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post #991 of 1242 Old 12-21-2011, 08:58 AM
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We ran an intercom into the theater. At least, we ran the wiring for it but haven't actually gotten around to installing the unit yet. It falls under the healthcare and not the theater budget. Reduced stress levels and vocal cord damage for the win.
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post #992 of 1242 Old 12-21-2011, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Are you just going to put the intercom in the floor above? ...or in other locations too? Our bedroom is on the 2nd floor (2 floors up) and I'm wondering if and how we would put an intercom there too.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #993 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 01:37 AM
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Hey there Andreas,
I have followed your thread for a while and only now do I kinda understand what you are trying to build after seeing the youtube link. Looks really really interesting. Unfortunately, having a commercial unit is way beyond my price range. Hope yours turns out as effective. Cost of installation is massive. The cost of the device is not beyond belief but spending 25K including installation ..... OUCH!

Follow my thread here
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post #994 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 06:35 AM - Thread Starter
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You don't have to have it installed. You can do that yourself. Still, that is still $17K or so for the sub itself. I'm pretty sure the installation comes with EQing and a bunch of other expertise related to the unique device.

I'm curious as to how well this thing will perform. I've done a few different calculations and I really have no idea what kind of output I will get.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #995 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 07:00 AM
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For now it's just the theater and kitchen. But I do intend to drop lines into all of the bedrooms and maybe another into the basement. There are wireless versions to make the install easier. I made the mistake of not wiring for an intercom before the basement of finished, but luckily the unfinished hot water heater room is right below the kitchen, has a shared wall with the theater and the basement, and has a conduit running into the attic. That should take care of all the rooms I need.
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post #996 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks sclldkjkj3304995.l.. I'm am in negotiations with my wife as to what I will put in. Wireless would be easy, but I think I could swing a wired version also at this point.

Because it is Christmas coming up, you get three views of where I'm at. I have the driver mounts and the bearing mounts tack welded to the frame. The bare part of the shaft will be where the linkages and fan go.




Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #997 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 02:10 PM
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Ok, I'm getting scared.
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post #998 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Ok, I'm getting scared.

Scared? Too beefy?!??

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #999 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Ha ha. You're welcome for the link, but you deserved it!

There is a lot of debate about <20hz. Here is my take on it from what I have read and it is FREE OPINIONATED ADVICE. It is worth every penny! Yes, you can hear <20hz. If you have sufficient volume, you'll hear 15hz and probably even 10hz. The thing is that very few systems will play loud enough to play 10hz. Not only do you need more decibels to hear low frequencies, it become exponentially more difficult to play at the same decibels as higher frequencies.

At some frequency, I agree that you switch from hearing to feeling. Mind you that you can feel 50hz quite well and it gives you that chest "thump". The ULF stuff still adds something to the experience. From what I have read about other's experience of the Thigpen rotary sub is that they certainly do know when it is turned on and off.

I like to tell people that ULF gives a sense of dread. It does not exist in nature unless something really bad is about to happen like an earthquake or volcanic eruption. Actually, that is not true...it occurs it a lot of stuff from slamming a door to any instantaneous sound like the plucking of a string.

Now, whether it is worth $25k....that depends on how much money you have and your priorities....like a LOT of what is on these forums. A $1000 projector??? That is CRAZY. I just bought a perfectly good 45" TV at Walmart for $300. These people will buy a $30K car to commute in. I don't think the rotary sub is worth $25K and that is why I'm building one. If I didn't want to build something so crazy, I'd put in $1000 of IB subs or $5k of sealed subs and call it a day and have an amazing system.

....but the rotary sub is the "ultimate" and so I would like to try it. I think it will only cost me around $500 with the driver that Penngray donated to the project.

Couldnt agree more.

AWESOME thread!
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post #1000 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks KW!

I bolted the driver on tonight. I'm thinking in about another week I'll be able to put some power to the driver and take it for a spin....without the fan blades. Don't hold me to it though!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1001 of 1242 Old 12-22-2011, 08:20 PM
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Man that is looking very nice. I am getting excited to see this thing in action. I still am impressed at how solid it looks.

Looking forward to seeing this all come together.

Regards,


RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
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post #1002 of 1242 Old 12-27-2011, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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No progress on the rotary due to the holidays. I could do some work now, but feel a little sick.

One good thing is that my wife agreed to a PJ upgrade for my birthday which is in the middle of January. Nice!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1003 of 1242 Old 01-03-2012, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh man, I'm still a little bit under the weather. Not enough to feel crappy, but enough to continue on my Breaking Bad marathon. Yes, that is a great way to get stuff done.

