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post #211 of 1242 Old 11-01-2010, 01:11 PM
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LOLOL. I WAS TOTALLY GONNA START PUTTING STEEL BEAMS IN MY BASEMENT!!! I thought maybe a couple in the living room too just for fun.

I was wondering how you put the winches up there too, but I just figured you had a strong desire not to die so you probably thought something up that would work

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post #212 of 1242 Old 11-01-2010, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post

LOLOL. I WAS TOTALLY GONNA START PUTTING STEEL BEAMS IN MY BASEMENT!!! I thought maybe a couple in the living room too just for fun.

Ha ha ha!! That is too funny. Now EVERYONE is going be going crazy with the steel beams....

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I was wondering how you put the winches up there too, but I just figured you had a strong desire not to die so you probably thought something up that would work

Originially a little bit of chewing gum and duct tape was they way I was gonna do it, but then I realized I'm not a big gum chewer.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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post #213 of 1242 Old 11-01-2010, 01:40 PM
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Well, I think I thought it through, but I welcome any advice that would prevent me from killing myself!

If I didn't think I could do it, I wouldn't. I am perfect willing to pay for roofing work, for example.

Every difficult task can be broken down to many smaller tasks.

In case I didn't make it clear before. Under no circumstance should anyone ever attempt this yourself. I don't know what I'm doing, so don't blame me if you do the same as me and kill yourself.
(Translation: this is not a tutorial, please don't sue me if you don't know what you are doing and end up hurting yourself.)

Nice disclaimer!

Looking forward to seeing that beam in... I wish I could help you out, but unfourtuntely all I can offer is moral support. I'm stuck in Tel Aviv until Thanksgiving....

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post #214 of 1242 Old 11-01-2010, 01:58 PM
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Regarding you leak, do you have a place where you could put a valve and a pressure gauge? Most plumbers I've seen use a compressor to pump up the system to a certain pressure, and let is sit over night. If the pressure is still up, then you know you don't have a leak. That would at least saving you draining the system over and over again.
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post #215 of 1242 Old 11-01-2010, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the offer of help, you know, if you were around, which you aren't...Beemer. Ha! I think I've got it sorted anyway.

ICBM: Yes, you are right. That is the typical way of testing leaks. Since the rest of the system isn't leaking, I could pressurize it and listen for air leaks at my trouble spot.

Really, it is not too hard to drain and fill the system. The pain is pulling the stove out, reaching to the back of a cabinet and using a heavy plumber's wrench at arm's length, pulling off the coupler, soldering, etc...

This is one tiny leak. It isn't even leaking when the heat is not on for some reason. I can leave it until Thursday when I have time to have the heat off for a couple of hours.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #216 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I ordered 30 feet (10M) of RGB LEDs last night. I've been saying I would buy some, but I'm finally near the end of the project (ha!) so can justify it.

$90 for the LED strip, a remote, a controller, and a power supply for it. I think it is a good deal since I can change the color of the light with the remote. The remote is IR so I can probably use a Harmony or whatever the multifunction remotes are called. I have one that was given to me, but not sure if it is flexible enough to control devices it doesn't know exist.

I'll let you know of my impressions when I get it. If I like it, I'll get one or two more. This will serve to light up my white fabric squares on my wall and provide general lighting...I might also be able to use it behind my screen. Each 30 feet gets its own remote, controller and power supply. I'm thinking that one remote will control all of them. The controllers have a wire with an IR sensor on the end. I guess that if I get really close to the sensor with the remote and cup my hand around it, I can get it to light a different color than the other LED units. That might be a nice effect.

If this link expires, you should be able to find the item by searching for "RGB LED strip 10m 44 -flash" in eBay.

Link to the item

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post #217 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I ordered 30 feet (10M) of RGB LEDs last night. I've been saying I would buy some, but I'm finally near the end of the project (ha!) so can justify it.

$90 for the LED strip, a remote, a controller, and a power supply for it. I think it is a good deal since I can change the color of the light with the remote. The remote is IR so I can probably use a Harmony or whatever the multifunction remotes are called. I have one that was given to me, but not sure if it is flexible enough to control devices it doesn't know exist.

