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post #91 of 587 Old 03-21-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post
but the halogen bulbs that come with them put off a lot of heat. I need to replace the bulbs in mine with something that doesn't get as hot and that is dimmable.


Someone needs to take one for the team and test a high priced dimmable GU10 LED bulb:

http://www.ledliquidatorsinc.com/GU1...FQXu7QodVC41yw
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post #92 of 587 Old 03-21-2011, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jesto View Post
Brad - do you think the lights around the perimeter and a rope light in the soffit would be enough to light your theater?

or do you think the ceiling cans are necessary as well?
Pretty sure the soffit lights would be enough (rope light adds almost nothing to room lighting on its own really) - at least based on what I see in my room - here's the room with just the soffit lights on full (no flash):





Edit: re: the LED bulbs - yow, at $40 a pop, 14 fixtures, that would be $560 in bulbs - that's enough for a new Oppo or receiver or...
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post #93 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 02:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Someone needs to take one for the team and test a high priced dimmable GU10 LED bulb:

http://www.ledliquidatorsinc.com/GU1...FQXu7QodVC41yw


I've been tempted to try something like that. If you buy 10 or more, they are $33.90 each which is pretty high, but I'm not quite ready for them yet in my build. I am hoping that as people are forced to find an alternative for their incandescent bulbs as the end of the year approaches the price will continue to drop.

I wouldn't mind investing the money if I knew they would last at least 10 -15 years, but my early CFLs were guaranteed for something like 5 years and only lasted a few months, so that means nothing to me. When I tried to turn in a claim they asked me for the original receipt. Sorry, I don't keep receipts for light bulbs.

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post #94 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Someone needs to take one for the team and test a high priced dimmable GU10 LED bulb:

http://www.ledliquidatorsinc.com/GU1...FQXu7QodVC41yw

I hear you. I saw those posted somewhere else and thought reallyhard about them...then I remembered that I'd nead 17 for the theater and got sticker shock!

Oh well, when I get the dimmers installed and the automation working, maybe...

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post #95 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm game for trying the LEDs - the question is will that allow us to stuff more insulation in the soffit? I think it would probably be OK - but the concern would hten be if someone (me) stuck a halogen in there by mistake at a later date

I think the safest approach is to go with one of the low rise IC cans - not sure if that would give enough room for the "dead vents" though
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post #96 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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what about using something like this


http://www.elementalled.com/dimmable...uck-light.html

it also comes in a 5 pack
http://www.elementalled.com/5-piece-...-puck-kit.html

these could be put under the soffit so leave plenty of room, and i think 5 on either side would work for the room - maybe 3-pack or another 5 pack for the stage lights?

Big question is - would they work with a Grafik Eye? and could they be hard wired?

anyone have experience with LED pucks? could swear I saw someone using them somewhere on here

it's an expensive option - but i think it would look pretty cool
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post #97 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 09:53 AM
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Found this interesting discussion on large recessed LED lights and the problem with dimming:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load...055226473.html
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post #98 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jesto View Post

Big question is - would they work with a Grafik Eye? and could they be hard wired?

Basically what you are looking at are intended as under cabinet lights. That opens up the playing field to a whole host of Puck Light alternatives. As for the GE a lot of these can't be dimmed so you would need to take that into consideration. As for hardwiring here is my PERSONAL take, you will be building your soffits inside a totally sealed and constructed room so that instead of thinking about building codes and what is allowed on ceilings and walls, you need to think about installed cabinets and what is permitted with cabinet lighting.

Your by-the-book electrician will have a minor stroke and want to install an electrical box for each light. After the room is drywalled you may need to lock the door and tell him the room is done and not invite him back until you have your grand opening event.
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post #99 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 10:19 AM
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Those pucks are 12v (low voltage). The Grafik eye typically dims 120v (line voltage). There may be an adapter, I'd ask in the GE thread.
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post #100 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 02:33 PM
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They have these In Contact rated Air Tight cans at Lowe's $20.



They take an assortment of Par20/R20 Halogen, Incandescent and LED regular base bulbs. A variety of trims are available including gimbal eyeball to aim at the screen.

They are 5 1/2 inches tall and 6 inches wide. Nice square box that we can wrap with that duct wrap to seal and quiet.

So, in the Section of soffit with just the acoustically transparent duct (Fabric on a Slinky) we surround with insulation creating the dead vent treatment, If we have to pass by a light we go up and over and stuff as much insulation as possible. around both the duct and light.







We can take an inch off the width if we use different materials, I drew it with metal 2x3 framing.
It is standard lighting which will make the electrician happy.
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post #101 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Awesome! - lets make a list of all the stuff we need at Lowe's and I can make a run this weekend - I have a 10% coupon i've been itching to use
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post #102 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm so happy I got the the first Mr. Big back of the napkin (graph paper) diagram
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post #103 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 03:19 PM
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To be correct that would also be the first Post Licensing napkin! It's now more valuable.

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post #104 of 587 Old 03-22-2011, 03:35 PM
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Awesome! - lets make a list of all the stuff we need at Lowe's and I can make a run this weekend - I have a 10% coupon I've been itching to use

Why don't we focus on getting the room ready to drywall!

They do offer a price break on those cans if you buy 12 or more. You will need to pick out the trim design you like.

A couple of missing details include identifying the vent covers to use and step lights. I suspect that we will need to make a custom vent boot for the soffit. I also confirmed today that Lowe's stocks some 5/8 plywood for the first ceiling layer in the projector location. Need to check the exact channel locations in that area (once up) so that I can cut a piece to fit.
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post #105 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 06:52 AM
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Quote:


To be correct that would also be the first Post Licensing napkin! It's now more valuable.

Hey! I see MY screen wall back-of-napkin in that pile! It's upside down. And you guys wonder why it's taking me so long.

