The Monkey_Man Home Theater Build - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-22-2011, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Finally, I have moved out of apartment living. My fiancée and myself built a new home and moved in early last year. To save cost we left the basement unfinished. Starting shortly after Halloween I started the HT build. I will post some pics soon, as I'm now getting in spots where I will need some feedback. Stay tuned!
Monkey_Man is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-07-2011, 01:52 PM
Senior Member
 
Mr. Goodcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: IA
Posts: 396
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I attached drywall right to mine on both sides. So I don't think you'll have any problems
Mr. Goodcat is offline  
Old 03-12-2011, 07:27 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,125
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 57
For electrical outlet boxes, the approach I used was normal metal boxes attached as usual to the studs at normal depth, and then appropriate depth box extender rings and mud rings. With low voltage I'm using plastic extensions and long screws. For the 3 gang deep box for the Grafik Eye, I just mounted the box further out on the studs.

If I had known about them though, I probably would have used adjustable depth boxes - here's one example, there are probably other makers as well:

http://www.licensedelectrician.com/Store/SmartBox.htm

Edit: yes, it's better to build the stage and riser after drywall, to get the room all sealed up.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
Old 03-19-2011, 12:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mr.Tim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: SC
Posts: 2,216
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Liked: 66
There is no problem screwing drywall to a Microlam the way you described. You can bore a hole through a Microlam, but there are specific guidelines. You have the right idea by avoiding it altogether.

As for boxes, you have several routes. You can do was was mentioned-- get yourself a 4" square box (commonly called a 1900 [nineteen-hundred] box in these parts) paired with a 1" mud ring.

Or, you can get an adjustable depth plastic box. I know a lot of people here have used them; they are available in the bog box stores.

Last, you could use any typical electric box and use a box extender. The extender is installed after the last layer of GWB. It gives a nice flat surface for the devices to compress to:

Mr.Tim is offline  
Old 11-03-2011, 09:34 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
AV Science Sales 5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: A beautiful view of a lake
Posts: 8,373
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 668 Post(s)
Liked: 531
Look at it this way. You sure will appreciate it when it is done. Posts lots of pics and you will get more Hits on your thread. More hits might motivate you more. When it comes time for equipment selection or if you have any other questions, just ask. Your builder did do one thing right. Nice LVL beam in the basement for support of the floor joists. Allows a longer span so that there are fewer columns to have to work around.

Mike Garrett, AV Science Sales Call Me: 585-671-2968
Email Me: Mike@AVScience.com
Brands we sell: http://avscience.com/brands/ 
Call for B-stock projectors
Stewart, Seymour, SE, SI, Falcon, DNP & more.
RBH, Martin Logan, Triad, Atlantic Tech., MK Sound, BG Radia, SVS & Def Tech, Denon, Marantz & Yamaha .
AV Science Sales 5 is offline  
Old 01-28-2012, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Alright let’s start this build over. I erased my super noob build questions. My HT room will be about 15'x19'.

Nothing fancy, I'll let the pictures talk for themselves.

Here is the basement during the home build and pretty much how it looked when I started, oh the options....





Let the framing start. I decided on 24" on center to help with noise transmission. I knew I wasn't going to get fancy with hat channels or whatever they are called. I knew I would insulate the room. I plan on two layers of 5/8" drywall but not 100%.



Here is an outside room shot. At this point I didn't frame a door I wasn't 100% where it was going to go. Since I was screwing the room together, I could easily make changes.... yes screw.... it was a long painful process. After the HT room was screwed together, I bought an air gun for the rest of the basement. All the lights will be removed lateras they serve as temp building lights.




Inside the room looking at the future screen wall



Looking into the room, this is the future door opening.



Just a shot how I tied the wall to the ceiling joist. I'll move the fire alarm later.



Here is the first mess I dealt within the build. Since my basement was barely 8' tall I need all the head room as possible and below these ducts would be the rear riser so head room was important. I also had to move these HVAC ducts as that was the location I had planned to tie the rear wall to the ceiling joist. The next series of pics are the before and after.







