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post #31 of 176 Old 03-04-2012, 06:54 AM
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I don't know anything about the fire codes for doors into a storage room, but if that's the only place you have to put an access, you're kinda stuck with it. I just skimmed over your thread (looking at the pictures), not sure how I've missed it up to now. I didnt see the stairs on your drawings, but I think understand where that door is.

Here's an idea, though. If you are concerned about the doors interfering with each other, could you do a pocket door there? It would depend a lot on the framing there at your stairs, but I'm guessing you could open the wall up in the storage room. I don't know if the lowered door height might be an issue with standard doors or not.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #32 of 176 Old 03-15-2012, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are my initial plans for the wiring

 


Do i need to add/remove anything?


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post #33 of 176 Old 03-16-2012, 06:27 AM
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I'd be tempted to double up the hdmi cable, unless you are planning on conduit between the pj and rack. (And pretest the hdmi cables.)
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post #34 of 176 Old 03-16-2012, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Ya 2" conduit to rack from pj is on the plan.

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post #35 of 176 Old 03-23-2012, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is my wiring plan for lighting and grafik eye.

wiringplans2.jpg

Anything to critique?

Zone 1: Behind Screen Lights
Zone 2: Screen Wash
Zone 3: Sides
Zone 4: Rear
Zone 5: Riser step lights
Zone 6: Rope lights


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post #36 of 176 Old 03-24-2012, 05:00 AM
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Looking at your equipment list, I'd run a second 20A circuit to the rack location.
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post #37 of 176 Old 03-24-2012, 05:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SerenaFate View Post

Looking at your equipment list, I'd run a second 20A circuit to the rack location.

Ya i had thought about that. Updated. Plus made all circuits 20amp and 12/2 wire. Added A GFCI for unfinished storage room.

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post #38 of 176 Old 03-25-2012, 11:00 AM
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Nice work Chase!

Your room looks very well laid out, the level of attention here is quite good. You will be happy with these results.

What type of input has your wife been on ideas or concepts for the room? Have you finalized on a type of seat, or material?

I look forward to watching a movie in your room one day when you host! Welcome to the owners thread!
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post #39 of 176 Old 03-25-2012, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuluwalker View Post

Nice work Chase!

Your room looks very well laid out, the level of attention here is quite good. You will be happy with these results.

What type of input has your wife been on ideas or concepts for the room? Have you finalized on a type of seat, or material?

I look forward to watching a movie in your room one day when you host! Welcome to the owners thread!

Hi Zulu! thanks!

She's open to anything, pretty easy going. Seating is still up in the air as far as config, style and material. Thinking 2 rows of three and leather, leather for the ease of keeping clean after the wee ones.

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post #40 of 176 Old 03-25-2012, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

Hi Zulu! thanks!

She's open to anything, pretty easy going. Seating is still up in the air as far as config, style and material. Thinking 2 rows of three and leather, leather for the ease of keeping clean after the wee ones.

Sounds fantastic! I went with a three by two row lay out in the beginning as well. Now i have changed it to four and two seats per row. I really wish i had done this to begin with and bought one more chair for three in the front row instead of the now two. Oh well.

I look forward to hearing more at the next Meet you can attend.
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post #41 of 176 Old 04-02-2012, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Both knee walls are out, flooring moved and re-used in storage and laundry rooms.

Pallet from Soundproofingcompany should be here this week.

Construction of new walls happening this week.

Hat channel and drywall paid and waiting for delivery.

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post #42 of 176 Old 04-13-2012, 11:28 AM
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Chase - looks very well thought out. My only suggestions would be to be sure that you have two quad 20 amp outlets in your equipment location and to stick an HDMI connection in the face of the riser. (Maybe you're already planning on this with those Cat5e cables...I'm showing my ignorance because I don't know how that works.) You never know when you may wish to plug in a game system or some future doohickey etc.

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #43 of 176 Old 04-13-2012, 11:53 AM
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Looks great, curious to see what you'll do for sound treatment, I'm doing some research on it myself.

