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post #991 of 1236 Old 05-28-2013, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by vanice View Post

I see you "borrowed" the design for the center section of your columns from BIG and Damelon's build. I plan to "borrow" it as well. Any building tips you care to share or were they fairly straight forward to construct? I was thinking that these might be one of the last things that I do but I'm kinda changing my mind. Might move them up to next on the list after completing my one wall section of panels.

Only the center of the columns? smile.gif hehe. Sandman's basic design seems to keep paying it forward. I have to check twice sometimes here to make sure I'm not in a different thread!!

Nick's columns are much more "Balanced" than the ones in my theater. Mine look more top heavy.

I like the switch on the side of the fake column.... at least you used that space for something! Mine are just wasted space. They could have made a nice simple secret cabinet or something


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post #992 of 1236 Old 05-28-2013, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Don't you think "borrowed" is a bit harsh?  There might be some remote similarities between my columns and Damelon's rolleyes.gif.

 

 

 

Ok.... MAYBE they are exactly the same biggrin.gif.  I had planned on doing half round columns like Sandman's for a long time, but was worried about the width of the column at the front.  I wanted enough room to be able to angle my speakers if needed.  This design gives me more flexibility to move the speaker around slightly.

 

My design for the grills is very similar.  Two layers on both the top and bottom.  The corners are drilled out on one layer and the black pipe was epoxied in.  I used wood supports in the back corners so I could staple the speaker cloth to them.  The base is a solid square to make it more rigid.  I will have to set the speaker on the base and slide it in.

 

As far as tips - measure each individual column to get the exact size of the center section.  I had slight variances (1/8" - 1/4").  That is enough to make the column too tight or too loose.  Also, remember that you will need to leave enough of a gap to account for the fabric being wrapped over the top and bottom.  You want a slightly snug friction fit, but you don't want it too tight.  You will need to experiment to determine how much of a gap is needed for the fabric.  I don't remember for sure, but I think I used 3/16" for my GOM fabric.

 

One other tip - I spent a lot of time ensuring the upper and lower column pieces are exactly level, so I wanted a way to cut the black pipe to the exact length.  I have a cutoff saw with a fiber cutting wheel, but they don't always provide an exact square cut if the blade flexes at all.  I ended up using a rotary pipe cutter figuring I could just replace the blade when I am done.  It allowed me to mark the length of each pipe and get an exact cut.

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post #993 of 1236 Old 05-28-2013, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I like the switch on the side of the fake column.... at least you used that space for something! Mine are just wasted space. They could have made a nice simple secret cabinet or something

 

You could hinge the center sections and hide some liquor bottles in there for an "adult only" concession stand smile.gif.

 

Sometimes I feel bad that I didn't come up with my own original design, but others have proven that this design looks great.  Plus, I figure none of my local friends will know where I got all of the ideas from rolleyes.gif.



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post #994 of 1236 Old 05-28-2013, 12:36 PM
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Thanks for the tips. The pipe cutting one is something I hadn't really thought about so I am glad you brought it up.


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post #995 of 1236 Old 05-28-2013, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. The pipe cutting one is something I hadn't really thought about so I am glad you brought it up.

 

I bought the pipe in 10' sections at home depot and had them cut it into thirds.  It was cheaper this way, was much easier to transport and I had an extra few inches on each piece so I could cut them to the exact length at home.



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post #996 of 1236 Old 05-28-2013, 08:55 PM
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A suggestion for anyone getting ready to make fabric panels - stock up on staples

Yep ... I've been through about 15,000 so far ! eek.gif

Cheers,

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post #997 of 1236 Old 05-29-2013, 05:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick lighting question.  I have 18 gu10 50 watt halogen bulbs in my soffits.  I would have thought that they would put out plenty of light for my room, but even with all of the lights on, the room is very dim.  As I add the acoustic panels to the walls, it is getting even darker.  Others have posted that the their room is bright enough with these fixtures.  I'm wondering if it is the actual bulb I am using.  They really seem pretty dim for a 50 watt bulb.  I would think 18 of them would put out a lot more light.

 

Because I needed so many bulbs, I just ordered a bulk box of cheap bulbs.  I'm wondering if this is the issue.  I may stop at Home Depot and pick up a 50W GE bulb to see if it is any brighter.

