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post #811 of 1236 Old 02-18-2013, 04:10 AM
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I think you made a great choice in speakers, Nick. The SEOS designs have gotten great reviews.

I find some comfort knowing I am not the only guy freezing his butt off trying to finish the millwork!

Tim

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post #812 of 1236 Old 02-18-2013, 07:24 AM
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I have been debating SEOS for at least my LCR - not sure if I can work with boxes that large for surrounds with no columns.

From all my reading - you made a great choice - should sound fantastic for a pretty decent price!

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post #813 of 1236 Old 02-18-2013, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Left/Center/Right: Fusion 12 Tempest

Surrounds (4): Fusion 8 Alchemy

Subs (2): 15" MK III Titanic

Wait - I thought you decided to go 11.x already rolleyes.gif
You've got (4) more Fusion 8 Alchemy's to make tongue.gif

Seriously, they look eager to have their drivers and cross overs in them, stuffed, and finished.
Since all behind cloth you will just prime and paint black?
Well, your subs will be in the open, at least one, how will you finish that?

I do look forward to listening to these in your room Nick.

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post #814 of 1236 Old 02-18-2013, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I think you made a great choice in speakers, Nick. The SEOS designs have gotten great reviews.

I find some comfort knowing I am not the only guy freezing his butt off trying to finish the millwork!

Tim

 

At first, my son was begging me to work on the columns on a warmer day.  I have to admit the same thought crossed my mind.  I knew that I needed to press on if I was going to make any progress this week.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjslegacy View Post

I have been debating SEOS for at least my LCR - not sure if I can work with boxes that large for surrounds with no columns.

From all my reading - you made a great choice - should sound fantastic for a pretty decent price!

 

jjslegacy, I had the same concerns with the surrounds.  I was worried that if I didn't use matching drivers, I wouldn't be happy with the sound.  In the end, my surrounds are 9.75" deep.  I figured I could make that work.

 

I exchanged a few notes with Erich and Jeff Bagby (who designed the speakers) and I am very confident that I will be happy with my speaker choice.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post


Wait - I thought you decided to go 11.x already rolleyes.gif
You've got (4) more Fusion 8 Alchemy's to make tongue.gif

Seriously, they look eager to have their drivers and cross overs in them, stuffed, and finished.
Since all behind cloth you will just prime and paint black?
Well, your subs will be in the open, at least one, how will you finish that?

I do look forward to listening to these in your room Nick.

 

Nice try Mike wink.gif.  9.2 certainly isn't out of the question.  I did some measuring to see if I could put the wides in my front columns.  I don't know that I would benefit much with the height speakers due to my low ceiling height.  I don't think there would be enough separation from the mains.

 

I am planning to paint everything black, but I may do one of the subs in an oak veneer to match the room.  We will have to wait to see how everything turns out.

 

I can't wait to have you out.  I know we have a HEMI meet coming up soon, but maybe I will be ready to have everyone out shortly after that.  Maybe late Spring early Summer.



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post #815 of 1236 Old 02-24-2013, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some work done on the theater in the last week.  I was able to get all of my columns glued up.  I made a base and top for 6 columns.  I have about have of them sanded.

 

 

 

They aren't real pretty, so they will likely need some lipstick smile.gif.  I played around with several decorative trim ideas, but didn't really like any of them.  There will also be a black speaker cloth area between the two halves.

 

I also covered the front wall with plastic to protect it from dust.  I then wired the lights that will be behind the screen.

 

 

 

I also decided to stop by a carpet store to look at samples.  I know it may take me a while to pick a pattern and then it may take a few weeks to order it if I pick something less common.  All I can say is - it was a bit overwhelming.  I saw a couple that I liked, but not really sure yet.  At least I am starting to think about it.

 

I seem to keep going back to this pattern.  It is Stanton Hickory.  I have seen a couple of theaters done in red.  I am leaning towards a black carpet.

 

 

This one is similar.  It is Kane Vantex.

 

 

 

One of my biggest issues is trying to vision the entire room in a pattern.  I can't really determine how much I really like it from such a small sample.

 

I need to get the last of my oak veneer ordered this week so I can finish up the front soffit and columns.  Also have plenty of sanding to keep me busy.



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post #816 of 1236 Old 02-24-2013, 06:33 PM
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I keep looking at similar as well, also good old stars. smile.gif I'm a ways off though. Check these:



Bud


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post #817 of 1236 Old 02-24-2013, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Bud.  I saw the stars pattern (or something similar), but I haven't seen the other two.  Do you know what brand they are?



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post #818 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 04:14 AM
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I like the Stanton Hickory. The others are very nice, but I like the simpler look.

Somewhere in this thread I missed that you were putting recessed lights behind the screen. Have you seen this done in another thread, or is this a NGiovas creation? I've seen lights behind the screen before, but I only remember seeing them shine upwards.

