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post #181 of 1008 Old 07-18-2011, 03:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, thanks to my friend Tony123, here are some sketchups of the proposed room. I will need to add in the surround speakers (4) but these are the dimensions that I have to work with. Obviously will need to come up with a speaker mounting solution for the LCR fronts.

















I would welcome feedback that anyone has regarding the space. I will be running a 7.2 system with 3 x Nile 2770 Pro LCR's 4 x Emotiva ERD-1 Bipole / Dipole surrounds, Emotiva XPA-5 and UPA-2 amp, Emotiva UMC-1 and USP-1 pre-amp processors. The two subs at the front behind the screen wall are Danley DTS-10's powered by an EP-4000.

I am mounting a Mitsubishi HC-6800 Full HD projector (2 years old with 15 mins on the globe. Yep... this build has taken forever!) with Anamorphic Research lens with astigmatism correction lens at the rear of the room on a Chief RPA-U mounts and Anamorphic Research lens slide. I figure that my throw distance will be about 16 feet. The calculator on Projector Central says that I should be OK with about a 135 inch 2.37:1 screen, using some zoom (about 1.46). The Mitsubishi's are pretty good in terms of the zoom not having a major impact on image brightness, so I am hoping that I should be fine. Calculator says that I will have 14 FL, so I am hoping that will be sufficient. The room will be totally light controlled, with the windows being blocked off with a new stud wall. I have enough Seymour DIY material for a 150 inch screen so can play around with images once the projector is mounted up.

Out to you guys for some words of wisdom..... And you can reply as well Hanes!

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post #182 of 1008 Old 07-18-2011, 04:49 AM
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Greg, two quick thoughts. Are you loosing that foot of width down the entire room length because of the window? Is sure we be nice to have it back as room space. Is there a solution to that window that isn't as costly (from a space perspective)?

Also, because of the size of the subs, you probably will need to mount the LCR so that it can be aimed directly at the listener. Otherwise, they are a bit higher than ear level.

I know first hand how sensative the Danley is to room placement. I wonder if you should have a gameplan to test the subs in the space before building your options away. For instance, you could end up with one at the front wall and one built into the riser in the rear. Just thinking out loud. Always nice to have a plan "B". Hey...if you are already loosing a foot down the window wall, another six inches and you could fit subs into that wall as well. Plan "C".

Like I said, print one of those and doodle on it to show further detail. Send me a scan of it and I can flesh out the drawings better.

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post #183 of 1008 Old 07-18-2011, 12:31 PM
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Hi Greg

Looking good!

Its a bit hard to tell what height the LCRs are, in relation to the seating, but as Tony123 stated, you really want them at ear level. Given two rows, somewhere in between.

Are you putting any bass traps in ?

How did you get on with the clips and channel for the ceiling ?

Any reason you have left 28" behind the screen ? Could you gain a little room depth so the front row isn't so close ? ~150" screen will be very immersive from that distance.
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post #184 of 1008 Old 07-18-2011, 01:25 PM
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wilsonj, we're all friends here. You can call me just Tony.

I suggested the 28" behind the screen. It's what I have, and I found my Danleys sounded best with the port firing to the front wall and a 12" space. Of course, his room will be different than mine. I would be nice to save the 12" for room space. I think he'll test the subs first before committing.

Good point on the base traps. Next generation I'll put corner traps in the drawing. Trap size will also dictate distance behind screenwall.

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post #185 of 1008 Old 07-18-2011, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Greg

Looking good!

Its a bit hard to tell what height the LCRs are, in relation to the seating, but as Tony123 stated, you really want them at ear level. Given two rows, somewhere in between.

Are you putting any bass traps in ?

How did you get on with the clips and channel for the ceiling ?

Any reason you have left 28" behind the screen ? Could you gain a little room depth so the front row isn't so close ? ~150" screen will be very immersive from that distance.

Hi Jamie,

Once drywall is in I will play around with speaker placements, screen sizes etc. I would love to go the biggest screen that I can comfortably watch from the first row. Immersive is one thing... nasea inducing is another. Once I get the projector mounted up, I can then look at where I build the screen wall. I am hoping for about a 135 inch screen. That would leave about 50cm each side of the screen. I may have a chat to you about the curved screen when it comes time to do that. Yours came out great!

