***Working Man's DIY Dedicated Home Theater*** - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 649 Old 10-20-2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

So it was a evening of technical firsts for my dad. My mom on the other hand is better suited for the "Little House on the Prairie" days of technology. biggrin.gif
Regards,
RTROSE

Now that's funny.
When I visit my mother I chuckle when I see the VCR with a blinking clock...

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post #362 of 649 Old 10-21-2012, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

I finished running the ductwork for the hushbox today and specd out the ducting for the rack. The ducting worked out pretty well and simpler than i thought it would be......
Now i need to run the ducts for the rack and play with the PID controller to see how it works. Once i got a grip on that ill order the fans and hook it all up.
Sorry about the crappy iphone pics:
E2B0A80A-E781-4FA2-B7EA-F54895F4BD19-2154-0000036005F3D563.jpg
8E6ED6AB-FEB2-430A-B0F8-83B3EC469634-2154-00000360213CA4A8.jpg
Here is a shot of the duct and conduit running to hush box:
6150E6D8-EB35-4B20-A8F7-BE0ED44803D9-2154-0000036027ED1418.jpg
While i was up there working i wanted to reposition my subs, move and re-angle the mains so I took a quick shot with the "Hood Popped" smile.gif
I also repositioned seating.
Bad part: Now i gotta recalibrate and EQ the subs over......
7AF54EBA-18AB-46E0-912E-41F9A6FCAB2E-2154-0000035E61B16F61.jpg

Looking very nice, Nicholas!!

You may be addressing this in your attic ductwork, but do you have a return line going into your hush box? I may not have the term correct, but you need hot air (pull) and cold air (return), right? I only see one line.

Also, quick question of the glass mount. How are you securing it to the frame?

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post #363 of 649 Old 10-22-2012, 05:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post

Looking very nice, Nicholas!!

You may be addressing this in your attic ductwork, but do you have a return line going into your hush box? I may not have the term correct, but you need hot air (pull) and cold air (return), right? I only see one line.

Also, quick question of the glass mount. How are you securing it to the frame?

Java

 

Hi Java,

 

Thanks, it is coming together pretty well.

 

The projector box is mounted to a shared wall with the stairwell.  The hush box has a short duct in the back that sticks through the wall back wall of theater into stairwell.  This is the cool "supply" and the duct you see leading away from box is the "return" which leads to fan in attic.

 

I'm not sure yet on the attachment of the glass.  I always thought I would "glaze" it into the frame with silicone or something.  I could put an applique on the outside if the glazing was too hideous.  Any ideas?

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post #364 of 649 Old 10-22-2012, 06:03 AM
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I was thinking along the lines you were until I saw Dennis' comment on perminently mounting the glass in the projection glass thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1434061/projection-glass-optiwhite-vs-edmund-optics#post_22504033
Quote:
External frame for the glass .... good idea. Gluing the external frame--bad idea.
You want to be able to remove the frame and glass easily so you can:

1. Clean the glass front and back (finger prints/dust)
2. Easily replace the glass after you break it.
3. Easily get to the front of the anamorphic lens, the slide, and the projector lens for maintenance, adjustment, focus, cleaning, etc.

Maybe a silicone seal isn't too bad because you can "re-pane" it if needed. Any other option I can think of that isn't sealed, would kind of negate the sound damping benefits.
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post #365 of 649 Old 10-22-2012, 06:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Good point, i think having the flip down front might address most of those concerns, but IDK.

I hope Dennis posts back there there were a few questions still unanswered.
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post #366 of 649 Old 10-22-2012, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Fans came in today, so got them prepped:

5926494C-2089-4985-AC6B-D3D6C2CF3F52-1906-00000298A725C360.jpg

Heres a couple shots of the VCR chassis coming along....

D5422D9D-F5AC-4BCF-8AB5-322A0BF4FF84-1906-000002989F8278D7.jpg

B34A32B4-9BF3-4CF6-989B-29DD579C609A-1906-00000298ADE4C094.jpg

Lots of little things to do, its hard to keep focused. I seem to get pulled in all directions. Im estimating 2-3weeks to complete.
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post #367 of 649 Old 10-23-2012, 06:53 AM
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Nick,

Although I have not commented; I have been following along with your saga to get the heat / ventilation arrangement optimized.
It will be great if your current efforts can resolve this without having to go to mini-split.

