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post #181 of 300 Old 11-26-2011, 12:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADAIR View Post

WOW Digital_Chris, those econowaves and IB's are beautiful!!

As for the squeaking hat channel, is it that noticeable during a loud scene in a movie?

I'm not sure if I understand what is rattling in your lights. Could you post a close picture?

I was thinking that you can mount the projector to the floor joists for the room above and then looked back through the thread and remembered that you didn't put up separate joists for the ceiling for isolation. I don't know of any other ways to do it, but I'm sure you can find something on these forums.

Keep up the good work and happy late thanksgiving

Thanks ADAIR, happy t-day to you too

I haven't played any movies yet, well not to be noted anyway, just did at low volume to make sure all speakers worked. So, the rattling I noticed was during test tones, not a movie.

I'm not sure what you mean separate joists for the ceiling isolation, I did mount my setup to the current ceiling/upper floor joists. I think I'm going to buy a few more IB3 clips and isolate my PJ mount from the joists that way.

As far as my lights, at one tone, it was the bulb fixture, I'm going to do a few more in a few minutes to note exactly what tones do what.
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post #182 of 300 Old 02-08-2012, 10:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, this update is so overdue I'm almost embarrassed

I have done quite a bit since my last update so bear with me...

First came the 2nd layer of drywall, as you can see in the first few pics I didn't have studs behind a few pieces so I had to "clamp" the drywall together while the GG set up..











Here is a shot of the PJ wiring hanging like a champ...



And a shot of the metal box I installed, which turned out to be a nightmare so I replaced it with a plastic box (no picture, sorry)...



And then came the dreaded mudding and taping.. I was at first ready to hire out the work, but then my good buddy justin came along and assured me it wouldn't be that bad. Well, at least I saved some money, right? ...

What a TERRIBLE TERRIBLE idea, so much mudding and taping it was ridiculous. Either way, it's done now...







Then came the primer...





Followed by the paint (which came out terrible btw)...







Why terrible you ask? Well, I learned the hard way that I don't know how to paint properly... I let my arms do the work and not the paint, so, MAJOR roller marks were left behind, it looks absolutely disgusting. Disgusting to the point I want to buy another gallon of paint of each color and put on a proper final coat. I might not do the walls because they're not as bad as the ceiling and also because the fabric panels will cover most of the color but it still bugs me

Anyway, on the more positive stuff. I got a neat popcorn machine for Christmas!!!



I also figured out how to seal up and mount my LCR speakers to the front wall... To seal them, I made a lip around the cab that will sit nice and flat against the wall with some weather stripping behind for the seal.. To mount, I installed a 2x4 above the cabs in the back and mounted them to that with brackets from home depot... The end result I am pleased with

Here is what the speaker would look like originally (cab reversed just to show gap)





Here is the lip and how is sits against the wall...









At the bottom of the cabs, you will notice a lip that extends "outward". That is what the screen frame will sit against and therefor be properly spaced away from the speakers.

All speakers installed in the front wall...



Next came the assembly of the fabric panels.. Using a similar technique to GPowers, I used "cabinet grade" plywood from home depot, cut proper length strips that were 1 1/16" x 3/4", assembled them into frames with a few braces if I felt were needed and then added a beveled edge to the perimeter using the table saw. The frames are 1 1/16" deep to accommodate 1" rigid fiberglass behind certain panels. I don't want to give up to much real estate for thicker panels but I still might space them away from the wall a tad for the "free lunch" as LocalHost would say...









Who sets up their camera to take a picture of them self cutting the bevels on the panels? Thats right, this guy does!!





Here are a few shots of my new PJ mount. I decided to seal up the ceiling and make a "box" for my PJ, mounted it to the wall so it's more isolated/dampened than when it was attached right to the ceiling joists. The sides are all open for ventilation, but I will be covering the front and sides with fabric covered removable panels (similar to the wall panels)









And not much here but these are custom brackets I fabricated to hang my masking panels. The panels needed a bit of attention to detail for correct mounting but they turned out well

Now because I'm doing an AT screen, I can't just throw up fabric covered styrofoam like others could, so, I made an open frame the proper width and will cover with GOM. I kind of made these blind because I couldn't find much for making panels for an AT screen, don't know why (shrugs).