I am hoping that I can reduce the amount of depth behind the screen wall. As Tony said, 28 inches was based on firing the Danleys away from the viewer into the wall. If I can get satisfactory performance from them facing the seating, then I will be able to reduce the depth of the screen wall. I would hope that 2 Danley's, even if they are operating at half of what they could, will still be more than enough to tear the place to shreds!

I will need to put Bass Traps in. Will probably speak to the guys at Acoustica here in Sydney. They do a range of High Density batts that I hope may be similar to the typical material used on the forums.

The rear riser will be constructed of 250 x 90 (10 inch high) timber. By the time I add 19mm ply to the top, carpet and underlay, It should be about 11-11.5 inches high. Once that is done, I will get the chairs up there and find a mid point for ear level for the two rows. The Niles speakers can be orientated sideways or vertically and have swivel tweeters. Here's a pic of them...



With regards to channel, I have an email in with the Studco rep just asking the question. Would like to get the response in writing regarding the weight for the ceiling sheets. I am pretty sure that the whisper clips are rated for DD 5/8 inch (about 16mm which is what I am using) without any issues. There have been pictures on here of people doing chin-ups off them so they are pretty solid.

Hows that carpet going?

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post #186 of 1008 Old 07-20-2011, 02:54 PM
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Hey Greg,

All sounds good!

Are you going to be using a 2.35 screen ? Just as an idea, mine is 120" (wide) and I sit around 10 feet away. This to me is quite comfortable. I have tried other distances, and 8.5 feet is the limit for me. So I suspect 135" wide if talking scope at around 9.5-10 feet will be fine. Incidentally I actually enjoy sitting closer when watching 3D.

I just looked up the Danley DTS10 sub. Its a monster, and you have TWO! I hope you have your insurance paid up! You won't suffer from a lack of bass.

If there is one thing I wished I had done different it would be to use multiple smaller subs placed around the room. Instead of two large ones up front. I have copious amounts of bass, but quite uneven. I underestimated how easy it is to pressurize a sealed room too. The dials on both my subs are on about 3 ( out of 11 of course!)

Good to hear you are getting some advice from Studco. Last thing you want is the ceiling coming down!

Are you using this clip ? http://www.resilmount.com/aud/resilmount-m-237r.html

I'm just waiting on the carpet layer now. I'm quite nervous. I hope it looks OK.
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post #187 of 1008 Old 07-21-2011, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Greg,

All sounds good!

Are you going to be using a 2.35 screen ? Just as an idea, mine is 120" (wide) and I sit around 10 feet away. This to me is quite comfortable. I have tried other distances, and 8.5 feet is the limit for me. So I suspect 135" wide if talking scope at around 9.5-10 feet will be fine. Incidentally I actually enjoy sitting closer when watching 3D.

I just looked up the Danley DTS10 sub. Its a monster, and you have TWO! I hope you have your insurance paid up! You won't suffer from a lack of bass.

If there is one thing I wished I had done different it would be to use multiple smaller subs placed around the room. Instead of two large ones up front. I have copious amounts of bass, but quite uneven. I underestimated how easy it is to pressurize a sealed room too. The dials on both my subs are on about 3 ( out of 11 of course!)

Good to hear you are getting some advice from Studco. Last thing you want is the ceiling coming down!

Are you using this clip ? http://www.resilmount.com/aud/resilmount-m-237r.html

I'm just waiting on the carpet layer now. I'm quite nervous. I hope it looks OK.

Hi Jamie,

Hope that carpet worked out fine. No need to be nervous...all he can possibly do is stuff up your theatre and cost you thousands!

I am indeed building a 2.35:1 screen. Probably closer to 2.37 but it won't make an awful lot of difference I would imagine.

The DTS Subs are fairly large and bloody heavy. Had to carry them into the house of f the back of a ute. Two burly big blokes and we still struggled. seems to be a common theme among owners here. I have a Behringer DCX-2496 crossover / Eq to tame them and get them dialled in correctly. Hopefully I will be able to fire them forwards, which will buy me an extra foot in my room by reducing the depth of the screen wall.

I had previously asked for a quote from Studco but in my haste, forgot about allowing for channel for the ceilings. Not too bright. Anyway, will need to order some more. And here I was thinking that the price was already high! Looks like I can probably add a couple of hundred more. Certainly adds up!