Here are the three runs moved. Now I only had one run that I moved next to the LVL beam. I also improved the HVAC because the old runs weren't taped. I was also able to make a new run and run it above the drain pipe with a simple 8" to 8" oval boot.





Alright, back wall is up with stereo rack. Started the ladder work for the waste pipe so I could box around the LVL beam. The freash air vent hanging in the studding will get moved later.

Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 01-28-2012, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Okay I started the wiring. Here is a front wall shot. I used ½ smurf conduit which was a mistake because 12 gauge CL2 wire was a PITA to pull. I had to use lube, lots of it. I ran the romex low to avoid the speaker wires.



right front



left front



Side front



Side wall rear



Rear wall



Rear wall right side. Here is one bummer with my lay out was the pole. No biggie, it in the rear seats will be to the left and one to the right for the rear seating. Laying the HT room out this way allowed me to build a family next to the HT room.



Here is the first shot of the door. I went with a pocket so a door wouldn't swing into the HT room or the family/rec room. Plus it was a compromise with the wife. She wanted a curtain as a wall to separate the HT room and family room, I was like hell no! This pocket door will support a 300 pound door slab. More on that later.



Rear back side wall



Full front shot



Full rear wall shot, if you're wondering why I went to 16" on center for the rear wall, it was because I wanted to line up the studs with the joists so I had clear runs if i decided to do a cold air return. I wanted to give myself options in the future. If you notice I have an odd stud in the mix is because I needed a 8' drywall sheet to end on a stud. Im trying to avoid butt joints when I get to the drywall.

Ceiling shot. I have two PJ locations for the front and rear of the LVL in case there is an issue with mounting the PJ behind the LVL beam.



Another shot of the LVL beam and framing



Here is the nerve center. I was going to make the rack accessible from the HT room then I changed my mind when I figured out the rear surround would be located in the rack given the room la out. Plus I wanted to move the equipment out of the room because of lights and noise. I wanted to also isolate the mech room noise out of the HT room. So the HT gear is now accessible from the mech room. I'll use a IR repeater to control the equiptment.



Another rack shot



Okay here is a shot of the Johnson pocket door. It's a 36"X80" assembly and like I mentioned, it can hold a 300 pound 1-3/4" door slab.






Shot of the front back PJ mount location.



Framed around the rear HVAC duct and set up some furring strips for the water and gas pipe. This is in the rear of the room behind the LVL beam.



Another joist shot. I ran the first HT room duct using flexi ducting and a speed boot



A shot of a plug. I'm using adjustable boxes for the multi-layers of drywall.



Front plug shot. This is a combo gang for a plug a subwoofer drop. I have one in each corner of the font stage.



Added some bracing for the future ceiling soffit. Also shows the second room duct.



A shot of the rear of HT room on the outside of the room.

Okay I have to run for the night, many more pics to come.
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 01-29-2012, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28


Another outside room shot



Side speaker run



A shot of the speed boot. I opted not to build a box around the boot for sound isolation. Project is majorly behind and I’m pushing forward



I opted to use red head 1/2" sleeved concrete anchors at each end of the pocket door. Since I was going to have a heavy door, I wanted to make sure the base was nice and secure.



Another shot of the framing around the water and gas line. This is the back of the room behind the LVL beam.



Just a quick shot of the small family/rec room that will be next to the theater room. This room I used an air gun and man that was a lot faster than screwing the framing together.





Shot of the equipment rack from the mech room.



This is a rear wall shot. The reason for the bump in was to make room for a bathroom behind the theater room.



This is a drop for a plug, center channel, and run for the IR extender.




Let the insulation begin. I really regret not taking down the wall blanket. I hate how it pushes the framing so far off the wall. Not to mention the gap below. So I filled the gap with insulation foam board around the room. The builder recommended to me just to leave it when I built, mistake on many levels.






