Star Ceilings... Painted or Fiber optics? - Page 32 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #931 of 960 Old 04-09-2015, 01:10 PM
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Hey guys I painted my ceiling the mouse ears black from Home Depot and find that every little thing you touch on it shows and all my little imperfections you see. I'm a pretty good painter but now thinking to repaint my ceiling in an eggshell black has anyone done this in black in an eggshell? I'm worried about the reflections from my future 120" inch screen. I'm then going to use nightskymurals stencil kit over that. Please help! Mike

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post #932 of 960 Old 04-09-2015, 01:13 PM
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Star Ceilings... Painted or Fiber optics?

The room should be complete I hope in 1 month but this is what the ceiling looks like right now.
What do you guys recommend for space for black lights in the soffit. I was thinking on putting up maybe 2 buy 2's painted black then the crown moulding to fit the lights behind this. What is everyone else doing or should I just charge the mural with a light on the ground and put rgb led lights in the soffit. Thanks Mike

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post #933 of 960 Old 04-10-2015, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
What do you guys recommend for space for black lights in the soffit. I was thinking on putting up maybe 2 buy 2's painted black then the crown moulding to fit the lights behind this.
Hi, I'm planning to do same with my soffits (i.e. UV light). What do you plan to use ? 2 black light tubes (like neon ones) or you found blacxk light led strips ?
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post #934 of 960 Old 04-10-2015, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by xzener View Post
Its about 10'X13'. I bourght 10 4ft, and 2' blacklights from slimflorescent.com.
This is cool and I planned a similar setup (but not sure about how many tube I need) so I do not understand what exactly you bought (I'm always confused by imperial measurements mixing feet and inches..)

either ten T4 tubes of 13 inches long (8 Watts) fitted with UV tube :

8 Watt Micro-fluorescent T4 Fixture
[SKU: T4-8W] Linkable Slim T4 Fluorescen


or you bought ten T5 tubes of 4 feet long (35 Watts) fitted with UV tube :

35 Watt Micro-fluorescent T5 Fixture
35 Watt Linkable Slim T5 Fluorescent Fixture (58 inch - Length)


??

Thanks
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post #935 of 960 Old 04-13-2015, 03:30 PM
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im beginning to think that black lights in the soffits are not the best option for charging the stars. My ribbon/ rope lights in the soffits BARELY reach 18 inches out onto the ceiling.
I think I am going to try to run wiring to my columns and have some sconce lights with black-light (uv) bulbs in there- that way I know they are actually shining onto the ceiling and can remain "on" during movies.
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post #936 of 960 Old 04-13-2015, 06:58 PM
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have some sconce lights with black-light (uv) bulbs in there- that way I know they are actually shining onto the ceiling and can remain "on" during movies.
Wholllly crap. Thats an excellent idea. I have a soffit just above my sconces that is too small for uv lights.

I would be using this type of bulb:
https://www.bulbamerica.com/products...V3rRoCnZ7w_wcB

The description says it gives out 370 lumens. I would be using 4 of these, 2 on each side of the room which is about 11.3 feet wide. I'm wondering if these bulbs in a sconce would be strong enough to charge the stars in the center of the ceiling. I'm also wondering what affect these lights would have on the visibility of the projection screen.

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post #937 of 960 Old 04-14-2015, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by quamosa View Post
Wholllly crap. Thats an excellent idea. I have a soffit just above my sconces that is too small for uv lights.

I would be using this type of bulb:
https://www.bulbamerica.com/products...V3rRoCnZ7w_wcB

The description says it gives out 370 lumens. I would be using 4 of these, 2 on each side of the room which is about 11.3 feet wide. I'm wondering if these bulbs in a sconce would be strong enough to charge the stars in the center of the ceiling. I'm also wondering what affect these lights would have on the visibility of the projection screen.
Mostly, it depends on your soffit specs. If you have inside trim, and the trim is pretty high or close to the ceiling, then you have a very small window for the lights to escape from. A typical tube light will show light omnidirectionally (Except through the backing of course) but if the tube is really close to the ceiling, it is almost impossible for it to shine directly on the paint in the center of the room in that case. So it needs to be low enough so that it can get a good angle further into the room. My soffits are quite close to the ceiling when all is said and done (The open space) and the tubes do not do a great job of charging the center, but they aren't really made to charge the ceiling, only to keep it alive or visible with the lights on. A floor UV lamp like the one here http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 will charge the entire ceiling by itself, but you don't want to leave it on during a movie. So you can place it on the floor to pre-charge for optimal star viewing and turn on the soffit lights if you want to keep the stars visible during a movie or with the lights on.

