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post #61 of 1236 Old 01-24-2011, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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GoCaboNow, I just checked out your theater pictures. It looks great. I will probably draw up a few different risers and possibly mock something up in the room before building anything.

I have been to Beaverton. My wife and I love Oregon and try to get out there every few years. My brother-in-law lives in Bend and my wife's aunt and uncle live in the Portland area, so it isn't hard to come up with an excuse to come out and visit .
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post #62 of 1236 Old 01-25-2011, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I did some measuring last night to figure out how much drywall I am going to need to box in the HVAC ducts. I'm probably going to have to rent a truck this weekend to pick up some sheets so I can get the boxes started. I also am going to need to get some green glue ordered for this part of the project.

In the mean time I am still trying to figure out the door placement. I am leaning towards the back of the room, but that is still up in the air until I can get some time to layout the seating with tape on the floor to see how much room I have.

Lastly, I really haven't figured out where to put the equipment closet. I am looking for suggestions if anyone has any. How far away from the theater can the equipment room be? I am worried that if it isn't right next to the theater that it will be inconvenient to run back and forth to put in movies, etc. The other option is to build a rack to the right of the screen with a door that would cover it. I would then have to figure out how to seal and ventilate this closet to reduce noise and heat.
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post #63 of 1236 Old 01-25-2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

In the mean time I am still trying to figure out the door placement. I am leaning towards the back of the room, but that is still up in the air until I can get some time to layout the seating with tape on the floor to see how much room I have.

Lastly, I really haven't figured out where to put the equipment closet. I am looking for suggestions if anyone has any.

Nick, I would most likely put the door just in front of my first row seating, but keep behind your first reflection point on that wall (so you can treat that wall area if necessary), if you can do that. I would much rather it be there than in the rear if you're planning a full width riser.

For the eqpt rack, you could just cut it into the north east corner of your game room wall (next to your south HT wall left of the entrance door) extending into the storage area behind that. That location would be right on your way into the theater and convenient in my opinion at least.
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post #64 of 1236 Old 01-25-2011, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback Floyd. One of the challenges I am constantly faced with in my overall basement design is that I am trying to balance several competing items. One of those items is ensuring that I can fit all of my games in the game area without it feeling cramped. I would hate to design and build an entirely new basement only to have a poor layout in one of the rooms, or have it feel like something was an afterthought.

With that said, I need to leave one wall open that is long enough to fit my 14' ball bowler. Right now, the only place it will really fit if I enclose the theater is along the shared wall between the theater and the game area. In order to make that happen, the door would need to be towards one end or the other (not necessarily completely at the end of the wall).

Here is a picture of what the game looks like. I have torn mine apart to store it until the basement is done, but this one belongs to a friend of mine and it is the exact same one I have.




Here is a drawing showing where it might work out:




As far as the equipment closet. I wasn't sure if you meant on the same wall as the door going into the theater. It would then be on the far left side of this wall facing out into the game room and stick into the theater behind the screen wall. The wall to the left of this wall that closes off the storage area has a water softener and other plumbing right behind it, so that wouldn't work.

I think I need to do some more measuring and layout with tape to see how things fit.
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post #65 of 1236 Old 01-25-2011, 09:44 PM
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Hi Nick, glad to see you are into homebrewing - that's is super cool. While I don't do it myself I do have a friend who has done it extensively. I've gotten quite a bit into local craft beer recently, and have considered brewing - but I doubt I'd want to invest the time.

Lots of options for an equipment closet. One would be to frame a false wall (with a false door on the right or left), moving your screen forward. One advantage of this is you could hide all sorts of acoustic treatment behind it with no need to make it look publicly acceptable (same with cabling runs etc). For example you could SuperChunk both corners, and place your equipment just inboard of that. This solution also makes it easier to deal with your game consoles, and all of your cable runs can be short except those to the projector and speaker cables to the surrounds, which seems pretty convenient (those are relatively stable in technological terms, for the PJ just run HDMI/component/composite/S and you should be done for a good long time - though large conduits are always a good idea). One problem is that you would need to move your door backward, risking getting into the area you want to put the Bowler. You'd need to revise the drawings to do a good job evaluating this. Also, I haven't exactly reviewed a lot of the build threads so I don't think I probably have that many ideas compared to those more experienced.

Studiotips Superchunk: http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=535

Another option would be to build an equipment and media closet in one side of the rear of the room. This has the advantage of not threatening the the bowler space (and providing you somewhere to put your media) but will make dealing with the game consoles a hassle.