I did make two frames for the front wall masking before running out of ply. I may do a bit more work on that today.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1004 of 1242 Old 01-06-2012, 09:23 AM
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Hope your feeling better!

Matt

"The main reason Santa is so jolly is because he knows where all the bad girls live." - George Carlin
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post #1005 of 1242 Old 01-06-2012, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I am feeling better, thanks Matt.

I did some metal cutting, drilling and welding today. It has something to do with a spinny thing that makes noise. I moved it inside and I'll see if I can assemble it in situ. I haven't made blades yet, but I think it is done other than that (plus assembly, a motor, a VFD, etc.), but we'll see.

I would have done more work today, but the baby skipped her afternoon nap and I wanted to pull my hair out.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1006 of 1242 Old 01-06-2012, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh, and I set myself on fire while welding. I know there is a requirement for blood on an HT build, but I think there should be extra points for fire. Opinions, please.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1007 of 1242 Old 01-06-2012, 02:36 PM
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Oh man FIRE!?! You do get extra points for fire, DOUBLE points for setting YOURSELF on fire! Hopefully it was minimal damage to you and your surroundings. I have seen first hand sparks from welding doing bad things. Most of the guys I was around kept a big water bottle around just for that purpose. Came in handy at times.

Glad to hear you're feeling better and making some progress on that thingamajig you are concocting.

Of course if there aren't pictures it hasn't happened.

Regards,

RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
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post #1008 of 1242 Old 01-06-2012, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I looked down and my sleeve was on fire. It has happened before...with the same jacket. I should probably use a fireproof outfit, but I weld so infrequently. It was just the outer part of the jacket, so I was not in any real danger.

...and yes, the sparks are significant and hot. Grinder sparks will fly 10 feet, but don't tend to set anything on fire.

I will post pics when I have it together. Right now, it looks just like the last pic with a few extra holes and more welding.

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Oh man FIRE!?! You do get extra points for fire, DOUBLE points for setting YOURSELF on fire! Hopefully it was minimal damage to you and your surroundings. I have seen first hand sparks from welding doing bad things. Most of the guys I was around kept a big water bottle around just for that purpose. Came in handy at times.

Glad to hear you're feeling better and making some progress on that thingamajig you are concocting.

Of course if there aren't pictures it hasn't happened.

Regards,

RTROSE


Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1009 of 1242 Old 01-06-2012, 07:30 PM
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Lol. I've set some fires welding. Not myself though. You need some proper leathers. I always borrow my dads leather frock just in case. And yes a big bottle of water and a fire extinguisher.

So yes bonus points for setting yourself on fire!!

Matt

"The main reason Santa is so jolly is because he knows where all the bad girls live." - George Carlin
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post #1010 of 1242 Old 01-09-2012, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, those of you following along for a while might remember the wiring mess I had inside a light box...?

I had put it together a long time ago, but er, incorrectly. I had a couple circuits not working. I took it all apart this weekend and fixed those circuits. I was all ready to put everything back when I checked the voltage on the lamp circuit. It is a single lamp with two 3 way switches. When the switches are "on" I have 115V, but when they are "off" I have 30V(!).

What? I'm thinking this is not right. When I disconnect the hot and neutral from the 3 way switches and then check voltage between the hot and the two wires between the 3 way switches, it also reads 110V. So, to me this means that the wiring between the switches is grounded somehow. The only issue is that I don't get a reading of continuity between the switch wiring and the neutral. Can anyone help verify my logic?

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1011 of 1242 Old 01-09-2012, 12:56 PM
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probably induced voltage especially if neutral is no running with both travelers (it should be and should enter both boxes in same KO as both travelers).

measure it with an analog meter and report back.


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Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Ok, those of you following along for a while might remember the wiring mess I had inside a light box...?

I had put it together a long time ago, but er, incorrectly. I had a couple circuits not working. I took it all apart this weekend and fixed those circuits. I was all ready to put everything back when I checked the voltage on the lamp circuit. It is a single lamp with two 3 way switches. When the switches are "on" I have 115V, but when they are "off" I have 30V(!).

What? I'm thinking this is not right. When I disconnect the hot and neutral from the 3 way switches and then check voltage between the hot and the two wires between the 3 way switches, it also reads 110V. So, to me this means that the wiring between the switches is grounded somehow. The only issue is that I don't get a reading of continuity between the switch wiring and the neutral. Can anyone help verify my logic?