Here are my fabric and carpet choices...



Here is a shot of the carpet sample next to the seat cushion...



And finally a shot of the wall panels temporarily hung. I will be attaching them using grill guides from parts-express. They are tiny but they work well









Here is a RCA jack I installed which will be connected to my receiver for audio tests and setup...



And then finally, my seats, anxiously waiting to be installed in the room.. C'mon carpet!!!

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post #183 of 300 Old 02-08-2012, 10:44 PM
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Whoa! Nice update
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post #184 of 300 Old 02-08-2012, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post


First came the 2nd layer of drywall, as you can see in the first few pics I didn't have studs behind a few pieces so I had to "clamp" the drywall together while the GG set up..

Did you put any screws in those seams? Green Glue isn't really a glue in that it is not meant to be an adhesive. Screws should be employed just as if their was no Green Glue there in order to secure the drywall.

Great looking room by the way! I'm planning on going with a similar color scheme in mine. Keep up the good progress.

The Austin Home Theater:
A DIY high school project (now complete and being enjoyed everyday)

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post #185 of 300 Old 02-09-2012, 01:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miahallen View Post

Whoa! Nice update

Thanks Miahallen

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Did you put any screws in those seams? Green Glue isn't really a glue in that it is not meant to be an adhesive. Screws should be employed just as if their was no Green Glue there in order to secure the drywall.

Great looking room by the way! I'm planning on going with a similar color scheme in mine. Keep up the good progress.

Thanks for the kind words. And yes, I understand that green glue isn't a glue at all, but there are no studs behind those seems, I didn't plan that too well but I did put some screws in (unfortunately drywall to drywall only) and I guess that will have to do :-/
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post #186 of 300 Old 03-04-2012, 11:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Not much has been done since last update but carpet should arrive today or tomorrow! I will have to make a few calls and find an installer. I can't wait to get the carpet and seats in so I can start doing some real testing and calibration!

Just a note, I hope it's because of the empty theater room that cause my IB subs to lack any impressive noise coming out of them yet. I did a quick level match of all speakers (roughly 75db) and I can barely hear the subs when a movie is playing, I really can only hear them if I go stand in the rear of the room, even then it's pretty subtle.

I guess I was just expecting a very echoey but still very booming sub setup right after install but once I install the carpet and seats and then do some calibration, things will hopefully pick up quite a bit...

If anyone can chime in and tell me that what I'm experiencing is normal, I will be quite relieved
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post #187 of 300 Old 03-05-2012, 02:59 AM
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4 18s should get you more than my THT, so there has got to be something going on. Did you do Audyssey? I know it sets the LFE too low. I don't know how you have your system set up.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #188 of 300 Old 03-05-2012, 08:59 AM
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Do you have an updated pic from behind the front wall? Curious to know if you reinforced the lower portion of the wall to resist flex from the subs? I am doing a similar setup to yours (subs will be lined up vertically on the side vs. horizontally across the front) and worry that my wall is going to flex like crazy once they all get going full bore. Have you seen or heard any problems with your front wall?

Room is looking good. You've made a lot of progress in the last couple of weeks.
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post #189 of 300 Old 03-06-2012, 01:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

4 18s should get you more than my THT, so there has got to be something going on. Did you do Audyssey? I know it sets the LFE too low. I don't know how you have your system set up.

No, no audyssey yet, just a simple level matching with spl meter, behringer amp turned up about 1/3 of full volume and avr sub level at about neutral. All speakers and subs set to roughly 75db at main lp.

I'm sure it's just my room acoustics and probably more to do with the lack of ANY calibration yet but still expected more boom boom as is

EDIT: I went downstairs and made sure my wiring was correct and it is. Now, on the back of the amp, there are a number of small switches. They are there to let you control the low pass filters, clipping protection on/off, as well as Mono/Bridged mode or Stereo mode. My problem was that I had the amp switched to "Parallel" mode which would let me send the "sub out" signal from the AVR to one of the inputs on the AMP which will then send that one signal to both outputs, as well as turning the other "input" on the amp into an output so I could theoretically daisy chain multiple amps together. Well, instead, I added a Y-splitter to the "sub out" cable so I could input the signal into both channels but never set the switches to "stereo" mode.