Are the seats to scale in your image of the theatre? If so, then your room is a LOT larger than mine (which is a good deal, really). One thing I think is that for better acoustics you need to pull your seats all forward so the rear row is farther from the rear wall. Do you have a planned screen size yet? Knowing that will help you figure the viewing angles to know where good seating locations are for different resolution material, and you need to know that to calculate sight lines for your riser(s). Easily done with the calculator here: http://www.theater-calc.com/ Also having an approximate screen size would help you plan for where you want to mount the projector by considering projectors in the technology/price class you'd intend to buy - note that projectors' image quality is better in certain zoom ranges. Your room looks long enough that you'll definitely need a hush box, which is going to steal some height from the ceiling somewhere in the room. With the ceiling height you have, I think you can get away with a reasonable height riser and could easily have a bar-height seating third row like the one I showed you in the other thread. I'm 5'10" and in bar height seating my head is roughly the same position as when I am standing - and since the seats aren't on a riser you don't have to provide clearance for someone to step up.

I can't clearly read the size you have laid out for the room, but it sounds like you also have enough data to run the room through a room mode calculator to get an idea of how much acoustical work you will have ahead of you, or be able to make few-inch adjustments now to avoid more work later. http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm

I'm not sure how good it is for making layouts of things, but the riser I showed you was designed in Google Sketchup. There's an extensive library of architectural features/furniture/etc (I didn't model the sofa and chairs and switches and lights!), though I'm new enough to it to not know if it's any good at creating layouts to build from. The price is right: free.
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post #66 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 02:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks aackthpt. You have provided lots of useful information. I apologize, I think the dimensions were on one of the drawings I posted, but they were not easy to read. I don't have the exact finished room dimensions yet, but I am estimating them to be 24x19.5. Based on a lot of the pictures I have seen on AVS, I shouldn't have any issues putting in two rows of seats. I was a little concerned after going to the Berkline site and looking at seat dimensions. I picked the 090 as a reference since it seams to be somewhat common. If I remember correctly, there specs show that you need 81" per row for a curved row of 4 seats. If I want two rows, this would mean 162". Even if I measure all the way from the rear wall, this starts bringing me pretty close to the screen (assuming it is 3' from the front wall). I need to figure out exactly how much spacing is needed so that I can do a better job of calculating this.

As far as the equipment room, I like the idea of having the equipment hidden behind the screen wall on one side or the other. I was a bit concerned about equipment noise, but I assume I may be able to come up with a way to keep the noise down with the proper design.

I don't know what size screen I am going to use yet, but I am trying to determine general size for planning purposes. I will pick the screen and projector after I have the exact dimensions of the finished room figured out. My plan is to not order them until last. I want to have everything else in place. As far as projector cabling, I was planning to run a conduit, but I was wondering how common it is to use all of the cables you mentioned. It seems that with advances in technology, cables like S video are outdated and aren't likely to be used (I could be wrong).

I may try out some of the acoustical modeling software to see what I am up against. Honestly, I am planning to get some help in this area. Once I have a better idea of the room layout/design, I would like an expert to weigh in on acoustic treatments to ensure I don't spend a fortune making the room worse . I have downloaded Google Sketchup, but haven't tried it yet. I have tried a couple of other simple software packages, but nothing too complicated. I need to start working on a more detailed drawing now that my ideas are coming together.

I am really enjoying planning the entire basement, but I have to admit that it is harder than I thought to get things exactly right. As soon as you get one thing just the way you want it, you read about something else you want to do that shuffles the deck again. The planning is taking a bit longer then I had anticipated, but I want to get it right now. I will be moving forward again soon enough.
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post #67 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 03:49 AM
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I still use laserdiscs, and S or composite (depending on player and video device) are the best video transports for it. Also, composite is all you get on the NES (yes, the old-school 8-bit Nintendo) which I am planning to hook up shortly. I think you may be able to get a component cable for Wii, but I don't think it has a digital video out capability either. Admittedly, if you don't have any old-school sources you can skip the analog video transports. When I ran my cables, I figured I'd just cover every input my projector has and I'd at least be done until I got something else.

What components in your rack are going to make a lot of noise? Maybe if you have a large UPS it will have a fan, and I think some amplifiers (probably multiroom stuff) may have fans but most I know of are passively cooled. The major sources of noise in most HTs, I think, are the projector, then the HVAC system. In my theatre I'm not likely to ever deal with either one. Most guests won't even notice those. Oh, I guess if you go HTPC then you might have a noise issue with that also.

