Well, big difference since my last update - walls are done and painted, and I took the opportunity to move in
Still lots to do in terms of stage/false wall construction, soffit construction, dark walnut wood paneling, acoustic treatments and fabric walls, as well as a mini bar in the back of the room, but nothing that cant be done without the room being functional at the same time. Here's a pic of what it looks like today:
You can see the layout of the room - the projector will at some point get moved to the ceiling and another chair be put in place in that row. I also have two more seats at the back of the room as a third row of floater seats. All this furniture I already owned - at some point I would like to reupholster (or possibly replace) to get it all to match, but for now it works fine.
Here you can see more clearly the wall color - I tried the best I could to match GOM FR701 Cobalt fabric color since this is what will be covering the walls eventually. Its not a 100% match but its close enough for the ceiling to look matched to the fabric walls once the dark walnut wood soffits are in place. Its unbelievable how much light this wall color sucks up - I have 5 100W lights in the room and it barely looks lit when they are on! Good thing I am planning 12-15 LED puck lights in the soffits.
You can also see the gap I left in my window framing in order to decouple the room framing from the window framing - I will eventually cover this gap with either caulk or a weatherstripping seal. I will be adding flip-down wood window coverings made of two layers of ply with green glue in between so that the windows are soundproofed when they are up.
My next step is to install one (or both) of the communicating doors/seal kits to the room so I can get a good idea of the soundproofing performance. I gave it some thought yesterday and realized I screwed up my door framing
My intention was to have the inner door be able to open 180 degrees into the room (ie. flat against the wall), but as you can see from this picture with the 2 layers of drywall (plus moulding eventually) a standard projection hinge will not likely work. Worse, since the finished wall will be 2" deeper for the acoustic treatments, I'm way off the mark. The correct fix would be to remove this 2x4 jack stud and replace it with a ripped down 2x8. The easier fix would be to laminate another 2.5" of wood to the stud face with lots of screws and PL-premium
I havent decided which way I'm going to go yet...