I'll let you know of my impressions when I get it. If I like it, I'll get one or two more. This will serve to light up my white fabric squares on my wall and provide general lighting...I might also be able to use it behind my screen. Each 30 feet gets its own remote, controller and power supply. I'm thinking that one remote will control all of them. The controllers have a wire with an IR sensor on the end. I guess that if I get really close to the sensor with the remote and cup my hand around it, I can get it to light a different color than the other LED units. That might be a nice effect.

If this link expires, you should be able to find the item by searching for "RGB LED strip 10m 44 -flash" in eBay.

Link to the item


PLEASE let us know how you like those! I REALLY wanted to use some but the cheapest i found for 48 feet with a controller was going to be close to 300 bucks for everything. I wanted to do the RGB lights around my soffit but instead i just put white up there...i toyed with the idea of putting 3 separate strands of red green and blue and controlling them with my GE...but i didnt want to give up the two extra spaces in case i decided to do a riser....(good thing i didnt)

I think THIS is what i was looking at before.

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post #218 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Will do PT. That RGB LED rope light is not even "real" RGB since the RGBs are separate LEDs....it's more like R--G--B! You wouldn't want to use them in an application where you could see the lights directly before hitting another surface. If you set the color to "white" it will look like R, G, B instead.

If you look for "RGB LED strip 5050" on youtube, you'll get an idea of what these puppies can do.

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Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #219 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 06:36 AM
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Just checked those out on youtube. I REALLY WISH i had known about them a few months ago!

Since they are 12v...how does that work...does the included power supply plug into a regular outlet?

Also, im wondering how the IR would work in my situation...im wanting to hide them behind the crown molding on my soffit...i wonder if there would be an easy way to get the IR in line of site without being too noticeable.

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post #220 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, the power supply plugs in to the outlet and there is a plug to go to the controller. The IR is on a wire (I don't know how long). I'm assuming the plug, controller, and IR sensor will be within a few feet of each other because of the length of the cords (you could use an extension cord too or solder in extra wire for the sensor.) With the sensor on a wire, you could drill a hole through the molding or attach just the sensor above it.

Most IR works without having to point directly at the sensor. It can bounce off a wall.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #221 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Yes, the power supply plugs in to the outlet and there is a plug to go to the controller. The IR is on a wire (I don't know how long). I'm assuming the plug, controller, and IR sensor will be within a few feet of each other because of the length of the cords (you could use an extension cord too or solder in extra wire for the sensor.) With the sensor on a wire, you could drill a hole through the molding or attach just the sensor above it.

Most IR works without having to point directly at the sensor. It can bounce off a wall.

Cool! Now ill just wait and see how you like them! :-) That would really add the extra "wow" factor for my soffit lighting.

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post #222 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 07:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I've wrote about them quite a while ago and in several places. Maybe it's because I'm a nut that no one has tried them? The $300-500 ones have *got* to be better?

PT, I'm pretty sure you can order a 10cm (4") one for something like $10 and that includes shipping from China! It would be a good way for someone to try for a small price.

I'll have mine within a couple of weeks and I'll post some pics along with my opinion.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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post #223 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I've wrote about them quite a while ago and in several places. Maybe it's because I'm a nut that no one has tried them? The $300-500 ones have *got* to be better?

PT, I'm pretty sure you can order a 10cm (4") one for something like $10 and that includes shipping from China! It would be a good way for someone to try for a small price.

I'll have mine within a couple of weeks and I'll post some pics along with my opinion.

You know, now I think I do remember you mentioning these....I vaguely remember a bunch of renderings with all sorts of funky colors....ill have to go back and check!

I'm looking forward to the pictures to be sure.

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post #224 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Mentioned them here. ...but I do ramble sometimes.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #225 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Mentioned them here. ...but I do ramble sometimes.

AHHH HA! Yup those were what I remembered. You should get back to work though...so we can see it in real life!

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post #226 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I took a break last night. I finally saw Angels and Demons. It was a bit different than the book, but still good. It's fun to watch a movie on the PJ. I can't wait for more room and seats to be able to let others in on the joy.

