The 'I can't believe you want the largest room in the house' HT build.1 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 06:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi there everyone,

Like almost every thread, I should start with some introductions but also with a massive thank you. It would be impossible for me to name all of the people who have helped me (directly or indirectly) with planning ideas, advice and guidance throughout my last 3-4 years of 'lurking' around these parts. Needless to say, I owe a big thank you to so many of you who have made my 'proposed build dream' a 'proposed build reality'. Thanks also to Tony (AVS Tony123) who has spent countless hours on the chat lines and webcam (and has undoubtedly caused me to spend my hard earned money on his recommendations) with his advice. Thanks also for lending his wonderful sketch up skills. I hope that I can swing a hammer a little better than I can drive SketchUp

So, thanks again. This forum is an amazing place of learning and a fantastic place to share ideas, advice and experience. I am humbled with the time that so many here are prepared to give to others with less skills / knowledge and experience (such as myself). I hope that I have learned a bit through my reading and research, but I am hoping that you will all be happy to fill in the gaps and offer any advice and feedback. I certainly claim no expertise in this field. Thanks in advance.

Next, I just need to tell you guys that I am an Aussie living Down Under, so if you see some of the more common words spelt incorrectly, it's not because I can't spell. We just do things kinda different in these parts. So, Theatre is Theater, Bass is Base, Mum is Mom and I am sure there will be a million others. All our measurements are in metres, centimetres and millimetres. Sorry, I will try to change that for you in my thread but if I forget, I apologise in advance. You guys really need to get past all this imperial stuff and jump on the metric bandwagon. What is it with this 5/16 stuff anyway!

Well, after building two homes in the last seven years, we are about to embark upon the construction of our third and (hopefully) our forever home. It is in the suburbs of Sydney, Australia and construction should start in the coming weeks. After building my first home with no home theatre and the second with nothing more than a small alcove containing a few inwall speakers, a 70 inch painted screen and Infocus X1 projector (it was an oldie!), I decided that the home that they will have to drag me out of will contain a proper home theatre. It has taken my wife about six months to come to accept the fact that the theatre does represent the largest room in the house. Hence, I have dedicated the name of the thread to my beloved, who seems to constantly raise this point!

Our block of land presented a million challenges and it has taken us since September 2009 to get to the point that we are just a day or two off from having the house plans all rubber stamped and we are away. It has a little of everything. For a start, the block is a battle-ax, sitting at the end of a steep 36 metre (120 foot) drive and behind another home. We have rocks all over (and under) the ground surface. We have a small 3-4 foot ledge across the centre of the block, up until a couple of weeks ago, a large tree sat in the middle of the building platform, it slopes from side to side and front to back. No career in real estate sales for me. It's not a great block but it's in the area we want to live and it does have 'potential'. Here are some photos from the survey...








And here is our home...



I will shoot through the internal floorplans in my next post (just in case you all doze off!), but I know what sticklers for full info you guys are. So, that's about it. My first entry of my first build thread. Thanks for getting this far and I look forward to following many of you guys along your own personal HT journeys.

Cheers

Greg

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post #2 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 06:42 AM
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Greg,

Congrats on starting your new house and theater. I love the style of buildings you have in Sydney. They remind me a lot of southern California, actually.

For your pictures, click on the image button (), then put in your image link.

That way we can see all of your images without clicking on them!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #3 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks very much for that. Still learning so I appreciate the advice. I will certainly do that for future posts. Thanks for the warm welcome.

Greg

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post #4 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, worked out how to post pics properly now. Here are the internal floorplans, both upstairs and downstairs. The reason for the staggered shape of the front of the home is that there is a sewage pipe that runs diagonally across what would normally be the building platform. Did I forget to mention that????? So did the Real Estate Agent!

Downstairs


Upstairs (Theatre Level)


We really had to compromise on the theatre location, due to very strict council regulations. We have height restrictions with our local government, which has seen our home change from a dwelling with a high pitched gabled roof and a theatre room right at the base of the block to a flat roof home with the theatre now above the garage. Still, I have done my best to work around the issues and hopefully with the forthcoming work, we will end up with a great home and home theatre.

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post #5 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 07:43 AM
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Bass is bass here too, at least if you’re talking music. Also fish...
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post #6 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
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G'Day Whumph, that's what I thought, but I think someone may be pulling my chain on that one! Bass is Bass. Got it! Will be the first of many I imagine!
Have a great day.
Greg

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post #7 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 08:08 AM
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Hi Greg,

Congrats on the soon to be new home. Can't wait to see the theater!
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post #8 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Anjel, thanks very much. It's a really exciting time and I am looking forward to things getting moving soon. Kind regards, Greg.