Hmmm.. I could still put recessed lights behind the screen smile.gif

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post #819 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Thanks Bud.  I saw the stars pattern (or something similar), but I haven't seen the other two.  Do you know what brand they are?


Not sure of the exact manufacturer - but here is some info. No info on the star one.

http://www.stargatecinema.com/milky-way-theater-carpet.html
http://www.stargatecinema.com/walk-of-fame-theater-carpet.html

Bud


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post #820 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 04:43 AM
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+1 for the Stanton Hickory

Robin Major

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post #821 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Somewhere in this thread I missed that you were putting recessed lights behind the screen. Have you seen this done in another thread, or is this a NGiovas creation? I've seen lights behind the screen before, but I only remember seeing them shine upwards.

Hmmm.. I could still put recessed lights behind the screen smile.gif

Tim

 

I have seen people use up-lighting, but not recessed lights.  I thought it would be much cleaner.  Plus, I was worried about mounting lights behind the screen and not having them in the way.  Hopefully this works as well as I hope it will.



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post #822 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info Bud.

 

Rmajor - I'm leaning that way, but want to explore other options (if they exist) before making a decision.



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post #823 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Thanks for the info Bud.

Rmajor - I'm leaning that way, but want to explore other options (if they exist) before making a decision.

Both the Milky Way and Walk of Fame carpets are made by Joy Carpets - http://www.joycarpets.com.

Bud


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post #824 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 10:45 AM
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Hey Nick,

 

Your Theatre is coming along nicely! 

 

I am also building a set of SEOS Tempests for my LCR to upgrade my existing setup so it is cool to see some more of these! My parts from Erich should be arriving Wednesday.

 

I am looking forward to seeing how they all look in place especially the Alchemy's as I have entertained the idea of using those as surrounds as well. Look forward to seeing your progress and listening impressions once they are all setup!



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post #825 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Both the Milky Way and Walk of Fame carpets are made by Joy Carpets - http://www.joycarpets.com.

Bud

Thanks for the link.  There are some neon carpets on their site that might be nice for the game room.



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post #826 of 1236 Old 02-25-2013, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for checking things out Cheezit.  I'm pretty excited about the speakers.  Hopefully I can figure out the final design on my columns so I can put the surrounds in them to see how everything fits together.



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post #827 of 1236 Old 02-26-2013, 04:07 PM
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Nick are you going with the Stanton Hickory ?


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post #828 of 1236 Old 02-26-2013, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Nick are you going with the Stanton Hickory ?

 

I haven't decided yet.  I want to look at a few more samples before making a final decision.  I am 99% sure it will be a black carpet with a pattern.



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post #829 of 1236 Old 02-27-2013, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

I have seen people use up-lighting, but not recessed lights.  I thought it would be much cleaner.  Plus, I was worried about mounting lights behind the screen and not having them in the way.  Hopefully this works as well as I hope it will.

I did uplighting on the speakers with small IKEA fixtures, and I was surprised how little I could see the speakers behind the screen through the Centrestage XD. I can only see what the light is shining on directly.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1321097/andys-maple-ale-theatre/100_100#post_22802790


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post #830 of 1236 Old 02-28-2013, 02:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I remember seeing yours Andy.  Do you remember what type and wattage of bulb you used?  I'm hoping my plan to use them overhead works, but we will find out.  I may actually do some electrical work this weekend.  I would love to get rid of the work lights.



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post #831 of 1236 Old 02-28-2013, 06:19 AM
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I think the biggest problem in speaker behind the screen lighting is you need to avoid back lighting the screen material itself, to the extent possible.

One thing that I considered, but haven't tried is this:

May your own 12V LED strip light "fixtures". Use single color, or if you prefer multi-color LED (www.ledwholesalers.com). Cheap.

Take a small strip of something just stiff enough to stand up. What comes to mind is a piece of venetian mini/mico-blind, or any stiff, very narrow material. Depending on the mounting method, even a piece of smooth vinyl like wallpaper, or a stiff stripe of paper might work. Just something to help the LED strip not twist. Although, it's possible the LED may be OK on it's own. Stick the LED adhesive strip to that. Make the light strip length as tall as the speaker, or a little less. Stand these up vertically just to the left and right of each speaker (one side might be enough, experiment). Mount just far enough away from the speaker face (toward the screen) to light the speaker face (wont' take much), but no so far as to cause any sound issues. The "back" of this thing to the screen so no light from the source hits the screen. These could be fixed with brackets or suspended with monofilimant floor to ceiling. With these, and a proper dimming level the speaker fronts (only) will get illuminated, and should be much more clearly visible through the (now not back-lit) screen material.


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post #832 of 1236 Old 02-28-2013, 06:33 AM
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+1 to GetGray's comment that you need to limit the light to reflecting on the speaker only as much as possible. I like GetGray's idea of a small piece of rigid *something* cut to the height of the speaker to hold the LED strip lights in position while giving a paintable black surface exposed to the screen. I don't like the monofilament idea because it is extremely tough to get the angle perfect - the line is simply too prone to twisting, creep and relaxation. I would much prefer taking a coat hanger and twisting it into some sort of el-cheapo bracket to hold the top and bottom. It's easy to mount and easy to bend into adjustment.

