Home Theater Plan in Garage Space - 3D Renders! - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 70 Old 08-28-2010, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14

Image below taken April 2014.

 

 

Image below is Sept. 2012 ...before star ceiling installation.

 

 

Hello all, excited to finally start a "from scratch" planned home theater room using our garage space (24'x22'). Nicest thing about this space is only one wall is connected to the house and we live on 3 acres, so no worries about disturbing neighbors! There's plenty I still need to research (HVAC, sound proofing, etc.), but trying to get basic dimensions/layout figured out first. I've been looking through threads on this forum, but thought I would also post my own thread (seems to be the trend) and ask for some advice. I have created my current plan in 3D and have attached some renders.



Here's a rough overview of current plan -

1) Uses false side walls so I can have access for wiring and any future changes.

2) Columns for acoustical damping..cool looking as well.

3) Leaving speakers visible...doesn't bother me.

4) Whole floor built on small wood riser to enhance bass vibrations. Additional riser height for rear seating.

5) TV and Projector - Our current bonus room-turned-home theater has both a 70" TV and a projector with retractable screen. Having the TV for video games and regular TV watching works out great and saves projector bulb life, so planning on having the same setup in new theater room. Planned for 70-73" television with 150" retractable cinemascope screen.

6) Outdoor veranda theme with DIY fiber optic starfield ceiling.


QUESTIONS/ISSUES I NEED HELP WITH -

1) Raised floor - My current theater room is in a bonus room over the garage. I really like having the wood foundation and feeling the sub vibrations in the floor. Moving the theater room to the garage will result in a concrete foundaton, so I would like to build a wood riser for the whole floor. Is there a ideal height to raise the floor for the purpose of enhancing bass vibrations? My current plans uses a 3" tall base riser, with an additonal 14" height for second row seating. Available ceiling height is 9'3", so trying to keep the wood riser as short as possible.

2) Wall height - I'm using a room dimension calculator (Terry Montlick Labs) to figure out ideal room dimensions. For wall height, do I calcualte a average wall height based on the different heights that result from having risers in the room? As currently planned, half the room has 8'9" ceilings. The other half has a mix of 8'2" and 7'7" ceilings (see top down image). Using the dimension calculator, my planned room dimensions ride a fine line and easily come out unacceptable depending on which ceiling height I use.

3) Ceiling- I really like the idea of having the fiber optic starfield ceiling, but cannot afford to buy premade panels. I've researched the DIY approach and feel confident I can do it, but have limited available ceiling height. I think using a suspended ceiling will take up too much height, so considering installing 1 1/2" furring strips to the ceiling joists and then attaching panels (Cinetile or something similar) directly to strips. Has anyone used Cinetile with fiberoptic stars? If so, is the material rigid enough to drill clean holes for the fiber optics? Any other suggestions appreciated.

4) Bar- Looking at other theater room designs, I saw someone installed a bar as a rear row and really like this idea. Reminds me of the local Alamo Drafthouse cinemas where you can eat while watching a movie. Question is, will having a bar behind the main seating wreak havoc on acoustics? You can see the proposed bar location in my 3D renders.

Suggestions/advice greatly appreciated!!






LL
LL
LL


______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 70 Old 08-28-2010, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
One more image...showing space/component layout.
LL

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #3 of 70 Old 08-28-2010, 03:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
snickel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South central Kansas
Posts: 1,158
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Very nice are you going to do the work yourself or sub it out? I am a hvac guy and a plumber, so I can help
snickel is offline  
post #4 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickel View Post

Very nice are you going to do the work yourself or sub it out? I am a hvac guy and a plumber, so I can help

Thanks, I'm sure I will do a good bit of the work myself. When I say "start" I mean planning/design. This room is part of a phased house remodel...have to build a external garage first, so may be 1-2 years before the home theater building starts. We have a designer starting on the rest of the house remodel plans next week, but he is not very familar with home theater design, so figuring out the basics of this room myself...may have a professional help out with final design.