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post #9 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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And here is the equipment list for the room....

Mitsubishi HC-6800 1080P LCD projector
Anamorphic Research 2 element prism A-Lens with astigmatism correction element
Seymour AV Center Stage AT material (enough for a 150 inch dia 2.37:1 scope screen)
Chief RPA-U ceiling mount kit
Sony BDP-CX960 400 BD disc Mega Changer player
Sony PS3 for gaming
Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player
Toshiba HD-A2 HD-DVD player (spare player)
Marantz DV-6001 universal disc / SACD / DVD Audio player
Pioneer CLD-D390 Laserdisc player
Emotiva ERC-1 Reference CD player
Emotiva UMC-1 preamp - AV processor
Emotiva USP-1 stereo pre-amp (2 channel listening)
Emotiva XPA-5 5 x 300W RMS amp (4 ohms)
Emotiva UPA-2 2 x 185W RMS amp (4 ohms)
Behringer EP-4000 plate amp (for subs)
Niles Pro 2770 LCR speakers x 3 (front Sound Stage)
Emotiva ERD-1 dipole / bipole speakers for side and rear surrounds (x4)
Danley DTS-10 Horn Loaded sub kits x 2
Buttkicker BKA-300 wireless buttkicker kits for recliners (x2)

Well, that's what I have so far for the room. Hopefully I have my requirements covered. I know that the 2 x Danley kits are going to be overkill for my space, but then I would rather have the headroom and the ability to let loose while the wife is away! I chose the Niles speakers as they were firstly, great value, secondly, highly recommended and thirdly offered excellent placement options with the swiveling mid and tweeter assembly (see pic below)



Room construction details to follow....

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post #10 of 1010 Old 07-03-2010, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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OK guys, this is an option for the proposed layout of the room. Basically, I have a room that sits atop the garage of our new home. It will measure 18.5 feet long x 15 feet wide x 8 feet high and also has a separate equipment room which should be more than adequate to hold my equipment stands. Entry will be by a two (exterior grade solid) door system to eliminate as much sound leakage as possible. The room will have a reasonable level of sound isolation built in (green Glue, double 5/8" drywall and GG clips for all walls, ceiling and Green Glue on the subfloor).

The plans will be a little different than what we are ending up with. The builder will now be supplying a single door to the equipment closet. This is something that showed up when the room was drawn with Sketchup (thanks again Tony!). Apart from that, it is all pretty much as the plans are. I am looking to build a false wall, approximately 20-24 inches in depth on the left hand wall (the Danleys are 16 inches thick and I need to leave some room for wall treatments). The false wall will be covered entirely by the screen and black acoustically transparent material from a local supplier here in Australia (RIM Fabrics Trilogy One range).

At the other end of the room will be a 6 foot deep riser, between 10-12 inches in height (to be calculated still) and two rows of 4 recliners, giving us seating for eight. I know that we are trying to fit a fair bit into a medium sized room, but that is all that I have to work with. Here are some Sketches of what I am thinking...









Here are the recliners that we have. We have two rows of these, in this colour. Apologies for the poor quality scan



The windows will be plugged with multiple layers of GG and then covered with fabric. I have not decided on any internal sound treatments yet. I know that many over there use Linacoustic but I cannot find it over here and as soon as you mention Home Theatre over here, prices just skyrocket. This is very much a limited budget project.

So, over to you guys now. This is the general plan at this point. I guess there are more options out there than I have considered. The main limiting factors that I have are the length of the room and how it affects the A-Lens and the placement of the Danleys. My preference would be for them to be put behind the front wall. There is the option to build them into the riser, but then it would be very high (about 17-18 inches high) and I only have 8 foot (2440mm) ceilings.

I had not really considered building soffits in the room, as I feel that they would encroach upon the limited space that I have. I have purchased 6 art deco themed sconce lights, which I will dig up and post. Actually came from a fellow AVS'er who lives in Melbourne. Hopefully they will illuminate the room enough for it's purpose. Don't want to use downlights as I am trying to minimise the amount of holes in the drywall to reduce sound leakage.

Any opinions of the layout would be warmly welcomed.
Thanks
Greg.

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post #11 of 1010 Old 07-04-2010, 02:35 AM
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G'day, G'day!