Now that I made that small change, the output SPL isn't much louder than before but I can feel the low lows vibrate my clothes, not very strong, but it wasn't there before
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post #190 of 300 Old 03-06-2012, 01:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Do you have an updated pic from behind the front wall? Curious to know if you reinforced the lower portion of the wall to resist flex from the subs? I am doing a similar setup to yours (subs will be lined up vertically on the side vs. horizontally across the front) and worry that my wall is going to flex like crazy once they all get going full bore. Have you seen or heard any problems with your front wall?

Room is looking good. You've made a lot of progress in the last couple of weeks.

I can take a few pics of the rear and post them. I haven't done any extra bracing except for the 2x4 I mounted for the LCR cabs. I also haven't cranked the subs, at all, so I haven't noticed anything, yet :-/
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post #191 of 300 Old 03-06-2012, 10:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Carpet will be coming thursday and getting installed the 2nd following saturday!

Also, I just realized that when I installed the RCA jack in the wall for testing, I forgot to add in a 3.5mm jack as well for the Audyssey mic cable. As far as I have read, I can use a 3.5mm stereo cable for an extension and it will not hurt anything along with the total run length being roughly 10 ft longer, should be straight
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post #192 of 300 Old 03-07-2012, 02:02 PM
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Chris, you might want to look at this article on house curves: http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...ed-how-do.html

A truly flat (SPL level matched) system won't have much bass until you really crank it...and then the highs will be too loud. Audyssey will do some of that for you, but realize most people bump up the bass 10db after Audyssey. Also, you might want to turn your Behringer amp all the way up and lower sub levels on your AVR. That is if the subs will take the power. I'm sure they will, but above a certain freq, subs will be power limited and below a certain freq, subs will be excursion limited. That is where EQing comes in to play.

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #193 of 300 Old 03-08-2012, 10:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

A truly flat (SPL level matched) system won't have much bass until you really crank it...and then the highs will be too loud. Audyssey will do some of that for you, but realize most people bump up the bass 10db after Audyssey. Also, you might want to turn your Behringer amp all the way up and lower sub levels on your AVR.

This doesn't sound right.. Untill I let Audyssey do it's thang, my system will severly lack on the low end? What about the folks that don't use Audyssey or a similar auto EQ?

With my Table Tuba in my Larger living room, I don't run the LFE channel hot at all and the bass is very satisfactory.. Audyssey has done its thing so maybe that has more to do with it than I thought. Hmm..

Also, I know that the LFE channel is mixed about 10db hotter than the rest of the channels right off the bat, but having to crank it an additional 10db seems unrealistic, especially for having such huge drivers in a small room. Interesting...

Also, by turning down the AVR sub level and upping the amp gain, won't that reduce the signal sent to the amp, therefor making the amp work harder than it should have to?
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post #194 of 300 Old 03-09-2012, 08:19 AM
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Well, all I can say is that if your subs are "level matched" with your other speakers and your bass is unusually low....that your subs are NOT level matched. Ha ha. You might be level matched at one frequency. I have no idea. If you don't have enough bass for your liking, please TURN UP THE BASS! The house curve article goes through why most people want more bass than just flat.

As far as the amp gain -- my amp's clip lights do not come on until I'm at max volume even though the dial is cranked. You might want to do a search on it, but from what I've read that is the way to go.....and you will never get to max output with your amp's dial 1/3 the way. You might as well have just put in one sub!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #195 of 300 Old 03-10-2012, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I was always under the impression that if you want flat (same SPL from sub as the rest of the speakers) then you would turn your sub amp up/down just enough to get a 0db reading on your AVR sub trim. Maybe my thinking is coming from car audio where you would turn your sub output all the way up on your head unit to get full voltage to the amp and then adjust amp up or down from there.