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #5 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 10:22 AM
Member
 
crimemastergogo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
What software are you using for rendering these plans?
crimemastergogo is offline  
post #6 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 11:43 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Stereodude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Detroit Metro Area
Posts: 10,049
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 596 Post(s)
Liked: 577
I'd look at something like Delta-FL or Dri-core for the floor if you don't want to loose ceiling height, but you don't want to build directly on the concrete.

I also wouldn't worry too much about those wonderful room calculators. They're generally too simplistic and made bad assumptions.
Stereodude is offline  
post #7 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by crimemastergogo View Post

What software are you using for rendering these plans?

I'm using Lightwave to model and render. A bit high end and pricey for a hobbyist, but I work as a 3D artist in the entertainment industry.

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #8 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

I'd look at something like Delta-FL or Dri-core for the floor if you don't want to loose ceiling height, but you don't want to build directly on the concrete.

Thanks, I did a little research on these sub-floors, but could not find much on using them to enhance bass vibrations. So, having a base layer of Delta-FL with plywood and carpet on top should give similar bass vibrations as building a wood riser?

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #9 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 03:40 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Stereodude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Detroit Metro Area
Posts: 10,049
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 596 Post(s)
Liked: 577
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalJackson View Post

Thanks, I did a little research on these sub-floors, but could not find much on using them to enhance bass vibrations. So, having a base layer of Delta-FL with plywood and carpet on top should give similar bass vibrations as building a wood riser?

I don't know why it wouldn't offer a similar effect, but I haven't gotten quite that far in my build yet to be able to confirm it for you.
Stereodude is offline  
post #10 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 04:40 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Elill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,460
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked: 20
You dont want to jam your L and R in the corner like that

Peter the Greek

Downunder Theatre MkII
Redefining snail pace construction
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"

Elill is online now  
post #11 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 05:08 PM
Advanced Member
 
dododge's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 518
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalJackson View Post

Planned for 70-73" television with 150" retractable cinemascope screen.

If my quick calculations are right: 150" scope (assuming diagonal) = 138" wide. At 10 feet back -- less than one screen width -- that's a 60 degree horizontal viewing angle which is really wide. I think THX considers 40 degrees the top end of their recommended range. 12 feet would get you to 50 degrees (which is what I'm thinking about for my own build). It would take around 15 feet to reach 40 degrees.

If 150" is the width of the screen then the distances increase.

Quote:


I really like having the wood foundation and feeling the sub vibrations in the floor.

You should look into Buttkickers or other tactile transducers. It will give a lot more feeling without having to actually shake the floor to do it.
dododge is offline  
post #12 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by dododge View Post

If my quick calculations are right: 150" scope (assuming diagonal) = 138" wide. At 10 feet back -- less than one screen width -- that's a 60 degree horizontal viewing angle which is really wide. I think THX considers 40 degrees the top end of their recommended range. 12 feet would get you to 50 degrees (which is what I'm thinking about for my own build). It would take around 15 feet to reach 40 degrees.

If 150" is the width of the screen then the distances increase.

Thanks for the reality check on screen size vs. viewing distance. It does seem a bit crazy to have a 150" (diagonal) screen and sit 10' from it. I currently have a 110" cinemascope and sit 11' from it. I feel the screen could be bigger at that distance, but 40" would probably be too much...probably feel like the time I sat on the front row at IMAX! I could probably go with a 50 degree viewing angle myself.

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #13 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

You dont want to jam your L and R in the corner like that

Now that I'm realizing proposed screen is too large for viewing distance, speakers will be moving away from the corners a bit. Can't resist trying to squeeze in biggest screen possible!

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #14 of 70 Old 08-29-2010, 10:22 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Elill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,460
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalJackson View Post

Now that I'm realizing proposed screen is too large for viewing distance, speakers will be moving away from the corners a bit. Can't resist trying to squeeze in biggest screen possible!

Easy to do

Do you have any equipment yet?