Glad to see things are coming along (I am so jealous, your's is bigger than mine )

Given that you'll be living 1km away we'll have to compare notes on completion.....speaking of which I'll not be happy if you finish your entire house and theatre before I finish mine!

Where'd you get those seats?

Cheers,

Peter the Greek

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Redefining snail pace construction
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post #12 of 1010 Old 07-04-2010, 03:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi there Peter,
Fancy seeing you on here! We are forced to use a US website to chat when we live 5 streets away...

Relax mate..it's not all about the size I think that you will have about a 3 month start on me so there are absolutely no excuses. As long as you get Loganed before me I will be happy! I can't imagine that I will be finished before you. Better still, lets see who loses by running out of money first. That could be the challenge. You may win that one as well! Does comparing notes involve Beer??? If so, I am in!!!!!

BTW, would you believe that the seats actually came from John Cootes Furniture at Tuggerah. Not overly expensive at $1500 for the row and they are very comfortable. I looked at some of the local dedicated HT brands and they are about triple the price. All being well, and being that I don't spend too much money (which has long since passed according to she who rules the roost), I don't figure on sleeping in the theatre so they will be fine. Actually pretty happy with them for the money.

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post #13 of 1010 Old 07-04-2010, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingaling2004 View Post

We are forced to use a US website to chat when we live 5 streets away...

It doesn't help the Aussie "versions" of AVS think in wall car speakers are still a good idea....or that spending more than 20 bucks on AT is a waste of time

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As long as you get Loganed before me I will be happy!

I dont know how I have avoided that to date - is there a criteria, or do you have to be nominated for such a designation?

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I can't imagine that I will be finished before you. Better still, lets see who loses by running out of money first. That could be the challenge.

Been there, actually I might pull it off before you - it took a good 6 months after we moved in before I even thought about starting.....oh the pain, at least you ge a new house after it - its worth it!

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Does comparing notes involve Beer??? If so, I am in!!!!!

I think we can arrange that - Blue Gum is the best pub in the area, FWIW

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Not overly expensive at $1500 for the row and they are very comfortable.

Thats heaps cheap, we've been looking at two Topforms, but at about $2k a pop, its not cheap

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post #14 of 1010 Old 07-05-2010, 01:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Peter,
I guess that, like everything, you get what you pay for. The Topforms are probably a lifelong investment and of a significantly better quality, but I figured that these chairs will be used maybe 3-6 hrs per week tops, and they should last a while at that rate. I actually wanted to put genuine theatre seats in the room (2 rows of 5) which actually would have cost a lot less than I spent, but the boss told me that she wanted to be comfortable so we got the recliners. I am happy with the choice.
C'mon Peter, you have had 24 hrs to critique my plans. You gotta come up with something wrong!
Regards
Greg

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post #15 of 1010 Old 07-05-2010, 05:38 AM
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Hmm feedback, ok.....well - like me you're obviously trying to maximise seating, having a row against the back wall isn't a good idea - I'd drag them forward as much as you can, even if it means they cant recline, it'll sound better

I think you're going to need additional subs, even with the Danleys (I'm so jealous....this Vaf thing of mine had better live up to the hype...hey they build speakers flat at 19hz this has gotta be good right?)

Think about treatment - especially in the riser, you cant change that easily. I'd pay to have it designed as a trap, even if you get nothing else done.

PS. Laser Disk - you're showing your age

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post #16 of 1010 Old 07-05-2010, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi there Peter,

Thanks for the feedback mate. I agree that moving the seats off the wall will give much better sound. I think from memory the seats are only about 4 - 4.5 feet deep even with the foot rest up, so a six foot riser should be OK to still have them off the wall, even if it's only a foot or just over off the rear wall. I will move them as far forward as possible. If I need to add a little depth to the riser I will. I have a feeling that the screen will be smaller in size than originally planned, so viewing angles can be maintained by moving the front row forward just a little. I guess a lot is going to be worked out once I can get the seats into the room and actually watch a few programs and see what viewing angles suit us, how the projector and lens work at different sizes and what just looks 'right'.

With regards to the riser, I was planning to stuff it to capacity with R3.5 fibreglass batts to quieten it down (I have about 8 large bags filling up my garage from the failed insulation scheme sell-off). I have read a little about drilling through the joists but I am unsure as to how that will achieve any effect. There must be some but any ideas would be welcome. Would there be a noticeable improvement in room acoustics by doing this? Also, can you give me an idea how much that acoustic matting cost you that you used under your stud walls. Would it be of benefit to use that under the stage (which is where the Danleys will most likely be located)?