I ran your room dimensions through the calculator, and they actually look pretty good: you don't have any pink or red modal groupings. I didn't try to vary them a bit to see if I could improve them further, but this would be pretty easily done. Still, you're starting from a better point than many acoustically. You could also consider playing with the demo of RPG Room Sizer, it might give you more insight. http://www.rpginc.com/products/roomsizer/index.htm
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post #68 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 03:56 AM
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The door looks small on your layout... add that to your to-do list for improving your design since it will be critical to fitting the bowler in especially if you built the false wall. I think most go with an exterior size door. I've seen french doors also, which I think is a good idea for getting things in and out but it'd be twice the hassle to sound proof so I don't think I'd use them.
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post #69 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 04:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I have slowly been getting rid of all of my older video sources. I still have a VCR (remember those ), but it is on a secondary TV. I have converted most of my home videos to DVD so that I don't have to mess with the tapes. I completely forgot about the Wii using component. Depending where technology is at when I purchase my receiver and projector, I may want to run a component cable. I just want to make sure I leave some room in the conduit. Another item to add to my list so that I don't forget later.

I guess I am used to server racks that make TONS of noise. I know most components are nowhere near that loud, but I assumed that some amps and other components would have a fan. I have a large rack mount UPS that I was planning to move to the theater. It also has a fan. I think with proper planning it won't be an issue.

Thanks for running my room through the calculator. I will play around with that some to see what I come up with. Now is the time to make any adjustments that are needed.
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post #70 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 04:11 AM
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Here's maybe something else to think about....do you really need your HT to be 19' wide (seems like it may be wasting some space to me)? If you take the 090 seating for example, a curved row of 4 are just over 12'. If you add 2-2.5' aisles either side, you could take your room down to around 16-17' vs. 19'+. That would add another 2'+ to the wall length on the left side of your gameroom (running along the storage area), which should then allow you to put your bowling game along that wall, and then you won't have any issues with door placement along the theater wall.
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post #71 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 04:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aackthpt View Post

The door looks small on your layout... add that to your to-do list for improving your design since it will be critical to fitting the bowler in especially if you built the false wall. I think most go with an exterior size door. I've seen french doors also, which I think is a good idea for getting things in and out but it'd be twice the hassle to sound proof so I don't think I'd use them.


I initially put a 30" door going into the theater because the door going into the basement is only 30". I figured that I wouldn't be able to get anything wider than this into the basement anyway, so that should be wide enough. My other thought was that a smaller door would be better for sound containment. I haven't looked at solid core door sizes yet to determine what is available. I will start looking now to make sure I plan for the correct size door. I was planning to avoid double doors or french doors.
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post #72 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 04:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Here's maybe something else to think about....do you really need your HT to be 19' wide (seems like it may be wasting some space to me)? If you take the 090 seating for example, a curved row of 4 are just over 12'. If you add 2-2.5' aisles either side, you could take your room down to around 16-17' vs. 19'+. That would add another 2'+ to the wall length on the left side of your gameroom (running along the storage area), which should then allow you to put your bowling game along that wall, and then you won't have any issues with door placement along the theater wall.

It doesn't show on the drawing, but there is a beam where the theater wall is placed. The ceiling height in the theater will be 7'6". The remainder of the basement (on the other side of the beam) is higher (8' 3"). In addition, there is a lolly column supporting the beam that is hidden by the theater wall.

I told my wife that I could solve this problem by moving the bowler upstairs into the living room .
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post #73 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I received some presents today. I ordered some Green Glue from the Sound Proofing Company so I could start my boxes for the HVAC ducts as well as some boxes to seal some can lights. In addition, I ordered the isolation brackets for the tops of my walls. I originally put some temporary blocks in to hold the walls in place. I will need to go back through and put the brackets in and then remove the temporary blocks. John was super helpful and my order was shipped immediately. It went out yesterday and arrived today with only basic UPS ground shipping (OK, I guess it helps when you live 90 minutes from the warehouse). I'm tempted to take the drive up there when I place my next order.

I also spoke with Roman today about chair spacing so that I could do a little more planning. I think I have a better idea of how much space is needed. Based on the information I got from Roman and from a few of you here in my thread, I made further modifications to my plan. I tried to make the chairs to scale. I also added an equipment closet in the theater and pulled the screen forward. I am not so sure about the size and shape of the riser, but I am sure I will continue to play with that.

