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post #451 of 1772 Old 01-30-2011, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

So I'm running LV cables to the front wall today, and am wondering what you all think: should I use one double gang box for the L/C/R, or go with three separate single gang boxes for each speaker? I'm not sure it matters, but I guess the single double-gang box would be slightly less penetration through the drywall...

Anyone have thoughts on this?

Thanks!

either works. though a single box is probably going to be the easier route.

the cleaner looking one is the box/speaker but of course that does leave you with more work to do. but it also means that if you have to swap out a speaker or cable then everything is close by and thus much easier to do. my general rule of thumb for dealing with a network of cables is "the longer the run the more of a pain it is and the bigger the mess".

In this case I would go with a single box and thus a single penetration into the drywall (and thus a single backer box to make).


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post #452 of 1772 Old 01-31-2011, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Matt - thanks for the advice.

I ended up with a bit of a hybrid of the two options - I have one single gang box for L/C/R and one single gang box for the subs. The four surround speakers are on the agenda for tonight - I'll post some pics of the process tonight...

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post #453 of 1772 Old 01-31-2011, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Hey Matt - thanks for the advice.

I ended up with a bit of a hybrid of the two options - I have one single gang box for L/C/R and one single gang box for the subs. The four surround speakers are on the agenda for tonight - I'll post some pics of the process tonight...

No probs

Good compromise! I like.

And yes more pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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post #454 of 1772 Old 02-01-2011, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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So here's how I tackled the LV wiring runs...

I was going to use the Carlon LV boxes, but then I went to HD to pick them up and realized that they're not actually boxes - they're almost like placeholders in the wall with no back (aka not good for soundproofing)...so change of plans and I got the regular Carlon adjustable blue boxes and did this with them...

Step 1 - Attach box to stud (crazy idea, I know!)



Step 2 - Drill holes in box using 1.125" bit



Step 3 - Add Carlon orange thingies (connectors meant for connecting Carlon LV resi-guard raceway to LV box) and smurf tube. (I ran out of tube for the last run. (of course!))



Step 4 - Add putty pack (this pic is actually the other side which has 3 tubes for L/C/R)





And here's a pic of the final result (I need to get more smurf tube for the last sub run to the box on the right side. Left box is L/C/R and right box is Sub1 and Sub2. (I only have one sub now, but am fantasizing about another Danlely in the near future...I know that 2 doesn't necessarily mean double the output, but still...I can't imagine what having TWO of those things in the room would be like!! )


EDIT: oh, I know they're placed a bit high up on the wall...I just wanted to keep the LV cables away from any electrical power if possible, and it will be behind the screen and a bunch of Insul-Shield anyway...

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post #455 of 1772 Old 02-01-2011, 11:17 AM
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Very nice, I was thinking of doing something similar for the speaker wires, and I bought 500' of 3/4" blue coil conduit and boxes, but I aborted the plan and returned the materials, it was too difficult to run in my setup, instead, I run more speaker wires than I needed, 13 pairs of speaker wires, 4 subwoofer wires, so I just hope all my low voltage wires would be fine. I do run 2" gray rigid conduit for other low voltage wires like cat5e and cat6, HDMI, etc.


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post #456 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Well things are moving along slowly but steadily. I have appointments for the plumber and alarm system work next week. The plumber is just relocating the refrigerator ice-maker line and the shutoff valve for a utility sink in the basement so I can still access them after the ceiling is drywalled.

As for the alarm, I was nervous about not hearing it if the system went off while I was in the theater, so they are adding another keypad in the theater. I know it's pretty low-tech and I would have liked to add a more intelligent control system (i.e. via ipad or some other wireless feedback device), but I'm already a little over budget and I don't have many additional resources to contribute to the theater above my planned budget right now.

Speaking of budget...I know we have discussed this to death, but I am still waffling between the 4-zone and 6-zone GE. Lighting is one aspect that makes a huge difference in room presentation, so I'm willing to go a bit over budget here. I have 3 finalized zones and am still trying to decide if I want 1 or 2 more:
1 - Front 6 recessed cans
2 - Rear 2 recessed cans
3 - Step lights
Either or both of:
A - Crown molding rope lights
B - Screen wash lights

I'm pretty sure I want both of these, so I'm trying to convince myself to pull the trigger on the 6-zone. What's $100 in the grand scheme, right? Haha unfortunately, it seems like I have been justifying nearly every purchase with the "grand scheme" argument lately. So the "grand scheme" is becoming much more "grand".