The two other options you have are to buy a bulb with a narrow beam angle, say 24 degrees instead of bulbs with 60 degree beam angles or even floods. The narrow the beam angle the more you will be able to target the light.

The other way is to get a trim kit that mechanically narrows the beam angle through an aperature. You see this used a lot in fancy restaurants where they will have a narrow beam pointing straight down on the table but nowhere else, keeping diners in a wash of indirect light.


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post #833 of 1236 Old 02-28-2013, 06:56 AM
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Hi Nick - I'm sure you already know this, but I'm a big proponent of the Stanton carpets. They are amazingly soft under foot. The black Stanton Hickory was my second choice in my HT and I don't think you can go wrong with it. I have seen you post in Mark Labelle's thread so you're probably aware of it, but he has that carpet in red and it may give you some idea of what your room might look like in that pattern.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1180761

All good choices above - good luck!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:

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post #834 of 1236 Old 02-28-2013, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

+1 to GetGray's comment that you need to limit the light to reflecting on the speaker only as much as possible. I like GetGray's idea of a small piece of rigid *something* cut to the height of the speaker to hold the LED strip lights in position while giving a paintable black surface exposed to the screen. I don't like the monofilament idea because it is extremely tough to get the angle perfect - the line is simply too prone to twisting, creep and relaxation. I would much prefer taking a coat hanger and twisting it into some sort of el-cheapo bracket to hold the top and bottom. It's easy to mount and easy to bend into adjustment.

The two other options you have are to buy a bulb with a narrow beam angle, say 24 degrees instead of bulbs with 60 degree beam angles or even floods. The narrow the beam angle the more you will be able to target the light.

The other way is to get a trim kit that mechanically narrows the beam angle through an aperture. You see this used a lot in fancy restaurants where they will have a narrow beam pointing straight down on the table but nowhere else, keeping diners in a wash of indirect light.
Adding to Tim's wire mount idea, if you were careful, with the right amount of "spring", I believe you could tension the LED strip and hold it flat and straight from twisting. Maybe use some spring steel wire (tiger ties for insulation for example or piano wire). It is just a membrane circuit and has a good bit of stiffness on its own, I expect it will withstand a little bit of tension without issue. Attach black construction paper to the back.

Narrow beam angle bulbs aren't as narrow as one might like. Here's a poor photo of my screen wall. Those are 10 degree MR16's. As narrow as you can get. You can see on the floor the narrow "spot" where the light is concentrated. But the screen wash shows how much "spread" they still have. You have to use an aperture or similar to really control the spread.



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post #835 of 1236 Old 02-28-2013, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the lighting ideas guys.  I have a feeling this will be one of the many things I will be tweaking after the theater is up and running for a while.  I have a few ideas of how to modify the fixtures to direct the lighting.  I will have to play with it and see what works best.

 

Ben, thanks for the opinion on the Stanton carpet.  I am really leaning that way.  I actually had an opportunity to visit Mark's theater a couple of years ago and really fell in love with the carpet.  I used to be really afraid of having a patterned carpet - especially on the stage, but after seeing his theater, I completely changed my mind.



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post #836 of 1236 Old 02-28-2013, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I ordered the oak veneer to finish up the columns and soffits.  I don't expect it to come right away, but hopefully it is here some time next week.  I have the router table all set up in my theater to make it easier when working on the columns.  I have been mocking up some different ideas to decorate the columns.  Unfortunately, I'm not real thrilled with any of my ideas yet.  I would really like to make a decision by this weekend so I can finish cutting the last of the pieces.  

 

Once the columns are in place I can begin to measure for the wall panels.  I still have a ton of work to do, but the end is in sight.  



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post #837 of 1236 Old 03-01-2013, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like the veneer is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.  Hopefully I can make some progress this weekend.



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post #838 of 1236 Old 03-02-2013, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I am looking for opinions on my columns.  The boxes by themselves are way to plain for my taste.  I originally had considered cutting out the center and putting some black speaker cloth behind them in a recessed area, but I didn't know how that would look with the oak.  I think some trim around the top might look better.

 

What do you think of what I have mocked up below.  These are my smaller columns that will be on the stage (they aren't as deep, but the other dimensions are the same.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The other question is, do I do the whole thing in stained oak, or do I paint the two gaps between the trim black?



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post #839 of 1236 Old 03-02-2013, 12:54 PM
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I think they look great.

What if you did the opposite of what you're thinking.. Paint the MDF strips black.. veneer and stain the box.. then apply the MDF strips?

Tim

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post #840 of 1236 Old 03-02-2013, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought about that Tim, but the center piece of trim (the wider one) will match up with the trim that will divide the wall.  The trim/rail on the wall will be stained as well.



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