You usually aren't going to ever want any UV lights on lower than the soffit when you are in the room. UV light does not agree well with the eyes when you have to look at its source. UV lights are usually always placed on the ceiling, and even the strong ones are placed so high you can't see them. You may put bulbs in lower with the thought of charging your ceiling but then you would never want them on when you are in the room. It would be distracting and probably irritating to your eyes. Most people put them up in their soffits because they are hidden from direct view.
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post #938 of 960 Old 04-14-2015, 12:52 PM
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Star Ceilings... Painted or Fiber optics?

Do you guys think if I did a 2 by 2 painted black and then maybe 6 inch crown moulding braid nailed to it I would have enough room for a black light inside it. The crown would be 14 inches down from the ceiling. Here's a picture without no crown
Yet. sorry just noticed I posted this up here a few post aboveIMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/14/e355f886b0fd61d909959232309f903f.jpg[/IMG]

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post #939 of 960 Old 04-14-2015, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post
Mostly, it depends on your soffit specs. If you have inside trim, and the trim is pretty high or close to the ceiling, then you have a very small window for the lights to escape from. A typical tube light will show light omnidirectionally (Except through the backing of course) but if the tube is really close to the ceiling, it is almost impossible for it to shine directly on the paint in the center of the room in that case. So it needs to be low enough so that it can get a good angle further into the room. My soffits are quite close to the ceiling when all is said and done (The open space) and the tubes do not do a great job of charging the center, but they aren't really made to charge the ceiling, only to keep it alive or visible with the lights on. A floor UV lamp like the one here http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 will charge the entire ceiling by itself, but you don't want to leave it on during a movie. So you can place it on the floor to pre-charge for optimal star viewing and turn on the soffit lights if you want to keep the stars visible during a movie or with the lights on.

You usually aren't going to ever want any UV lights on lower than the soffit when you are in the room. UV light does not agree well with the eyes when you have to look at its source. UV lights are usually always placed on the ceiling, and even the strong ones are placed so high you can't see them. You may put bulbs in lower with the thought of charging your ceiling but then you would never want them on when you are in the room. It would be distracting and probably irritating to your eyes. Most people put them up in their soffits because they are hidden from direct view.
Damelon,
My soffit is 12 inches low. I have a 2 3/4" crown that mounts to a 2x2 on that soffit. When i hit the rope lights- they only shine about 3' max onto the ceiling. No way is that going to charge the center of the ceiling, where I want it most. I came up with the plan to put black lights in the soffit to charge the lights, but then got to thinking: why not have a reflector in the light, rather than a glass cover. MOre like a lamp shade and less like a lens, if you know what I mean. then all light is directed onto the ceiling and none of it shines in my eyes, or in the room. what do you think?? The lights would point upwards of course, rather than have the opening downward.

like this, but mounted "UP" http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...2a89f2_300.jpg
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post #940 of 960 Old 04-15-2015, 12:36 PM
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Damelon,
My soffit is 12 inches low. I have a 2 3/4" crown that mounts to a 2x2 on that soffit. When i hit the rope lights- they only shine about 3' max onto the ceiling. No way is that going to charge the center of the ceiling, where I want it most. I came up with the plan to put black lights in the soffit to charge the lights, but then got to thinking: why not have a reflector in the light, rather than a glass cover. MOre like a lamp shade and less like a lens, if you know what I mean. then all light is directed onto the ceiling and none of it shines in my eyes, or in the room. what do you think?? The lights would point upwards of course, rather than have the opening downward.

like this, but mounted "UP" http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...2a89f2_300.jpg
Yeah, I figured what you meant by the upwards bulbs. The issue you will have is that you probably plan to mount those to the wall right? Black light "bulbs" put out horrible light. In fact they probably won't do a lot of charging at all. Those screw-in ones are also known as "Party lights". Their UV wavelengths are also quite bad, so their reactive natures won't be the best either. Tube lighting is the best by far and why it is used in most of the end-solutions given. I'm not trying to be a downer, I think that in the end you would need so many upwards pointing bulbs that your room would end up looking silly, and you still would run into the problem of the edges being close to all of your light sources and none being in the center. Since the bulb itself is what is putting out the light, I'm not sure a reflector is going to really help you there much either.