I call shenanigans!

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post #106 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 07:29 AM
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Hi Jeff, just a reminder that 6" acoustically transparent flex duct has a O.D of about 9". The build looks great. Hope to talk to you soon.
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post #107 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 07:37 AM
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Hi Jeff, just a reminder that 6" acoustically transparent flex duct has a O.D of about 9". The build looks great. Hope to talk to you soon.

Jesto bought some 6 inch round acoustically transparent duct lining from Ted White and company. To visualize think of it as fabric on a wire slinky. Just the center core of a flex duct. You surround it with insulation and then place in a sealed box and you have a dead vent/duct muffler. We will be transforming sections of the soffit into duct mufflers.
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post #108 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking about using the narrow / commercial type diffusers as vent covers - haven't sourced those yet,

and for step lights i was thinking something like this (but not green)


available here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_1329wt_825
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post #109 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 09:30 AM
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My take is to avoid the hassle of having to use an additional 12v transformer.

Step lights are really only needed when you have guests over and they aren't familiar with the step up to the riser. I tend to like ones that only shine down and not potentially at the screen. Paint some color to make them disappear.

Something like: This one can be dimmed.

http://www.prolighting.com/noname.html

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post #110 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 09:31 AM
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I figured that I missed something... I did not realize that you where using duct liner. Nice process by the way!
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post #111 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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OK - i get it - no LED lights - so much for being green
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post #112 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 11:52 AM
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Actually I've modified my personal 120v pin bulb Halogen step lights to use a 120v LED light source. I got tired of the halogens always burning out and they ran very hot. The light I linked uses a screw in 25 watt bulb,

LED on the right.

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post #113 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Step lights are really only needed when you have guests over and they aren't familiar with the step up to the riser.

I didn't put any in in my build, I guess I didn't see them as essential. Can always keep low lighting on or rope while people are getting seated. Then I'll strap them into their seats so they don't get tempted to walk around in the dark. Or maybe I'll have guests sign a LDW before I turn off the lights.
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post #114 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 12:26 PM
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Eh, forget the waiver. Big is licensed and insured now, right? Just hand out his address with the popcorn.

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #115 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:11 PM
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Jesto, I am doing the same thing with the basement ceiling/underside of upstairs floor. I was just planning on doing one layer of 5/8" drywall greenglue and stuck directly to bottom of the subfloor. Do you think I need the extra layer of drywall and did you do greenglue between each layer or only between the drywall layers?

Do the whisper clips have to be installed on the walls or can they go on ceiling only? How hard is it to slide the hat channel into the clips when it's attached to a big heavy piece of drywall?

My perpetual home theater build - Omaha Theater #5
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post #116 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Hey! I see MY screen wall back-of-napkin in that pile! It's upside down. And you guys wonder why it's taking me so long.

I call shenanigans!

Whacha tawkin' 'bout Willis?



You got a plan from the Master quite a long time ago. Even YOU should be able to follow under the tuttilage of Biggy!

Ya got no excuse!

Follow my build here: Harvest Ridge Theater
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post #117 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

How hard is it to slide the hat channel into the clips when it's attached to a big heavy piece of drywall?

I'm trying to imagine a scenario when you would attach the hat channel to the drywall first.
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post #118 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:16 PM
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I hope it's OK that I chime in...

Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Jesto, I am doing the same thing with the basement ceiling/underside of upstairs floor. I was just planning on doing one layer of 5/8" drywall greenglue and stuck directly to bottom of the subfloor. Do you think I need the extra layer of drywall and did you do greenglue between each layer or only between the drywall layers?

The added mass layer just helps more. More mass and more damping. Especially true for foorfall noise from a hard floor above. Most go with double layers since the joist cavity is only open just this one time. Damping compound is applied to all layers. You want damping compound on that subfloor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Do the whisper clips have to be installed on the walls or can they go on ceiling only? How hard is it to slide the hat channel into the clips when it's attached to a big heavy piece of drywall?

Depends on what you're after. You can decouple the walls with framing (as compared to clips) but if you want equal impedence from all surfaces, then all surfaces would be decoupled in the same fashion with the same amount of damped mass.

The clips aree attached to the framing. Then the channel is snapped into the clips. Then the drywall is attached to the channels.

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post #119 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:21 PM
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Eh, forget the waiver. Big is licensed and insured now, right? Just hand out his address with the popcorn.

For the record I would never suggest going without some way of visually alerting guests to a change in surface levels in your home. Particularly in areas where you wouldn't normally expect them.
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post #120 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Jesto, I am doing the same thing with the basement ceiling/underside of upstairs floor. I was just planning on doing one layer of 5/8" drywall greenglue and stuck directly to bottom of the subfloor. Do you think I need the extra layer of drywall and did you do greenglue between each layer or only between the drywall layers?

Do the whisper clips have to be installed on the walls or can they go on ceiling only? How hard is it to slide the hat channel into the clips when it's attached to a big heavy piece of drywall?

Neb - we did two layers and the layout went like this - Subfloor / green glue / drywall / green glue / drywall

I'm not sure if we "needed" the extra layer of drywall, but it definitely wont hurt and i really only plan on doing this once - the house is loud - so i figured better be safe then sorry

for the hat channels - we're doing them all around - there's a different kind of whisperclip without hte backing that we're using for the side-walls - but that's because the walls are already decoupled (2 foundation, 1 double stud, one staggered stud). Once again - we're going pretty agressive here, and from what i understand this is the best way to a) isolate and b) maintain consistency on all the walls

the hatchannels are SUPER easy to install on the clips - but of course, you dont add the drywall to the channeluntil after the clips and channel are installed

edit: basically what ted said (just saw he replied) - he's really the expert
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