I then covered the insulation foam board with left over wall insulation I removed from another side of the basement. The real reason I did this was to fill the void between the bottom wall and the framing. I didn't want the cat or other critter venturing behind there or air movement.



A little protection for the speaker wires when time to dry wall. I don't think Ill ever get that 12 gauge speaker wire out of the 1/2" smurf conduit. Note to self, I should have used 3/4" smurf conduit. All well, I have fancy speaker wire holders now




Okay now to throw up the insulation in the framing. I opted to staple the craft paper to the face of the stud to help isolate the drywall form the stud. This method also doesn't compress the insulation and doesn’t create a fire channel. You can't glue the drywall to the stud, but I don't care as I was going to screw it like a mad man... I also cut slits on the paper per my fathers advice since I had a double vapor barrier going on around the poured walls.



Shot of the wiring for the switch. I made provisions in case I want to use a Lutron GE in the future, extra deep gang. I'll have a dimmer for the a ceiling tray light (rope?), soffit lights, and front are rear stage/riser lighitng...rope?!?!



Okay room is insulated. I went a little nutty with the ceiling and used R30. That job SUCKED as insulation rains on you.

















The last three shots are in the mech room looking at the stereo rack. The two orange lines run to the two PJ location.



PJ location #1 behind the LVL beam where I hope it works.



Shot of the power and A/V gang (both adjustable), you can see the orange conduit here for the HDMI and other a/v cables



This is my back up PJ location #2 in front of the LVL beam.

For what's its worth I have dedicated power runs for the PJ, stereo rack, lighting, and room plugs.

These pic's pretty much catch me up where I'm at with the build. I need to clean up for the drywall. I would love to say that this took me a weekend but this is 1.5 years of moving like a turtle. Perhaps you all can keep me moving. I want this funtional before summer!!!
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 01-29-2012, 11:39 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
AV Science Sales 5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: A beautiful view of a lake
Posts: 8,373
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 668 Post(s)
Liked: 531
You should not have double layer of vapor barrier. More likely to trap moisture.

Mike Garrett, AV Science Sales Call Me: 585-671-2968
Email Me: Mike@AVScience.com
Brands we sell: http://avscience.com/brands/ 
Call for B-stock projectors
Stewart, Seymour, SE, SI, Falcon, DNP & more.
RBH, Martin Logan, Triad, Atlantic Tech., MK Sound, BG Radia, SVS & Def Tech, Denon, Marantz & Yamaha .
AV Science Sales 5 is offline  
Old 01-29-2012, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
I have cut vents on the craft paper boarding the poured walls, that's not pictured here. Plus I'm lucky to have a very dry basement with the help of a radon system.
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 01-30-2012, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Alright Mike, you got in my head. I did a ton of reading about vapor barriers and there is a lot of conflicting info out there for basement insulation. One school of thought even says that painted drywall is a vapor barrier. To free my OCD mind I just removed the craft paper off the 2 walls bordering the poured concrete walls. mind eased



Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 01-30-2012, 08:24 PM
AVS Special Member
 
J_P_A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: L.A. - Lower Alabama
Posts: 4,172
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked: 267
Subscribed. I like threads with a near 1:1 ratio of pictures to words

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
J_P_A is offline  
Old 01-30-2012, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Wait until I start the drywall and photograph and post every screw. It will be epic!
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 01-30-2012, 11:48 PM
Senior Member
 
brausch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cyclone State
Posts: 484
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Looking good...I'll bet its pretty quiet in there right now. How big is your space?
brausch is offline  
Old 01-31-2012, 04:42 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Its really dead in the room right now. The room size is 15'x19'.
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 02-07-2012, 10:16 AM
Member
 
Atren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 70
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I get itchy just looking at the pink stuff!
Atren is offline  
Old 02-07-2012, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
First load of 5/8" drywall arrived. Note to self, pay for delivery and for someone else to haul it down the steps next time. Im still not sure about two layers. That's like 1400 pounds on the ceiling joists.