 

Just thought I would post here to see if anyone has any suggestions.



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post #998 of 1236 Old 05-29-2013, 05:23 AM
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I have the same fixtures all over my house and also plan to use a good number in my home theater when I get to that point. Although there are differences between different bulbs, those differences are very slight, so I wouldn't expect much difference.

One warning against using cheap bulbs....a lot will have a slight yet audible "buzz" of "hum" when dimmed. I've also noticed diminished lamp light vs. other premium bulbs. In short, you get what you pay for. I finally gave up trying to find cheap bulbs and just stuck with the Philips bulbs for long-life and no audible noises when dimmed.


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post #999 of 1236 Old 05-29-2013, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Quick lighting question.  I have 18 gu10 50 watt halogen bulbs in my soffits.  I would have thought that they would put out plenty of light for my room, but even with all of the lights on, the room is very dim.  As I add the acoustic panels to the walls, it is getting even darker.  Others have posted that the their room is bright enough with these fixtures.  I'm wondering if it is the actual bulb I am using.  They really seem pretty dim for a 50 watt bulb.  I would think 18 of them would put out a lot more light.

Because I needed so many bulbs, I just ordered a bulk box of cheap bulbs.  I'm wondering if this is the issue.  I may stop at Home Depot and pick up a 50W GE bulb to see if it is any brighter.

Yes and No. For me, the lights are plenty bright. I only ever really turn them on for two things. 1) To quick show people the room. 2) Before/After a movie to get in and out of the theater. So I have no reason to have the room as bright as a normal room. In my thread I even experimented with buying some cheap GU10 LED bulbs on ebay (Like $4 ea), since LEDs can be a LOT brighter. The problem was that my dimmer did not support lower voltage lights. Even OFF it puts out power... I didn't know that. The bulbs would flash even when the dimmer was completely OFF!!! Still, that is an option for you.
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One warning against using cheap bulbs....a lot will have a slight yet audible "buzz" of "hum" when dimmed. I've also noticed diminished lamp light vs. other premium bulbs. In short, you get what you pay for. I finally gave up trying to find cheap bulbs and just stuck with the Philips bulbs for long-life and no audible noises when dimmed.

This. I do get the audible hum when I dim the lights, though it is very small. If I'm watching something like sports, I'll have them on and dimmed, but for movies they are always off. I think that using LED rope accent lights are a much better method for dimly lighting a room, as long as all of the light is sort of indirect. I never did like direct light from recessed lights and preferred lights like over-the-cabinet lights. Not great for reading, but fine for everything else.


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post #1000 of 1236 Old 05-29-2013, 08:27 AM
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I have the GU10 bulbs and they are spaced pretty evenly around the room (not just along the perimeter). 17 in total. The room is still pretty dim. Perfect for a theater but I wouldn't want to do any reading in there.

The bulbs also have different beam spreads. If you have narrow spots the light is pretty pinpointed.

I suppose what I am saying is I don't think there is a problem with the bulbs.

Tim

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post #1001 of 1236 Old 05-29-2013, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

In my thread I even experimented with buying some cheap GU10 LED bulbs on ebay (Like $4 ea), since LEDs can be a LOT brighter. The problem was that my dimmer did not support lower voltage lights. Even OFF it puts out power... I didn't know that. The bulbs would flash even when the dimmer was completely OFF!!! Still, that is an option for you.

I learned this myself as well a few weeks ago. I have a Lutron Maestro dimmer 3 way switch with IR, model MIR-603THW-WH, so my Harmony (and iRule one day) can control it. I had to order it through Home Depot and at the time, the Lutron rep said it was not yet tested with dimmable LEDs so couldn't guarantee them to work. I wanted to use LED bulbs in my cans so ordered a bunch of 12W 4 LED dimmable GU10 bulbs from ebay to give it a try.

