MysticalJet Theater 2.0 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 152 Old 11-13-2010, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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***EDIT 1/4/2014

Some newer photos taken with Canon T3i.  Still learning the camera but these are better than the previous set.

 

Picture from doorway entering Theater.

 

Entering the Theater with lights on

 

 

Similar photo with less light

 

 

Similar photo a bit over exposed so you can see everything a bit clearer - but colors are off.

 

 

From just behind second row seating.

 

 

From directly in front of center of screen facing seats.  In the back right you can see the fabric door I built to conceal the A/V rack.

 

 

Angled shot from the front.

 

 

 

 

*** EDIT 8/2/2012

Some Finished Photos

Panorama2a.jpg

 

TheraterPanorama1.jpg

 

P1000105.jpg

 

P1000106.jpg

 

P1000112.jpg

 

***Edit 8/21/2012

 

Equipment List

AV Rack Equip:

Main Receiver - Pioneer VSX 1121

Secondary Receiver (used as amp) - HK AVR 120

Home built HTPC

Probox DAS - 8TB

PS3

XBOX 360

APC-UPS

 

Speakers:

LCR - Aperion 3 X 5T Intimus Towers

In wall side surrounds - 4X Home Theater Direct HDW65

Rear Surrounds - 2X Aperion Intimus 4BP Bipole

 

Projector:

Panasonic PT-AE8000U

 

*** EDIT 8/17/2011

Some dimension changes. Also changed design of acoustic panels.

*** EDIT 4/23/2011

Editing the first post to start thread with final design decision. Had gone through several designs and this my friends is the THIRD "Final" design . Once complete, I will use this first post to summarize the final product and of course final photos.

So Here it is the Third and "final" ...final design... subject to change without notice.







Electrical Layout:



Screen size: 120" wide 2.35:1 AT Screen
Sound: 7.2 surround
Equipment list: (Reserved as this may change)
Color scheme: Burgundy and Tan (subject to change)

Final Pictures: (Reserved)



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post #2 of 152 Old 11-22-2010, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Everyone,

Been a long while since I've been to the site and posted. Lots going on including a move to a new home in a new state for a new job.

Anyway, last theater was my first "movie theater" and you can see the pics in my signature.

I have a new house with no theater so an almost blank slate to work. The theater will be in the room above the garage. All walls are finished already. If possible, I would really like not to rip out the drywall.

I have attached a sketch of the room including dimensions. I have some ideas on what I will do, but I am also open for ideas and really would like your input! The two long walls have unfinished areas on the other side. Furthest wall is an exterior wall, and the entrance is on the left of the near wall.

Current thinking - although not set in stone yet:
1.78:1 screen - toying with AT
Stage in front
7.1 surround
2 rows seating (although not set in stone)
Color Scheme: TBD although I will be ripping out the current carpet and installing "real" theater carpet.

right now the room has exercise equipment and bunch of other things including all my electronics. Once I move all that out, I'll take some photos and post them.

I hope to use this thread for 2 reasons:

1) Photo/written journal of the progress
2) Info gathering/idea sharing with the great minds of the board

Here is the other side looking from the outside wall.

I will post some ideas but want some input. My only option (I think) is to have the false screen wall on the outside wall (where the window is). I'd like to have 2 rows seating, but if I orient the screen wall on the outside wall, I am not fond of the idea of entering in and then having to step up on a riser, then down again to the first row. Any suggestions? on how I can do this in an eloquent way?

-MJ
LL
LL


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post #3 of 152 Old 11-22-2010, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a couple sketch ideas for the room - don't mind color scheme it's just for idea purposes. I haven't picked color scheme yet and not sure what architecture to add. I may add a stage and recess the screen which will allow me to move the seats up a bit more in the room.
LL
LL


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post #4 of 152 Old 11-23-2010, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Added a stage, recessed the screen a little, and created two front columns in the design.
LL


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post #5 of 152 Old 11-23-2010, 11:58 AM
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With your room length, you can certainly get an AT screen and two rows of at least 3 seats/row in there. Something similar to your last drawing with riser (or similar) should work.

