The Esquire Theater!! Construction Begins... - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 1772 Old 12-20-2010, 11:06 AM
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Tin Snips.

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post #272 of 1772 Old 12-20-2010, 11:15 AM
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...and then some pliers to get it roughly back into shape.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
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post #273 of 1772 Old 12-20-2010, 11:17 AM
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Gloves are handy also...

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post #274 of 1772 Old 12-20-2010, 11:19 AM
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Also a bottle opener for the beer if you value your teeth.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #275 of 1772 Old 12-20-2010, 12:11 PM
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If you were going to do a lot of it they have special machines that do a great job of cutting hat or steel stud. But the machines are one trick ponies so it's hard to justify the purchase. You can also use a mitre saw or a table saw with the right blade. That's loud and not all that fast but it has the upside of making quite the show - sparks everywhere!
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post #276 of 1772 Old 12-20-2010, 03:06 PM
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I used this $3.50 snip to cut the hat channel, easy, or this $8 right cut snip can do even better job. No need to spend more money. Post some pictures of your progress.
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post #277 of 1772 Old 12-21-2010, 07:30 AM
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I also agree with the above statement. It doesn't require *that* much precision. If I were doing it as a business I might get a fancy machine because time is money. But for one job? Not this guy.
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post #278 of 1772 Old 12-21-2010, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok thanks guys - picked up some snips yesterday. I have made some decent progress in the basement, but everything takes longer than you think it will. Ten days for framing would have been possible if the ten days weren't during the holidays.

Here's my progress! I taped a WhisperClip to the beam!


Seriously though, I took some pics last night and they are on my computer...at home. Grrrr...I know I promised more pics in this thread, but I forgot to upload them, so it's gonna have to wait until tonight. I'd say I'm about 1/3 done at this point. I'm going to try to make progress this week, but I've been a little delinquent with my holiday shopping duties, so we'll see...

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #279 of 1772 Old 12-21-2010, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

I'm going to try to make progress this week, but I've been a little delinquent with my holiday shopping duties, so we'll see...

Thats why I shop online in november. everything gets here just in time for xmas and i then buy a bunch of those gift bags and tissue paper and just stuff presents in bags with tissue, i can wrap 30 gifts in like 20 mins.

never have to leave the house to shop no lines no crazy pushy people no horrible full parking lots just sit in the basement listen to some rachmoninov and enjoy a couple granville island winter ales (best beer eveeerrr!!!) and bam pressure free xmas shopping.

I am still trying to get my parents to do this, been bugging them for like 6 years or so to do it and they still go to crowded malls (which they both loath)... I dunno maybe they are just gluttons for punishment....


Matt

"The main reason Santa is so jolly is because he knows where all the bad girls live." - George Carlin
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post #280 of 1772 Old 12-21-2010, 08:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pics (finally)!! All of these are facing the back of the theater. I haven't made quite as much headway as hoped, but I'm moving along steadily!

This one shows the right side wall if you were facing the front of the theater. The blue tape shows where the riser will be located


Here is the back of the theater. It again shows the riser location and the back blue line you can (sort of) see shows where the equipment room and projector will be located.


Here is the wall on the other side. This wall borders on the already-finished part of the basement and is a double stud wall. There are also WhisperClips and channel on the structural beam for the last connection point with the drywall.


Here you can see how I attached the wall to the structural beam. There is only about 1/8 - 1/4" clearance between the top of the wall and the bottom of the beam, but I wanted to be sure I was able to get a good connection between the DC-04 and top plate. In hindsight, I now realize I could've just bent the metal part of the DC-04 up a little bit and didn't have to cut it so close between the wall and beam.


And another:


And here's a final one showing the double stud wall and the clips and channel:

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #281 of 1772 Old 12-21-2010, 09:48 PM
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Looking good, you are moving along pretty fast, the job site is pretty clean too, keep up the good work.
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post #282 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 01:32 AM
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I thought you were suppose to leave at least a 1" gap when using the DC-04?

I like your use of the clips and channel on the beam, that's a good idea.
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post #283 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 03:22 AM
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Looking good! You're moving right along.
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post #284 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 05:37 AM
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I'm pretty sure the 1" gap is so that you can still attach the wall drywall to the header after the ceiling clips and one layer of drywall are up.

Great work Ben! It looks damn good for someone who supposedly doesn't know what they are doing. I think you were lying to us so that we would be impressed. Framing is fun, isn't it?

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #285 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I'm pretty sure the 1" gap is so that you can still attach the wall drywall to the header after the ceiling clips and one layer of drywall are up.

That and the 1" gap allows you to build the walls on the floor and then have clearance to stand them up.

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post #286 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the messages all! I was a little nervous that they were going to be more along the lines of "um, you're doing this all wrong. Please take everything down and start over." And AM - I can assure you I really don't know what I'm doing! I'm kinda winging a lot of it! But you're definitely right - I am having a lot of fun (I'm an only child so have always had to be able to entertain myself )and learning a lot through this process, which is really the whole goal of my project (besides gaining a sweet place to watch movies ).