Question: If I do crown molding, how would I attach it to this wall?
I bet most of you guys have seen this already, but my left side wall is framed under the structural beam, and so it will ride against clips/channel toward the top. Anyone have an option for how I could attach the crown to this side of the wall?


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post #457 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 10:49 AM
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For your crown, could you frame it similar to how Ted's picture illustrates framing for a soffit with clips and channel (by adding another row of clips and channel where you'd attach the crown)?



Does that make sense? Might be overkill for just crown, but it would still keep everything decoupled.

As far as the 6 zone GE...not to reinforce your own thinking, but yeah, what's another $100 for 2 additional zones? Especially when you think about how much it would cost to go from 4 zones to 6 zones with 'retail' pricing and not second hand...


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post #458 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 10:54 AM
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You can add a dmall nailer to the wall to attach the crown to

You can use an initial layer of ply on that soffit, giving a nail base.

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post #459 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 10:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks vids - That's kinda what I was thinking...maybe I could even just move that channel up until it's even with where the crown will be located...

But what does that do in terms of fasteners? I would have to screw the crown into the channel, right? I may be wrong, but I don't think you could use nails as you normally would for crown...maybe someone else can chime in on this?

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post #460 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Ted - Thanks, but I'm not sure I understand your comments...

Re your first comment, do you mean adding a nailer directly against the beam? Wouldn't that couple the wall to the beam?

Re the second comment...I'm not going to have a soffit in the room...maybe I could just use plywood in that area instead of the first layer of drywall?

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post #461 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 12:05 PM
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it really depends on the shape and depth of your crown.

But you could always glue it to the drywall using some PLpremium.

If it is quite large and heavy then for sure you would want to make sure there are some nails to hold it in place but regardless i would just use plenty of PL to make sure it wouldnt loosen it self off due to the shaking and vibration that the suspended drywall may have.


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I think this is what Ted may have been talking about with the ply/osb as support:



You could probably just rip it to width where you could get one wall done per sheet, or just use a whole sheet like you would the first layer of drywall if that's easier. Would probably cost you more that way though. Maybe it's just the pic but I was thinking that your hat channel on the beam could go up a bit further? Could be wrong.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post
..I'm not going to have a soffit in the room...maybe I could just use plywood in that area instead of the first layer of drywall?
Yes as fotto "photo-ed" ...The photo from fotto haha. Little things amuse me I guess

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post #464 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 12:45 PM
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Yes as fotto "photo-ed" ...The photo from fotto haha. Little things amuse me I guess
Now I'm laughing too. You're having way too much fun up there in MI Ted. Maybe your weather broke today like ours did, the sun is actually shining here OR you may be dipping into that stash of Johnnie Walker in your desk drawer.

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post #465 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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ok guys - great suggestions, and that's the way I'll plan on the first layer of drywall. 6-zone GE coming up...

And fotto - yeah, I have been thinking maybe I should move that channel up a touch...it could go up a little but not much once you account for the clips/channel on the ceiling...

The way my electrician ran the wires along the beam really scares me with regard to installing the crown...I would prefer not to put a nail through one of these wires...some reorganization may be required here


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Now I'm laughing too. You're having way too much fun up there in MI Ted. Maybe your weather broke today like ours did, the sun is actually shining here OR you may be dipping into that stash of Johnnie Walker in your desk drawer.

Or both

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Or both
That's the ticket! At least you don't have to worry about getting reported to HR

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I don't worry about HR. I worry alot about HER, however

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post #469 of 1772 Old 02-03-2011, 01:35 PM
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I don't worry about HR. I worry alot about HER, however
Don't we all

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post #470 of 1772 Old 02-04-2011, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post


The way my electrician ran the wires along the beam really scares me with regard to installing the crown...I would prefer not to put a nail through one of these wires...some reorganization may be required here


I wonder if your electrician would have ran it that way if you had not had the clips and channel on the beam? (I'm assuming you had it installed when he wired the room) It was probably easier for him to do it that way.


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post #471 of 1772 Old 02-04-2011, 08:12 AM
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The way my electrician ran the wires along the beam really scares me with regard to installing the crown...I would prefer not to put a nail through one of these wires...some reorganization may be required here

[/quote]


When I had my electrical inspected for my basement, I don't know that that would have gone over real well my inspector. He wanted everything tucked away or run through the joists. I had to redo several runs to get it passed.

