Bluffs Cinema Construction Thread - a Dennis/Pro Theater DIY build - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 176 Old 06-08-2011, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Started green gluing the HVAC supply joist cavities last night - Green Glue now smells much nicer than the original formulation I used way back when
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post #92 of 176 Old 06-08-2011, 06:58 AM
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The Soundproofing Company
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post #93 of 176 Old 06-08-2011, 07:03 AM - Thread Starter
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No less sticky though!
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post #94 of 176 Old 06-27-2011, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Drywall is going up as we speak! Will be nice to have a room again. In the meantime I thought I'd show some of the construction techniques I used on the ceiling.



On the left you can see 2 new joists I added, sitting on the new walls so they are decoupled from the ceiling joists. I used what is called a hurricane tie to tie them together securely. I attached 5/8" plywood to these joists to provide a solid mounting surface for my projector screen.

In the middle you can see an example of the whisperclip and hat channel. I installed cross braces inside the joists in order to recess them as much as possible - saved about 1" of height this way.

On the right you can see on of my duct mufflers inside the joist. Inside that joist cavity is double drywall + green glue around all 4 sides, with a 6" insulated flex duct. I would have liked to stuff additional insulation in there but there just wasn't any room with a 12" OC 2x8 joist structure.



In this picture you can see another duct muffler and more decoupled new joists - this time to provide a projector mounting plate. You can also see 2" ABS pipe as conduit for wires - 1 for power and 1 for A/V
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post #95 of 176 Old 06-28-2011, 08:22 AM - Thread Starter
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I installed all the electrical boxes tonight. Because the acoustic treatments will be 2" thick I bought exterior-type 2" deep round boxes for the sconce lights and surface mounted them, that way they will be flush with the final wall treatment.

Dennis specified that the wood paneling on the lower area should be angled down slightly. So, for my electrical outlets along the side walls I tried to find 1" deep electrical boxes, but with no success (probably too shallow to work in anyways). Instead I used 1.5" deep boxes and cut back the second layer of drywall to recess them, keeping the first layer intact and giving me the 1" protrusion I wanted.

Electrician comes tomorrow to wire everything up - It will be nice to have some power and light in this room again.

I must say - its pretty weird being able to move the ceiling up and down with your hands (due to the whisperclips and and hat channel)
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post #96 of 176 Old 07-05-2011, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, big difference since my last update - walls are done and painted, and I took the opportunity to move in Still lots to do in terms of stage/false wall construction, soffit construction, dark walnut wood paneling, acoustic treatments and fabric walls, as well as a mini bar in the back of the room, but nothing that cant be done without the room being functional at the same time. Here's a pic of what it looks like today:



You can see the layout of the room - the projector will at some point get moved to the ceiling and another chair be put in place in that row. I also have two more seats at the back of the room as a third row of floater seats. All this furniture I already owned - at some point I would like to reupholster (or possibly replace) to get it all to match, but for now it works fine.



Here you can see more clearly the wall color - I tried the best I could to match GOM FR701 Cobalt fabric color since this is what will be covering the walls eventually. Its not a 100% match but its close enough for the ceiling to look matched to the fabric walls once the dark walnut wood soffits are in place. Its unbelievable how much light this wall color sucks up - I have 5 100W lights in the room and it barely looks lit when they are on! Good thing I am planning 12-15 LED puck lights in the soffits.

You can also see the gap I left in my window framing in order to decouple the room framing from the window framing - I will eventually cover this gap with either caulk or a weatherstripping seal. I will be adding flip-down wood window coverings made of two layers of ply with green glue in between so that the windows are soundproofed when they are up.



