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post #61 of 95 Old 03-09-2012, 09:16 AM
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Beautiful wood, John. I hope the interior gets some of that, too.

Call me for drywall, I need practice.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #62 of 95 Old 03-09-2012, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Beautiful wood, John. I hope the interior gets some of that, too.

Call me for drywall, I need practice.

Thanks, man. I need the practice, too!
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post #63 of 95 Old 04-30-2012, 06:45 AM
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Noticed your comments about ditching the DBA. There is an alternative that I think can make it accessible for more people. Simply do a front wall array and replace the rear wall array with treatment. In particular aim for some tuned traps that focus on primary and secondary length modes. This means halving the amount of power and drivers whilst allowing seating up to the rear wall.
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post #64 of 95 Old 05-15-2012, 06:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulspencer View Post

Noticed your comments about ditching the DBA. There is an alternative that I think can make it accessible for more people. Simply do a front wall array and replace the rear wall array with treatment. In particular aim for some tuned traps that focus on primary and secondary length modes. This means halving the amount of power and drivers whilst allowing seating up to the rear wall.

Good timing with this post, Paul. I decided to go big or go home (see pic). Now, it's not even an SBA...more like a line array. I believe it was the Bland who said something to this effect: "for bass, shoot for way more than you think you need, then double it." Right now, I've got two QSC 3602 amps powering this array. After running some sweeps and testing the limits of the system (probably to the dismay of the integrity of my house), I think he's right. 30 min later, I actually still feel dizzy from the tests!

Yes, I will have tuned traps, broadband traps, possibly some VPR steel plate traps, etc... basically, the full monty. The rear speaker box which I had originally planned to use for the DBA will now be filled with fiberglass, tuned traps, or a combination of the two.

John
LL
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post #65 of 95 Old 08-13-2012, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Just checking in. I've been speaker building! L & R front bass horns complete, 1 mid/high unity horn complete. Need to build 2 more unity horns and design/build center channel bass box. Measurements are from front bass horns, close mic'd at side walls, ground plane. Driver: Kappa pro 15 LF-2 for each. Goal: 70-300hz... not too bad! Speakers will be finished later. Stay tuned...

John




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post #66 of 95 Old 08-13-2012, 09:34 PM
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I've been reading up on unity horns, they're intriguing. Have you done any listening with it yet (in mono)?

Those bass horns look cool too, curious how the folding looks, and how you settled on the shape?
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post #67 of 95 Old 08-14-2012, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Brad,

I have done some listening in mono to my unity horn and it sounds really good to me so far (see sig for details). As far as the bass horns go, there isn't any folding to speak of. They are conventional (not tapped) offset driver horns (see crappy pic below) end have angled reflectors which seem to work. I played around with Hornsrep, guestimated the effective horn length, and then built an OSB prototype (for $7 a sheet, it's a pretty cheap test).

MiniDSPs will control all crossover/EQ duties. Looking forward to getting another unity built so I can at least listen in stereo!

John

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post #68 of 95 Old 11-28-2012, 04:51 PM
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How on earth did I miss this build - very cool. Love the soffits!...and the subs...and the horns biggrin.gif

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post #69 of 95 Old 11-28-2012, 07:04 PM
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Wow, impressive work. Can't wait to see some of your ideas fully constructed and complete.
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post #70 of 95 Old 02-04-2013, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I really need to do a better job updating my progress. I've been chipping away at this- really, I have! It's just hard to find the time and to stay motivated... over 3 years now. Anyway...

I have more or less settled on a design plan. Like many of you, I find "upgrade fever" tough to shake, only my upgrades keep happening midstream... don't change horses, and all that frown.gif With that said, I have done quite a bit of research on sound and speaker design. I've decided to adopt the Earl Geddes multi sub approach, which you can read about here:

http://www.gedlee.com

This approach will hopefully solve may problems for me with one solution. Dr. Geddes watches his movies in a very well damped room- read posts #648 onward (page 65)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/134568-multiple-small-subs-geddes-approach-65.html

Building this type of wall will not only hopefully damp subwoofer frequencies, it will provide a large measure of sound proofing (my adjacent HVAC makes plenty of noise). Also, it will allow me to get the look I want- modern and smooth. Here's what I've done so far:


Used a handplane to shape the curves on the form.


Used 1/4" drywall. Unlike the relatively easy bending around the soffit formers, this was much tougher: I had to score the drywall multiple times and glue it onto the forms, held in place by lots of temporary drywall screws... I'll mud it later.




Fast forward several months later- RC-1 channel is up, gluing/screwing hardipanel. It's heavier and thinner than drywall. Oh yeah- I built a surround speaker into the wall smile.gif





I got this LED strip at http://1000bulbs.com/product/56846/SIV-IFL6012A.html

I built a GFCI outlet into the wall and tucked the cord into the leftover space. I'm going to hardwood the floor, and once that's done, I'll add a baseboard to cover up the fiberglass.

This is really haphazard, and I'm sorry! i need to take more pics and update more often. I'll try to do better, I promise!

John
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post #71 of 95 Old 02-05-2013, 03:49 AM
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Cool lighting concept!