Which way does your door swing?

Have you thought about your screen width and where top corners would end up based on your sloped ceiling?

You have good room width but it appears your max screen width will be limited by the sloped ceiling, which will also affect your screen height, and then also impact your riser height.

Knowing the angle of the sloped sides (or just measure the distance on the ceiling between where the two sloped walls meet ceiling) would help with suggesting screen size and subsequent seating/riser suggestions.

Floyd

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post #6 of 152 Old 11-23-2010, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply and the great questions. the model/sketch is pretty accurate in terms of measurements. The screen is 100" wide at 1.78 aspect ratio. Height from floor to bottom of screen is 36" and viewing distances would require the riser to be 12" high based on the riser calculator. I would then need one step as shown in the last drawing. Tried to answer your questions below.

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Originally Posted by fotto View Post

With your room length, you can certainly get an AT screen and two rows of at least 3 seats/row in there. Something similar to your last drawing with riser (or similar) should work.

Which way does your door swing? Swings out to the hallway so not an issue with clearance.

Have you thought about your screen width and where top corners would end up based on your sloped ceiling? I have played around with different widths and 100" would allow for a reasonable riser height for a screen this big - you are correct in that the slope impedes going higher on the wall. I thought about a 2.35 ratio screen but I'm not sold on that aspect size.

You have good room width but it appears your max screen width will be limited by the sloped ceiling, which will also affect your screen height, and then also impact your riser height. Very true; however, I think I'll be OK if I limit the width of the seating (thus width of riser).

Knowing the angle of the sloped sides (or just measure the distance on the ceiling between where the two sloped walls meet ceiling) would help with suggesting screen size and subsequent seating/riser suggestions. Don't know the angle, but the wall is 5' and goes up to 8' (see attached sketch). the ceiling would be 7.2' from top of riser step, and 7' from top of riser.


LL


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post #7 of 152 Old 11-23-2010, 02:03 PM
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Do a search for the build thread by "Sands_at_Pier147". His room is very similar to yours. There is another thread I'm trying to find that might give you some ideas too.

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post #8 of 152 Old 11-23-2010, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticalJet View Post

HI am not fond of the idea of entering in and then having to step up on a riser, then down again to the first row. Any suggestions? on how I can do this in an eloquent way?

Not sure about eloquent - but maybe elegant.

I'm doing something like that, and I like the way it looks / works - but its a detached structure, not sure if I'd like it that way inside the house:





(an older picture, but you get the idea)


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post #9 of 152 Old 11-23-2010, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post
Do a search for the build thread by "Sands_at_Pier147". His room is very similar to yours. There is another thread I'm trying to find that might give you some ideas too.
Great will do. I tried searching for something similar, but with so many threads - hard to find.

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Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post
Not sure about eloquent - but maybe elegant.
Yes Yes elegant. I wrote the wrong word


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post #10 of 152 Old 11-24-2010, 06:29 AM
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I was bored this morning and threw together a scope set-up based on your room dimensions:



That one's drawn with 120" wide screen. I'm thinking you could do anywhere from 110"-120" and it would work great, if that's an option for you. Unless you really want the side panels you drew for aesthetics, I'd be more inclined to just do a full AT false wall and maximize your screen size.

I saw that you calculated your screen bottom at 36" from the floor. That may be putting the screen pretty high based on general rule of thumb that you want your first row eyes at around 1/3 the height of the screen (as measured from the screen bottom). If you consider normal seated eye height is around 36-38", your right at the bottom.

Based on above pic with 12' front row and 17' back row, would yield a 12" riser.

Just some food for thought.

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post #11 of 152 Old 11-24-2010, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

I was bored this morning and threw together a scope set-up based on your room dimensions:

That one's drawn with 120" wide screen. I'm thinking you could do anywhere from 110"-120" and it would work great, if that's an option for you. Unless you really want the side panels you drew for aesthetics, I'd be more inclined to just do a full AT false wall and maximize your screen size.