Tip - spend $600 and get a pro layout from Dennis Erskine, that way you know you'll get it all perfect and they'll advise on what type of gear you need for the room, not some crap from a dealer that has NFI. It'll save you time and money in the long run.

Peter the Greek

Downunder Theatre MkII
Redefining snail pace construction
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"

Elill is online now  
post #15 of 70 Old 08-30-2010, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Easy to do

Do you have any equipment yet?

I have decent equipment in my current theater room, but nothing too extravagant...hoping some of it can carry over to this new room.

The speakers shown in the renderings are my current ones - Atlantic Technology 350's for front, center, and side surrounds with 4200SR's for rear surround. For my sub I have a DIY HSU 12va clone made from 24" sonotube (my favorite component) powered by a 250w HSU amp. I also have a HSU TN1220 sub sitting around that just needs a amp. I have a Marantz SR6300 and using it for power (minus sub), know I would definitely need to move to external amps.

Also have a Panasonic PT-AE3000U projector with a 110" cinemascope screen. Of course, I want to increase the screen size in the new room and not really sure the Panasonic will be bright enough.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Tip - spend $600 and get a pro layout from Dennis Erskine, that way you know you'll get it all perfect and they'll advise on what type of gear you need for the room, not some crap from a dealer that has NFI. It'll save you time and money in the long run.

Thanks for the tip!

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #16 of 70 Old 08-30-2010, 09:20 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
If I decided to used a acoustically transparent screen like the ClearPix2 from Screen Research, would the TV behind the screen give off a reflection that could be seen?

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #17 of 70 Old 08-31-2010, 04:08 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
Dennis Erskine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Near an airport
Posts: 9,141
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Yes, it would.

Dennis Erskine CFI, CFII, MEI
Architectural Acoustics
Subject Matter Expert
Certified Home Theater Designer
CEDIA Board of Directors
www.erskine-group.com
www.CinemaForte.net
Dennis Erskine is offline  
post #18 of 70 Old 05-30-2011, 11:04 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Hard to believe I started this thread last August! Finally starting conversion of existing garage into home theater room in the next 2-3 weeks after new detached garage is complete. I have made a lot of design changes to the room since originally posting and will have to update with new images soon.

List of major changes -
1) Switched to fixed screen mounted on false wall. Idea of TV behind retractable screen is now out.
2) Front speakers on sand filled stage and behind false wall.
3) Soundproofing walls and ceiling using whisper clips, double drywall and Green Glue.
4) Audio equipment isolated in closet area.

Equipment/supplies purchased so far -
1) SMX 2.37:1 150" diagonal procurv screen (2K screen material)
2) Atlantic Technology 8200e speakers - 3 fronts, 4 surrounds and 2 642e subs
3) Danley DTS-10 DIY subwoofer and Behringer EP4000 amp to run it along with miniDSP for EQ/tuning.
4) Lutron Grafik Eye 3000
5) Green Glue, Silenseal caulk and whisper clips
6) 10 and 12 AWG speaker cable from blue jeans cable

Purchasing soon -
1) Marantz AV7005 preamp
2) Emotiva XPA-5 and XPA-2 amps
3) Anamorphic Lens

Using from existing media room -
1) Panasonic AE3000U projector...at least for the time being if bright enough.
2) Playstation 3
3) Logitech Harmony One remote

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #19 of 70 Old 05-30-2011, 11:19 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
To get the thread restarted, here are some images of the garage prior to construction starting.

In the first two images you can see the new detached garage. I wanted the home theater room to be detached instead of the garage, but my wife did not like the idea of having to use a breezeway to access the room.











______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #20 of 70 Old 06-16-2011, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Still waiting for other remodeling to wrap up before home theater construction starts. Some drywall torn out of garage, but nothing else yet.

I made a Quicktime movie that has a camera flying around the 3D room I created. Still images from movie also posted since most will not want to download a large file.