My room is kind of empty like yours, but I have carpet and also HVAC going across my ceiling, nightmare for reflections
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post #44 of 176 Old 04-13-2012, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Chase - looks very well thought out. My only suggestions would be to be sure that you have two quad 20 amp outlets in your equipment location and to stick an HDMI connection in the face of the riser. (Maybe you're already planning on this with those Cat5e cables...I'm showing my ignorance because I don't know how that works.) You never know when you may wish to plug in a game system or some future doohickey etc.

I was thinking i may run 3 20 amp outlets to my storage room. 2 for my amps and 1 for my APC H15 that will have the rest of my equipment plugged into. I plan to run powerbridge for the 2 subs up front and the projector to the storage room. Should i plug the subs, projector and the rest of my av gear all into the H15? Or should i get maybe a S15 that has battery backup for say the projector, htpc and server?

Reason i didnt have hdmi going to riser and use cat6 instead is beacuse my racks are in storage room behind screen wall and the time i route everything down to riser, ill be close to 50 feet and figured hmdi over cat6 would be better option.

I will be running 2 hdmi to projector, they will be 40foot cables, wonder if I am stretching it abit with length on these?

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post #45 of 176 Old 04-13-2012, 03:20 PM
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I used a '35 cable and bought a '40 one just incase the '35 wouldn't reach.

The '35 one is rated to be installed in-wall and broadcast up to 1440p, so I went with it and it works great. I have 22awg wire all around running to my AVR for good measure and this '35 High-Speed 26awg? one goes straight to projector out of the Denon AVR-590, haven't had an issue with it yet, and the picture is flawless.

Hope that helps.
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post #46 of 176 Old 04-16-2012, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

I was thinking i may run 3 20 amp outlets to my storage room. 2 for my amps and 1 for my APC H15 that will have the rest of my equipment plugged into. I plan to run powerbridge for the 2 subs up front and the projector to the storage room. Should i plug the subs, projector and the rest of my av gear all into the H15? Or should i get maybe a S15 that has battery backup for say the projector, htpc and server?

Reason i didnt have hdmi going to riser and use cat6 instead is beacuse my racks are in storage room behind screen wall and the time i route everything down to riser, ill be close to 50 feet and figured hmdi over cat6 would be better option.

I will be running 2 hdmi to projector, they will be 40foot cables, wonder if I am stretching it abit with length on these?

Chase - I think it would be a good idea to add an additional circuit in your equip/storage room. It doesn't cost much now and isn't easy to add in the future if you decide you want it. I have 4 in my room...3 separate 20 amp outlets for source and power equipment and then a 15 amp (not sure - maybe this is a 20 amp) outlet for the projector/power bridge.

I don't know too much about what should be plugged into a power conditioner and what shouldn't. I personally have my sub amp and power amps plugged directly into the wall. My main speaker power amps are Emotiva and I read on their website that they recommend no power conditioner etc. I would check to see if there is any guidance from the amp/sub manufacturer. This is just my novice (aka uneducated) opinion but it seems like the amps can have a significant power draw at times so you may want them on a circuit other than the one your source components occupy.

I think you definitely want some sort of battery backup for the projector. Power interruptions can cut the cool-down process for your bulb short and damage/shorten the life of the bulb. Considering the cost of a bulb, if a battery backup saves one bulb during the life of your projector, it has paid for itself and then some. Keep an eye out on Vanns as they seem to have APC units at blowout prices once in a while. I paid something like $130 for a unit that's normally $450 from them.

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #47 of 176 Old 04-16-2012, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the insight Benji, now some more boring de-construction pics.











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post #48 of 176 Old 06-16-2012, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
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My existing wall is flush with the header, if I add furring strips to make the walls staggered, what do I do to the header so that when I add clips and channel that it will all line up? Perhaps blocks attached to header to then attach clips too to make it flush with rest of new staggered wall?