I saw that you calculated your screen bottom at 36" from the floor. That may be putting the screen pretty high based on general rule of thumb that you want your first row eyes at around 1/3 the height of the screen (as measured from the screen bottom). If you consider normal seated eye height is around 36-38", your right at the bottom.

Based on above pic with 12' front row and 17' back row, would yield a 12" riser.

Just some food for thought.

Wow - thanks for the effort and input. I did monkey around with a larger width screen at 2.35 aspect ratio at first but I am not totally sold on that format (I could be convinced). I could do a AT screen as well - an idea to chew on. The previous design I posted with stage and side panels are basically for aesthetics - to add a little flair to the screen wall.

-MJ


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post #12 of 152 Old 11-28-2010, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is more renders. The first two are 1.78 screen ratio. Third is 2.35 AT screen ratio. Problem I'm having with the 2.35 design is space for the candy counter and popcorn machine due to the seating distances needed.
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post #13 of 152 Old 11-28-2010, 05:16 PM
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Ohhh, so NOW you want a popcorn machine AND a candy counter in there as well huh???

Just my opinion, but I'd try to keep those out of the room if possible and concentrate on getting the optimal screen and seating set-up.

Do you have room outside your rear wall to make an area for those?

Floyd

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post #14 of 152 Old 11-28-2010, 07:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Ohhh, so NOW you want a popcorn machine AND a candy counter in there as well huh???

Just my opinion, but I'd try to keep those out of the room if possible and concentrate on getting the optimal screen and seating set-up.

Do you have room outside your rear wall to make an area for those?

Well... the candy counter and popcorn machine already exist (Concession Stand) - see my sig. Brought them with me from my previous theater. No room outside but I'll think about an alternate. Probably will keep it in the room somewhere though ...


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post #15 of 152 Old 11-28-2010, 07:29 PM
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That's a very nice concession stand, great job on it! I was wondering what that rear bump out was in your last renderings but didn't make the connection.

Good luck with whatever plan you decide to forge ahead with!

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post #16 of 152 Old 02-04-2011, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I know how close one sits to the screen is a matter of personal preference (for the most part) but on a 120" 2.35 screen - how close is too close?


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post #17 of 152 Old 02-11-2011, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally emptied the room (for the most part) and here are some photos. These are the "Before" pics. I'm still working out the details for the plan at this point, but getting close.









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post #18 of 152 Old 02-25-2011, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some sketchup models I've been messing with. I have decided to go 2.35 with the aspect ratio. Weighing the options with an AT screen and also screen wall design. Below are 2 slightly different ideas.





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post #19 of 152 Old 03-06-2011, 07:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Well - I finished another project on the Honey-do list - building a window seat in our den. With that done, I have been able to focus a bit more on designing the MysticalJet 2.0 theater.

Here is the "final" design concept for the theater. Here is some of the basic info:
120" width 2.35:1 AT screen
2 rows seating with 18" bar on back of the 12" riser
7.2 surround - Plan is to have all speakers hidden
bass shakers (2 in each couch configuration)
In wall AV Rack
The entire build will be DIY except for some initial electrical work.

I will eventually get to listing all AV equipment - some I have, some I don't, and some I'm not sure yet.

Below is a look the final 3 dimensional design. Carpet color not at all accurate (not sure yet what I'll go with). The theater color will be a dark burgundy, tan, and black. This model is not accurate but will give an idea to design and color concept.



Here's a view from just behind the bar.


another one


There will be 3 circuits
2 X 15A
1 X 20A

1 X 15A will control the outlets and lights (already exists)
1 X 20A will control AV equipment and projector
1 X 15A for popcorn machine (not shown in below schematic)
Here is the electrical schematics

I will need to add the Can Lights. Currently there are 2 standard in the room, I am going with LED Can lights - less power consumption and "greener."


Here is a top view of of the plan with the layout of the AV wiring (speaker, HDMI).


Another top view with the measurements for the key elements.