Pretty clever idea of using the old VCR chassis as an in-rack controller !!

I'll be following along and wish you luck

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post #368 of 649 Old 10-23-2012, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Cuz,

 

Its a two fold effort really, heat and noise are the driving factors.

 

If the room is comfortable in the winter with the ventilation additions I will be ok without the mini-split.  I have found that I can keep the room cold in the summer by turning down the thermostat from 78(normal temp) to like 72.  However, I have fully prepared myself to go the mini-split route beginning next year if the heat is not under control.  My tax return is already spent.  biggrin.gif

 

Even if the heat is not fully controlled the ventilation of rack and hush box to another room will help out.  The noise floor will be considerably lower after the ventilation.  My equipment is very loud right now.  I plan on enclosing the rack with a glass door also so that noise will be completely contained also.  With the rack fans, PS3(Fat loud version), EP4000, and projector fans all running the noise floor is prob 10db above what it could be.  10db is a LOT!

 

 

This UPDATE for J_P_A,

 

I played with the fan last night and one of those ceiling fan controllers from lowes.  The fan will start even at the lowest speed setting and continue to run witout visible issue.  On the outside of the fan is a capacitor and I was not able to see any centrifugal switch which would take it out of the power supply line.  Therefore I assume its in-line all the time and doesn't drop out.  I don't see any need to slow it below the middle speed setting for my application.  When I slowed it to half setting the air flow appeared to be the minimum I would expect needed to move the air over the required distance accounting for frictional loss.  Honestly, I probably won't need to slow it at all the 240cfm seems about right. 

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post #369 of 649 Old 10-23-2012, 07:14 AM
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Good info! Thanks for the update. After some last minute changes to my ventilation layout I may have more fan than I need now, so I may end up putting in a speed controller.

BTW, if you want some serious nerd cred, you need to leave the flashing 12:00 on the VCR. That would be awesome!

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!


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post #370 of 649 Old 10-23-2012, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Speaking of VCR's. My dad called over and asked me to "tape something" for him. I had to chuckle when I told him that I have not actually "taped" anything for years. He then asked how I watched programs when I was not home. It never even crossed my mind that my dad had no idea that when I said I had recorded a program I had not "taped" it. This led me to say that I actually DVR'd the program which prompted the question "what is a DVR?" I then found a link and emailed him so he could watch the event live which was the presidential debate. I think it was the first time ever he had streamed anything online. So it was a evening of technical firsts for my dad. My mom on the other hand is better suited for the "Little House on the Prairie" days of technology. biggrin.gif

Regards,

RTROSE

Haha!

 

Yup, future generations won't know what the phrase "Be Kind, Rewind" means or that they used to charge a rewind surcharge if you returned a tape to the rental store without rewinding!!!!!  Gosh, I just had a flashback of me standing in front of the VCR waiting for it to rewind so I could put it back in the case.........

 

Or cleaning the "heads" with erasers!

 

Or pulling out a crumpled mess BC the player ate the tape!

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post #371 of 649 Old 10-26-2012, 04:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Good info! Thanks for the update. After some last minute changes to my ventilation layout I may have more fan than I need now, so I may end up putting in a speed controller.

BTW, if you want some serious nerd cred, you need to leave the flashing 12:00 on the VCR. That would be awesome!

 

Haha, that would be cool.  Where was that suggestion a week ago!?  I already trashed all the insides, although i did ponder keeping the power supply but decided it was too weak to use for any of my other DIY projects.  It might would have worked for a DIY pre-amp or something......

 

This weeks been pretty steady.  I started playing with Durham's Water Putty this week.  I saw it used in curved speaker cabinets as a filler putty for kerfs in bent MDF.  This is a large gap putty that doesn't shrink and cures "rock hard."  Man this stuff does cure hard, it doesn't hardly sand even....  After ventilation and Acoustic Treatments you might see this stuff in action with my DIY SEOS build.  I wanted to use it to see how it works and it works great.  I used it to fill in the odd shapes and gaps in the VCR face so its flat and presentable.  Maybe some pics on that tonight before round two of sanding and filling. wink.gif My biggest gripe with wood putty is it dries out before I use it all up.  This stuff is powder and you mix up what you need and the rest is good forever.....