I am not using the Studco clips. I had already ordered some of the Green Glue Whisper Clips. Details are here:


http://www.greengluecompany.com/noiseproofing_clips.php

Look forward to your finished photos....

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post #188 of 1008 Old 07-24-2011, 03:32 PM
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Greg, are the whisper clips suitable for the Aussie furring channel ? metric V's imperial ?

Carpet all in ! Reasonably happy. It isn't quite as dark as I thought it was. Certainly more of a charcoal and grey, rather than black and charcoal.
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post #189 of 1008 Old 07-25-2011, 04:46 AM - Thread Starter
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G'day Jamie, well I hope so. I did receive a dimensional drawing of the Studco channel and forwarded the drawing to the whisper clip supplier jn the USA. Their advice was that it was fine, the only difference being that the Studco product is a couple of mm higher than the US product. Apart from that, dimensions and gauge were the same. I will check one more time before ordering to make sure. I really don't want a ton of drywall landing on my head. That would not be a good day!
Looking forward to seeing some photos of your place. Bet it's looking great!

I am hoping that my finances will all be sorted within a fortnight and I can start demoing and framing up the room. Did my tax today so have a reasonably tidy return coming my way. Enough to pay off the visa card and pay for drywall anyway! It's a long road ahead but I am hoping it will be fun. possibility I may need to travel overseas for work so that may cost me a little time but should nett me some extra cash. That would be nice! You guys have it made with the South Australian mortgages! God knows why we bust our proverbials living in Sydney and paying through the teeth for the privilege. Read that the median home price jn my suburb is 625k.... And it's a nice middle of the road neighborhood. Crazy times. Good mate of mine moved to Adelaide and never looked back.
Greg.

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post #190 of 1008 Old 07-25-2011, 06:27 AM
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God knows why we bust our proverbials living in Sydney and paying through the teeth for the privilege.

...I've been asking myself that recently....I like Adelaide (good HiFi and even better food and plonk....)....darn I need to be up in 5.5 hours....

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post #191 of 1008 Old 07-25-2011, 11:13 AM
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Hi Greg, I thought you would have it sorted, but worth asking as the RSIC clips from the US don't fit the Aussie Studco channel. I was going to buy my clips from the US as the price was much better. Silly as they are made in Australia ! I ended up getting them for half the price of my original quote though. Prices vary quite a bit.

I'm trying to take some decent pictures, but its really proving difficult. I'll get a tripod and have another go. The lighting isn't conducive to good photography.
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post #192 of 1008 Old 09-06-2011, 03:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, up until now I had done just about everything except start the room. Today marked the first (of many) days of construction. Had the little fella in hospital yesterday with an ear operation but I managed to squeeze an hour or so this afternoon to start emptying out my room and demolition. Was looking forward to 'breaking drywall' but that first hammer swing on a perfectly good wall was a bit nerve wracking.

I managed to get most of the walls removed today. Have to clean up the remaining drywall, remove the ceiling (and that horrible blown insulation) remove the skirtings, make safe the electricals (which are 50 years old) and then I can lay the first of the soundproofing. Here are some iphone photos. Sorry about the poor quality.







I am hoping to do an hour or two each night this week to make sure that the mess is tidied up and I have a clean slate to get the construction happening. Have a question for those more learned than myself in terms of sound isolation. My home sits on brick piles and I have only timber floorboards (no concrete slab). I intend to lay some 19mm (about 3/4 inch) yellow tongue particle board over the existing flooring, with a layer of Green Glue between. I have two questions:

(1) Should I put the flooring down before I start drywalling the walls?

(2) I will be building a stud wall on two foot centres about 1 foot from the existing windows to block out the light and also for sound isolation. Should I lay the flooring to cover the whole existing flooring or should I build the stud wall and then lay the particle board within the new room measurements? My first instinct would be to just lay the flooring in the narrower room to avoid flanking but I am not sure.

Anyways, happy to be finally moving along with my build and to find a home for all my equipment (and unused projector still new in box!)

More updates to follow....

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post #193 of 1008 Old 09-06-2011, 03:38 AM
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Lookin good mate - those hardwood studs?