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post #472 of 1772 Old 02-04-2011, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Jon and BllDo - I don't know the first thing about electrical, so I don't know what would be the 'standard' way of running the wires here, but I know I can't leave them like this. At the very least, I need to put in more of those U-shaped electrical staple thingies to tie everything in better. That stuff is flopping around right now and the last thing I want is buzzing and rattling in my walls. My plan right now is to really try to tidy up that mess while I'm at it.

Here are a few really elementary electrical questions...I looked at some of those staples holding the wires in and they're really in there pretty good. Is there some tool other than a claw hammer I should use to get them out (so I don't damage the wires)? And I'm assuming they'll have more staples at HD, right? Do I put them in with a regular hammer?


At this rate, I am definitely going to win the title for most questions asked in a single AVS thread!!

Thanks all!

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post #473 of 1772 Old 02-04-2011, 09:46 AM
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Yes, your electrical wires need to be supported so they are not hanging or dangling, and the wires going into the outlet box need to be stapled on studs within about 6", this is what I did with my wires:






And the inspector told me that I did a very good job and even better than some electricians jobs he has seen.


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I pulled a fair amount of staples out during the course of my build. I found the easiest way was to take a pair of tin snips and grab the staple on one side where it meets the wood, pry it out a bit, then do other side, then take one claw from your hammer underneath the staple top an pry it out the rest of the way. Don't pinch/pry on the romex cable during any of those maneuvers and tear the sheath.

Yes, HD or Lowes both carry staples.

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And the inspector told me that I did a very good job and even better than some electricians jobs he has seen.

That most certainly is better than some (most) electricians I've seen. In my experience there's code and then there's the way it should be done.

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In my experience there's code and then there's the way it should be done.

I concur!!

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Thanks for all the comments guys. Walkinator - I have looked through your thread before at those electrical pics - very well done...I'm impressed.

I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to do to fix the mess that's there now. If I ever get out of the office, it's probably going to be one of those nights where I stand in the theater mumbling to myself about what I could do, but not actually doing very much at all. Tomorrow I need to grab some more smurf tube and whatever I decide to use to organize those wires and then I'll get to work.

Walkinator - can you buy those red cable organizers you're using at HD?

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Quote:
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can you buy those red cable organizers you're using at HD?

Yes, I got mine from HD.


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post #479 of 1772 Old 02-08-2011, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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No pics until tonight () but I have been making some good progress (actually, contractors have been making some progress for me). Recent updates:

1 - Spent most of last weekend organizing all of those electrical wires. Things are looking much better now.

2 - Plumber was in yesterday and moved the refrigerator ice maker line and shut-off valve so I can access it after the ceiling is drywalled. He also replaced a short section of pipe because there was a soldering joint that looked a little ominous.

3 - Ordered a 6-zone GE. Better call the electrician back to run some more lights!

4 - The alarm system people are coming today to install a keypad in the theater. Unfortunately the keypad only comes in white and will be right next to my black GE. Time to work on my painting skills...

5 - I'm about to cry uncle on the HVAC install. I don't know what I'm doing and haven't had time to research it. I'm going to make a big effort to DIY it this weekend and if I can't get it done, I think I'm just gonna cough up the cash on this one.


My next project is to start researching projectors. I don't know anything about CIH. I'm not going to build the theater around a particular projector, but I think I may need to put the projector on the ceiling in the room rather than shooting through glass in the equipment room. My screen will be 9.5' wide 2.35:1, which means about a 98" diagonal 16:9 image. The throw distance from equipment room to screen will be long...about 22' and I don't know if I can project an image that small from that far away without a special lens.

Long story short: I think I need a projector outlet in the room, and I'm trying to plan that now...maybe at about 18' distance? I dunno...gotta start learning about anamorphic lenses and throw distance etc.

Right now, I have my eye on the JVC RS50, but I can't decide if I'm going to go 3D or not...if not, I may look at the Runco LS-5...and I guess SIM2 has something coming out soon for under $10K...I dunno. I probably don't want to spend that much money, but those options looked interesting.

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post #480 of 1772 Old 02-08-2011, 11:55 AM
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You should come over and see what 135" looks like before settling on 98". Seriously.

Oh, and sounds like you are making good progress!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT

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