Today I'm getting my joist hangers, so I raise the beam tonight. I won't be able to finish it until Thursday likely.

On Wed, I'm going to a local AVSer's place to see/hear his setup. He has a Danley DTS-10, which will be fun to compare to my THT.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #227 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I took a break last night. I finally saw Angels and Demons. It was a bit different than the book, but still good. It's fun to watch a movie on the PJ. I can't wait for more room and seats to be able to let others in on the joy.

Today I'm getting my joist hangers, so I raise the beam tonight. I won't be able to finish it until Thursday likely.

On Wed, I'm going to a local AVSer's place to see/hear his setup. He has a Danley DTS-10, which will be fun to compare to my THT.

Very cool! You'll have to let me know what you think. I still really want to build my THTLP, with my 12" shiva driver. I wish there was someone here locally i could compare the traditional THT with the dayton driver to my version. (once its built )

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post #228 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, the full THT has crazy output. I'm shaking the floor at about 1/4 output. I think your 12" shiva driver has 1/2 the output of the DVC 15 that is in the THT (if I remember correctly).

...so get yours built, then find out at what level the floor starts shaking.

To tell you the truth, the output is too much except for when someone comes over and you want to "show off". You can't listen to more than a couple of songs at even half volume. It's just too damn loud! Oh no, I'm being banned from AVS!!! For normal movies, loud is ok, but I can't imagine having WOtW at full volume for the full movie. I think I would have PTSD afterward.

I have to get the level of the highs and lows better matched at higher volumes. The highs are overpowering at high volume. I have the Audyssey dynamic EQ turned on and there are a few different modes....

In summary, tou really should get yours together if you have the time. You have all the parts, from what I remember, so you won't be spending money.

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Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #229 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Well, the full THT has crazy output. I'm shaking the floor at about 1/4 output. I think your 12" shiva driver has 1/2 the output of the DVC 15 that is in the THT (if I remember correctly).

...so get yours built, then find out at what level the floor starts shaking.

To tell you the truth, the output is too much except for when someone comes over and you want to "show off". You can't listen to more than a couple of songs at even half volume. It's just too damn loud! Oh no, I'm being banned from AVS!!! For normal movies, loud is ok, but I can't imagine having WOtW at full volume for the full movie. I think I would have PTSD afterward.

I have to get the level of the highs and lows better matched at higher volumes. The highs are overpowering at high volume. I have the Audyssey dynamic EQ turned on and there are a few different modes....

In summary, tou really should get yours together if you have the time. You have all the parts, from what I remember, so you won't be spending money.


Some people did some modeling and the Shiva specs wise modeled very closely to the dayton....what that actually means in terms of output, I dunno. My understanding was with that type of enclosure driver size makes less of a difference than in standard sealed or ported box constructions. Eitherway, that 12" shiva driver is impressive in a tiny sealed box, the THX thing with the mushroom things in it, you already get that floor moving type bass (it just barely creeps into that range without being over driven)

So i can only hope when I let it loose in what seems to be essentially a Megaphone for woofers....ill be blown away.

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post #230 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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I built my THT in 6-8 hours total, although I still have to paint it. I'm thinking it won't get too much louder with paint, so haven't bothered yet.

It doesn't really take much time if you like to build stuff....and the work is well worth it.

Shouldn't you have finished up that riser last night? What is taking so long?? Now, I will have to taunt you on your riser, a PJ *and* a THT????

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
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Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #231 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 09:03 AM
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Since you're talking bass, I figured I'd chime in. I am in Albany and Andreas and I will be getting together to check out my DTS-10 on Wed. I have to say that I'm pretty excited to hear that THT though - you guys are really talking it up, so it better be good! My DTS-10 is in my huge open basement powered by an EP4000 running in parallel rather than bridged, but it still shakes the concrete pretty well!! I didn't feel like I needed the serious levels the freaks over in the DTS-10 thread are getting, pressurizing the neighbors' houses etc. :-)

I think I'm dealing with some nasty room nodes too, but Dennis E. just did the pro layout service for me (which I highly recommend), and I'll be starting construction next week! I am definitely gonna have Andreas over so we can put a few beams in just for fun!