I'll have to visit soon, and see where you put the GFCI outlet.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #72 of 95 Old 02-05-2013, 05:56 AM
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Very nice build so far!

MY THEATER......The Thompson Theater 11.9 channels

"Is not love not unlike the unlikely not it is unlikened to?"
- Leon Phelps
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post #73 of 95 Old 02-05-2013, 11:05 AM
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Do you mean the baseboard will directly cover the open wall cavity at the bottom (no drywall there)? If so, wouldn't that create a flanking path for sound leakage?
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post #74 of 95 Old 02-05-2013, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Do you mean the baseboard will directly cover the open wall cavity at the bottom (no drywall there)? If so, wouldn't that create a flanking path for sound leakage?

It won't be ideal, but I have, on the outside wall, in order: 1/2" drywall, 2 layers of 1/2" inch hardibacker, and 3" rock wool (I'll add rock wool to the remaining uncovered lower wall, best seen in the second to last pic above). Also, the portion of the wall that will be covered by the baseboard is further separated from the HVAC by the adjacent staircase. I don't think it will be an issue. If it is, I'll attack the furnace room with more drywall/greenglue as needed.

John
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post #75 of 95 Old 02-06-2013, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the glue up/screw up of the wall finished today...


Here's a pic of the liquid nails/green glue mix.


Just need to mud!

John
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post #76 of 95 Old 02-17-2013, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Started the far wall today...





The color differences are from color casts- the cool white light is what will ultimately be seen. Also, the shadows are boosted in this shot- the light level is actually much lower. The far lights aren't hardwired yet but are plugged in, just to get a feel for the lighting. Hardwiring next...

I'm actually starting to feel like I could watch a movie in here!

John
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post #77 of 95 Old 02-18-2013, 10:38 AM
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Looking good, John!

Any thoughts about eventual control? iPad, Android, RF to IR?

Do you need outlets in the room, for code or anything else? Those GFCIs look a little hard to get to.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #78 of 95 Old 02-18-2013, 12:44 PM
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Very interesting build. looks like this is not your first theater build! What are you going to do with the floor?
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post #79 of 95 Old 02-22-2013, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the kind words!

Neurorad- an ipad controller had crossed my mind. As far as the other outlets go, I forgot to show you guys these...



Here's the GFCI for the far wall that I just finished...



vikgrao- actually, it's my first build. I sure hope it looks as good done as it does in my head! The floors will be covered by medium dark hardwood with a low gloss finish, maybe with an oriental area rug.

Thanks,
John
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post #80 of 95 Old 02-23-2013, 03:26 AM
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Quote:
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Here's the GFCI for the far wall that I just finished...



 
Is that GFI plug going to be inside the wall?
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post #81 of 95 Old 02-23-2013, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes. It will be recessed (when viewed from the floor looking up) but accessible. See the seventh image down in post #70 to see how it looks in the opposite wall.
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post #82 of 95 Old 05-06-2013, 12:57 AM
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Any updates for us?

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post #83 of 95 Old 06-18-2013, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Ceiling goes up tomorrow! FInally! Double 5/8" drywall and green glue. I took all those boxes down from between the joists and decided to just do a regular ceiling. This should be a real motivator. I'm hiring this part out- too dangerous for me. I'm leaving wires in the ceiling for a potential Dolby "Atmos" home theater upgrade (if it ever happens).




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post #84 of 95 Old 06-19-2013, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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post #85 of 95 Old 06-20-2013, 02:55 AM
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Very cool! What else can you sub out, to get it done? wink.gif

Any interest in testing the ceiling-run cables, for continuity, now the ceiling drywall is up? Or, did you explain how the blue hat channel works, to the drywall guy? smile.gif

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #86 of 95 Old 06-20-2013, 03:00 AM
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I see a couple downlights were moved.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #87 of 95 Old 06-20-2013, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Any interest in testing the ceiling-run cables, for continuity, now the ceiling drywall is up? Or, did you explain how the blue hat channel works, to the drywall guy? smile.gif

I made sure that they put screws in ONLY the blue hat channel, thus guaranteeing both sonic superiority and structural stability. I wouldn't dare miss an opportunity to leave my guests in awe of near white-noise like crackling as the copper in the cables moves in and out of contact with said screws or the the chance to thrill them with "drywall dodge" as 4x8 panels randomly threaten craniocervical realignment.

John
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post #88 of 95 Old 07-06-2013, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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New hardwood! Needs to be sanded/stained, but I love it so far. Also had a brick wall built and tied into the existing chimney. I told my wife that the theater would be functional by Christmas- unfortunately, her and my idea of "functional" differ somewhat. We'll see if I make it smile.gif



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post #89 of 95 Old 07-07-2013, 12:10 AM
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Looking good!

I had dismissed hardwood floors until recently (for a theater, we have our whole house in it) - I'm now considering it, unless I am told strenuously otherwise (I figure I can treat the ceiling better than carpet on the floor)

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post #90 of 95 Old 07-07-2013, 06:22 AM
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Looks great, John. Is that real brick (full size) or a veneer? I've been shopping for veneers and haven't seen anything so nice.
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