I think that I will work out the other acoustic treatments a little further into the project. I see all these great theatres on here with the OC703 bass traps. I think our equivalent is the Ultratel but I am not sure if the budget would stretch to doing the front wall and bass traps in that material. It's about $100 a piece. OUCH!

And go easy on the Laserdisc ribbing. Part of me really misses spending 80 bucks on a movie. Not sure which part but I am sure I have a few that owe me that much. I have the Star Wars Trilogy (4, 5 and 6) that cost $200 for the box. I still enjoy watching movies on LD. Call me sad but they have a certain charm about them. It was a real novelty in those days not to have to rewind a movie at the end. Ahh, the good old days!

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post #17 of 1010 Old 07-05-2010, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, me back again with a question. I am not far off having to let the builder know about building materials for the HT. This is the plan so far:

I have tried to encompass as much in the design as I know for stopping sound exiting the room. It is important that this is an area that I can go to and watch movies at a time that suits me and not upset other members of the family and neighbours. I have an understanding wife (most of the time!) and a 3yo boy who goes to bed early. I work shift work, so I am often watching at odd hours. In line with the various constraints that I had with regards to Council height requirements, the need to have windows incorporated into the plans and space limitations, I have managed to incorporate a double door arrangement, which will hopefully reduce significantly any sound leakage through this means. The doors will be solid core, exterior grade and I will be sealing them on the bottom of the door with a standard rubber door seal (something simple).

I have also managed to incorporate an air space between the Home Theatre wall and bedroom 4. What would be the recommended material to line this cavity to provide the greatest sound insulation and prevent noise travelling into that room from the HT?

I have designed the Master Bedroom so that one of the Walk in Robes is adjoining the HT. I anticipate using a solid core sliding cavity door on this WIR to further reduce sound transmission into the Master Bedroom.

The Equipment room will have a single exterior grade solid core door to reduce the noise from equipment fans entering the HT.

Other factors in the proposed design:

*Standard construction 2 x 4 wall studs
*All walls and the ceiling within the home theatre and the equipment room will be
mounted on Whisper Clips.
*Walls and ceiling will be double drywall layered with Green Glue.
*Windows will be plugged with multiple layers of drywall with Green Glue.
*The floor will be double skinned with Green Glue to stop sound leakage to the
garage and through the subfloor into other rooms. Floor will be carpeted, using thick
rubber underlay.
*The whole room will be fabric covered (including the ceiling). There will be some sort of
acoustic treatment under the AT fabric (to be worked out later). I am using
FabricMate track (expensive but hopefully worthwhile - cost me a small fortune to
freight the tracks over here!)

First question at this point is what drywall should I be using. My understanding is that when using GG and whisper clips, it is unnecessary to spend the extra for the acoustic drywall. This material is quite expensive over here. I am hoping that 5/8" drywall (double layered) should be enough for what I am hoping.

Any feedback from you guys out there would be great. I am sure that there will be a million more questions along the way regarding just about everything, but I am going to need to specify building materials pretty soon so your advice would be great.

I am thick skinned, so please be honest. Feel free to comment on absolutely anything about the layout, plans, equipment choice, screen size, whatever. This project is a learning experience for me and I am hoping that, with your help, it can be a success.

Thanks guys once again. For those who have been in contact with me, I really appreciate it. Please keep the comments coming....even the nasty ones about me showing my age with Laserdiscs. Sorry, But I also have a very nice Coleco-Vision video game system and Atari 2600 in the garage if you feel the need to strike a real low blow. Cheers!

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post #18 of 1010 Old 07-05-2010, 12:17 PM
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Looks like it will be a great space.

I am using the Niles 2770s as the L/R/C in my room as well. I am very happy with them. I am also using the Niles 770FX surrounds, which I highly recommend. I am curious why you went with a diffeent surround manufacturer.
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post #19 of 1010 Old 07-05-2010, 04:24 PM
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Wow, slow down there. In no particular order:

- shearflex is $35 a sheet of 300x300. But no it wont help your issue. You need to isolate the floor somehow, otherwise your measures with the whisper clips will be wasted as the floor will flank the entire house

- give Embelton a call and tell them what you're doing, they're really good guys, they'll be able to tell you what you need - they have isolating stuff for floors.