 

4b9bc930-f38e-46aa-8295-82f065025d52_300.jpg

 

 

I've spent a lot of time with my crimping pliers this week routing wires in the VCR chassis.  The relays came in yesterday but the long thermocouple and the 24V alarms are not delivered yet.  Those are the last two items I'm waiting on to finish up the fan install.

 

Order of tasks to finish fan Install:

  • Install Relay board, Long thermocouple, and alarms into VCR Chassis.
  • Finish putting Lipstick on VCR face.
  • Final assembly and testing of thermal controller assembly
  • Cut holes in Rack
  • Run Rack ductwork
  • Install fans and hook up power
  • Tweak fan speed, setpoints, and other parameters.
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post #372 of 649 Old 10-28-2012, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Task List Update:

Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

 

Order of tasks to finish fan Install:

  • Install Relay board, Long thermocouple, and alarms into VCR Chassis.
  • Finish putting Lipstick on VCR face. Done
  • Final assembly and testing of thermal controller assembly
  • Cut holes in Rack - One of two cut.
  • Run Rack ductwork - On of two done
  • Install fans and hook up power
  • Tweak fan speed, setpoints, and other parameters.

38F7B253-BCA2-4B5E-8417-E8B946D0E5B3-5244-0000083501E0DA63.jpg

 

 

Chassis is coming along.  Final assembly is awaiting final paint to dry and the long thermocouple.

 

C7ED5F0E-C2DB-40F8-9183-17ECEA06D912-5244-00000834FB594D75.jpg

 

I forgot to take a pic while I installed the duct to the bottom of the rack, but here's an afterthought shot.

 

EA5C6091-6048-4AE9-8D16-1B4E44A1BDAD-5244-0000083432ED9EC4.jpg

 

 

Here you can see where I ran the cool air supply ducts into the stairwell leading up to theater.....  Not the prettiest grills but anyone on these stairs is on their way up to the theater anyways.  I wouldn't want these in my living room but theyre ok here.

 

4CECB99B-E261-41C6-AA52-D49C4A4CB298-5244-00000834249A76FD.jpg

 

 

 

Proof work being done.  ;)

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post #373 of 649 Old 10-31-2012, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

 

Minor Setback, it appears I did not understand the architecture of the relay board completely.  redface.gif  I quickly read the description and although in broken English thought I understood what they meant.  Apparently this relay board couples the contact voltage to the coil voltage with a transistor.  I assume this is to ensure the coil voltage is stable and the relay remains closed. 

 

Now here's the rub, the description stated a 24V contact voltage, but the actual relay was rated 240V 10A which mislead me into thinking the board would be "happy" with 120V contact voltage.  Needless to say that transistor which was expecting 24V Went up in a fraction of a second making a nice little bang, a little bit of spark, and let all its magic smoke out........  HAHA, scared the Shitake mushrooms out of my girlfriend!!!!

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSsgCizEGUFHYNs3Kmu0NKHhiYx-a4nPy6YBkZNkHH-ST-S4nuN

 

No worries, I had the controller chassis properly grounded and fused.  It took out the fuse and the transistor on the relay board.  Hopefully the controller did not suffer any damage. 

 

 

I am going to disassemble the relay board and in the spirit of Halloween Frankenstein the relays and terminals onto a through hole board, thats the project for the tonight.

 

Happy Halloween!

200px-Frankenstein's_monster_(Boris_Karloff).jpg

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post #374 of 649 Old 11-02-2012, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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So since I blew up the original relay board, I decided to do what any self respecting DIY man would.  I DIYed my my relay board from the pieces that weren't destroyed by my misunderstanding.  One trip to radioshack for a perforated board and some solid copper wire......and

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next we finish mounting that relay board into our SEEEEXY chassis.......

 

 

 

All Done! But Still photos are boring, want to see it all work? 

 

 

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post #375 of 649 Old 11-03-2012, 08:03 AM
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Nice Job!
I wish back in the day; that my VCR could have had that many flashing lights! smile.gif

Looking forward to hearing how well it works when hooked into your ductwork - hoping for the best!!

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post #376 of 649 Old 11-06-2012, 09:28 AM
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Nick,

Going a bit off-topic here: Just noticed some of your posts on another forum; the DIY sound group. Afraid I have also been infected with the prospect of DIY speakers, and will be looking forward to your SEOS activities.
(Just ordered 3 of the SEOS-12 horns, and CDs, for my spare time this winter)

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post #377 of 649 Old 11-06-2012, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Cuzed,

 

Yeah its pretty hard to look at the parts(SEOS) sitting in the box, so I put them into my attic.rolleyes.gif  I've got all the parts except the crossover components and hope to get started after the new year. 