The switch does dim the 6 12W LED bulbs on that circuit well enough. However, I saw the same flashing phenomenon when in the full off position- very slight, not enough to illuminate anything, but clearly there was some current there. In complete darkness, when looking close up, you can see the bulbs ever so slightly flash. I had hoped that it might have worked okay considering their newer stock of the Maestro switches (albeit not the IR equipped ones) are now packaged indicating LED compatibility. I have one of these very non IR Maestro 3 way switches in the bar with 4 of these same 12W LED GU10 bulbs and do not see the flashing on those. As a workaround, I swapped out one of the 6 LED bulbs with a 50W halogen, and there is now no flashing on the other 5 at all. I just picked the least noticeable can, the one right above the switch when entering the room, and am going to live with it. I doubt and hope that no one other than me will notice.
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post #1002 of 1236 Old 05-29-2013, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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I am in the same boat - I have not had a good experience using dimmable LED bulbs in combination with my Leviton Vizia RF dimmers in other parts of the house.  I have experienced the same flashing/flickering and buzzing issues.  Leviton just came out with a new electronically controlled dimmer that is specifically designed for use with LEDs.  It can still be used with standard bulbs with a load up to 600 watts.  This is what I purchased for my theater.  They were quite pricey compared to the standard z-wave dimmers, so I hope they work.  If not, I will be returning them and picking up the cheaper ones and sticking with incandescent bulbs for now.  

 

Of course, all of this is independent of my bulb brightness issues...



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post #1003 of 1236 Old 05-29-2013, 06:04 PM
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As an FYI - Lutron, Vantage, etc. all have compatibility charts on their websites when it comes to each different type of LED driver from virtually all global manufacturers. I was seriously trying to buy a bunch of "warm" LEDs that are the 50w GU10 equivalents for the theater to cut down on any heat load in the room since the standard halogen bulbs run hot.

To make a long story short, even the best of the LED fixtures that could be dimmed from 1% to 99% still had no way to achieve an extremely low "burn" of light. Lutron said that even at 1% on (99% dimmed), the LED was around 20% of its lumen output. This means that even the most minimal setting, the light was registering 20% of its lumen output just to turn on. Getting anything dimmer was impossible. That sealed the deal for me going the way of the standard halogens - easier to integrate, cheaper and could achieve the super-low burn I may want in a lighting scene.

I know you are past the point of no return with your fixtures, but rest assured you have the brightest and most powerful bulbs rated for those 18 fixtures. It may be a bit tougher when you are in there cleaning, but I wouldn't fret a moment about everything being a little dim when the lights are fully on.
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post #1004 of 1236 Old 05-29-2013, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the lighting feedback.  This is low on the priority list right now, so I am just going to leave it as is until I can get everything else finished up.  I still need to get my rope lighting and step lighting installed as well.  That may help some.



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post #1005 of 1236 Old 05-31-2013, 06:57 AM
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I was taking a couple of pics for Vanice this morning for a panel side profile, so I thought I'd get a better side column pic and sort of compare. I should have used the same column you did for a better side by side.

We actually toyed with the notion you ended up implementing, which was to put a contrasting color between the ribs. We thought about both black, and a brushed aluminum.

The biggest thing is that since you did the wood, you won't run into the small paint scuffs I tend to get from people. Especially with the Latex paint. Something else you will notice, is that the "Ribs" on my columns are not completely flush with my panels. The ribs on the columns were a big surprise when it came to panel mounting, since they are at both the top and bottom of the black grill, and panels overlapped them, you couldn't just push a panel into place. It required us to slide them up behind the ribs. We never thought of that up front. So we had to allow for some wiggle room to get some of the panels in at a slight angle, since the large middle ones had no spot where they could just be pushed flat against the wall with the column already in place. They all had to be slid in from the side, or in the case of the black panels, from the top and bottom, since they spanned the whole distance between the two columns.

Side - Yours


Side - Mine


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post #1006 of 1236 Old 05-31-2013, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I will have to take some pictures of my columns now that the panels are in place.  I had to do the same thing with sliding the panels in place.  I think that is the easiest solution.  I left the trim long and trimmed it to fit exactly once I made the first panel.  It worked out well.

 

I'm really glade I did the black between the trim.  It really ties everything together.

 

Hopefully I can get several more panels done this weekend.  I glued up a few more during the week.



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post #1007 of 1236 Old 05-31-2013, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

I will have to take some pictures of my columns now that the panels are in place.  I had to do the same thing with sliding the panels in place.  I think that is the easiest solution.  I left the trim long and trimmed it to fit exactly once I made the first panel.  It worked out well.

I'm really glade I did the black between the trim.  It really ties everything together.