If my drawings are accurate, I would have about 12' between the screen and the eyes of the front row viewer.

As always, comments and criticism always welcome.

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post #74 of 1236 Old 01-26-2011, 05:27 PM
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Layout's are always fun the part!

I have a nice wall at my house you could fit that bowling machine... it would save you a lot of space
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post #75 of 1236 Old 01-27-2011, 06:46 AM
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Now you're getting there! With this you can really start to get a feel for the scale of where things go.

Looks like you'd want to go with a 92 to 96 inch screen... http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter

I still say the last row of seats is too close to the rear wall. To make the acoustics decent in the back row the only option that gives you is to make a fully-absorbing rear wall, and even then you might not get decent bass response back there depending on how modal problems go in the room. Curved seating is always going to make this more difficult.

I'd suggest to not show the equipment all the way to the corner, since you're going to want acoustical treatment there. Move it off the corner by ~3 feet... in fact directly behind the screen is ideal since it's sort of an acoustically "dead" zone unless you are planning to use a perforated screen.
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post #76 of 1236 Old 01-27-2011, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback.

Quote:


Looks like you'd want to go with a 92 to 96 inch screen... http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter

I am assuming that you are talking about a 16:9 screen. I am seriously considering going with a 2.35:1 screen. I don't plan on choosing a final screen size until the room is further along, but for planning purposes, I have been looking at a 110" - 120".

Quote:


I still say the last row of seats is too close to the rear wall. To make the acoustics decent in the back row the only option that gives you is to make a fully-absorbing rear wall, and even then you might not get decent bass response back there depending on how modal problems go in the room. Curved seating is always going to make this more difficult.

Thanks for the advice. Those are the type of design decisions that I really need input on. I was mocking up different size risers last night to see how much room they would take up. I was thinking of pulling the chairs forward a bit to leave some room between the back row and the wall. As far as the curved seats, I am not set on that decision yet either. I was thinking that if I go with a wider screen, people wouldn't have to twist as much to face the center of the screen. Still giving that decision some thought.

Quote:


I'd suggest to not show the equipment all the way to the corner, since you're going to want acoustical treatment there. Move it off the corner by ~3 feet... in fact directly behind the screen is ideal since it's sort of an acoustically "dead" zone unless you are planning to use a perforated screen.

I hadn't thought about acoustical treatment in the front corners. My current plan is to go with an AT screen with the speakers behind it. I am going to have to play around some more with the location of the equipment rack.
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post #77 of 1236 Old 01-27-2011, 10:01 AM
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Honestly I didn't read enough of that guy's stuff to know what shape screen he was basing it on. I'd guess at 16:9 but would have to check. All I did was read across from your 12-ft viewing distance to the "can see full effect of 1080p" line and drop down. And I didn't even use a ruler... I am mostly trying to point you toward some tools in most of the comments in which I provide links.

I haven't ever played with anamorphic lenses or thought about going wider than 16:9 so I've no opinions on that. In my case I decided that matching the screen to the projector shape made the most sense. I also have a hefty amount of 4:3 material that I still want to watch, which is worse quality so it makes sense to make it smaller. However I don't know if I'd want it as small as it would have to be in a 2.35! I also have no intent to ever use a masking system. If you are, that obviously affects things significantly.

I personally am not willing to deal with the acoustical hassles of an AT screen, plus I don't have that much depth to play with in my current room, and I like the visible-speaker aesthetic anyhow. But if it's your plan to do that, obviously that changes how you do things.

I'm in the process of studying up on acoustics in a major way, so that's in the forefront of my mind lately.
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post #78 of 1236 Old 01-27-2011, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Honestly I didn't read enough of that guy's stuff to know what shape screen he was basing it on. I'd guess at 16:9 but would have to check. All I did was read across from your 12-ft viewing distance to the "can see full effect of 1080p" line and drop down. And I didn't even use a ruler... I am mostly trying to point you toward some tools in most of the comments in which I provide links.

I haven't ever played with anamorphic lenses or thought about going wider than 16:9 so I've no opinions on that. In my case I decided that matching the screen to the projector shape made the most sense. I also have a hefty amount of 4:3 material that I still want to watch, which is worse quality so it makes sense to make it smaller. However I don't know if I'd want it as small as it would have to be in a 2.35! I also have no intent to ever use a masking system. If you are, that obviously affects things significantly.

I personally am not willing to deal with the acoustical hassles of an AT screen, plus I don't have that much depth to play with in my current room, and I like the visible-speaker aesthetic anyhow. But if it's your plan to do that, obviously that changes how you do things.