Btw, I did the level matching with the AVR's factory white noise test tones.

Maybe today I''ll set aside an hour and really go through the house curve link you posted
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post #196 of 300 Old 03-21-2012, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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A Milestone has been achieved!!! Carpet and seats are in!! Check it!











And here is a shot of the back of the wall, to show the "bracing" for the LCR's and sub's...



Now, I'm sure I'm getting ahead of myself, but the bass is just plain non-existent at the seats right now

It's like, the front 3 ft and rear 3 ft of the room house all the bass and everywhere else (both rows of seats) have nothing... Hopefully the bass traps will help out with that, or that I'm NOT in a null and just the front/rear walls are getting huge peaks! Almost time to run some sweeps and see exactly what is happening!
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post #197 of 300 Old 03-22-2012, 05:12 AM
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Looking good! Carpet really gives you that 95% complete look. Oh, and chairs too. How do you like the chairs? Are they pretty comfy? I am still leaning towards using similar chairs for the back row in my room.

Keep up the great work.
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post #198 of 300 Old 03-23-2012, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! As for the chairs, they are the most comfortable theater chairs I have ever sat in! Are they more comfortable than your Berklines and what not? Probably not, no, absolutely not ( :-P ) but what they do is take up less space, and they add that genuine movie theater feel at home and that's what I was going for so I am very happy with them
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post #199 of 300 Old 03-23-2012, 04:08 PM
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Did you already say where you got the chairs from? I may have already asked too. Sorry if I'm repeating myself.
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post #200 of 300 Old 03-23-2012, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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No, I don't think I mentioned where I got them. I was originally going to snag them from "seatsandchairs.com" but found the same exact ones on ebay from seller "lhsinmn". I bought from him because his prices were close to the mentioned site but free shipping on top of that. Any issues can be resolved without problem
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post #201 of 300 Old 04-05-2012, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Not too big of an update yet but here are a few new toys that arrived yesterday



The remote is the URC R50, pretty cool remote so far and pretty easy to setup. Just having trouble finding the perfect codes for my Marantz SR5005 AVR, the SR5003 that I have upstairs works perfect so far but the code isn't the same for the 5005 Might have to custom program it for that one.

The ECM8000 is going to be used instead of the R-Shack meter I currently have for measurements, I was going to grab the Dayton mic but that's still on backorder. I'm also going to use the generic cal file for the 8000 for now and maybe get it calibrated by Cross-Spectrum, they are actually pretty local so it should be an easy thing if that's something I decide to do

Stay tuned for a few graphs, I might take some later tonight, I'll post them here and in the other thread I started. I'm also going to throw them up on the REW thread as well.

The downside to the update is that ALL of the panels I made are for 1" insulation, but of course, now that I'm asking around more, it looks like 2" would be MUCH better for reflection treatment and that's not going to be an easy task to modify my panels for thicker FG

SO upset I didn't make them deeper... we will have to see what my ears hear and how they like the sound I guess, and if so, I will find a way to change the panel dimensions..
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post #202 of 300 Old 04-05-2012, 05:32 PM
 
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Man. That front looks sick too bad the screen covers it. Great job on the room.
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post #203 of 300 Old 04-08-2012, 02:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot! The front does look nice, I agree
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post #204 of 300 Old 05-14-2012, 12:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I've been in a bit of a rut lately, I've watched a handful of movies but the sound is just not up to par yet

I know half of the reason is because I don't have any reflection panels hung yet, above comment will tell you why and two, I have bass issues to tame. A huge peak followed by a huge null at the rear row and just overall bad sounding bass, boomy and non-existent, at the same time.

Sigh...

I've been making post after post hoping for some help with the multiple issues I have and I feel that I'm either getting talked down on or just not getting my questions answered on topic... this is getting frustrating.

And to top it off, I'm not 100% happy with the picture on my AE4000. I feel that the picture is a bit washed out and lacks depth. Now don't get me wrong, I don't expect the picture of a top of the line LED TV, nor do I even want that, but it's definitely lacking in some areas. Do I get it professionally calibrated? Am I expecting too much? Should I be able to get optimal results with basic test pattern calibration? Sigh... again.