I really like the black too. When I did mine I was thinking paint, but I really like how you did yours. Would have been a cool contrast on the columns to be sure! It's really interesting to see your build to me because of how so much of it is similar to mine. What changes you made and how you tackled certain tasks differently has been fun. It's interesting too since you started your build before I did, but at that point you were mostly doing the walls, and then later adapted the interior to follow a lot of what we did when we tackled Sandman's design. You also had a very similar space to me, so you could easily do that... I think I even remember you popping in my build thread stating exactly that. I wish you were closer so I could pop in and see you finished design, but I fear I'll have to just enjoy the pictures!


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post #1008 of 1236 Old 05-31-2013, 10:43 AM - Thread Starter
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damelon,  

 

You are welcome to stop by any time.  Who knows, you may end up in the area some day (just don't do it during Winter smile.gif).



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post #1009 of 1236 Old 05-31-2013, 11:48 AM
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First - a huge thanks to both Mr. Tim and Dave (fax6202) for all of the staining help.  I have gone from complete disappointment at the beginning of the week to being close to my end goal at the end of the week.  It is amazing what a difference one day can make.

Tonight I decided to start from scratch and work on some new test samples for the stain.  I ended up much closer to where I had hoped to be.  The real test is going to be how it looks with the finish coat on it.  I am waiting for the high performance poly to be delivered some time next week, so in the mean time I will work on prep and fine tuning the color.

Here is the look I am wanting to achieve:






Here is a preview of where I am so far (without the satin poly finish).  I apologize for the chewed up veneer sample.  It was left over from my ogee test.



Where is your goal sample from ?

What color is that wood and the name is what you used ?

Is that just ordinary stain ?

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #1010 of 1236 Old 05-31-2013, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Where is your goal sample from ?

What color is that wood and the name is what you used ?

Is that just ordinary stain ?

 

You have some reading to do biggrin.gif.  The staining details are documented earlier in the thread, but to answer your questions:

 

The goal sample is from Sandman's theater.

 

The wood itself is white oak, but the color is custom.  It is a multi-step process.  I used water-based wood dye and protected it with a water-based poly clear.

 

Color was created using the following colors:

 

  • red mahogany grain filler (darkened grain)
  • cordovan stain
  • multiple coats of red stain
  • clear


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post #1011 of 1236 Old 06-01-2013, 08:19 AM
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Thanks TMcG and Tim.  The stain has really transformed the room.  The oak looked good before, but now it really pops.

Tim, the sprayer was fantastic.  It took a little practice, but it did a great job.  My biggest issue was getting too close to the wood in a couple of spots and spraying the stain a little too heavy.  It worked best spraying a lighter coat and going back over it.  I ended up using denatured alcohol to dilute the dye, so it dried very fast (completely dry in around a minute), so I was able to re-coat quickly.  I did all of the columns and soffits first - taking a break and cleaning up the gun between each color.  I waited a couple of hours before spraying the clear.  The clear does take longer to dry (about an hour).  I repeated the process the next day for all of the trim.

Staining process:

NOTE:  I'm not going to go through the veneering process.  It should be the exact same steps for solid oak.  I used white oak for all wood in the theater.
  1. Sanding - I used a palm sander for sanding all flat surfaces.  I used sponge sanding blocks for all corners/edges.  I prefer Mirka Gold sandpaper.  Seems to do a really good job and lasts a long time.  I sanded everything 3 times.  Once each using 180 grit, 220 grit and finishing with 320 grit.  The surface was extremely smooth and had a nice sheen to it when done.  It had a glass like feel.  In my experience, sanding is critical to getting the best possible finish.  I chose to use alcohol to dilute the dye.  When testing with water, it seemed to raise the grain too much for my liking.  I tried pre-raising the grain with water and then re-sanding, but it still wasn't quite as smooth after the first coat of dye was applied.  When using alcohol, the wood remained extremely smooth between coats.
  2. Grain Filler - I purchased a red mahogany grain filler from Constantine's in Florida.  It gave the the oak a slightly darker tone, but not much.  The grain becomes a very dark brown, almost black color.  I put a small amount of the paste in a plastic container and diluted it with mineral spirits.  I preferred it to be about the consistency of thick pancake batter.  If it was much thicker it was much harder to apply.  If it was too thin, it color the grain, but didn't really fill it much.  I applied it using small pieces of burlap.  I applied it by rubbing across the grain and then finishing with a circular motion to ensure it filled all of the grain.  There is a dark brown haze on all of the wood after doing this.  I let it dry for about 30 minutes and then rubbed off the excess using 0000 steel wool.  I rubbed the steel wool across the grain, not with.  This left the filler in the grain, but removed it from the rest of the wood.  The wood was still extremely smooth after this step.  I tested sanding it lightly, but it seemed to remove too much color.  I chose to only use the steel wool.  I recommend waiting at least 48 hours before applying a water based stain.  I ended up waiting a week.  As previously mentioned, this process has an extremely strong odor.  It is critical to wear a respirator and to make sure the vents are blocked to prevent the smell from penetrating to the rest of the house.  Even with the room closed off, we could still smell it slightly in the rest of the house for almost a full day.
  3. Staining - I applied two different colors of stain.  The first color was Transtint Dye number 6007 Cordovan.  When Sandman did his staining, he did the cordovan first and then applied the grain filler.  I tried this, but the grain filler completely removed the cordovan stain, so I just flipped the two steps.  When the cordovan was mixed per the instructions, it was too dark.  The end result was a darker reddish brown than I wanted.  Initially I resolved this by spraying the cordovan and then hand rubbing the first coat of red which removed some of the cordovan.  This worked well, but it was labor intensive and it was difficult to control how much stain you were removing.  I ended up experimenting with different mixtures and found that if I cut the amount of dye in half, the color was perfect and I could spray all coats with no hand applying.  I ended up mixing 2 oz of Transtint dye in 1 gallon of alcohol instead of the recommended 1/2 gallon.  The next step was to apply Transtint Dye number 6021 Bright Red.  This was mixed per the instructions - 2 oz per 1/2 gallon.  I did one section of the soffit at a time.  I sprayed 4 coats of red, waiting at least one minute between coats.  After the third coat, the stain looked like what I wanted when wet, but would dry to more of a brown color.  This is normal and it will have the brighter color when the clear is applied.  I applied one more coat and let it completely dry (4 coats total).  Note that I did not sand between coats.  The coats were extremely smooth and the wood still felt like glass when dry.  The key is to apply very thin coats.  Don't try to get all of the color in a single coat.  The color will build up and remain smooth if done in several coats.
  4. Top Coat - I ended up using the General Finishes High Performance Poly in a satin finish.  I am extremely happy with how easy it was to work with.  No need to dilute.  You can add a tint/dye to it, but I left it as is.  It is a white milky color in the can, but it dries crystal clear.  I waited a couple of hours to ensure the stain was dry (Transtint says you can apply the top coat almost immediately, but I chose to wait).  You have to wait at least 48 hours to apply the clear if you use an oil based stain/dye.  It had been a week since I used the grain filler, so I wasn't worried.  General Finishes recommends spraying 3 coats.  I sprayed a total of 4 coats.  I sprayed the first coat, waited about 1 minute (I could see the first coat starting to dry) and then immediately applied a second coat.  I waited about 10 minutes and then applied another two coats - waiting about 1 minute between coats.  When done, the finish has a much deeper grain and color.  The satin finish doesn't really have much shine, but looks better than a flat finish.  I haven't tested the finish yet to ensure it is protecting the die.  While I was spraying the first coat, I had one instance where a drop of clear that was on the bottom of the sprayer cup hit a piece of trim.  I made the mistake of trying to wipe it off with my finger (wearing a glove).  It removed a bit of red in that spot.  Once dry, that shouldn't happen.  Also note - if stopping between coats, make sure you wipe off the tip of the sprayer with a clean wet rag.  I took a quick break at one point and the tip became clogged.  It washed off quickly with some warm water.

One note - spraying any finish creates a light coating of dust on everything in the room.  It was important to wipe everything down with a tack cloth before spraying.  This was especially important for the trim that was laying on the floor between colors/finishes.  As previously mentioned, I had some variation in color - more than likely due to my spraying technique.

Found it smile.gif

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post #1012 of 1236 Old 06-02-2013, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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This week wasn't as productive as last week, but I continued to make progress.  Most of it wasn't visible, but still progress.