Movie link (right click and choose 'Save Target As...')
http://www.digitaljackson3d.com/Movies/HT/HT_360B.mov


______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #21 of 70 Old 06-16-2011, 10:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,122
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 57
I didn't see an anamorphic lens listed? If you're using a curved screen, you should also use an anamorphic lens, or the curve will just create image barrel distortion (the curve is there to correct lens induced pincushion distortion). You may already know that, and just forgot to list the lens - but just in case.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #22 of 70 Old 06-17-2011, 12:37 AM
Member
 
gareth_alien's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Portsmouth, UK
Posts: 66
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
When I read the first few posts and understood you wanted the TV as well as the projector and the speakers out front I was a little disappointed - but now you're going for the complete AT screen and the full sound-proofing route I can't wait to see this one started!
I noticed you said you were leaving the right hand side accessible to get to wiring then having the rack in the left hand side... which would have most of the wiring. Personally, with the space you have there I would put the rack into the right hand side which is larger and build it so you can close the door on it completely. That way there are no lights or fans to disturb your movies. At the same time you could probably fit a decent amount of shelf space for DVDs and Blu-Rays next to the rack there. At that point the left hand side would be empty so you could widen the whole space and probably fit some more seating in.

Food for thought and I look forward to seeing your progress.
gareth_alien is offline  
post #23 of 70 Old 06-17-2011, 09:53 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

I didn't see an anamorphic lens listed? If you're using a curved screen, you should also use an anamorphic lens, or the curve will just create image barrel distortion (the curve is there to correct lens induced pincushion distortion). You may already know that, and just forgot to list the lens - but just in case.

Yes, I just missed adding the lens to the list. However, have not done much research on which to buy...on the 'to do' list.

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #24 of 70 Old 06-17-2011, 10:05 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by gareth_alien View Post

When I read the first few posts and understood you wanted the TV as well as the projector and the speakers out front I was a little disappointed - but now you're going for the complete AT screen and the full sound-proofing route I can't wait to see this one started!
I noticed you said you were leaving the right hand side accessible to get to wiring then having the rack in the left hand side... which would have most of the wiring. Personally, with the space you have there I would put the rack into the right hand side which is larger and build it so you can close the door on it completely. That way there are no lights or fans to disturb your movies. At the same time you could probably fit a decent amount of shelf space for DVDs and Blu-Rays next to the rack there. At that point the left hand side would be empty so you could widen the whole space and probably fit some more seating in.

Food for thought and I look forward to seeing your progress.

I agree and actually have the equipment closet on the right side now in my latest renders...see red arrow below. I still have to leave the left hand space because the hot water heater is in a closet space on that wall along with the fuse panel for the house. Having the space also will help with noise since this will effectively give me a double stud wall...left side is wall connected to rest of the house.


______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #25 of 70 Old 06-18-2011, 05:18 AM
Advanced Member
 
KNKKNK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 872
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Liked: 76
Looks like a great space to work with. Congratulations.

I noticed in the last set of renders, you eliminated the Faux roof corbels from your soffit design.

IMHO they went a long way towards helping to create the illusion of an open night sky.

Was the change necessary due to size/height constraints?

My Basement HT Construction ~ Faster than the speed of Dark

"I've cut that piece 3 times and its still too short..."
KNKKNK is offline  
post #26 of 70 Old 06-18-2011, 08:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,122
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 57
What are you planning on doing with the garage door - remove and frame it in, or frame behind it and make it still look like garage from the outside? I've seen both done - for example, Sandman kept the garage door on the outside; I got rid of mine, and replaced with an entry door:





Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalJackson View Post

I wanted the home theater room to be detached instead of the garage, but my wife did not like the idea of having to use a breezeway to access the room.

Pros and cons either way I guess - ours was/is a conversion of 1/2 of a detached garage, so no attached option to choose. Advantage: less concerns about sound transmission; disadvantage: if its raining, won't get used - no breezeway (but doesn't rain often where I live, so not a big deal).