So for a single layer of 5/8" drywall, should I use 1 5/8 " drywall screws or 1¼" screws into wood studs? What would be the recommended screw lengths for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall and green glue? Again, Im attaching to wood studs no furring strips or resilient channels.

I ask because i read conflicting info on the net.
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 02-12-2012, 05:15 PM
AVS Special Member
 
nickbuol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Marion, Iowa
Posts: 1,846
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Liked: 222
You may be limited (or guided) by the code in your area. For me, in Iowa, the code basically states that the screw be a course drywall screw that penetrates 5/8" inch into the wood stud. So for 5/8" single layer, that is 1 1/4" drywall screws. For two 5/8" layers plus GG (which I was told comes to about 1/8") you are at 1 3/8" of material, and thus need at least a 2" drywall screw for the outside layer.


I am trying to figure out how long screws need to be going into hat channel, but like you said, that doesn't pertain to your needs.

EDIT: Code for here for going into metal is 3/8" penetration vs. the 5/8" for wood. Hat Channel is 7/8" so 1" for first layer, and 1 5/8" for second layer.
nickbuol is offline  
Old 02-13-2012, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Thanks, excellent info. I ended up using 1 5/8 screws. I kinda now wished i would have used a hat channel approach. Butt joints sharing one stud is tight for my skills with the senco drywall screw gun. I sure hope im doing my butt joints correct for the mudding process. After all this work, a wavy wall would be deflating.
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 08-04-2012, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Im back. My gull balder went out in Feb so I had to get surgery. I was busting ass before the surgey and hurt myself hanging drywall by myself. I damaged a major nerve in my foot. Took four months to heel enough to get back to work. Sucked big time and countless vists to the podiatris for shots. Luckily I didn't need more surgery. I'm now symptom free sice fathers day. Felt like I was getting electrocuted in my heel. I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy.

Good news is the drywall is up and I'm building the lighting soffit. I decided to use 50w 3" halogen pot lights. Now what I cannot decide is how many is enough. My digital Lutron dimmer is rated at 1000 watts. My room is about 15x19. I guess I would rather over light than under light. I was thinking 6 pots on each side and 4 over the front stage. Any one have experience with these? Is this enough? Too much?
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 08-11-2012, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Here are some new shots. The drywall is completed so I'm building a lighting soffit. Soffit will only contain 3" halogen can lights like the Bacon Race Theater build and rope lighting hidden in crown, no HVAC.








In the pic above I still need to build the side rear lighting soffit, I won't be building a rear wall light soffit.



Here is my major question and I'm looking for opinions. The soffit will be skinned with 5/8" drywall next. I'll mount the can right on the drywall. Instructions say to keep insulation at least 3" away from the can. Is it even safe to fill the soffit with insulation at all, even if I keep it at least 3" away from the can? I read somewhere with lighting like this, it's a code violation to have insulation in the same area, even if it's 3" away. However, I'm worried if I don't insulate the soffit it will conduct noise from above. Is there a fire danger here or a situation to overhead the lighting? I built the soffit shallow to accommodate this particular can light to save head room.
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 08-11-2012, 03:54 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,492
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 574 Post(s)
Liked: 735
On those Utilitech GU10 bulb can lights from Lowe's (the ones we used in the Bacon Race) I've experimented with both 50w and 35 watt bulbs and neither bulb after left on for hours will make the can so hot that you can't hold the fixture in your hands, Bulb is hot yes, The part up in the ceiling is nice and warm, not hot. So put insulation up there, just keep the recommended clearance.

Just a FYI if you are height restricted they also make a similar version with the same bulbs but in a 4 inch can with the junction box off to the side. even shorter than the light you pictured and from what I can tell a tad cooler. The junction box is also bigger which makes for easier wiring. Twice as much and doesn't come with a bulb.