 

I continued to work on the acoustic panels.  I was able to get one of the large black panels installed:

 

 

 

I also glued up 6 more panels for the rear sides of the room.  I didn't want to wrap them until I finished the facing on the rack and closet.  I went ahead and ordered a custom sized door for the closet.  I also don't want to finish the last few panels on the entry wall because I want to put the wide throw hinges on before attaching the panels to the door.  I'm going to have my friend help me install the door, finish up the face on the rack and install the wide throw hinges on the entry door.  I am hoping he can help me out in the next week.

 

To keep moving, I started working on the back wall.  Because the plan calls for 4" of OC 703, I had to build out the walls so I could attach the moldings and acoustic panels.  I got from the chair rail down competed.  I installed the base trim and most of the chair rial trim.  I also started installing the first layer of OC 703 on the lower half.

 

 

I can't work on the upper half of the rear wall until I build the projector shelf/box.  I can't determine the exact size until I have my anamorphic lens and mount.  I ordered a Cineslide and Isco lens from Scott (getgray) at Tech HT.  Hopefully it will arrive soon so I can finish up the rear wall.

 

With things finally starting to come together, I decided it was time to make a decision on the carpet.  I previously narrowed it down to two patterns.  I didn't find anything else that I liked, so I decided to choose from one of these two.  I thought I would ask the installer his opinion before making a final decision.  I am purchasing my own carpet directly, so I was looking for an installer who would work with carpet I purchased.  I ended up finding a certified master carpet installer who specializes in woven carpet and pattern matching.  He has 47 years of experience.  He retired and only takes on small jobs just to keep busy.  His pricing was slightly less than the local shops.  Based on his experience, That works for me.

 

He came out yesterday to measure the room.  He spent about an hour measuring and talking to me about carpet.  His attention to detail sounds great.  He also helped me make the final decision on the carpet pattern.  I was slightly thinking about this one:

 

 

He has installed this carpet before.  If you look closely, you can see there is a small single thread tan "dot" throughout the carpet.  He told me that if I choose this carpet it will take extra time because he will make the lines of dots perfectly straight throughout the entire room.  He said most installers would line it up, but then the lines will curve when they stretch the carpet.  He doesn't like that.  I ended up deciding to pick the other carpet, but this is the type of installer I want.  Here is the one I am going to go with:

 

 

I should have the measurements tomorrow so I can order the carpet.  I will likely order it right away.  I only need to get a few more pieces of base trim installed before the carpet can be done.  I hope to get these things done quickly so the carpet can be installed soon.

 

Trying to keep things moving - I am trying to make some of the final purchases for the theater (at least to get it up and running).  I finally ordered my rope light.  I went with a red LED rope.

 

Still need to order rack shelves, cables and amps for the subs and shaker motors.  I'm sure I will think of a few more things as time goes on.

 

I obviously don't do well with deadlines, but my sons told me that they have some friends coming into town in early July and they are going to stay with us for a couple of days.  They want the theater done when they arrive.  Hopefully I can make that happen.



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I like that carpet smile.gif

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post #1014 of 1236 Old 06-03-2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

This week wasn't as productive as last week, but I continued to make progress.  Most of it wasn't visible, but still progress.

I continued to work on the acoustic panels.  I was able to get one of the large black panels installed:





I also glued up 6 more panels for the rear sides of the room.  I didn't want to wrap them until I finished the facing on the rack and closet.  I went ahead and ordered a custom sized door for the closet.  I also don't want to finish the last few panels on the entry wall because I want to put the wide throw hinges on before attaching the panels to the door.  I'm going to have my friend help me install the door, finish up the face on the rack and install the wide throw hinges on the entry door.  I am hoping he can help me out in the next week.

To keep moving, I started working on the back wall.  Because the plan calls for 4" of OC 703, I had to build out the walls so I could attach the moldings and acoustic panels.  I got from the chair rail down competed.  I installed the base trim and most of the chair rial trim.  I also started installing the first layer of OC 703 on the lower half.




I can't work on the upper half of the rear wall until I build the projector shelf/box.  I can't determine the exact size until I have my anamorphic lens and mount.  I ordered a Cineslide and Isco lens from Scott (getgray) at Tech HT.  Hopefully it will arrive soon so I can finish up the rear wall.

It's amazing how much just 1-2' feet of space each way make a room so much bigger! Keep up the good work, there isn't much left!