My next step is to install one (or both) of the communicating doors/seal kits to the room so I can get a good idea of the soundproofing performance. I gave it some thought yesterday and realized I screwed up my door framing My intention was to have the inner door be able to open 180 degrees into the room (ie. flat against the wall), but as you can see from this picture with the 2 layers of drywall (plus moulding eventually) a standard projection hinge will not likely work. Worse, since the finished wall will be 2" deeper for the acoustic treatments, I'm way off the mark. The correct fix would be to remove this 2x4 jack stud and replace it with a ripped down 2x8. The easier fix would be to laminate another 2.5" of wood to the stud face with lots of screws and PL-premium I havent decided which way I'm going to go yet...
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post #97 of 176 Old 07-06-2011, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Decided to break the new room in last night with a movie - I was trying to wait until my new projector bulb arrived but its been delayed until monday and I didn't feel like waiting any longer

One thing's for sure - my A/C is working well - the room is friggen cold! (like 17 degrees C cold). It will work well for large groups but I'll need to block most of the A/C air flow when its just a couple people in the room. Its funny - I spent a lot of time during construction making sure the airflow was unimpeded by the flex ducts - maybe it would have been better the other way!

Next steps are:
- Finish framing out the rest of the stage
- Build some steps down to the lowered area (4" rise, 16" run)
- Install one or both solid doors and soundproofing seals
- build window covers
- add prescribed acoustic treatments to behind the speakers/screen wall
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post #98 of 176 Old 07-18-2011, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Small progress:

- built the steps down to the lowered area. I didn't want to install lighting in the stairs because I was a bit reluctant to install electrical below the grade of the rest of the basement. So, instead I got a little motion-activated LED nightlight and put it next to the steps. Works great - and the motion-activation is a nice bonus of this method. I plan to put some kind of reflective strips on the steps too for a bit of added visibility.

- Framed and installed the first of two doors. I made the framing as tight to the stud wall as possible for better soundproofing - the gaps are about 1/16", which I will hit with a bead of caulk to seal up. I got a set of door seals from soundproofing company - these suckers are solid! I need to trim them to fit and would probably be at it for hours with a hacksaw, so I think I'll go pick up an angle grinder to cut them down.

- Next thing is to build the window covers. I was hoping to find some euro-style hinges that open 180-degrees, but can only find ones that are "close to" - 170 degrees or so. Does anyone have any tips? Otherwise I'll just have to use a standard door type hinge.
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post #99 of 176 Old 08-22-2011, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Figured I'd bump the thread because its been a while. Not to much exciting to report, although its nice having a functional room rather than a construction zone!

Dennis specified the whole area behind the screen to be acoustically treated with 2 layers of Insul-shield with a plastic membrane between the layers (so as to not over treat the high frequencies). I was interested in using a cotton product and he agreed that 1.5pcf cotton is comparable, so I ordered 2 rolls of this:

http://www.titus-energysolutions.com...d=378&catid=43

The nice thing is this is bonded with foil on one side so that serves as the membrane I would otherwise need to add.
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post #100 of 176 Old 08-23-2011, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kromkamp View Post

Figured I'd bump the thread because its been a while. Not to much exciting to report, although its nice having a functional room rather than a construction zone!

Dennis specified the whole area behind the screen to be acoustically treated with 2 layers of Insul-shield with a plastic membrane between the layers (so as to not over treat the high frequencies). I was interested in using a cotton product and he agreed that 1.5pcf cotton is comparable, so I ordered 2 rolls of this:

http://www.titus-energysolutions.com...d=378&catid=43

The nice thing is this is bonded with foil on one side so that serves as the membrane I would otherwise need to add.

Cool. Looks environementally friendly. So you put them back to back with the foil in the center of the two layers?

Are you doing any of the same product on your side walls? I wonder if they have the same acoustic properties as 1" Rigid Fiberglass?
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post #101 of 176 Old 08-24-2011, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Foil backing backwards in both cases (so one layer of foil is against the drywall and the 2nd is in between).

I am still planning on purchasing the Quest Acoustics products that Dennis specified at this point (some are fiberglass based, some are plastic). I certainly would prefer an acoustic cotton based solution but the Quest products perform substantially better. At least the square footage associated with them is fairly low and they are out of the way for the most part.

