It's not small...it's "intimate" - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 45 Old 10-01-2010, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, my own dedicated theater build thread. In my head I hear the voice of Adam Sandler screaming "They're All Gonna Laugh at You!!", but I'll share
anyway and hopefully learn from your constructive criticism along the way.

This is something I have wanted to do since I moved into my place 8 years ago, but am just now getting around to doing it. I live in a condo, so I don't
have as much space to work with as some of you do on here. I do not plan on living in this place for the rest of my life, that said...I will try to make
the room be able to easily convert to a bedroom if/when (you never know with this economy) we go to sell. The room will be approximately 16'3 x 14'3 x 7'8. I have neighbors living on both sides of me, sound reduction (proofing) is high on my list. I do plan on using clips, channels, insulation, gg, dd, etc.
I am working on a limited budget, so I have come to the conclusion that I will have to cut corners in different areas. This means no super cool carpet,
or elaborate ge setup.

If/when I move to the "final home for me", I would like to think that I would jump at the chance to have a professional design and build my next home
theater. So...Dennis, please don't retire until I get that home and you build me my dream theater.

The WAF was zero on a stage, riser, and false wall due to us planing on selling at some point in the future. I'll have to figure out how to build a stand for the screen instead of a false wall. I am planning on having only one row, so not having a riser "should" not be problem.

Thank you for reading, more info to come.
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post #2 of 45 Old 10-01-2010, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is my floorplan. I have no clue how I am going to wire for 7.1. The hall really makes that a challenge.
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post #3 of 45 Old 10-01-2010, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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There is a window located on the screen wall. I plan to use a window plug to block out light and help reduce sound leaking in/out.
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post #4 of 45 Old 10-01-2010, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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The stairwell was a concern for me for sound transmission. I spent a lot of time in the basement before building just listening. The stairwell was the area that always leaked noise from the neighbors. My plan was to seal up the area under the stairwell and build a double wall to help reduce sound transmission.

This support beam was also a concern for sound transmission. In my head a compared it to a needle on a record player. (I don't know if that is a good comparison or not) I plan to build a soffit around it after drywall and insulate, and dd, gg.
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post #5 of 45 Old 10-01-2010, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Front wall framed
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post #6 of 45 Old 10-01-2010, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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DC-04 at work.
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post #7 of 45 Old 10-01-2010, 01:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Rear wall framed. Stairwell enclosed.
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post #8 of 45 Old 10-01-2010, 01:54 PM
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Looks good, Jon.

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post #9 of 45 Old 10-04-2010, 01:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Looks good, Jon.

Thanks Ted


Question for all of you out there. With regards to a xantech ir system...Do I need to worry about it receiving interference from lcds, plasmas tvs, cfls when I plan to use it with a front projector?
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post #10 of 45 Old 10-04-2010, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

Thanks Ted


Question for all of you out there. With regards to a xantech ir system...Do I need to worry about it receiving interference from lcds, plasmas tvs, cfls when I plan to use it with a front projector?

No, no need to worry.
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post #11 of 45 Old 10-04-2010, 07:36 AM
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If you're concerned, you can get 'eyes' that are specifically designed for use with the items you're worried about.

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post #12 of 45 Old 10-04-2010, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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No concerns. Thanks for the replies.
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post #13 of 45 Old 10-04-2010, 07:35 PM
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Does xantech have any options to work with a Universal Remote RF product? I really need to stick with RF as I don't want to have an eye at the front of the room.

Robert
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post #14 of 45 Old 10-08-2010, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I just had a "oh duh!" moment. I picked up my doors for the theater room that I had to special order, which took over two months to get, and not only did I not make sure it was on a exterior door jamb...I also did not account for my wall thickness.

I can imagine that it is going to cost me a pretty penny to take to a specialty door place to have done properly. As long as it is not more than what the doors cost originally I am willing to do in the name of "soundproofing".

While I am in the fixing my mistakes mode, what size stud should I have used for my door opening?
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post #15 of 45 Old 10-08-2010, 09:40 AM
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Just a point, you could install as-is and rip pine or poplar extension jambs

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post #16 of 45 Old 10-08-2010, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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I suppose that is an option. Would it be worth the extra work, money to do it with exterior door jamb?
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post #17 of 45 Old 10-08-2010, 10:22 AM
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Well, the exterior jamb with weatherstripping costs less than after-market acoustic seals. But they don't work as well. But that's probably not such a big deal. The exterior jamb will also have a metal threshold on the floor, which may have aesthetic consequences. After-market seals have a deployable drop down seal, so you don't have any hardware on the floor.