400

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post #49 of 176 Old 06-17-2012, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

My existing wall is flush with the header, if I add furring strips to make the walls staggered, what do I do to the header so that when I add clips and channel that it will all line up? Perhaps blocks attached to header to then attach clips too to make it flush with rest of new staggered wall?
400

I am not sure what you mean by adding furring to turn it into a staggered wall, or are you inserting new studs that are staggered? I think I would just put up whisper clips and channel on the existing studs and header and call it a day. If you adding new staggered studs than about all you can do at the header is to add blocking for the clips to bring them out even with the ones below.
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post #50 of 176 Old 06-17-2012, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Yah I was gonna add studs and furring to make the wall staggered but may just go with clips and channel. Wish I could decouple it somehow without having to tear down wall. Other 3 walls will be decoupled, better than nothing I guess.

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post #51 of 176 Old 07-09-2012, 08:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Well time has come to get at this theater again, next job is sorting out the hvac. Here is my initial plans, comments?

hvac-1.jpg

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post #52 of 176 Old 07-12-2012, 10:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone wanna critique?

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post #53 of 176 Old 07-19-2012, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

Well time has come to get at this theater again, next job is sorting out the hvac. Here is my initial plans, comments?

HVAC looks good to me. I'm no expert. I read somewhere that supplies up top in the front and returns up top in the back are a good way to go. I don't know why that's true, but I read it... Are those blowing down or sideways out of the soffit?

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post #54 of 176 Old 07-19-2012, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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They would be blowing down, i plan to use nailor diffusers.

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post #55 of 176 Old 07-19-2012, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I plan to use 6" insulated flex duct for the supplies and returns unless I hear otherwise.

Will be setup similar to the Bethesda build that BIG worked on. My room is quite similar in construction and will be a good reference.

Right from plugging off the disappearing joist cavities with insulation(unless a better method has been recommended)

Still deciding if I want to put up layers of drywall under the joists or not. Seems very time consuming and dunno if the reward is worth it.

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post #56 of 176 Old 07-20-2012, 04:01 AM
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I would have the diffusers in front directing air towards the center of the space.

If the diffusers are pointed down, you may create a short-circuit situation wherein the cold air travels down the sides of the room to the returns rather than dispersing throughout.

It will work either way, but it will likely get cold faster and more efficiently if the diffusers aren't pointed straight down.

edit: maybe a single return in the center of the room would work better, if you can accommodate the larger duct size.

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post #57 of 176 Old 07-20-2012, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would have the diffusers in front directing air towards the center of the space.
If the diffusers are pointed down, you may create a short-circuit situation wherein the cold air travels down the sides of the room to the returns rather than dispersing throughout.
It will work either way, but it will likely get cold faster and more efficiently if the diffusers aren't pointed straight down.
edit: maybe a single return in the center of the room would work better, if you can accommodate the larger duct size.
Tim

Like centered in the back soffit behind the projector? How big of a duct, 8"?

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post #58 of 176 Old 07-21-2012, 04:33 AM
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Yes, centered in the rear soffit.

Size of duct would depend on how many CFM you are pushing. If you have 2-6" supplies at 50CFM each, then a single 8" return should work nicely.

If you're pushing 100CFM out of each 6", you may want to consider a 9" return.

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post #59 of 176 Old 07-21-2012, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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This all would be coming off main trunks that go to rest of house. No A/C. Wondering if i need to add a 2nd Zone for the theater room or not. We get cold winters being in Northern Alberta, down as low as -40 and also get dry hot summers, besides this week, our temps where in the high 80's, thats warm for us.

I have no returns in the basement as of right now, so i think once i add one in the theater, it might help with any warmer temps down there. Dont think ill need a/c. As long as I keep the fan on , on the furnace during summer months, should keep it cool enough.

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post #60 of 176 Old 07-21-2012, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I took my Kestrel 2500, it's a wind meter i use for work, and at most of my supply lines they run at an average of 3.8mph, this converts to 66 cfm.

HVACCFM-1.jpg

So with this much air flow, should i use 6" supplies and maybe 8" return? I don't quite know how this works.

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