You sound like you have plenty of room as far as distance from soffit to ceiling. If you had tube lights there instead of rope lights, it probably would work. Rope lights in general are supposed to be low-output lighting.. they just don't have a lot of power in them. I was actually incorrect the other day when I said that my soffit lights don't charge the center of my ceiling. My tube lights will/do charge my whole ceiling, they just don't do it as well in the middle based on the opening in my soffit space. It is almost an instant charge around the edges due to the proximity, but it just takes a while for the center to charge up as well, and the edges are brighter when I turn them off because the tubes are closer. That floor light I use is like a cannon, though, and it hits everything all in one go equally. I can probably get some awesome use of it too during October too. Still, you have now invested money into rope lights, and if you purchased tubes the way I did, thats about $500 or so (for my size room) to do all 4 sides of a decent soffit with tubes. Or, $200 for a single floor cannon charger. I'd make you sconce lighting what it should be with normal bulbs, otherwise you are taking away something you originally planned to be there. That's just my opinion though.
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post #941 of 960 Old 04-15-2015, 12:41 PM
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Do you guys think if I did a 2 by 2 painted black and then maybe 6 inch crown moulding braid nailed to it I would have enough room for a black light inside it. The crown would be 14 inches down from the ceiling.
A 2x2 is really small. If something does fit in there it might be tight. Remember a 2x2 is really 1.5"x1.5". Still, some people just use angled crown and rest their rope lights inside of the space behind it, so it might be just fine. If the 6 inch crown is angled and not straight up and down it would probably work. Just be sure to mesaure whatever lights you plan to put back there and ensure that there is enough space that it won't overheat (if the lights you get might have heat issues)

Make sure you wire switched outlets or something up there!. Something silly I wish I did was have the option to swing my soffit edge down like a sideways cabinet and snap it back up with clips or magnets or something, but that is sort of over-engineering. It's not easy to see over the top of a soffit when it is up against the ceiling if you have to do wiring or anything there in the future.

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post #942 of 960 Old 04-15-2015, 05:11 PM
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A 2x2 is really small. If something does fit in there it might be tight. Remember a 2x2 is really 1.5"x1.5". Still, some people just use angled crown and rest their rope lights inside of the space behind it, so it might be just fine. If the 6 inch crown is angled and not straight up and down it would probably work. Just be sure to mesaure whatever lights you plan to put back there and ensure that there is enough space that it won't overheat (if the lights you get might have heat issues)

Make sure you wire switched outlets or something up there!. Something silly I wish I did was have the option to swing my soffit edge down like a sideways cabinet and snap it back up with clips or magnets or something, but that is sort of over-engineering. It's not easy to see over the top of a soffit when it is up against the ceiling if you have to do wiring or anything there in the future.

Thanks damelon for the reply I was thinking about some type of 1 or 2 inch flat moulding on the bottom of the soffit and the bottom of the Crown molding attached to the one and 2 inch piece of stock wood so the crown molding would stick out farther and the blacklight tube would have more room to fit in the slot. For the wiring I have an outlet that i installed just for this and I'm using Insteon hub home automation outlet which is also going to be tied into the theater room for the whole room automation you could use them to turn them on and off through my iPhone as well. Here is some pictures of an idea about getting the black light tube to fit. btw nice ht room bro it looks pretty sweet. Mike