I'm in the process of studying up on acoustics in a major way, so that's in the forefront of my mind lately.

Sorry, I thought you were specifically suggesting a 16:9 screen. I appreciate the link to the tool. I still have some thinking to do around my screen choice. Masking is one of the things I still need to do lots of research on. I really want to see how easy the systems work. I also want to look into DIY masking systems.

What are some of your concerns with AT screens? I know that people are divided on their use. I woiuld be curious to hear your opinion.

I have been trying to read through some of the acoustical treatment thread, but it is a lot of information to digest. I found that if I read a few pages at a time and then take a break to work on my design I can apply some of what I read. In the end, I am starting to fully appreciate the importance of acoustical treatment, but I doubt I will have enough knowledge to take full advantage of my space. I am planning to hire someone to help with some of this design work.
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post #79 of 1236 Old 01-27-2011, 12:14 PM
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I can't say I've studied all of the issues with the "AT" screens so I definitely don't know all the issues. I do know that they aren't actually acoustically transparent - their level of transparency varies significantly with frequency so you are supposed to EQ the channels for the speakers that are behind to adjust for it (hopefully this gets better with each successive generation of screen but I bet you can't entirely get away from it). I've also recently read of people who had some comb filtering effects who had to put absorption on the front baffles of their speakers (beside the drivers) to stop it. I wonder if such effects can't happen between the screen and the wall.

As for the video side, I have also heard that perforated screens can cause visual moiré effect. I'm not familiar enough to know whether that is a modern or ancient concern, or understand factors that make it better or worse. Plus, the perforated screens do cause some loss of brightness of the projected image.

I came to HT more from the audio world, so I have the audio person's setup - speakers out into the room. I also have a KISS attitude for most things, in which I figure that rather than adjusting things to fix them later I'm better off if I can avoid breaking them in the first place.
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post #80 of 1236 Old 01-28-2011, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I decided to do some long overdue clean up work tonight. When I moved into the house, there was a tangled mess of wires in the corner of one wall next to the electric panel (bottom right gray box in the bar area). These wires consisted of the phone lines for the house, coax for the cable modem, coax from the satellite dish and a several cat5e cables the original owner ran.

Most of the cat5e and coax runs are several feet (or more) too long. I view this as a good thing so that I can reroute them when cleaning up and then leave a service loop for future modifications. Over time these became a tangled mess as I moved cables around and added new ones.

I purchased a Ramset today so that I don't have to keep borrowing one from my friend. They are very cheap, so I figured it was well worth it. I also picked up a 24x48 sheet of 3/4 plywood from the Home Depot damage cart for $2.00 that had some red spray paint on one side. I used the Ramset to mount this to the concrete wall next to the electric panel. I then took some scrap PVC pipe and made some tubes to route some of the wires.



I'm not finished yet, but I have a good start. The tan box at the top left is an old empty alarm enclosure that was laying around. I put my telephone distribution panel and VOIP equipment in there. I also got the modem mounted. Tomorrow hopefully I can get the satellite switch and network switch installed and the wiring cleaned up. Then all I will have left for this corner is to come up with some sort of power strip to plug everything in. The small shelf to the left has a small UPS to keep the telephony equipment and modem up during a power outage. They don't draw much power, so I can usually run them for about 45 minutes on battery power.

I am still trying to make a final decision on where my equipment closet will go so that I can move the wiring for the whole house audio along with a few network and coax cables. Lastly, I will need to move my home automation panel along with the sub panel that is currently in the corner of what will be the theater.
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post #81 of 1236 Old 02-02-2011, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I didn't make much progress over the past few days. I have spent most of my time preparing for this weekend's Superbowl party. I did get more of the wiring cleaned up, but before I can finish, I decided to upgrade my 16 port switch to a 24 port Gigabit switch. Does anyone have any suggestions? I want something that can be mounted on the board I installed. I am also leaning towards mounting my automation panel on this board. There is plenty of room and it will keep all of the wiring in one location.