IMG_8394.jpg
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
Old 08-11-2012, 10:51 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Thanks Big! This really puts my mind at ease. I have no experience with these lights, in fact I'm also a complete newb with construction. This is my first crack at buiding a room and I'm learning. I just might check out the 4" cans you mentioned.
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 08-12-2012, 06:06 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,492
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 574 Post(s)
Liked: 735
I also like to buy the right size hole saw to make quick work of the installation. If I recall the Utilitech brand lights are a slightly odd size and the required hole saw is not a normally stocked size in the stores but I had no problem getting one online. My local Lowe's didn't stock enough of the 4 inch model so I order from their website. The four inch light requires a 3 7/8 hole saw. Be sure to loop in enough romex to get the job done. Best way is to cut all your holes and run the romex looping down out of every hole 16 or so inches, Long enough and you won't have to stand on a ladder to wire each light. Buy a bag of the Red wing nuts, forget the ones that come with lights. You wire the light and shove up into the hole. You can paint the trims with black spray paint intended for high heat applications without issue.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
Old 09-12-2012, 09:53 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Big, with these cans, how far off the wall do you recommend? Looking for the wall wash look but i don't want to go too close. I'm thinking 12",less?
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 09-29-2012, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Tested the lights before buttoning up the soffit. I'll then build a channel (mdf) for the up LED lighting and trim remaining drywall. I changed how I was going to do this a few times. I ended up going with 13 50 watt halogen 3" cans to keep the price down over the 4" cans. Big was right, wiring was a pain (especially with 12 gauge romex) but not horrible after the learning curve. It took about 10 to 15 min to wire per can. I'm going to insulate the soffit with Roxul Safe and Quite since it's much more fire resistant than the pink stuff making sure to keep a 3" clearance from the cans. Once the soffit is done, it's time to mud....

Front


Side


Side
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
I'm starting to build the tray around the soffit for the LED up lighting. I really could use some help with choosing a LED kit. There seems to be 100's of websites for strip LED lighting. I did some searching here and really didn't find a lot of detailed info. Perhaps someone can give me some advice. 1. Where to purchase a good RGB LED strip. 2. What are all the pieces I need for this set up. I'm not looking for a super bright setup, just a dimmable color changing kit at roughly 44 feet long. I'm hoping to hide the components that power the LEDs in the tray which will be about 3" to 4" deep. Any help is appreciated.
Monkey_Man is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 05:52 PM
AVS Special Member
 
J_P_A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: L.A. - Lower Alabama
Posts: 4,172
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked: 267
Take a look at the last few posts of "The Deadline Has Been Set Theater Build". I think it's post 138. Aaustin posted links to what he used.

Sorry for no links, it's tough to do on an iPad.
Monkey_Man likes this.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
J_P_A is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 07:42 PM
AVS Special Member
 
aaustin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 1,226
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 32
Here you go!

RGB LED strips (30/meter):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-30Leds-M-RGB-5050-Waterproof-SMD-LED-Lights-Flexible-Strip-/160688397549?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item2569c65ced

I had to buy two strips for a total of 10 meters. They can be cut every few inches.

A remote and controller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/44-Key-IR-Remote-Control-Controller-For-5050-RGB-LED-Light-Strip-two-outputs-/160774070507?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item256ee1a0eb

I like this one since it has two outputs which can make installing multiple strands easier if you need to.

A power supply:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-AC-Power-Supply-Adapter-DC-12-Volt-6-Amp-12V-6A-/280869637229?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item4165228c6d

Each 5 meter length requires 3 amps of current. Since I ended up using about 8 meters, I bought a 6 amp power supply like the one that I linked to.
Monkey_Man and Swervepf like this.

The Austin Home Theater:
A DIY high school project (now complete and being enjoyed everyday)

aaustin is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Thanks for the links. Wow, the price of LEDs linked are ridiculously cheap. Is it possible to run two 5 meter runs together off one power supply as long as the power supply can handle the load? Or do you have to run 1 power supply per 5 meter run?
Monkey_Man is offline  
 
Thread Tools


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off