Where to install PJ and HT equipment in dedicated theater - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 13 Old 06-28-2010, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
koberlin1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: San Marcos, Ca, USA
Posts: 416
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have been perusing the AVS forum for years and more recently dedicated theater design. After some reading here is what I was thinking of doing regarding equipment and projector locations. I would love any advice from those who have accomplished this successfully.

To preserve the dedicated HT room aesthetics as well as heat and noise levels of the equipment and projector I was thinking of installing the equipment rack and PJ in the rear wall of the theater.

For the the equipment I could leave ~2.5 - 3 ft behind rear wall. No access from behind...just from the front. I have had success with the sliding racks for equipment and assume I would frame out an enclosure to accommodate the height and width I need with a door on the front. Could lift it off the floor so it is centered on the wall. I could cool using Middle Atlantic's CLOSET COOLER system to keep things cool.

For the projector I could frame out an enclosure utilizing the 2.5 - 3 ft space behind rear wall. Perhaps a plexiglass front would help keep fan noise from entering the theater. Middle Atlantic's DUCT COOL system would seem to work well for cooling the projector. I could have it vent to the outside of the building. Not sure if the plexiglass front would inhibit the cooling.

Ideally the theater would have its own dedicated HVAC system so there would be cool air to ventilate through the equipment and projector.

I would run conduit in between projector and equipment rack for cabling and would run speaker and sub cables through framing to front stage area and surround locations. Maybe a conduit run from equipment rack to stage area as well for future cabling (through ceiling joists and down behind the screen).

Thanks for your thoughts on this!

PS Not minor issue topics I know but thought I would mention.... I was planning on a platform floor/seating design with a 12" high (2 step) platform in the back of the theater to accommodate a 3-seat common arm theater sofa then the same 3-seat common arm sofa in front of platform on the rooms floor 10 feet back from a 120" screen (and projector with the needed throw). Aisles down each side, and to keep sound from escaping a foyer type of entry at the side of the theater. Overall interior theater dimensions 20' W by 24' D by 10' T. Have some sound proofing, acoustical treatment, interior design, equipment selection, electrical and lighting ideas in mind as well.

_____________
K
koberlin1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 06-28-2010, 06:18 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,490
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 138 Post(s)
Liked: 531
A critical element of your plan is the throw ratio specifications of the projector you select. Not all will be happy at 21 ft.
Do you know what projector you would like to use?
Is 120 diagonal or width? a 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen?

Also FYI there is a specialty optical glass you will want to use to separate the projection area from the room, it is not Plexiglas. I don't remember the name.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #3 of 13 Old 06-28-2010, 07:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Elill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,417
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 17
I think this is the right stuff -

http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...=1919&search=1

I could be wrong, haven't used it myself.

Also I think you need to tilt the glass at the right angle relative to the screen etc etc....not simple

Peter the Greek

Downunder Theatre MkII
Redefining snail pace construction
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"

Elill is online now  
post #4 of 13 Old 06-28-2010, 08:16 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
mrlittlejeans's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: the area formerly known as Black Forest
Posts: 4,714
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 192
That glass is pretty cheap. Will it degrade the image? I was going to have my projector shooting through a hole in the wall, but if the glass won't hurt the image, I may go that route.

Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence

mrlittlejeans is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 06-28-2010, 08:48 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,490
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 138 Post(s)
Liked: 531
IMHO the current projector offerings are pretty quiet. Putting them in a hush box or adjacent room pointing through a hole with some acoustical absorption on the surrounding surfaces will sufficiently tame the noise without bothering with a piece of glass to separate the spaces.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #6 of 13 Old 06-28-2010, 09:01 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Elill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,417
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

IMHO the current projector offerings are pretty quiet. Putting them in a hush box or adjacent room pointing through a hole with some acoustical absorption on the surrounding surfaces will sufficiently tame the noise without bothering with a piece of glass to separate the spaces.

Thats the approach I am going to take - aiming to get the sound floor down to around 20db with projector and hvac running (all other gear, except a CD player will be outside the room)

That said I'll be having a small screen and projector probably 92" or 100" 2.35 so I wont have a big, loud projector for that

Peter the Greek

Downunder Theatre MkII
Redefining snail pace construction
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"

Elill is online now  
post #7 of 13 Old 06-29-2010, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
koberlin1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: San Marcos, Ca, USA
Posts: 416
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:


A critical element of your plan is the throw ratio specifications of the projector you select. Not all will be happy at 21 ft.
Do you know what projector you would like to use?