PM Ted about the floor

I'd have thought it'd go in last, rationale being isolate it from the walls - leave a small gap and chaulk the gap with fire rated mastic

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post #194 of 1008 Old 09-06-2011, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey there Peter,
How are things? Hope all is well. I tend to agree about the order you suggested. May be better to build the stud wall and then floor the area. I have some of the Green Glue acoustic caulk so will use that. If I run out I think the local stuff is cheaper and probably fine for that application. I am going to have an issue where the fire place was. There is a remaining brick / concrete pad where the previous open fire was. It sits probably 25mm proud of floor level. If I floor around it it will probably be close to level. May be a leakage point however. Only plus us that it will be under the riser so that will afford some isolation (was going to double ply the riser and green glue)
So, construction finally started! And I was enjoying living without drywall dust for a few months..... Atleast I can close the door on it and not have it go right through the house! How's that captive program going? Have your efforts borne fruit or simply provided respite from unwanted tensions????

Ps, yep. They are hardwood studs. I am hoping that the ceiling joists are equally solid to avoid having to beef it up for double drywall.

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post #195 of 1008 Old 09-09-2011, 11:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Thought I would just post some updated photos taken with my digital camera. Not great but much better than the last photos taken with the Iphone. Atleast the dust has settled down in the room a little.

I need to have the electrician back to remove the airconditioner head unit and evacuate the gas from the system. What a pain. Anyway, this will be a weak link in sound isolation if I don't remove it. Hopefully he can get here Monday to take it down and then I can finish that wall.



The bags in the corner are Knauf rockwool batts. They are R3.5 which are probably a little thicker than I need but at 2.00 per square metre on special, I thought they would be fine. Probably won't make much difference behind the other sound isolation measures but should keep the room nice and warm in winter. Oh, and they are not itchy to handle.





Above is a photo of the windows that will be blocked out. I have venetian blinds (which I took down during demo) and then I will block out the windows with black material on the inside behind the venetians. There will be an insulated stud wall the full length of the room which will totally block out any light and ensure that I get some effective isolation. Those windows leak sound terribly.



I estimate about 2 trailer loads of drywall and skirting boards to take to the rubbish dump. There goes another 100 bucks. Not sure about you guys in the US, but we pay through the teeth for garbage disposal here in Sydney. Since renovating my kitchen, knocking down a couple of walls and building the rear deck, I have shelled out over a thousand dollars in tipping charges

Well, no amount of posting photos and reading posts is going to get that pile in the middle of my lounge room cleaned up. Better get to it!

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post #196 of 1008 Old 09-10-2011, 01:10 AM
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Wow, nice mess you got there ......I spent the arvo cleaning out the garage.....

Good luck with those studs when you're putting up the clips.....I assume you'll have to pre-drill every hole?......royal PITA....

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post #197 of 1008 Old 09-10-2011, 01:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow, nice mess you got there ......I spent the arvo cleaning out the garage.....

Good luck with those studs when you're putting up the clips.....I assume you'll have to pre-drill every hole?......royal PITA....

To be honest, I am surprised you aren't here with your shovel and trailer. And when you finish that you can start on the pre-drilling!

Strangely, that was my first thought when I saw the hardwood studs! Bummer.

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post #198 of 1008 Old 09-10-2011, 02:09 AM
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Mate - let me know if you ever need a hand - happy to pop round for a few hours to labour for you......off to the in-laws tomorrow for lunch so that's no good....

I know how hard it can be doing this crap on your own, another pair of hands make quick work of it. Always happy to lend a hand, time permitting, just sing out.

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post #199 of 1008 Old 09-10-2011, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks very much Peter. Really appreciate your offer. It's my mess.... I better clean it up. Once I do get the room back to bare bones come over for a beer and we can brainstorm / plan / torture ourselves/ pre drill! Cheers mate. Greg

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post #200 of 1008 Old 09-13-2011, 02:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Two 6x4 trailer loads of drywall, 11 garbage bags of blown insulation (and that's just what fell out of the roof!), four hours of lugging waste outside, two Oxycontins (God bless prescription pain relief for back pain) and finally the room is clear. Won't be wanting to do that job again in a hurry. Took a photo tonight, 24 hours after finishing and it's still really dusty in there. Electrician will be here Thursday afternoon to take down the split system air-conditioner so that I can double drywall before remounting. Now I just need to pull out all of the old nails from the timbers and I am ready to get going. Here are some pictures from tonight. Sorry, but the dust is still a nightmare in there (even though you can't see it without using a flash).