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post #943 of 960 Old 04-15-2015, 05:43 PM
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Anyone know if Jeff is currently traveling? My Home Theater professional has been trying to contact him in the last couple days to ask questions about my construction project.
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Anyone know if Jeff is currently traveling? My Home Theater professional has been trying to contact him in the last couple days to ask questions about my construction project.
i talked to him the other day, think he was home, probably just busy.
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Thanks damelon for the reply I was thinking about some type of 1 or 2 inch flat moulding on the bottom of the soffit and the bottom of the Crown molding attached to the one and 2 inch piece of stock wood so the crown molding would stick out farther and the blacklight tube would have more room to fit in the slot. For the wiring I have an outlet that i installed just for this and I'm using Insteon hub home automation outlet which is also going to be tied into the theater room for the whole room automation you could use them to turn them on and off through my iPhone as well. Here is some pictures of an idea about getting the black light tube to fit. btw nice ht room bro it looks pretty sweet. Mike]
eng there are some brands of lighting that definitely fit that space.infact on mine i did what damelon said, just used crown and the cavity it creates fits the lights just fine. i went with wildfire, pricey, but have had no issues w/ lighting up my ceiling. the ultra rail is thin, less then an 1" wide. im sure looking around you may find their competitors brand too and maybe cheaper? i did get a discount when mentioning jeff.
https://www.wildfirefx.com/products/...ultrarail.html
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post #946 of 960 Old 04-15-2015, 06:10 PM
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Thanks for posting this.... its a relief to here I don't need to add that additional wood to the crown molding. It looked like it was going to be a pain in the butt the install the wood then the crown molding. I must of miss the post about it fitting with standard 5.25 crown Mike

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post #947 of 960 Old 04-15-2015, 06:12 PM
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i talked to him the other day, think he was home, probably just busy.

I've been trying too along with emailing haven't heard nothing yet he must be on the road.

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post #948 of 960 Old 04-16-2015, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi everyone... I have been on the road, home, on the road and now home again, and I need to apologize to those of you who have been trying to get in touch with me. I had someone helping me with emails and phone calls, but I didn't have enough hours for him and he needed to find something with more. So losing some really good office help, plus helping my father with some medical issues (he's 91 and living with us)... I have fallen extremely far behind. Extremely!

BUT, it seems that I have seen a glimmer of light shining ahead and I have started digging into the emails. I also believe that my wife will be starting to help out with emails too (she's nervous about it, so please be patient with her. She is from Colombia, and speaks great English after 20 years here, but she's very self conscious).

If you can hang on a little longer, I will get to your emails. If you are needing to get in touch with me right away... please send me a text to (801) 599-9836
I don't answer the phone much, for a few reasons... but the main one is that it seems I get about 10 sales calls every day (usually from someone trying to get me placed on the front page of Google) and I don't have time for that.

But, if you'll text me... that is the quickest way to reach me right now. If you need a call, let me know. If you have a simple question... go ahead and ask. If it is more complicated, send an email and then send me a text to let me know about the email. I'd like to keep the texts for simple answers, or for people to let me know about an email I should look for.

Again, I am so sorry. I have fumbled miserably and am trying to recover it... but it's a really slippery ball!!

I see that former customers are getting most of your questions answered on here, so I will check back in a day or two to try to answer any that still need answering.

Jeff
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Hi everyone... I have been on the road, home, on the road and now home again, and I need to apologize to those of you who have been trying to get in touch with me. I had someone helping me with emails and phone calls, but I didn't have enough hours for him and he needed to find something with more. So losing some really good office help, plus helping my father with some medical issues (he's 91 and living with us)... I have fallen extremely far behind. Extremely!

BUT, it seems that I have seen a glimmer of light shining ahead and I have started digging into the emails. I also believe that my wife will be starting to help out with emails too (she's nervous about it, so please be patient with her. She is from Colombia, and speaks great English after 20 years here, but she's very self conscious).

If you can hang on a little longer, I will get to your emails. If you are needing to get in touch with me right away... please send me a text to (801) 599-9836
I don't answer the phone much, for a few reasons... but the main one is that it seems I get about 10 sales calls every day (usually from someone trying to get me placed on the front page of Google) and I don't have time for that.

But, if you'll text me... that is the quickest way to reach me right now. If you need a call, let me know. If you have a simple question... go ahead and ask. If it is more complicated, send an email and then send me a text to let me know about the email. I'd like to keep the texts for simple answers, or for people to let me know about an email I should look for.

