similar waste to ply. But that makes a frame in steel ~$12 while your ply is something like $3. Good savings! I think you just saved me some loot.
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post #744 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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OSB is made of chips and is much less strong, especially when you rip it. Ply will bend quite far and not break...not true with OSB.

I want .5" thick or less for clearance, not 1.5" thick steel stud. I need overlapping frames for screen masking.

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post #745 of 1242 Old 01-13-2011, 12:44 PM
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So what kind of ply will you pick?
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post #746 of 1242 Old 01-14-2011, 03:42 AM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking 1/4" with two layers so I could overlap on the corners for an easy, secure joint. I may also try 1/2" or 3/4" and cut off half the depth on each joining board's corner (too lazy to look up the proper name for the joint -- lap?).

So, it's my 40th today. I'm thinking I might go get some ply cut so I can fit it in my car and try to make a SBG. I'm giving myself permission to do something fun. If I can find the camera's battery charger, I'll also put up some pics.

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post #747 of 1242 Old 01-14-2011, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I have wood. Now I need to start screwing.

My Crown XTI died. I looked on their website and apparently this is a known issue, so hopefully I can get it taken care of gratis.

Here are some pics:

Was trying to get a pic of the speakers. The lights are on in the pic, so image is not the best.


Back of the room with the surrounds. Note bean bag in front.


Front speakers mounted and super bean bag in foreground.

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post #748 of 1242 Old 01-14-2011, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Curious?


A box?


A mighty fine box.

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post #749 of 1242 Old 01-14-2011, 08:23 AM
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The way you mounted your screen, is that standard or did you make that yourself?
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post #750 of 1242 Old 01-14-2011, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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It is my birthday and I don't have to answer any questions that are already answered in this same thread. Look it up, it is in the user's FAQ.

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