That's a couple months down the road though - in the meantime I am going to use some of the cotton at first reflection surfaces.
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post #102 of 176 Old 09-08-2011, 11:02 AM
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Thank you for sharing your very inspiring build! I'm seriously considering lowering a portion of my basement in the same fashion because of it!

Question: Did you have to worry about/address lateral soil pressure from the other side if your basement walls? I've got 7' of dry soil against my engineered foundation wall, and it has been suggested that I dig out the soil prior to messing with the slab. Just curious if you had to do the same.

Thanks,
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post #103 of 176 Old 09-08-2011, 11:35 AM
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If you don't mind me asking, what did it cost to have the floor lowered like that ?
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post #104 of 176 Old 10-24-2011, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kromkamp View Post

Figured I'd bump the thread because its been a while. Not to much exciting to report, although its nice having a functional room rather than a construction zone!

Dennis specified the whole area behind the screen to be acoustically treated with 2 layers of Insul-shield with a plastic membrane between the layers (so as to not over treat the high frequencies). I was interested in using a cotton product and he agreed that 1.5pcf cotton is comparable, so I ordered 2 rolls of this:

http://www.titus-energysolutions.com...d=378&catid=43

The nice thing is this is bonded with foil on one side so that serves as the membrane I would otherwise need to add.

Did you ever get around to attaching this to your walls? I'm getting close to that stage of the game. Not sure if 3M spray will work alone. I'm guessing it would with the foil on the drywall, but not sure about the 2nd layer with the foil against the denim.
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post #105 of 176 Old 10-28-2011, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I did hang the acoustic cotton a couple of weeks ago - I could throw up a picture of what it looks like, but it doesnt look like much! Improved the sound of the room significantly though.

The lowering was approximately $9K, and there were no concerns with lateral soil pressure. Since I was only lowering a small amount of the floor and I used a bench wall, the lowering was very very simple from an engineering point of view.

After a couple months of other house projects (and just enjoying the summer) its time to get back to work on the room. I am ordering the carpet tomorrow, I'm going to use this carpet:





After the carpet is down, next steps are to finish the curved front to the stage, and build the false screen wall.
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post #106 of 176 Old 11-02-2011, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm starting to move towards building out the front stage and I've come to a bit of a crossroads as to how much wood vs carpet I should use. Here are the three options:







It seems to me that the third option will be just too much wood. I'm somewhat partial to the second option because it makes the stage pop a little more (I think).

What do you guys think?
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post #107 of 176 Old 11-02-2011, 09:41 PM
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Hmmm... I think I like option #3 the best. While it is more wood... It is also more detail which sets off not only the stage, but the pit itself (which is in itself interesting). If your transitions between wood and carpet are done well, this provides more opportunity to showcase the design. It will bring more attention to both the wood and the carpet. If you don't want to draw as much attention to certain parts... more carpet might be better... Maybe??
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post #108 of 176 Old 11-03-2011, 06:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I think it will be more difficult to put carpet on the vertical surfaces and have it look clean, so that's one advantage to more wood. It also makes it easier to lay the carpet out in the room (since I would have carpet seams at at least two of the edges of the pit)

I need to give more thought to the carpet/wood transitions. If the stage is carpet front then I will need to have a lip, since the curve will prevent me from simply wrapping the carpet down the front. I think I would prefer without a lip...
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post #109 of 176 Old 11-03-2011, 09:07 AM
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I like option 2.

Cool build, by the way!

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post #110 of 176 Old 11-03-2011, 10:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks!

The short term concern is whether or not to put wood veneer on the stage - it seems pretty clear to me at this point that's the right way to go. I'll make the decision on the side walls later.

For wood->carpet corner transitions, I'm thinking about this stainless steel corner moulding:

http://www.accuwrap.com/stainless_steel.php

I'll have to see if it has a little flex in it to install on the rounded edge of the stage.
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post #111 of 176 Old 11-05-2011, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Laying the carpet now - its looking pretty good!