Once this weekend is over, I want to get back into "build mode". My friend who helped me with the initial framing called last night and said things are quiet right now and he would be willing to stop out again to help finish up the framing. I think it would be crazy not to take him up on his offer. I have decided to stick with my plan to have a separate theater room. The only other decision I need to make before framing is the location of the theater door. I think that all other pending decisions can be made after framing (prior to drywall and wiring).
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post #82 of 1236 Old 02-02-2011, 06:46 AM
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Must be a heck of a network if you need a 24-port switch. It looks hard-ish to find a switch in that size range with wallmount slots, but did find:

NETGEAR ProSafe JGS524 on eBay ($120)
Cisco Linksys SR2024C on eBay ($150)

If you really demand this wall mount thing and aren't willing to DIY a solution to attach to rackmount ears or something (that's probably what I would do, attach wood blocks to screw the rackmount ears onto) then you are going to pay a premium given that you can get 24-port gigabit switches in the 68-75 dollar range:

D-Link managed switch DES-3226 (older model I guess) on Amazon ($64 + ship)
Cisco SR224G on buy.com ($75/free ship)

I'm not sure about the forum rules of posting links to this stuff, so I'm just giving hints for the moment. It's all fairly easy to find... all I did was use Google shopping.
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post #83 of 1236 Old 02-02-2011, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I have cat5e runs to every room in the house (except the bathrooms ). In many of the rooms, there are two outlets. I put them behind the TVs, at every desk and in a couple of sitting areas. I currently have all of the ports used. I wanted to allow for future expansion.

I like your idea of using a rack mount unit with wood blocks to mount it, but they tend to get pretty wide. The units you listed are not actually gigabit switches. Only two of the ports can be used for gigabit. The other ports are standard 10/100 ports. With the amount of data required for sound, video, gaming, cameras, etc. I want to make sure all ports are gigabit.

I'm searching on ebay to see what is out there. I found a great rack mount gigabit switch (that will be in my equipment rack) for cheap. It looked brand new when I got it.
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Sorry about that... they said gigabit and I guess I should have had a careful look at the specs. I didn't realize they were only gigabit-uplink, which I clearly knew was not what was requested. I was surprised to find gigabit switches with that many ports for that low a cost... that explains it.

That's some serious home networking! For the moment I just have wifi flying all over, but I do have client bridges so I can have some faster network segments and deal with wired-only devices.
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post #85 of 1236 Old 02-02-2011, 08:59 AM
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I've been using a D-Link DGS-1024D switch for a while now. I've been really happy with it. It runs pretty cool and uses a little bit less power than most.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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As far as I can tell, the first two I mentioned ARE gigabit on all the ports, but the second two are only 10/100 on all the ports.
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post #87 of 1236 Old 02-02-2011, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

I've been using a D-Link DGS-1024D switch for a while now. I've been really happy with it. It runs pretty cool and uses a little bit less power than most.

Thanks, I found one on ebay a short while ago for $75 buy it now, but while I was looking up the specs, someone bought it . It looks like I can get a new one for about $140. I will keep searching to see if I can find one on ebay, but if I don't find one soon, I will probably pull the trigger on a new one.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aackthpt View Post

As far as I can tell, the first two I mentioned ARE gigabit on all the ports, but the second two are only 10/100 on all the ports.

Sorry aackthpt, you are absolutely correct. I was in a hurry earlier and just quickly looked up the other two models. The first two are the type of switch I am looking for.

Another option (if the price was right) would be to build a small metal shelf and stack 2 or 3 smaller switches. The 24 port switches are pretty wide. Stacking may be a better option.
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post #89 of 1236 Old 02-03-2011, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Thanks, I found one on ebay a short while ago for $75 buy it now, but while I was looking up the specs, someone bought it . It looks like I can get a new one for about $140. I will keep searching to see if I can find one on ebay, but if I don't find one soon, I will probably pull the trigger on a new one.

Well, after looking at the seller of the switch, I noticed that he had sold 5 of them, so I sent him a note asking if he has any more. He did, so I picked one up. Once it comes in I will be able to clean up the remainder of the wiring.

While I am cleaning up the wiring, I was wondering how many ethernet connections I may need in the theater. Is there any reason to run one to where the projector will be? I haven't even looked at projectors yet, so I don't know if there is a need. I will have a switch in my equipment rack, so I was thinking that I would run a single ethernet cable into the theater and then if I need more, I can run them from the switch.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

While I am cleaning up the wiring, I was wondering how many ethernet connections I may need in the theater. Is there any reason to run one to where the projector will be? I haven't even looked at projectors yet, so I don't know if there is a need. I will have a switch in my equipment rack, so I was thinking that I would run a single ethernet cable into the theater and then if I need more, I can run them from the switch.

I ran a Cat5 to the projector and one to the screen, from the equipment closet. Cat5 cable is good for other uses, such as wired IR repeaters, screen motor control, remote signalling, T-stat, etc.
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