- In terms of the gyprock you use, I'll be using 16mm fire rates BGC board, its cheap and high quality (yes, I know that sounds odd)

- Dont buy Ultratel - www.acoustica.com.au sell a polyester product which is cheaper, the dame density and you can sleep on it (i.e. no fibreglass problems)

- bass trap riser - you need to design the inside of it to maximise volume around the edge of it.....from what I understand, which might be wrong. Drilling holes isn't enough. You need basically something the same size as a HVAC bar diffuser opening(s)...I think I might have some info on it in my thread somewhere....yeah good luck with that

- acoustica also sell an isolation underlay, its not cheap, but I think I'll use it, but you will need more than that on the floor

- seal the whole room with Bostik 1, its the largest flex, fire rated sealant you can buy in Oz.

Have a read of my thread a bit more, I've referenced most materials there that are locally available, I've looked into densities, construction etc etc - save yourself the hassle

Underlay - if you dont go witht he Acoustica stuff you want thick felt, its better for acoustics, not so soft. DONT get rubber, it just compresses over time, even foam is better

I love the look of laser disks, it'd be great to see Starwars on one.....I've got an old ninteno somewhere.....plus a 128kb "word store" the size of an encyclopedia....need to toss that

Oh if you're buying tiles (and have a choice from your builder), the best tile shop in Sydney happens to be in Waitara, Ceramic Fashions, talk with Tina and Max - I cant speak highly enough about them....again, after 2 reno's and a build we have that one narrowed down. Bathroom products - WC Bath and Shower in Chatswood (they're the snotty version of a large plumbing group from down south). Reece in Artarmon are also good (nice assistants too )

Edit - do the whisper clips come with instructions, I read somewhere they dont work if you over torque the screws, another important, small detail

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Redefining snail pace construction
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post #20 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 06:42 AM
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Hi Greg,

I got your note and looking forward to seeing your cinema develop.

I'm also jealous, but not at the size of your cinema, rather the girl in the bikini on your 3D sketch... I haven't had one of them in my cinema yet

Cheers,

Chris
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post #21 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 09:09 AM
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I've never been able to get any women to watch a movie in thier bikini at my place. How do you plan on accomplishing that?

Adam

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post #22 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Edit - do the whisper clips come with instructions, I read somewhere they dont work if you over torque the screws, another important, small detail

Instructions are up to the supplier. We have our own proprietary SIMs for that. Over-torquing causing a reduction in isolation is not a concern with these clips.

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post #23 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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I've never been able to get any women to watch a movie in thier bikini at my place. How do you plan on accomplishing that?

Hi there Adam and welcome. I thought everyone here had girls in bikinis hanging around in their ht's. No? Must just be the Aussie charm then! Welcome mate. I have been watching your thread. Thanks for the great sound isolation questions.... I have learned heaps from you, Ted and others. Thanks again. Greg.

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post #24 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chris1971 View Post

Hi Greg,

I got your note and looking forward to seeing your cinema develop.

I'm also jealous, but not at the size of your cinema, rather the girl in the bikini on your 3D sketch... I haven't had one of them in my cinema yet

Cheers,

Chris

Hi there Chris and thanks for the comments. Welcome! Personally the girl in the bikini is just there as a distraction so that you miss all the problems with my build. I hope to see you round on here. Btw, how is all that gear going now in your room?
Cheers. Greg.

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post #25 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ted White View Post


Instructions are up to the supplier. We have our own proprietary SIMs for that. Over-torquing causing a reduction in isolation is not a concern with these clips.

Hi Ted, nice to see you here. Really appreciate and respect your comments. Hope that you will bear with me through this build. The whole sound isolation process has been a very steep learning curve and I am humbled by those who have so much knowledge in this field. Thanks for your input. Please feel free to critique to your hearts content! Regards. Greg.

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post #26 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Wow, slow down there. In no particular order:

- shearflex is $35 a sheet of 300x300. But no it wont help your issue. You need to isolate the floor somehow, otherwise your measures with the whisper clips will be wasted as the floor will flank the entire house

Hi there Peter. Thanks mate. Sorry for all of the questions. I just have so many questions and ideas going around in my head they all just pour out sometimes...
With regards to the floor, I was going to lay another floor over that supplied by the builder and use Green Glue between the layers. I was hoping that this would help somewhat in isolating any sound from leaving the room via this means.

- give Embelton a call and tell them what you're doing, they're really good guys, they'll be able to tell you what you need - they have isolating stuff for floors.