Well - that's it for now. I will need to get an electrician in to add the 20A and additional 15A circuit. As I progress, I'll be keeping this thread updated.


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post #20 of 152 Old 03-07-2011, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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here's the side view with measurements.



-MJ


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post #21 of 152 Old 03-07-2011, 03:30 PM
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looking forward towards your final results....i have a finished room very simliar to yours and also an unfinished basement too....cannot decide on basement or FROG room.

Maybe your build can help determine mine....get a move on it!!!

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post #22 of 152 Old 03-27-2011, 05:50 AM - Thread Starter
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After going back and forth to determine whether to go 110" wide or 120" wide, I think I have finally decided to go bigger. This was my initial design idea; however, after testing the distances in real life (not the virtual world), I soon realized my seating distance for the first row was too close for me.

So how did I test this out you ask. Like many others, I set up a temporary screen and projector arraignment. I couldn't project on my wall because I have a double window in the way. I went out and bought 4 yards BO cloth from JoAnn's - cost ~20 bucks. I also had two 2X6 boards laying around. I measured out some distances on the wall and placed velcro where i wanted the boards. I then placed velcro on the edge of each board and stuck them against the wall. I hung the BO Cloth over the boards, stretched as best I could, then clamped on the top and bottom of each side. I placed two heavy buckets of paint on the bottom inside of the board to prevent them from caving. Not perfect, but good enough to test the projection distances in "real life." Here are some pics:


The temp projector setup:

Some images:



As you can see I did this during the day, but also did it in the evening to avoid the extra light through the window. It was immediately obvious that my original first row seating distance would be too close for 120" wide. I tested various sizes of the picture - ranging from 110" - 120". At the same seating position, 110" was fine.

Here was/is the dilemma. Shrink the screen size, keep the seating position and fit a bar OR keep 120" wide, move the seats back and lose the bar. Further to the decision was the resulting 16X9 image. At 110" 2.35 resulting image size ~83" wide for 1.78 and at 120" 2.35 resulting image size of ~91" wide - a big difference for me.

After consulting with the boss (wife), I am moving ahead with 120" wide 2.35:1 and moving the seats back. At a minimum 1 screen width back for the first raow ... may go 1.1 or 1.2.

BTW - Expendables is a great testosterone driven man's movie


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post #23 of 152 Old 03-27-2011, 05:56 AM
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Nothing like a "real life" set-up to dial in what your preference will be right?

I've seen that stepladder/projector arrangement more than once in threads. Makes me cringe to think how a minor nudge would absolutely ruin one's day (or week or month).

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post #24 of 152 Old 03-27-2011, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Nothing like a "real life" set-up to dial in what your preference will be right?

I've seen that stepladder/projector arrangement more than once in threads. Makes me cringe to think how a minor nudge would absolutely ruin one's day (or week or month).

Yeah - my first thought as well, but you be surprised at how sturdy it really is. Would't let dogs or kids run around it, but not as unstable as I thought it would be -- especially with the board on top. But you have to be careful - no doubt about it.


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post #25 of 152 Old 03-27-2011, 07:03 AM
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MJ,

I have a space similiar to yours and envy your 5 foot knee wall. Mine is only 4 foot and prevented me from implementing a projector/screen setup so I ended up with a plasma instead.

I believe you are making the right decision by going with a bigger scrren and moving the two rows back, this will give you a much better cinema experience. Bars tend to not give too much to the cinema experience
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post #26 of 152 Old 04-06-2011, 04:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Started getting the room together with some small demolition work. Keep in mind I will be doing this build without tearing down all the existing sheet rock.

First I have removed all the baseboard:


Next:
I have 2 HVAC vents and one large return in the ceiling of the room. One vent and the return are near the back of the room, and one vent is near the window - in the way of where the screen wall will be. So I needed to move that back a few feet out of the way. I cut a large area of sheet rock around the vent. The vents run parallel with the joists, so there are aluminum brackets that ran perpendicular to the joists and were secured to the joists. These brackets were ~ 3.5 ft in length so they spanned a few joists. The vents were then secured to these aluminum brackets. I wound up cutting the hole in the sheet rock large enough to remove the brackets so that I could reuse them when I moved the vent.