Again, I am so sorry. I have fumbled miserably and am trying to recover it... but it's a really slippery ball!!

I see that former customers are getting most of your questions answered on here, so I will check back in a day or two to try to answer any that still need answering.

Jeff

No problem Jeff your busy I sent you an email friday if you want to refer to it. Also If you can have your wife send me back the link for the stencil kit PayPal link. Thanks Mike

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I really want to do this someday.
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post #951 of 960 Old Yesterday, 05:53 AM
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Hey guys, I'm about to order a kit for my new HT room. The ceiling will be black or at least close. What color are most of you using? Black, dark blue etc???
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post #952 of 960 Old Yesterday, 07:04 AM
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Hey guys, I'm about to order a kit for my new HT room. The ceiling will be black or at least close. What color are most of you using? Black, dark blue etc???
Most people who have home theaters have black ceilings... but in general Jeff recommends lighter colors in rooms that are dual purpose used in the light so that the paint is not visible when the room itself is not dark.

Some of the general recommendations are : if you do use black, don't use standard flat black as things like dust and dirt will show up and flat paint doesn't clean well. So if you do, look into something like a "Flat Enamel" so it can be cleaned. People have used other colors too, even colors like orange I've heard, and some have the star mural paint right over the top of a painted mural like a sky scene. This produces a really nice effect in a half/half situation where you have black lights on when there is also low light in the room so you can see the actual painted ceiling plus the stars together. The color itself can be anything you want really, but the glow paint might be visible on a darker ceiling if the room gets a lot of bright light.

In a light-controlled theater, where I have no recessed lights on the main ceiling itself, the paint is virtually invisible when it is not charged on my black ceiling, but you could notice the larger stars if you looked for them. In general, most people with dedicated theater rooms tend to have darker ceilings due to contrast and projection light spill issues with lighter colors.
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post #953 of 960 Old Yesterday, 07:43 AM
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Yeah, I figured what you meant by the upwards bulbs. The issue you will have is that you probably plan to mount those to the wall right?

Im grateful for your input, since you have all the experience with this. Damelon, I was planning on mounting them to the six columns in the room which protrude out about 12" each. do you think that will make a little difference. ?

Black light "bulbs" put out horrible light. In fact they probably won't do a lot of charging at all. Those screw-in ones are also known as "Party lights". Their UV wavelengths are also quite bad, so their reactive natures won't be the best either. Tube lighting is the best by far and why it is used in most of the end-solutions given.

Ive heard that the incandescant and the CFL style have different wavelengths and that one of them is more effective at charging the paint (though i dont remember which). Do you know ?



I'm not trying to be a downer, I think that in the end you would need so many upwards pointing bulbs that your room would end up looking silly, and you still would run into the problem of the edges being close to all of your light sources and none being in the center. Since the bulb itself is what is putting out the light, I'm not sure a reflector is going to really help you there much either.

You sound like you have plenty of room as far as distance from soffit to ceiling. If you had tube lights there instead of rope lights, it probably would work. Rope lights in general are supposed to be low-output lighting.. they just don't have a lot of power in them. I was actually incorrect the other day when I said that my soffit lights don't charge the center of my ceiling. My tube lights will/do charge my whole ceiling, they just don't do it as well in the middle based on the opening in my soffit space. It is almost an instant charge around the edges due to the proximity, but it just takes a while for the center to charge up as well, and the edges are brighter when I turn them off because the tubes are closer. That floor light I use is like a cannon, though, and it hits everything all in one go equally. I can probably get some awesome use of it too during October too. Still, you have now invested money into rope lights, and if you purchased tubes the way I did, thats about $500 or so (for my size room) to do all 4 sides of a decent soffit with tubes. Or, $200 for a single floor cannon charger. I'd make you sconce lighting what it should be with normal bulbs, otherwise you are taking away something you originally planned to be there. That's just my opinion though.

Im going to take a picture of my room with the soffit lights on, to show you what I mean by coverage. The center of the ceiling is completely dark and the outside are very bright. Maybe you are right though. Maybe I should just plan on mounting a light cannon into the bar/coffee table (whatever we put in front of the chairs).
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post
Most people who have home theaters have black ceilings... but in general Jeff recommends lighter colors in rooms that are dual purpose used in the light so that the paint is not visible when the room itself is not dark.