 

Realistically I would just like to finish this vent project before Christmas.  Covering up the back soffit will transition me into my serious phase of Acoustic treatments since I have to buy the acoustic fabric to finish up the back soffit install.

 

Updated to-do list for finishing Ventilation install:

 

Order of tasks to finish fan Install:

  • Install Relay board, Long thermocouple, and alarms into VCR Chassis.  Done
  • Finish putting Lipstick on VCR face. Done
  • Final assembly and testing of thermal controller assembly  Done
  • Cut holes in Rack - One of two cut.
  • Run Rack ductwork - On of two done
  • Install fans and hook up power
  • Tweak fan speed, setpoints, and other parameters.
  • Install Edmunds Optics Glass- Came In Yesterday.
  • Cover Back soffit with Acoustic Fabric and fill with Roxul Safe-n-Sound.
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post #378 of 649 Old 11-06-2012, 11:15 AM
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Based on your checklist; I predict you will be in the attic retrieving your SEOS parts before New Years smile.gif

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post #379 of 649 Old 11-06-2012, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Haha, yeah right cuz, i wish!

Glass came in today and fits perfect with room for glazing. My GF is taking me hostage tonight though so no work until tomorrow.

1759FBD4-1EEA-45A0-8CA2-9B0210F02806-1080-000001385DA571BA.jpg
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post #380 of 649 Old 11-08-2012, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Theater is out of commission until I finish this ventilation install. That should motivate me to get this project done!


I had to pull all the cables and wiring from the ceiling coduit and re-route through the conduit leading to the back soffit and hush box. Since the cabling is now disconnected the theater is out of commission until I can relocate the projector. Relocating the projector is contingent on finishing the ventilation, so you get what I mean.


Tore the upper rack apart in preparation for cutting the last hole for ventilation.


Put one of the fans in the attic scoping out available real estate.


I can see why this glass comes so highly recommended. Its very trasparent and controls reflections very well. Its actually very similar to museaum glass for framing artwork but much thinner. At 1mm thick I had to be very careful removing the protective film as it was stuck on very well. It probably took like 5 mins total to remove the film from both sides.


Hers some pics of the glass install:


Put a few dabs of black caulk around the perimeter for the glass to rest upon.


BB08AFCC-CCB1-4024-9A6F-D99AE23BED5A-2238-0000031DADA23D2B.jpg


BB08AFCC-CCB1-4024-9A6F-D99AE23BED5A-2238-0000031DADA23D2B-1.jpg


Laid glass down onto dabs and seated allowing glass to rest on caulk for support. Notice how clear and reflection free the glass is! Some of the shots its completely invisible, thats good!


3926D80B-39DD-420A-8D06-B4CC55FCCE07-2238-0000031E4D0C9F27.jpg


00F298B0-16C1-489D-A3FC-92A6F3B1D428-2238-0000031E41ADEFFA.jpg


BFAB5B95-71A8-4FF6-9762-826F3C37E687-2238-0000031DE85F0C0F.jpg


Finish up glazing around perimeter of glass.


B2A8627A-44D7-4404-BB2A-364825498C44-2238-0000031E54198CE0.jpg
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post #381 of 649 Old 11-09-2012, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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UPDATE:  This weekend might be the final push to get the ventilation installed and functional.  Not pretty mind you, but functional.

 

Checklist:

  

 

  • Install Relay board, Long thermocouple, and alarms into VCR Chassis.  Done
  • Finish putting Lipstick on VCR face. Done
  • Final assembly and testing of thermal controller assembly  Done
  • Run Rack ductwork - done
  • Install fans - done 
  • Install Edmunds Optics Glass- Done
  • Cut holes in Rack - One of two cut.
  • hook up power to fans.
  • Tweak fan speed, setpoints, and other parameters.
  • Cover Back soffit with Acoustic Fabric and fill with Roxul Safe-n-Sound.
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post #382 of 649 Old 11-10-2012, 03:47 PM
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Looking really nice, Nicholas

It took me a while to realize the glass was in place in some of those shots. Crazy transparent!!
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post #383 of 649 Old 11-10-2012, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post

Looking really nice, Nicholas

It took me a while to realize the glass was in place in some of those shots. Crazy transparent!!