Ordered lumber today. Silly me for thinking the majority of my money had been spent so far. Ordered some 19mm particle board for the subfloor, some 90x45mm pine for the side stud wall and some extra particle board for the riser cover. $1200 kaaaaching! Oh well, it's only money. Also needed some balustrades for the outside decking so it wasn't that bad.

Have decided that I am going to have a crack at drywalling myself (with the help of a couple of friends. (Don't worry Peter, you will get plenty of notice!) Finish doesn't need to be perfect, as I will be fabric lining the entire room. Best quote was about $1000 to do double drywall. That was two guys for two days, including the messing around with hat channel and GG. Figured that I could have a go at it. Would rather swear, drink beer and curse with friends than alone or pay someone else to swear and curse! Can borrow a drywall lift or pick one up for not much on Fleabay. Have a fair bit of work before I close those walls up in any case.

OK, so for todays question. I will be using double 16mm drywall, Green Glue and GG Whisper clips. What drywall screws do most people use here for double drywall applications? I understand that the first layer screws into the furring channel. What about the second layer? Does that just screw into the first layer of drywall or does it also affix to the channel?

So, framing starts on Saturday morning. Hope to get the framing for the stud wall done and maybe make a start on the flooring. Also need to finish off the rear decking with balustrading and get all of that squared away before I get too wrapped up in the theater room.

Would welcome any feedback....

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post #201 of 1008 Old 09-13-2011, 04:46 AM
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Run a box fan with an A/C filter strapped to it. That will clean up that dust pretty quickly. But get a good filter, not one of those that the dust passes through.

Are you going to stagger stud the existing walls too? I don't know much about isolation.

In any event, looks like you're committed now!

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post #202 of 1008 Old 09-13-2011, 04:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey there Tony. I will sort out the dust problem soon. The room is closed up so it's not spreading through the house. Will open those windows to get some air in. Was not intending to stagger the studs. They are on 430 centers and the two new walls are on 600 centers (24inch). I think I am doing enough with the isolation for what I hope to achieve without extra structurals. How's your build coming along? Marquee finished yet?

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post #203 of 1008 Old 09-13-2011, 05:01 AM
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Sure, turn the attention on my laziness.

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post #204 of 1008 Old 09-16-2011, 04:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Sure, turn the attention on my laziness.

Hey Tony, lazy is not a word that comes to mind when discussing your thread. Slow is one, procrastination is another. But the results speak for themselves mate... Looking great.
More work continuing on my theatre tomorrow morning (sat). Have all the old drywall down now, air conditioning head unit disconnected, furring channel has arrived, as has the particle board for the flooring. Hope to have the framing for the left hand wall done tomorrow and the floor also if I get time. Need to crack out the Green Glue after all this time. How exciting! Will spend some time planning out the electrical over the next couple of weeks. Have 6 art deco styled wall sconces which I need to run cable for. Nothing too complex like the GE systems so many use. Planning on a manual dimmer switch. Nice to be finally getting some work done after such a long delay. Photos to follow after tomorrow's efforts.

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post #205 of 1008 Old 09-16-2011, 04:29 AM
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Well, the procrastination is not what it seems either. Some move at the speed of light, I can only move at the speed of money. Money's been really tight over the last year, so I'm fortunate to have done what I have. Anyway, back to you. Isn't that why we're all here?

I'm not sure what's available for you, but here, Lutron (who makes GE) also has a remote controllable dimmer. I've had one for about 6 years now that works great. It's what I have in the theater right now. It's a simple dimmer, cost about $45 and has a remote or works with a Harmony or such. Much better than having to get up in the dark to get to the switch!

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post #206 of 1008 Old 09-16-2011, 05:37 AM - Thread Starter
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G'day Tony, thanks for chiming in. I hear you about the funds. I am going to push as much as I can with the funds I have and then just do a few things to finish the build as I save.

I agree with the dimmer. Not knowing a lot about electrics and switching, does the following switch look like it would suit?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/vi...id=40134542977

I have six lights. There will be two on each of the side walls and two on the rear wall. I imagine that a three gang switch would allow me to wire three banks of lights and adjust independently. Does that sound right? The lights are 240 volt, suitable for 60 watt globes each.

Thanks for any info.

Greg

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post #207 of 1008 Old 09-16-2011, 02:33 PM
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Howdy Greg

I haven't been on the forum much of late. Boy you sure had a mess pulling down the gyprock! Bet your happy that job is over.