Some of the general recommendations are : if you do use black, don't use standard flat black as things like dust and dirt will show up and flat paint doesn't clean well. So if you do, look into something like a "Flat Enamel" so it can be cleaned. People have used other colors too, even colors like orange I've heard, and some have the star mural paint right over the top of a painted mural like a sky scene. This produces a really nice effect in a half/half situation where you have black lights on when there is also low light in the room so you can see the actual painted ceiling plus the stars together. The color itself can be anything you want really, but the glow paint might be visible on a darker ceiling if the room gets a lot of bright light.

In a light-controlled theater, where I have no recessed lights on the main ceiling itself, the paint is virtually invisible when it is not charged on my black ceiling, but you could notice the larger stars if you looked for them. In general, most people with dedicated theater rooms tend to have darker ceilings due to contrast and projection light spill issues with lighter colors.
Thanks for the reply. The theater in my Avatar was flat black. I never had any issues with dust or anything on the ceiling, unless I had to cut into the sheetrock and it was kinda stubborn to clean.

I see mickey mouse black , and midnight blue on here for ceiling colors that claim to mimic the night sky better.. I was just wondering if there's a favorite, if not I'll just get regular black.

I'm not worried about seeing the paint dots, the room will be totally light controlled and the only lights that will throw light on the ceiling will be black lights hidden in the trey (box) ceiling.
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post #955 of 960 Old Yesterday, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DrBabs View Post
Yeah, I figured what you meant by the upwards bulbs. The issue you will have is that you probably plan to mount those to the wall right?

Im grateful for your input, since you have all the experience with this. Damelon, I was planning on mounting them to the six columns in the room which protrude out about 12" each. do you think that will make a little difference. ?

Black light "bulbs" put out horrible light. In fact they probably won't do a lot of charging at all. Those screw-in ones are also known as "Party lights". Their UV wavelengths are also quite bad, so their reactive natures won't be the best either. Tube lighting is the best by far and why it is used in most of the end-solutions given.

Ive heard that the incandescant and the CFL style have different wavelengths and that one of them is more effective at charging the paint (though i dont remember which). Do you know ?

Im going to take a picture of my room with the soffit lights on, to show you what I mean by coverage. The center of the ceiling is completely dark and the outside are very bright. Maybe you are right though. Maybe I should just plan on mounting a light cannon into the bar/coffee table (whatever we put in front of the chairs).
Well, I have some experience with this... at least with building my theater and experiences and research done when buying lights for my room. So I don't have ALL of the experience, but hopefully I can help you make a good decision.

What I was getting at... take a look at the rope lighting from my original completed theater.




That is using the old style incandescent rope lights. As you can see by the photo, the red light doesn't reach very far. At least, the reflected light that you can visibly see on the ceiling is not. But that isn't necessarily an indicator of where the light "ends". The light put out by that red rope light was very low, but I was still able to see the rest of the room. So it may appear that the light doesn't go very far, but the light does extend outwards additionally because it ends up lighting the other objects in the room dimly.... otherwise you wouldn't be able to see at all.

I tore down that red rope light and replaced it with black light tubes. Now, if I were to take a picture of the ceiling with the tubes on, you would also see an area around the edges where the light is concentrated and obviously purple. But U/V lights are already straying from the visible spectrum and in general purple is already at the edge of the visible spectrum. So when you see the purple lighting, it also doesn't end where the purple ends. It just is where light tends to be most focused. Just as the rope lights, light does extend further than the visible "purple" and thus parts of the ceiling get charged beyond the purple area... just not as quickly and not at the same strength since the U/V is not concentrated as much as you get away from the corner. I even tested this the other day and turned on the lights for 5 minutes after a movie. Only 5 minutes. The edges were obviously brighter, but you could see all of the stars in the center, and the milky way was visible, which is just a dusting of paint all the way across the center of the ceiling. Thus, the soffit lights do charge the middle, it appears less charged than the edges though since they get so much more focused U/V light.