 

Hey Java!

 

Yeah its crazy clear..... 

 

Update I finished the install of the ventilation....  Oh Happy Day!  I am so tired of crawling around my attic.

 

A little adjustment of the "hysteresis" setting on the controllers has them coming on and off as needed.  The rack ventilation comes on twice every three hours for about 10 minutes each time..

 

The projector fan comes on and keeps the outlet temp within 5 degrees of what it ran free-air. 

 

The AVR runs at exactly the same temp as when I had the old case fan setup.

 

Noticeable reduction in noise with the projector in the box and the reduced fans in the room, too soon to tell about the heat as I havent spent enough time with it yet.

 

So far I'm stoked!  I'll put up some pics tomorrow, but one pic to show my misery today while crawling around attic....

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post #385 of 649 Old 11-10-2012, 06:03 PM
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Those are some very promising results! If this ventilation exercise solves your heat issue, I suspect all the time in the attic will become a distant memory quickly smile.gif

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!


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post #386 of 649 Old 11-10-2012, 06:55 PM
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Excellent - hoping for continued good results!

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post #387 of 649 Old 11-11-2012, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

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LOL. Picturing you in your getup crawling through your attic brought up an obscure movie image - Christopher Walken in MouseHunt

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post #388 of 649 Old 11-11-2012, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Haha Java thats funny!

Yeah, my GF thinks I'm certifiable, I think she sticks around just to see what crazyness i get into next.rolleyes.gif

I took a few shots to share from iphone.

First for anyone considering a hush box and contemplating the angle of the glass. I used 15degrees and have the projector very close to the glass. the reflected light just hits the top of the lens, so I might need to move the projector back a bit. No problem though plenty of room. Its sooooo much easier to setup the projector on its feet over a ceiling mount too!

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post #389 of 649 Old 11-12-2012, 07:57 AM
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Nick,
That VHS/ temperature controller turned out very well - nice job!
Also - just sent you a PM on DIY speakers....

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post #390 of 649 Old 11-14-2012, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

We're still alive, funds have been re-appropriated towards landscaping and lawn activities.


Here's a short list of things I want to do.....
  • Add Panasonic in-line ventilation fan to room to circulate air from down stairs and cool rack to downstairs.
Fan
  • Finish building out the last two 15" MFW subs

-Not that theyre needed but less distortion is always a good thing.
  • Finish building out room treatments. NEXT!!!

-Prob need at least 2 cases of OC703 not including bass trapping so prob more like 4 cases.
  • I Preordered some SEOS12" waveguides to re-do the LCR mains sometime in the future.......
  • Construct riser and go from row of 4 curved to 3+2 curved.

-Extra recliner is in garage really just need to build riser and mount projector on back wall...........


Unfortunately all these plans are big $ for a "working man" and will take some time but there is a to-do list for you guys to hold me to.


In the meantime here's a cool track someone turned me onto:

I moved the projector back in the hushbox about 2" last night so that the reflected light completely misses the lens. It seems to look better but I wouldn't swear its not an psycho-optical illusion.cool.gif

Wanted to post a quote of a to-do list I shared long ago, see I'm a man of my word!

I'm going to live with the current state of the ventilation and see if any further tweaks are necessary but it seems to work fine. I have spent some extended time up there now and will say the amount of heat that has been removed is considerable. During these cooler days I have been comfortable without fiddling with the HVAC thermostat at all. Heat buildup is virtually non-existent except for body heat which I havent noticed being a problem.

Now my next fun adventure will be ACOUSTIC TREATMENTS!! I decided to use Roxul safe-n-sound due to these perceived advantages:

  • Low cost
  • No FIBERGLASS!!
  • Easily obtainable through Lowes
  • Did I mention NO FIBERGLASS!!?
  • Performs similar to OC703 or Linacoustic
  • Cheaper

I ordered 5 packs of 8 2'x4'x3.5" Roxul safe-n-sound. One thing about this stuff is its floppy so everywhere it goes will need a frame. I plan to address the usual suspects responsible for small room acoustic issues including:

  • LCR First reflection points for side walls and ceiling
  • More extensive bass trapping in corners
  • Treat as needed Back and Front Walls
  • Measure modify repeat wink.gif
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