Also, I'm ready to order some OC703 for my acoustic panels and here's another dilema. I originally made my fabric panels to accept 1" fiberglass, after they're ALL built, I hear from multiple posters that 2" is MUCH better, geez! I feel like I can't win. Ok, so 2" it is, I'll try to work around that. Now, do I spend less money and order 2" panels as is or do I spend more and order twice as many 1" panels and make 2" panels out of them with a plastic sandwich in between? Will it be worth the extra money? Idk, like I said, ANOTHER issue that's holding me back

Let me just say, WTH?! I just want to cry becasue I spent so much time building this room and I feel like I'm never going to be happy and it's so hard to get the help I need.

Anyway, sorry for bringing the mood down, maybe some of you can help bring it back up for me
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post #205 of 300 Old 05-17-2012, 03:42 PM
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Hey Chris,

I meant to post a couple of days ago, but never got the chance.

First, we all get into ruts...I'm sure you have seen Logan's thread. He had two floods that wiped out all of his progress and required him to tear stuff out and clean up the mess! Most builds take a long time unless they pay someone to do all the work...or if they just put up a screen, a PJ and some speakers and call it good. It takes work to do a good job by yourself AND you have to do all the research yourself too.

So, taken all that into consideration, you are doing VERY well! You just have a bit more work to do and some fine tuning. That is OK.

I don't know what is going on with your bass. I would highly recommend getting a REW and microphone...or maybe you did that already? You mentioned a peak and a null. The IBs advantage are a lot of excursion for not much money. This helps with ULF more than the higher freqs in midbass since they usually have smaller motors than the big sealed drivers. The good news is that ULF is usually much harder to get high output in. The bad news is that you may be used to lots of midbass and no ULF. It may make it sound muddy to you. Your solution is REW and EQ...assuming your subs can produce more midbass, which they probably can. You could also check how many AC volts you are measuring at the speaker terminals when you play a sine wave. Watts=VxV/R

With low freqs, you'll be excursion limited, but with higher freqs you'll be power limited. Play the sine wave and see if you are close to your RMS watts. If not, you can push those freqs with EQ or overall gain.

I would personally go with 2" on the acoustic panels. Just bite the bullet and do it. You could paint some 1" thick molding and put it on the back, or add the 1" to the inside of your frame and then be able to backlight the frame in that new channel. If you make your 1" panels as is you will be kicking yourself down the road. I would just go 2" thick and not worry about the plastic sheet between two 1"ers.

If you are not happy with the AE4000, you can sell it and get something else! Changing the screen could help (don't know what you have). No PJ is perfect though!

Also, your car is pretty cool. You have a better car than I will likely ever own!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #206 of 300 Old 05-17-2012, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Hey Chris,

I meant to post a couple of days ago, but never got the chance.

First, we all get into ruts...I'm sure you have seen Logan's thread. He had two floods that wiped out all of his progress and required him to tear stuff out and clean up the mess! Most builds take a long time unless they pay someone to do all the work...or if they just put up a screen, a PJ and some speakers and call it good. It takes work to do a good job by yourself AND you have to do all the research yourself too.

So, taken all that into consideration, you are doing VERY well! You just have a bit more work to do and some fine tuning. That is OK.

I don't know what is going on with your bass. I would highly recommend getting a REW and microphone...or maybe you did that already? You mentioned a peak and a null. The IBs advantage are a lot of excursion for not much money. This helps with ULF more than the higher freqs in midbass since they usually have smaller motors than the big sealed drivers. The good news is that ULF is usually much harder to get high output in. The bad news is that you may be used to lots of midbass and no ULF. It may make it sound muddy to you. Your solution is REW and EQ...assuming your subs can produce more midbass, which they probably can. You could also check how many AC volts you are measuring at the speaker terminals when you play a sine wave. Watts=VxV/R

With low freqs, you'll be excursion limited, but with higher freqs you'll be power limited. Play the sine wave and see if you are close to your RMS watts. If not, you can push those freqs with EQ or overall gain.