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post #1015 of 1236 Old 06-04-2013, 09:21 AM
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It's all coming together, the panels and carpet will really make it feel complete. Looking forward to seeing the carpet installed. I'm partial to the Hickory as that is what I chose but the Vantex looks nice. I don't think I've seen that one before in a theater.


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post #1016 of 1236 Old 06-04-2013, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

It's all coming together, the panels and carpet will really make it feel complete. Looking forward to seeing the carpet installed. I'm partial to the Hickory as that is what I chose but the Vantex looks nice. I don't think I've seen that one before in a theater.

 

Thanks.  If I decided to go with a red carpet, it would have been Hickory without any questions.  I have seen it locally in a theater and loved it.  With the black, I was worried about the little tan dots throughout the carpet. Now I just need to get it installed smile.gif.



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post #1017 of 1236 Old 06-04-2013, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Carpet installer gave me the measurements today.  In the end, the installation labor will be lower than expected and the materials will be slightly higher than my original estimate (from when I started the project), so I will come out slightly higher than budget, but not enough to change my mind on the carpet selection.

 

One thing that has been on my mind is that the installer insists that I use a felt (will be synthetic felt) pad because it is woven carpet.  He said the carpet will not hold up as well over the long run if I use a standard foam padding (even a higher quality one).  The lady I spoke with at the carpet seller says he is just old school and to get the bonded pad.  I called the manufacturer (Kane) and they said to listen to my installer - he knows best.  My question is - will I be happy with how comfortable the carpet is to walk on and sit on?  I just keep envisioning a really hard flooring.  Any thoughts?

 

I hope to order the carpet tomorrow, but it is on back order and won't be available to ship until 2 weeks from tomorrow.  Waiting really sucks, but then that gives me time to wrap everything else up without rushing.

 

I am also trying to pick out the amps for my Buttkickers.  I posted in the sub/lfe forum, but got no response.  I ended up calling Parts Express since they sell both Crown amps and Buttkickers.  The tech I spoke with recommended the following for two rows of 4 Buttkicker Advance shakers which run at 4 ohms each:

 

  • 2 Crown XLS1000 amps.  
  • Run each row off of an amp.  
  • Run a pair of shakers off of each channel (2 shakers per channel).  
  • Run each pair in series.  
  • He said this would put me at 8 ohms - 215 watts per channel.  
  • I could then adjust the output for each pair.

 

 Any thoughts?  This sounds like enough power, but I am not sure since I have never used them before.



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post #1018 of 1236 Old 06-04-2013, 05:55 PM
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I just ordered my carpet with the felt pad. It *might* be installed next week.. I'll let you know what I think. I suppose that wouldn't be a big deal to change if you had to. I went with it because I wanted the carpet to be perfectly flush with my nosings.

On the Buttkickers.. the 1000w buttkicker amp is good (I hav 2 of them thanks to an old AVS group buy) but you probably want the Behringer EP2000 over the Crowns. You can get the EP2000 at Walmart, of all places... or you can source it from the usual suspects. I hardly ever see anybody recommend the Crowns.

Triple Edit: You may want to distribute these at the candy counter:


'cause with 4000W of buttkicker, somebody's gonna chip a tooth!

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post #1019 of 1236 Old 06-04-2013, 06:00 PM
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I'm actually very glad that you guys have found felt pad. The folks at the big boxes don't even know what it is.

From as acoustics perspective, felt has always been the recommendation. It's absorptive and allows the carpet and pad to work together to absorb down to a reasonable frequency and to a reasonable extent such that floor bounces can be mitigated and without such problematic changes to the frequency response of the sound (when compared to foam pad, which is not absorptive to any meaningful extent).

Does either of you have a brand name or product name for the pad that was quoted?


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Quote:
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I'm actually very glad that you guys have found felt pad. The folks at the big boxes don't even know what it is.

From as acoustics perspective, felt has always been the recommendation. It's absorptive and allows the carpet and pad to work together to absorb down to a reasonable frequency and to a reasonable extent such that floor bounces can be mitigated and without such problematic changes to the frequency response of the sound (when compared to foam pad, which is not absorptive to any meaningful extent).

Does either of you have a brand name or product name for the pad that was quoted?

My quote just says "28oz felt pad"

Tim

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