When are you planning to put up the new walls?

And where did you stash those great looking recliners??

My recliners arrived the other day, finally. Not mad about the quality, but I guess you get what you pay for.
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post #208 of 1008 Old 09-17-2011, 04:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wilsonj View Post

Howdy Greg

I haven't been on the forum much of late. Boy you sure had a mess pulling down the gyprock! Bet your happy that job is over.

When are you planning to put up the new walls?

And where did you stash those great looking recliners??

My recliners arrived the other day, finally. Not mad about the quality, but I guess you get what you pay for.

G'day Jamie,
The gyprock was no pleasure. Been on pain killers and anti inflammatories since finishing that job! Had a really full day today. Kicked off early morning and finished up the handrails and small touches on the rear decking. Still a little bit to do and some painting but on the home stretch on that job.

Kicked off the theater about lunchtime and finished clearing the rest of the garbage out of there. Stud wall is up so the next job will be installing the clips. Lugged 10 x 3600 x 900 particle board sheets into the house. Bloody heavy stuff! That finished me up. A bottle of red later, at least my back feels better. Ah, the medicinal qualities of Coonawarra Reds!

Will be spending tomorrow with my son, who was happy to watch star wars episodes 4, 5 and 6 today. He was happy. Me less so but tomorrow is his day. Have Monday to paint the posts and handrails for the deck and make a start on getting the clips up on the walls. Don't think the floor will be a job for this weekend.

I have put my 58" plasma in the back room. Have a couple of couches out there and also 8 recliners against the wall. I am sure if there was a wife the nagging would be painful! No such problems. Hopefully it would only be short term. It's a bit cramped!

Sorry to hear that you're not thrilled with your seating. I guess the only positive is that they can be replaced fairly simply down the track if needed. Mine are ok. Again, you get what you pay for. I think I got a good deal and they look great. Didn't want them for everyday tv viewing. Will be great for movies. Love stretching out on the couch for tv watching.

Where are you up to with your room? Would love to see some More photos.
Cheers. Greg.

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post #209 of 1008 Old 09-22-2011, 03:06 PM
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Hiya Greg,

Building a HT sure can be hard work. I hope the SA red went down a treat !

Starwars 4, 5 and 6 huh. Well at least he watched the good ones. Have you seen how that genius Mr Lucas has "improved" the upcoming blu ray releases ? I think its a cunning ploy to make us keep buying them. Then maybe in a few years he will release the theatrical, non bastardized versions, and we'll all buy them again. I'm sure there will be a 3D release in there somewhere too! aaaarrgh.

I'm much happier with my lounges now. Although they are super hard, they are comfortable at the same time. And I am happy with the way they look. I'll post a pic later on.

Not much else happening in my room for now. Next job is the equipment room. But that might have to wait a little longer. I'm still working on the return on investment of the main room

Cheers
Jamie
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post #210 of 1008 Old 09-23-2011, 05:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Jamie,
Glad to hear that the chairs are coming good. Once they mould to you I am sure you won't want to be out if them.
I did take some photos of the room but the computer is buried behind a wall of insulation and I can't get to it just yet.
Got absolutely smashed at work this week so apart from a little cleaning up and buying some tools (bloody Bunnings!) I did not achieve much. Off to Canberra for the weekend and back on Monday for another hectic week. All my screws arrived for the flooring, whisper clips and drywall so I am going to make a start on getting the clips up on the wall and trying to get some of the insulation put away. Will be running wiring first for the lights and speakers. Purchased a remote dimmer switch from EBay for the sconces. Touch sensitive black glass panel and looks good. Oh, and I found a great place for 16mm Fyrchek drywall. About 7.00 per metre Inc GST. Needed 20 sheets of the 1.2 x 3 metre for the ceiling and 36 sheets of the 2.7 x 1.2 for the walls. Arriving on 10th September so my floor must be down by then. 1500 odd bucks delivered and that includes lugging it into my room. Would rather avoid that job!
Will post some photos next week.
Have a good weekend everyone. Greg.

Ps, rumor is that the star wars movies will bs released in 3d sometime in 2012. I will wait. My copy of Rio 3d, Thor 3d and the first and second series of Clone Wars on BD arrived today. Just wish I had time to watch them! Oh, and couldn't help myself. From Dusk Til Dawn on BD arrived as well. Love that movie!

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