The second photo shows the entire cutout needed.

2 existing Can lights need to be removed:
These are new work cans that were installed when the room was framed, so again a large section cut out for each. Electrical was disconnected, and the cans removed. there are 2 more holes about this size in the ceiling:


Ceiling fan has got to go:
Fan was disassembled, a section of sheet rock removed (again the box was put in when room was framed) so a large enough section was cut out to remove the box. I'll spare you a picture of another hole.

So far, 4 large holes (really square sections) taken out of the ceiling to remove existing fixtures, electrical boxes, and move a vent.

I've also removed all the wiring from above - so fun to crawl up in that small spce. I'll post pictures on my next post - maybe tonight.


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post #27 of 152 Old 04-06-2011, 04:36 PM
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Looked back in your thread and saw the SketchUp - one thing that jumps out at me is surround speaker placement - you have side surrounds parallel to the front row and rear surrounds parallel to the rear row. May want to pull them both back a bit (if that will work based on where you want to place columns)?



Also, how much space will you have behind your false wall, can't tell from the model?

Edit: oh also, how does the sub on the right side work (shown outside the room) - is there a crawl space on the right side where it will hide?


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post #28 of 152 Old 04-06-2011, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Brad,

Thanks for the response.

Yeah, I will probably pull the speakers back a bit and move the columns. I may actually move the rears to the rear wall and pull the sides to the second set of columns. I've decided to pull the seating positions back so the rear wall speaker placement will work now.

The plan is to have 2 opposing subs from the sides. The two side walls have crawl spaces behind them (unfinished). I guess I didn't detail that on the right side.


Right now I have 1 foot behind the screen - although I may pull it out another foot. I'm looking to only get the center speaker behind the screen and the LR will be behind the screen wall on the left and right side which comes out 3 feet.


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post #29 of 152 Old 04-06-2011, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Besides making holes in my ceiling, I pulled out the electrical wiring for the pre-existing lights. The 15A 14-2 power comes up through the unfinished section to the left of the room (if facing the window), up over the knee wall, into the unfinished attic crawl space and down the back wall into a gang box that housed three light switches. From here, the power was branched to the outlets in the room and branched to each of the light switches. One switch controlled the can lights, one controlled the ceiling fan, and one for a light on the ceiling fan. The run to the fan was a 14-3 split for the fan power and the light.

In order to pull the wires out, I had to get up in the attic space above the room. Good thing I am not claustrophobic because it was tight and dark (even with a flashlight). I had to be careful because there is no plywood down so i had to balance on the joists with my hands and knees (so as not to pull a Chevy Chase and put my legs through the ceiling). The wiring was not through the joists, but on top of the insulation with a few staples holding down to the joists. Once the staples were removed, I needed to get to the wiring behind the wall, above the switches.

Cutting more sheet rock to gain access. A few more staples and I was able to pull the lines out. So now I have one line in from the power (15A) and one out to the outlets. I'll be wiring three zones from here to the new can lights to be installed.



I will also be running two more homerun circuits to the room. I'm thinking 2 X 20A.


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post #30 of 152 Old 04-10-2011, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Framed the rack area over the weekend, before I run electrical. The wall hole will be 19" wide by a little less than 5' tall. I will be framing and building a closet behind that is 29" wide by 27" deep (from edge of interior theater wall).

I marked the wall for the location and scored with a utility knife, followed by a keyhole saw.



A stud is in the way, so I needed to cut it out.

Love this tool.


Frame around hole.



Framing of closet area behind wall.



The back of the of the closet area will have a door for access to all the wiring. this faces an unfinished area on the second floor (that will eventually be finished).

Rough rack opening from in theater room.


That is it for now. I have an electrician coming in this week to assess placing a sub panel upstairs where I can pull from for my theater.


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