Edit: oh, also forgot to mention, nice to see another garage HT builder - renders look great, looking forward to watching the project take shape!
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
post #27 of 70 Old 06-20-2011, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Looks like a great space to work with. Congratulations.

I noticed in the last set of renders, you eliminated the Faux roof corbels from your soffit design.

IMHO they went a long way towards helping to create the illusion of an open night sky.

Was the change necessary due to size/height constraints?

Good observation on the missing roof corbels. I've been indecisive about whether to keep them and the latest renders were to test how I feel about not having them included. I'm also not sure I can get the blue rope light going around the ceiling to work with the corbels. It will probably come down to one or the other. I do like them and think they add to outdoor look I'm going for. They'll probably make a comeback.

______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #28 of 70 Old 06-20-2011, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

What are you planning on doing with the garage door - remove and frame it in, or frame behind it and make it still look like garage from the outside? I've seen both done - for example, Sandman kept the garage door on the outside; I got rid of mine, and replaced with an entry door:

I remember looking at your thread while doing research over the past few months. Great build and indeed good to see other garage conversions going on.

The garage door is going to be framed and covered with rock. The existing garage door was moved to the new detached garage and a side entry door has been added coming from the utility room to the breezeway/new garage. See image below. Drywall is being removed in old garage, so maybe this is getting ready to finally happen.


______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #29 of 70 Old 10-31-2011, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DigitalJackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 142
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 14
"so maybe this is getting ready to finally happen".

That's what I said my last post back on June 20th. Not much has happened since then because my contractor only shows up to work 1-2 days a week and there are still other house remodeling issues that are finishing up. I would gladly work on the room myself if I wasn't already working 12 hr days at work.

Here's what has been done since my last post -

1) Interior wall framed in.

2) Hat channel/whisper clips installed on walls, but not ceiling. Contractor actually did install ceiling clips, but did it wrong as well as the walls the first time. All the clips/channels had to be removed and started again.

3) New AC for room installed. However, ducts cannot be installed until soffits are built. Of course, contractor did not inform AC subcontractors about this and they improperly ran the ducts outside the wall. Ducts will have to be taken down and redone.

New equipment purchased since last post that sits around waiting for the room to build itself -

1) a second DIY Danley DTS 10 subwoofer kit
2) a second Behringer EP4000 amp for the additional DTS 10

The ceiling clip/channel installation turns out to be very tricky due to uneven spacing on my garage celing trusses. I have had to measure and model out the ceiling trusses in 3D so I could figure out where additional 2x4 blocking needs to be added to the ceiling to accomodate proper clip placement. Another issue I have is my ceiling will have additional weight with the added masonite board added for the fiber optic starfield ceiling and soffit. This requires my hat channel spacing to be every 16" instead of the standard 24". I will say that Ted from the soundproofing company has been very responsive in assisting me with figuring these issues out. Below are the images I have generated from my 3D models to guide ceiling clip/channel placement.

This one shows the existing ceiling trusses (gray) and 2x4 blocking (white) that needs to be added to support the additional clips.


This one shows the trusses with clips (yellow), hat channel (green), soffit (darker blue) and wall thckness (lighter blue). Clip spacing dimensions callouts have not been added to this image yet.


Images below showing room as it currently looks.

This one is taken standing at screen wall looking towards back of room. you can see the AC ducts that are improperly installed on either side.


This one is taken from entrance door at back of room.


I also had some issues with insulation resting against some of the hat channel. I installed some wire bracing to solve the issue. See images below.




______________

My Build Thread
DigitalJackson is offline  
post #30 of 70 Old 10-31-2011, 06:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,709
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 25
Looking back at your thread you mentioned you were worried about the star ceiling taking up too much height. My star ceiling takes 1.5 inches of height. (3/4 panel and 3/4 spacer) The documentation I received from FOSI said 3/4 gap is enough. I worried about it not having enough clearance so I added an additional 1/2" or so by using a countersink on the holes allowing them a bit more space to bend.

stockmonkey2000 is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off