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post #18 of 45 Old 10-08-2010, 10:26 AM
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Quote:


The WAF was zero on a stage, riser, and false wall due to us planing on selling at some point in the future.

Given your diagram it appears as thought you are planing for an AT screen. If that is true, you should EASILY be able to extend the side of the screen to create a false wall that is easily removable/repairable when you get around to selling.

False walls are just that, false. They do not support anything. It should be VERY easy to build frames of 2x2 pine (ripped 2X4s or even use metal studs), cover with fabric (cheap speaker cloth would work fine) and just attach to the drywall ceiling using drywall anchors and whatever is easy in the floor. When you're ready to move, remove the screws, take down the "wall," repair the drywall, paint the ceiling and done.

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post #19 of 45 Old 10-11-2010, 04:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Tom, you are correct in that I am still planning some type of false wall. I want to figure out some way to do it without having to repair the drywall later on. Is that possible? I don't know yet, but at the rate I am going I'll have plenty of time to think about it.
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post #20 of 45 Old 10-11-2010, 05:10 PM
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Looks good, Jon. I'll also be building an "intimate" theater. Probably even more intimate than yours (unless I can talk the wife into something bigger). I'm probably a month or two behind you--just beginning now to put plans in Sketchup.

I'll be watching with interest.

Jeff
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post #21 of 45 Old 10-12-2010, 06:12 AM
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Quote:


I want to figure out some way to do it without having to repair the drywall later on. Is that possible?

Not that I can think of. There's going to be SOME amount of drywall repair, but I think that if you can keep it to filling in a few screw holes and painting, it won't be much easier than that.

That is, unless BigMouth thinks up some genius way to do it.

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post #22 of 45 Old 12-17-2010, 07:51 AM
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Jon

If you build a stage and riser for your theater they are going to be stand alone anyway so in fact they could be removed if need be by you or the person buying your home if they didn't want them in place.

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post #23 of 45 Old 12-17-2010, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

Tom, you are correct in that I am still planning some type of false wall. I want to figure out some way to do it without having to repair the drywall later on. Is that possible? I don't know yet, but at the rate I am going I'll have plenty of time to think about it.

You could perhaps just fasten the false wall to the stage, and not to the ceiling or walls - would probably be tricky to keep it stable though, and have clean edges all the way around. Maybe just a couple long screws at the top into the ceiling joists, wouldn't be much to have to patch later on.
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post #24 of 45 Old 12-17-2010, 08:34 AM
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Come on now drywall and paint work are simple fixes just build it and worry about it when or if you decide to move in the future.

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post #25 of 45 Old 12-22-2010, 04:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Come on now drywall and paint work are simple fixes just build it and worry about it when or if you decide to move in the future.

You guys are close to convincing me. I would worry about all the weight on the carpet from the sand in the stage (i.e. once I removed it to sell). But..I suppose if you vacuum enough it will look good as new.
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post #26 of 45 Old 12-22-2010, 04:50 PM
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Isn't 3ft of airspace behind the screen a bit much?

I would think you could it cut it down by 50% and would really open up the room and make it feel less confining.

Victor

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post #27 of 45 Old 12-22-2010, 04:54 PM
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I would rotate the room 90 degrees in either direction, looks cozy to me...

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post #28 of 45 Old 12-22-2010, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I would rotate the room 90 degrees in either direction, looks cozy to me...

There is a hallway 6 ft x 4 ft at the back of the room which would make it difficult to rotate the room.
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post #29 of 45 Old 12-22-2010, 10:33 PM
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post #30 of 45 Old 12-23-2010, 08:25 AM
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You guys are close to convincing me. I would worry about all the weight on the carpet from the sand in the stage (i.e. once I removed it to sell). But..I suppose if you vacuum enough it will look good as new.

Why would you remove it? If it's custom built for space, leave the stage for the new owners - let them decide if they want to remove it or not. Heck, it might be a good opportunity to sell if your existing gear at more than going rates and get an upgrade out of the deal
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