I would personally go with 2" on the acoustic panels. Just bite the bullet and do it. You could paint some 1" thick molding and put it on the back, or add the 1" to the inside of your frame and then be able to backlight the frame in that new channel. If you make your 1" panels as is you will be kicking yourself down the road. I would just go 2" thick and not worry about the plastic sheet between two 1"ers.

If you are not happy with the AE4000, you can sell it and get something else! Changing the screen could help (don't know what you have). No PJ is perfect though!

Also, your car is pretty cool. You have a better car than I will likely ever own!

Haha, thanks for the comment on the car, she's a big PITA sometimes (including right now) but she's still a gem

I know builds take a while, longer than anticipated of course, but I just feel like everyone else gets theirs done fairly quickly and are incredibly happy with the results, but I don't feel that way. I feel like mine is taking longer than it reasonably should and on top of that, not happy with the results so far.

As far as tweaking the audio side of the build, I do have REW and a ECM8000 microphone and have taken many a measurements, just haven't posted them in here yet, too busy posting them in the REW forum and what not. My front row readings aren't that bad, just need to tame a few peaks. As far as the rear row goes, that's where I have a huge peak followed by en evenly huge dip, this will have to be corrected through bass trapping I assume, but what kind? My superchunks did squat to the rooms response so I'm not sure where to go from here. I don't have a lot of knowledge in this are so trial an error will be led blind.

Another thing I'm not used to yet with the IB build is how much ULF there is in movies, maybe when the system it finally tuned, it will be better but until then, almost every bass scene has bass that vibrates my clothes and gets quite obnoxious, sounds odd but true. Know what I mean?

As far as the wall panels go, I was lucky and found remnant pieces of 3" fiberglass at a shop in Worcester, most of the panels I grabbed were 3' x 4' in size and unfortunately a little damp in spots because the panels were all outside for a week or so, but the price was quite reasonable I must say, at $0.50 a piece

So, 3" panels on the walls and behind my screen it will be. Now I just need a new design for panels and their arrangement, goodbye to all my old panels that never got use, what a waste of time and money

Now for my PJ, I think I've come to terms with it and it's actually pretty good on the blacks after actually noticing what my Panasonic Plasma can do upstair, not much better I must say, worse if anything. I just need to get used to it downstairs now. But, the picture on the PJ could still use some tweaking, it still looks a bit washed out to me, which when fixed, I think it will make my blacks look better. I just need to find a certified calibrator now.

Thanks for the reply, let's keep this thread going!
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post #207 of 300 Old 05-18-2012, 05:26 PM
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Well, if it makes you feel any better, I don't think is easy (AT ALL) to get smooth FR at all seats. The back seats are seats you won't be sitting in so don't go too crazy. They will be happy to be sitting in your theater and leave it at that. Most people are not that discerning.

Oh crap, your IBs are vibrating your clothes during bass scenes??!?? You are definitely doing something wrong! Ha ha ha..... You can EQ that out, of course....but the best solution is to send 2 or 3 of them my way and I think you'll find that issue will be sorted quite nicely. I really enjoy having my system set up so that the dialog volume is at a moderate volume, but my bass is hot so I get some boom boom on bass scenes. It is all subjective. You probably have more bass than you need, so just tune it down to your liking!

Also, I don't know if you have looked at your waterfall plots. A good FR is a start, but if the bass continues much longer than the mids and highs it will sound muddy also. You can think of it as echo but for only the low freqs. The superchunks should have addressed at least some of that. You might want to start throwing some couch cushions in the corners to see if they help with the waterfalls and subjective listening. If they help a lot then you can reassess and see how you want to place them (made out of fiberglass).

I still think you could salvage your old panels by what I mentioned in my last post.

The Panny is not a bad PJ. It is not the best in IQ, but should be good enough to keep. If not, feel free to get a better PJ!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT
Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
Andreas' Slow Rotary Sub build
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post #208 of 300 Old 05-18-2012, 10:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Well, if it makes you feel any better, I don't think is easy (AT ALL) to get smooth FR at all seats. The back seats are seats you won't be sitting in so don't go too crazy. They will be happy to be sitting in your theater and leave it at that. Most people are not that discerning.