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post #1012 of 1242 Old 01-09-2012, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longtimelurker View Post

probably induced voltage especially if neutral is no running with both travelers (it should be and should enter both boxes in same KO as both travelers).

measure it with an analog meter and report back.

This is exactly the information I was looking for! THANK YOU SO MUCH. I'm going to order a Fluke T+ Pro meter to check the voltage since that is a low induction meter. ....unless you have another recommendation. Are all analog meters low induction?

BTW, the travelers and the neutral are running in the same conduit...maybe there is another power line close by.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1013 of 1242 Old 01-09-2012, 07:36 PM
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pick up a dirt cheap ($5) analog meter from radio shack or harbor freight. they have a coil that moves the needle by using the supplied voltage/amperage (miniscule). induced voltage in the line wont have any usable current so it cant move the needle. digitals can still measure this (no coil/needle to move), so you get induced readings that cant actually carry a current and dont exist when a load is applied


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Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

This is exactly the information I was looking for! THANK YOU SO MUCH. I'm going to order a Fluke T+ Pro meter to check the voltage since that is a low induction meter. ....unless you have another recommendation. Are all analog meters low induction?

BTW, the travelers and the neutral are running in the same conduit...maybe there is another power line close by.

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post #1014 of 1242 Old 01-19-2012, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Just wanted to thank longtimelurker again! I picked up an analog multitester from HD for $10 (Harbor Freight didn't have them). I tested the switch set to off and it was close enough to 0V. I was able to check that unfinished project off my list.

I tried to assemble the rotary, but the driver mount is not aligned the same as before it was fully welded. I may have to do some grinding, but it will get done....eventually.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1015 of 1242 Old 01-25-2012, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm making slow progress (as usual). I had a birthday and then our girl turned 1 year old as well over the weekend! She is really fun even if she takes up a lot of my time.



For motivation I'm telling myself that I need to get some more stuff done before I order my new PJ, an Epson 5010. If you are looking for a new PJ take a look at this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1382091

I started framing out the front wall. I have one side panel done so far (whoop-de-doo!), but damn it looks good. The black spandex I bought is like a black hole.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1016 of 1242 Old 01-25-2012, 06:10 PM
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Excellent. Keep your eye on the ball.

You certainly have a little diva there. She is so cute! Cherish every moment they grow up very fast and time will get away from you very quickly.

If my projector budget was higher I would have gone with the 5010. I'm really happy though with the 8350.

Regards,

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Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
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post #1017 of 1242 Old 01-26-2012, 05:55 AM
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Wow one year already?!? Congratulations!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #1018 of 1242 Old 01-26-2012, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Ben. I bet time is going reeeeaaaaallllllly slow for those waiting for the rotary sub! I

RT: I'm with her the whole day, so I get a lot of time with her. I try to remember to have fun with her. Most times she is, but sometimes I want to kill myself it gets so frustrating. She is a very happy and social baby. ....as far as being a diva, we are trying to avoid that despite her "toddlers and tiara's" outfit for her photo shoot.

The 8350 is a fine PJ. You can't beat it for the value. Good image plus lens shift and zoom with decent light output. My current PJ was in line cost-wise with it. I'm looking for 3D and have a 135" screen 1.2 gain screen to light up, so I needed something a bit brighter. I figured I would treat myself since I've made/done everything else myself (plumbing, electrical, french drain, heating, structural beam, drywall, mudding, painting, concrete, screen, speakers, and hopefully seating). If I thought I could make a projector, I probably would!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1019 of 1242 Old 01-26-2012, 12:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I have both sides masked for 2.4:1. I need to do top and bottom for 16:9 and then an extra mask on the sides for 16:9 and bottom for 2.4:1. The top of the image doesn't change, which makes it easier. That way I'll have close to constant image area. I'm doing it just to maximize the use of the largest screen I could fit on the front wall.

I spent a couple hours trying to make my image square and I was having all kinds of problems. I don't think my trig is bad, but I must be making a mistake somehow. I was making the top of the screen level with the ceiling, then measuring the top length. I then measured down on one side for the image height. I took the length and the height squared and added them up, then took the square root to get the length of the hypotenuse. The distance was all off.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #1020 of 1242 Old 01-26-2012, 01:39 PM
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A squared + b squared = hypot squared.

The wall may not have been true and jutted out a different parts. Also pj may not have been directly perpendicular and level.

Matt

"The main reason Santa is so jolly is because he knows where all the bad girls live." - George Carlin
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