Was leaning towards the Epson Home/Pro Cinema 8100/9100. Specs seem to indicate I can get a 120" 16:9 image at a throw distance of 20' (at 1.25x). I was mistaken when I mentioned the interior room depth at 24'...the interior depth (screen to rear wall) would be 20' but framing would be 24' allowing for 3' behind rear wall and 1' behind screen. The 1' will allow for acoustical boxes to fit around the backside of the in-wall LCR's I would put behind the screen....actually center would be behind the screen and LR's would be wide hidden behind a false wall/flanking columns.

Quote:


Is 120 diagonal or width? a 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen?

A 120" diagonal 16:9 screen

Quote:


IMHO the current projector offerings are pretty quiet. Putting them in a hush box or adjacent room pointing through a hole with some acoustical absorption on the surrounding surfaces will sufficiently tame the noise without bothering with a piece of glass to separate the spaces.

I agree...just thought it would be nice keeping it out of the room. Also did not know of he specialty glass required. You know of any hush box designs floating out there?

Quote:


Thats the approach I am going to take - aiming to get the sound floor down to around 20db with projector and hvac running (all other gear, except a CD player will be outside the room)

That is nice and quiet! In the past I have used a mini-split for AC and a heat exchange system with insulated duct (with at least 2 90 degree turns in the run) and it has kept my HVAC soundfloor minimal. The vents are the culprits as they force incoming and outgoing air through the vent architecture creating whistling etc.

Thanks for all your help!

_____________
K
koberlin1 is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 06-29-2010, 12:56 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,490
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 138 Post(s)
Liked: 531
Flaming Ridge has a hush box built into a rear soffit. If you do a search on hush box you should get more hits.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #9 of 13 Old 06-29-2010, 02:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Elill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,417
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by koberlin1 View Post

The vents are the culprits as they force incoming and outgoing air through the vent architecture creating whistling etc. Thanks for all your help!

You need to be aiming for 250 cubic feet per minute vent velocity, apparently the Nailor bar diffusers are the go, if you can get em

Peter the Greek

Downunder Theatre MkII
Redefining snail pace construction
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"

Elill is online now  
post #10 of 13 Old 06-29-2010, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
koberlin1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: San Marcos, Ca, USA
Posts: 416
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks! Wow Elill just saw your personal theater thread and looks like you are in the thick of it! How is the progress?

_____________
K
koberlin1 is offline  
post #11 of 13 Old 06-29-2010, 04:59 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Elill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,417
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 17
G'day - well I was in the thick of it, its on hold at present as we're getting two puppies in a month or so......the only way I could convince the Mrs to make them sleep outside was to build the mother of all kennels (insulated, sealed doors, solar and wind ventilation, a deck, ramps, waterproofed, it sits on structural supports......blah blah blah

To cut a long story short, my weekends and money have been rediverted. Will start again in September I hope. HVAC and electrical rough-in is next. Oh and I picked up a full size rack for A$1200 (used for 6 weeks, so they say), its got a glass door, casters, vents, fully panneled......couldn't say no to it

I keep changing my mind regarding the design (contemporary or traditional), its doing my head in - not sure how I am going to approach things now

Peter the Greek

Downunder Theatre MkII
Redefining snail pace construction
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"

Elill is online now  
post #12 of 13 Old 06-29-2010, 07:58 PM
Senior Member
 
GRBoomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 336
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

You need to be aiming for 250 cubic feet per minute vent velocity, apparently the Nailor bar diffusers are the go, if you can get em

250 feet per minute - this is the face velocity through the diffusers to minimize rushing air noise.

Cubic feet per minute is volumetric air flow, which is what you need to calculate the air changes per hour and the BTUs to remove from the room. Rule of thumb 6-9 ACH which is similar to the exchange rate for a kitchen. Once you get the air exchanges based on the volume of the room then you can calculate the airflow (CFM) requirements, then add enough diffuser face area to reduce the face velocity to 250 fpm.
GRBoomer is offline  
post #13 of 13 Old 07-01-2010, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
koberlin1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: San Marcos, Ca, USA
Posts: 416
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
wow your puppies are gonna have some nice digs! Been looking at suspended ceilings and they offer some great design apps...easy to install and big impact. Will leave the HVAC to the experts..

_____________
K
koberlin1 is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off