Ok - sorry for hijacking Andreas! Back to beam-lifting competition 2010!!

Ben

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #232 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Ben, you should start a build thread too so I can have somewhere else to post when I'm bored at work!

Can't wait to see what Dennis designed for Ben! I can only hope he has designed some soffits made with a few beams each.

I have heard plenty good about the DTS, so I'm sure it delivers. My THT is in a small room, but the windows and lights in the floor below rattle around. The source more than anything dictates how much wobble you get.

Post all you want, Ben. This thread doesn't have to be all business....just take a look at Logan's thread. I think he has maybe 1 out of 200 posts where he actually working on his HT.

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post #233 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Shouldn't you have finished up that riser last night? What is taking so long?? Now, I will have to taunt you on your riser, a PJ *and* a THT????

CURSES! *shakes fist* I knew I should have kept my mouth shut! But im bringing the lumber home from work today! So I SHOULD be able to get the framing done (assuming nothing goes wrong or i dont change the plans) tonight. Then I'll have to wait till this weekend to go get the floor, as money is tight right now.

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post #234 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post

.....Also, im wondering how the IR would work in my situation...im wanting to hide them behind the crown molding on my soffit...i wonder if there would be an easy way to get the IR in line of site without being too noticeable.

If the IR sensor is just the 2 wires, you might be able to cut it off and connect an output from an IR distibution block with some STP CAT5e.

It would be an interesting experiment, I may order one to play with when I get home... I can think of a few applications outside of the HT.

I'm looking forward to hearing how they work, I'd like to try them out as under cabinet lighting.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, Over.....
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post #235 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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PT: get er done.... it will motivate you to do more! ...and if it doesn't motivate you, I'll be right there to give you a good taunting or two.

Beemer: looks like it will take 2.5 weeks or so to get here. That gives me enough time to try them out and order more if I like before my HT is done...barely. Ha! I'm really looking forward to them. They look like a lot of fun on the cheap.

I have the beam up!



Ok, so it is still under the joists. I will cut the joists Thursday and then jack it up the last few inches. I have the joist hangers as of tonight, so I'm all set to put those in too. I bought a Bostitch compact nailer to put the nails into the hangers. I wanted to use screws, but that is a no-no as they aren't as strong. The nailer gets rave reviews and should save me HOURS putting in the 360 nails in the confined space between the joists.

My shoulders have gotten considerably stronger over the course of this project, but I don't think I'd be able to lift my arms for a week after than many nails over my head!

Tomorrow I get to hear Ben's Danley DTS-10. I'm pretty excited!

I'm hoping to go visit MKTheater's place sometime soon too. He has TWO of them along with high power fronts and each one of them gets an amp.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #236 of 1242 Old 11-02-2010, 08:34 PM
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Wowwww! Well done on that beam!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #237 of 1242 Old 11-03-2010, 05:44 AM
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Beam me up scottie!!!

Shades of Grey Theater

Live: Hero of Cannton 

Currently Playing: CoD Black Ops II

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post #238 of 1242 Old 11-03-2010, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! It is nice to have it there with my house and limbs intact. I was a bit nervous even though I kept telling myself it would be fine even if it fell as long as I wasn't under it.

I did a few military presses with it before getting it up all the way.

I can't wait to get the temp walls out so I can admire how much more open it feels.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #239 of 1242 Old 11-03-2010, 10:50 AM
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Nice job so far! That is a big project....

Nice price on the palm nailer; I bought a Ridgid for about $10 more and I love that thing! I picked it up during my shed build last year after putting about 3 nails in "manually" into my rafter plates.

When the time comes you will be thankful you got it. I would recommend wearing ear protection, especially in an enlosed space. My nailer makes a heck of a racket...

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, Over.....
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post #240 of 1242 Old 11-03-2010, 10:52 AM
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Oh, I forgot to ask (you may have mentioned it before) how are you planning on securing the jack posts top plate to the beam?

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, Over.....
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