- In terms of the gyprock you use, I'll be using 16mm fire rates BGC board, its cheap and high quality (yes, I know that sounds odd)

Thanks for the tip on the gyprock. I will make some enquiries about this material.

- Dont buy Ultratel - www.acoustica.com.au sell a polyester product which is cheaper, the dame density and you can sleep on it (i.e. no fibreglass problems)

The price of the ultratel was worrying me. I will look into the acoustic product. This would Aldo be ok cut down for bass traps in the front corners?

- bass trap riser - you need to design the inside of it to maximise volume around the edge of it.....from what I understand, which might be wrong. Drilling holes isn't enough. You need basically something the same size as a HVAC bar diffuser opening(s)...I think I might have some info on it in my thread somewhere....yeah good luck with that

- acoustica also sell an isolation underlay, its not cheap, but I think I'll use it, but you will need more than that on the floor

- seal the whole room with Bostik 1, its the largest flex, fire rated sealant you can buy in Oz.

I will make some enquiries. Thanks for that.

Have a read of my thread a bit more, I've referenced most materials there that are locally available, I've looked into densities, construction etc etc - save yourself the hassle

Underlay - if you dont go witht he Acoustica stuff you want thick felt, its better for acoustics, not so soft. DONT get rubber, it just compresses over time, even foam is better

I love the look of laser disks, it'd be great to see Starwars on one.....I've got an old ninteno somewhere.....plus a 128kb "word store" the size of an encyclopedia....need to toss that

Oh if you're buying tiles (and have a choice from your builder), the best tile shop in Sydney happens to be in Waitara, Ceramic Fashions, talk with Tina and Max - I cant speak highly enough about them....again, after 2 reno's and a build we have that one narrowed down. Bathroom products - WC Bath and Shower in Chatswood (they're the snotty version of a large plumbing group from down south). Reece in Artarmon are also good (nice assistants too )

Edit - do the whisper clips come with instructions, I read somewhere they dont work if you over torque the screws, another important, small detail

Thanks again Peter. Appreciate your feedback. Tell me you've got bikini clad girls hanging around in your room! Give us all some hope! Greg.

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post #27 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 12:12 PM
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You putting in two DTS-10's? You are a naughty boy aren't you? I'm enjoying my one Super Spud immensely. Good luck on your build it looks like it's going to be incredible!

Television: Mitsubishi WD65737 DLP
Processor: Emotiva UMC-200
Amps: Carver AV 806x/Behringer EP4000
Mains: DCM TimeFrame 600 Center: AT 453C
Surrounds: AT 251.1 Sub: Danley DTS-10
Blu Ray: Panasonic DMP-BD655
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post #28 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks like it will be a great space.

I am using the Niles 2770s as the L/R/C in my room as well. I am very happy with them. I am also using the Niles 770FX surrounds, which I highly recommend. I am curious why you went with a diffeent surround manufacturer.

Hi there Dixon, I was fully intending to go for the Niles rears but then wanted to go 7.1. The Emotiva surrounds were half the price which meant that I could afford a second danley kit. Being that the Emotiva speakers were well regarded surrounds, I went for the choice which had the biggest impact. Glad to hear that you are happy with your 2770's. What are you driving them with? Cheers. Greg.

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post #29 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi there Flyng,

I went for the second Danley for two reasons. The main was after hearing from another user on the forum (Tony123) who had so many placement problems using one. From the very size of them, placement options are a little more limiting than other subs. He has found the second unit has brought his bass to life. Oh, and the other reason.... because I really, really really didn't need it! But at the price, they were a steal. Believe me that they cost not much less each to sea freight them over here.
Thanks for dropping by.

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post #30 of 1010 Old 07-06-2010, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingaling2004 View Post

Hi there Dixon, I was fully intending to go for the Niles rears but then wanted to go 7.1. The Emotiva surrounds were half the price which meant that I could afford a second danley kit. Being that the Emotiva speakers were well regarded surrounds, I went for the choice which had the biggest impact. Glad to hear that you are happy with your 2770's. What are you driving them with? Cheers. Greg.

I am driving the StageFronts with a Denon 4310 receiver. I have two pairs of 770FXs (side and back). I have never heard Emotiv speakers, but they get good reviews for sure.

I am still trying to decide on a pair of subwoofers to run with the Niles. I have space constraints if I want them up front on either side of the center channel. Looking at the new 12" sealed models coming from SVS. Would likely have a nice tight punch, but obviously not go as low as a larger ported sub. I'm not looking to shake the room.

Enjoy your space!!!
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