Question:
Tonight I have more shopping to do, but then am planning to frame the next section of the double stud wall, which will include the door to the theater. I have never framed a door opening before, so that could be a little interesting. I'm going to have to read up a bit before starting because I don't know what size to make the rough opening. So maybe tonight will be research and tomorrow will be actual work...we'll see. It's going to be a 36" door, so do I add extra width for the trim and then a little extra for wiggle room?

So...does anyone have input on how to frame the rough opening? The advice on wall framing, stud crowning, etc. was extremely helpful! Thanks again!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #287 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 07:57 AM
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I'm currently putting up a 30 inch door, into an opening where a 30 inch door came out of a few years ago. The door is 30 x 80. The opening is 32 x 82. Although, 81 high seems would be high enough. I can always add a 1x4 if needed.
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post #288 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 08:06 AM
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For a 36"X80" door I would use a 38" x 82 3/4" rough opening. You want to make sure you have some extra height to accomodate the carpet/pad or whatever flooring you're using.
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post #289 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 08:07 AM
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It depends on what type of door you are putting in there, Ben. Maybe give Ted a call if you are using his seals. You could make the opening the same as the door and attach the hinges directly to the studs. The adjustable stops would be attached to the framing. I don't think that allows for any trim though. I'm interested in the answer too since I intentionally didn't frame my doorway yet!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #290 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 09:00 AM
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Just a tip that I learned from my mistake, when you frame door rough opening, don't cut bottom plate yet, you would like to frame it like the entire wall, after you put wall in place and attach joist and floor, then cut out the bottom plate at door opening section, this way, you will get straight and aligned opening, otherwise, the bottom left and bottom right might not be on the same line.
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post #291 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info all! I really appreciate it!

Walkinator - that sounds like an excuse to buy a sawsall...I like the way you think!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #292 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 10:15 AM
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Or leave the sole plate intact and use it to help seal the door...
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post #293 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

Just a tip that I learned from my mistake, when you frame door rough opening, don't cut bottom plate yet, you would like to frame it like the entire wall, after you put wall in place and attach joist and floor, then cut out the bottom plate at door opening section, this way, you will get straight and aligned opening, otherwise, the bottom left and bottom right might not be on the same line.

Great advice

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post #294 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 11:05 AM
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I just framed my first door opening last weekend. I let my kids cut out the sole plate section with a hand saw afterwards. Of course I started the cut on both sides to make sure it was nice and straight but they took it from there. I was confused by their fascination of a tool that wasn't powered by anything
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post #295 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I also think I'm going to pick up a router today for the lip on the stage and on the riser etc. and just for general purpose stuff - seems like a cool tool to have. This is the one I think I'm going to get - http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100035094. Does anyone have input on what features are/aren't important? Will this one do the trick? Thanks again - you all are a ton of help!!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #296 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 12:31 PM
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Here is the list of power tools that I consider must to have:
1. Drills (18v cordless and cord drill with hammer action, sometimes you need right angle drill too)
2. Table saw
3. Miter saw (better with the sliding one with laser guide)
4. Jigsaw
5. Reciprocal saw
6. Nailers (framing, finishing, brad, etc, or some is 3-in-1) and compressor
7. Oscillating tool like MultiMaster or the cheap version from HaborFreight.
8. Router (better to have various speed plunged one) and router table.
9. Circular saw
10. Wet tile saw

Anything else?
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post #297 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 12:43 PM
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It depends on what you are doing. I have quite a few more power tools than on your list, but don't have a oscillating tool and hardly ever use a router or a circular saw. A wet tile saw is not what I consider a must have....unless you are doing tile work, which is not a given.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #298 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 12:56 PM
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Speaking of wet tile saws, has anyone used the cheap ones you can get for around $70-90, and if so, was it good enough for the job?
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post #299 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatBrat View Post

Speaking of wet tile saws, has anyone used the cheap ones you can get for around $70-90, and if so, was it good enough for the job?

I used one for a tile backsplash in my kitchen and it was worth every penny. Worked great for that kind of tile but not sure how well it would do with larger/heaver tile.
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post #300 of 1772 Old 12-22-2010, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

Here is the list of power tools that I consider must to have:
1. Drills (18v cordless and cord drill with hammer action, sometimes you need right angle drill too)
2. Table saw
3. Miter saw (better with the sliding one with laser guide)
4. Jigsaw
5. Reciprocal saw
6. Nailers (framing, finishing, brad, etc, or some is 3-in-1) and compressor
7. Oscillating tool like MultiMaster or the cheap version from HaborFreight.
8. Router (better to have various speed plunged one) and router table.
9. Circular saw
10. Wet tile saw

Anything else?

If you work with screws a lot or bolts/lag screws I think an impact driver is a must have also.
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