Completely understandable, it's just that the rear seats are bery boomy with that peak, if I can tame that peak down a bit (10db or so), I will be happy with that and then I can just work on the front row

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Oh crap, your IBs are vibrating your clothes during bass scenes??!?? You are definitely doing something wrong! Ha ha ha.....

Ha ha, it is an odd "problem", but seriously though, it's a bit annoying! Trust me, I like "feeling" the bass but I don't want to feel itchy during every bass scene I feel like something is amiss because I've never heard of anyone having a problem with it, maybe I'm just weeeeird

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Also, I don't know if you have looked at your waterfall plots. A good FR is a start, but if the bass continues much longer than the mids and highs it will sound muddy also. You can think of it as echo but for only the low freqs. The superchunks should have addressed at least some of that. You might want to start throwing some couch cushions in the corners to see if they help with the waterfalls and subjective listening. If they help a lot then you can reassess and see how you want to place them (made out of fiberglass).

I still think you could salvage your old panels by what I mentioned in my last post.

The Panny is not a bad PJ. It is not the best in IQ, but should be good enough to keep. If not, feel free to get a better PJ!

I had one guy tell me that the superchunks did help with the ringing but I need to take more plots, before and after and see how much they actually helped.

I will try to do somethign with the current panels, maybe I CAN salvage them, but to be honest, I'm not sure that I even loved the panel design anyway once it was all put into place so I don't know what I'm going to do :/

And like I said with the Panny, if a good calibration will help with the slightly washed out look, I think I'll be more than happy with it's picture
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post #209 of 300 Old 05-19-2012, 10:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Tonight I started trimming the 3" rigied fg panels I bought, into cleaner shapes. In case you didn't see my other post, I found some remnant rigid fiberglass panels at a fairly local company and picked through their piles for the best ones I could find. Some of them still had wet spots from sitting in the rain, but I got the driest ones I could find. So, now they need to be trimmed from the bad spots and uneven ends.

I have gone through half of them tonight and maybe I'll tackle the rest tomorrow or monday, and then start figuiring out how to incorporate them with my current wall panels, aye yi yi..

I posted this in it's own thread but hopefully this fiberglass isn't too dense.. I've never dealt with rigid fg before so I'm not good with guessing pcf numbers but this stuff has got to be at least 6pcf... if it's greater than 6pcf, am I in trouble or would that be ok?
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post #210 of 300 Old 05-20-2012, 05:48 AM
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Ensure you run Audessey on your whole system and most likely it will ask you to lower your sub level for matching. I find for my taste that it is way too low. I turn mine up quite a bit after the calibration. I didnt see what amp you have but I have a Behringer 4000. I also bought the feedback destroyer to help with certain frequencies. I'm sure you will want to do the same and the REW should be able to tell you how much and where. Once you are able to do that then you can increase the overall subs without it seeming like there is too much sub in any one area. Also be sure you have the switches setup properly on the back so it is not limiting your subs at all.

Running my subs at Audessey's recommended levels is in my opinion unsatisfying. I feel like I could have achieved that with my tower subs alone. After turning up the gain on the amp it is insane. I have never felt bass like it before and it feels like your entire body is moving with the subs speaker cones. It is absolutely amazing and far exceeds any commercial theater I have ever been too including IMAX. I used to think I wanted bass shakers but that is no longer an issue.

BTW, I think your room looks nice and here are a few comments for you. You may want to consult someone with how much of 3" panels you are using and where to place. I hired my consultation done and was told that anything over 2" on the sides would absorb to many frequencies. Now I'm sure making the panels smaller behind your frames would work too since you already have them. I would definitely recommend repainting your ceiling for when you have a movie going those lines are most likely to show up and bug you. However you can test it to see if that happens and if not leave well enough alone. When you get to the rear of the room you are going to want to face the treatment to reflect the highs and accentuate your surrounds. The rear wall you can go essentially as thick as you want but be sure to face it. Good luck

Adam

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