One thing I will say - there were questions earlier on about the superseal all-in-one - I will say that it absolutely works with carpet overtop (no subfloor) - you cannot feel the dimples whatsoever.
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post #112 of 176 Old 11-07-2011, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Carpet is in! (Except I need to finish off those stairs - right now there are just random partial pieces there)

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post #113 of 176 Old 11-08-2011, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I've also been thinking about my wall color a bit more. I was planning on using GOM FR701 Cobalt color:



I color matched it to paint the walls the same color for now so I could live with it a bit. I think its too dark - I'd like to lighten it up. Has anyone ever used (or contemplated using) the Bayberry color?:



I'm hoping its not *too* light - it seems like a good tone from the sample swatch I have.
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post #114 of 176 Old 11-21-2011, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally got a chance to build and install the rounded stage front this weekend. Here are some pics:



Here you can see the technique I used - I scored 2x8's halfway through every inch or so to get a nice clean bend.



The finished front



And here it is installed. I Need to find some chunky corner moulding to finish the seam. I got some samples of the so-called "stainless steel" moulding and it turns out its just plastic and doesn't look very good. I'll probably just get an MDF moulding and spray it black.
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post #115 of 176 Old 11-22-2011, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
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One advantage to partially lowering the room - built in ball pit!

Here's what 2500 ball bit balls looks like. Our 18-month-old loves it

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post #116 of 176 Old 11-22-2011, 10:16 AM
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With a two year old of my own, I think the theater ball pit may be the coolest addition I've seen yet! A+

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #117 of 176 Old 11-22-2011, 01:53 PM
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That is...AWESOME!

Relevant
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post #118 of 176 Old 11-23-2011, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks!

Now I've been working on how to finish the wood stage front (and eventually matching wood paneling and soffit). Originally I was thinking a dark walnut but I'm thinking that it might make the room too stuffy, particularly with the dark gray carpet.

I've always wanted to try working with zebrawood, and decided it might add an interesting, contemporary look to the design. So I picked up a roll of zebrawood veneer to experiment with some finishing techniques.

My original thought was to try to match something like this in tone:



But I'm having great difficulty getting that dark tone without losing all the grain contrast. I've tried various combinations of wood stain, aniline wood dye, boiled linseed oil, Watco tinted danish oil, and dark garnet shellac. So far my favorite finish is straight linseed oil, but this results in a much lighter finish than above (and perhaps a little too amber/golden for my preference)

I like the look of the shellac as a finishing coat even though it might not be appropriate in a theater setting due to the high gloss finish it can produces.

I also need to experiment with different gluing techniques for the veneer (heat cure vs contact cement). The Heat Lock product seems ideal but I will need to join some veneer seams across the stage and I gather the heat process tends to shrink the veneer and pull the seams apart.
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post #119 of 176 Old 12-05-2011, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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After what seems like a hundred different color and finish samples, I decided to stick with a coat of linseed and then a clear shellac topcoat. Simple to apply and a timeless finish. The linseed takes the wood to a medium tone and then will darken over time.

I got a sample of corner trim I want to use and painted it black and it looks great between the wood and gray carpet, and gives me some of that contrasty look I was looking for.

I was going to upload a picture of the final sample, but I think I'll just upload a picture when its finished (hopefully by the end of the week).

I've been thinking about putting up the soffits next. My plan is to pick up a bunch of 4' Floating Shelving-type kits and use those. That way I can remove them when necessary to get at wiring, etc. Most shelving kits are 2" thick but I aim to have the soffits only around 2.5" thick so this doesn't leave much room for wiring. Hoping to find some 1" or 1.5" thick kits.
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post #120 of 176 Old 12-19-2011, 06:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally - a design element done!



I'm quite happy with the way it came out. The high contrast with the dark trim gives me some of that look I was originally going for. I also realized that a little wood goes a long way. To that end I think I've decided to do the sidewalls of the pit and the short paneling on the walls in black, perhaps with a small inlay of zebrawood only.
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