If I didn't turn on any soffit lights at all and only put the floor U/V light on, it barely puts out any visible light at all, yet all of the stars light up, and any white objects in the room glow immensely from the U/V reactive light. So it doesn't appear to cover much space visibly, but in reality it covers a large space and at a high intensity. In this case, the ceiling charges evenly, though since it is on the floor, it charges the paint on the side walls behind the soffit much more dimly (The opposite of what the soffit lights do) because the light basically has to reflect off of other surfaces to directly hit the paint in the soffit cavity. The combination of the two charge the ceiling perfectly.

As far as the bulbs go, if you already have the scones set up on your walls, buying the normal bulbs is very cheap, so a test would also be cheap to see if it works, but I still think you would get much more use out of normal lighting. You will want some sort of normal lighting in the room, and lots of times sconces are the most common way to light a theater room and I was trying to say that they would be much better off being normal bulbs, and you can charge your ceiling in another way.

When it comes to the light cannon on the floor... you won't mount the one I linked anywhere in a theater. It is huge and would stick out like a sore thumb. I just pull it out behind the last row of seats and set it up if I want to use it to charge the ceiling before a movie, but don't leave it on. The black lights in the soffit can be left on during a movie without really ruining the visible light in the room. If you are still in the stage where you are building your theater, and you really want to do the ceiling, I still think that using the soffit for U/V lighting is the best case. If you want to have a permanently mounted light cannon, then something like this http://www.amazon.com/American-Dj-Ca...v+light+cannon can be mounted under the soffit somewhere in the back pointing toward the center, but those lights take 15 minutes just to warm up... like stadium/gym lights. There have been some QC issues with them too. The one I have works great, but the size of it is made to be mounted to a club/gym ceiling way up out of sight. It would really stand out in a residential space, which is why I didn't mount it.

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Thanks for the reply. The theater in my Avatar was flat black. I never had any issues with dust or anything on the ceiling, unless I had to cut into the sheetrock and it was kinda stubborn to clean.

I see mickey mouse black , and midnight blue on here for ceiling colors that claim to mimic the night sky better.. I was just wondering if there's a favorite, if not I'll just get regular black.

I'm not worried about seeing the paint dots, the room will be totally light controlled and the only lights that will throw light on the ceiling will be black lights hidden in the trey (box) ceiling.
i did black and did the level 3 of stars. like you the room will always be dark except a few minutes to finding seats and honestly i see maybe 20. only the big dipper and little really, outside a few dots here and there. its not bad at all
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i did black and did the level 3 of stars. like you the room will always be dark except a few minutes to finding seats and honestly i see maybe 20. only the big dipper and little really, outside a few dots here and there. its not bad at all
What's a level 3? I just asked for enough to do my size ceiling. And an extra Oz of paint for a few more stars if I want. Are there different level kits?
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What's a level 3? I just asked for enough to do my size ceiling. And an extra Oz of paint for a few more stars if I want. Are there different level kits?
Not sure in regards to kits as jeff came out and painted my ceiling. level three is furthest from any light pollution, think like camping in the woods and stars everywhere, hundreds of miles from lights
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Star Ceilings... Painted or Fiber optics?

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Originally Posted by cdy2179 View Post
What's a level 3? I just asked for enough to do my size ceiling. And an extra Oz of paint for a few more stars if I want. Are there different level kits?

Yes for him to paint your ceiling from what I remember there was three levels 1,2 and 3 being the best more stars and constellations I may be wrong, this is what I remember from and old email from him about my ceiling. Now for you question theres only one stencil kit per Jeff's phone conversation with me about a week and a half ago.
Also for the stencil kit what he was telling me is there are the stencils for the constellations that you move and place around the ceiling (directions come with it how to do it) and the backer filler star stencils to fill in all the areas in the room. He was telling me with the size of ceiling I have there should be a few thousand stars up there looks like it's going to take some time to do. Ordering the same kit as you just waiting a paypal link. Mike

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...oot-boxes.html
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post #960 of 960 Old Today, 07:12 PM
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Thanks for the info guys.... A few thousand dollars stars... Wow.... I've got a 16x22 With boxed ceiling (13x19 inside box that'll be star field).
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