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post #121 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 12:29 PM
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Whacha tawkin' 'bout Willis?

Yeah, I'm callin' Shenanigans. With a capital "S." I think Big gave me upside down plans on purpose so that he could finish first. Took me MONTHS figure out why the stage should go on the ceiling. And, believe you me, it was no easy task to glue 2,500pds of sand to the ceiling!

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post #122 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Yeah, I'm callin' Shenanigans. With a capital "S." I think Big gave me upside down plans on purpose so that he could finish first. Took me MONTHS figure out why the stage should go on the ceiling. And, believe you me, it was no easy task to glue 2,500pds of sand to the ceiling!

LOL. I did it one grain at a time, and it didn't cost me a dime...

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post #123 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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oh - one more thing about the clips - we've been using laser levels instead chalk lines - of course - you have to make sure the laser is level before you install the clips - but that's a different story
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post #124 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

For the record I would never suggest going without some way of visually alerting guests to a change in surface levels in your home. Particularly in areas where you wouldn't normally expect them.

I don't want to clog up the thread but I owe an apology to Big here...my attempt at funny wasn't well received and I totally understand (after all, I work in the insurance industry). My comment was completely in jest and I didn't mean to suggest that Big/anyone else involved here would ever allow that. (Quite the contrary, actually. I have a ton of respect for Big's building skills and his great contributions to the forum.)

Ok, I'll go back to watching quietly now so you guys can go back to building...you're flying along and it looks great!

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post #125 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:03 PM
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Thanks that makes sense. That makes me want to ask one more question though -

for the first layer of drywall that you greenglued directly to the bottom of the subfloor, did you screw that in with drywall screws, then did you greenglue the next layer and screw that to the bottom of the first? And if so, how many screws and what size?

Seems like a lot of screws into the subfloor, depending on what room is above it you don't want the sharp tips of screws going through carpet pad in a living room.

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post #126 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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yes - screw both layers in - first layer we used 1.5" screws (maybe 1.25" don't really remember), for the second we tried 1 5/8" but it wasnt enough so we went with 2"
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post #127 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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oh - we also staggered the seams on the drywall - my original plan was to sandwich the drywall first then screw both layers in at the same time - but we decided against it in order to stagger the seams appropriately (also much easier to lift up over your head)
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post #128 of 587 Old 03-23-2011, 01:41 PM
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Much better to compress the glue also

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post #129 of 587 Old 03-28-2011, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Boy did we get a lot done.

here's the synoposis
  • Installed all the clips on the ceiling
  • installed hat channel throughout the entire room (except two lines under the bulkhead)
  • figured out lighting and bought the cans (basically copying brad - 3 main zones, 1) 4 gimble stage lights, 2) 8 lights in soffit, 3) 3 rears or track in back under bulkhead) accent lights will be 4) soffit tray, 5) stage, and 6) riser
  • ran the cat6 to the closet to run up to the front door for a security cam
  • insulated the whole ceiling (including a very painful first joist which we stuffed with pink stuff and roxul)
  • patched up insulation throughout the room - including the new closed off window
  • caulked and insulated around the closed up window
  • ran conduit - 2x2" for the A/V in the room and 1x2" conduit for the projector
  • FINISHED THE WIRING! - yay- big might disagree, but basically we put wiring in place for all the lights so we don't have to run it through the soffit
  • The Rack! - it's gonna be awesome - Mr. Big figured out a very very elegant solution to making the rack look just right in the back of the room
  • Wired everything into the sub-panel - but my electrician friend refuses to power the panel until he checks our work

Ok - now pictures

Insulated Ceiling


Nasty front joist- had to stuff pinkstuff in and around a duct, and capped off the end with a bunch of roxul - i'm still itching from the unfaced pink stuff


Mr. Big doing some damage with a staple gun (actually just securing hte insulation in the joist)


two conduit lines from the equipment closet to where the soffit will eventually go. you can also see the rear bulkhead here which we stuffed about 3 layers of insulation in - this bulkhead also ended up using a lot more clips than anticipated - need 12 more clips to finish the channel


conduit lines from the equipment rack into the room


Conduit line to the projector location

Need to update with pics of the whole room channeled - looks amazing

Also need to add a pic of Mr. Big's beautiful work on the rack

A couple of things of note:
- underestimated clips and channel needed because of that rear bulkhead - basically need two more rows for that, as well as a little channel for the corner where the rack is.

Luckily Mr. Big found channel at his local Home Depot and John and Ted are super fast at shipping!

- looks like we're gonna be a little short on drywall - my previous post mentioned just how much supply we needed to dampen the floor above - we'll need about 12 more sheets b/c of all the waste cutting those - just gonna have the drywallers bring it with them
- finally - used up a lot more insulation than anticipated stuffing large cavities like the bulkhead

whew- this is getting expensive in terms of overages - oh well - it will be awesome and quiet when its done

so.... 2 more rows of channel when the clips come and then DRYWALL!

very happy with the progress so far, and once again, couldn't have done any of this without the help of the illustrious Mr. Big
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post #130 of 587 Old 03-28-2011, 04:21 PM
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Great progress! Interesting to see what Big came up with for the rack - I'm still having second thoughts on how I'm going about my rack location.
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post #131 of 587 Old 03-28-2011, 05:23 PM
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What height ceiling in there? I see Big is banging his head on the cieling, I think he is about 8'6" so you must have 9' ceilings?

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post #132 of 587 Old 03-28-2011, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Lol - he's standing on a stack of drywall - ceilings are about 8'
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post #133 of 587 Old 03-28-2011, 08:12 PM
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Must be the forced perspective of the photo but it looks like he is a giant of a man.


What are you guys using the acetone for?

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post #134 of 587 Old 03-28-2011, 09:41 PM
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What are you guys using the acetone for?

Cleaning the GG off your hands/tools and getting high. Soap and water really doesn't cut it. I'm sure there are other solvents that work just fine, I just have always had a can of Acetone handy for quick cleanup up of just about anything. You can also get paint off of GOM with it and it won't stain or leave an odor.
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post #135 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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one other thing i forgot to mention. In order to install the channels we had to add extra 2x4 studs in the corners. This allowed us enough room to keep the channels from butting into each other or the perpendicular wall
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post #136 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 07:55 AM
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Question for you about the hat channel and clips, when I frame out the walls they will be 24" oc so I will have a clip on each stud, but my ceiling is 16" oc, I am sure the same as yours. Did you put a clip on each one, which would be overkill, or did you skip some?

Can you go every other one which would be 32" in between instead of 24"?

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post #137 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Question for you about the hat channel and clips, when I frame out the walls they will be 24" oc so I will have a clip on each stud, but my ceiling is 16" oc, I am sure the same as yours. Did you put a clip on each one, which would be overkill, or did you skip some?

Can you go every other one which would be 32" in between instead of 24"?

Neb,

Im not really an expert here - I would definitely recommend you check out the Sound Proofing Company website http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/

There's lots of good data there, and installation instructions as well - here's the instruction page for the clips
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/..._instructions/

Also - here's a good video that shows how to do it (not to sure about the 3" from the bottom though - we used 6")
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vq-t-YTSn_8

Here's another video (different clips though)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf5syq09qa0

Basically, my understanding is that the amount of clips depends on 1) how many layers of drywall, 2) whether or not you need to support a soffit

Also, you don't need to install clips on every stud or joist - you cover the two ends of the wall and then install the clips in an angled pattern but no more than 4 ft apart (it looks like diagonal lines when they are installed)

for 16" OC joists we installed them every three joists and then staggered each layer - so the first layer was 1) clip on corner, 2) then count 3 joists and install, 3) repeat until we hit the opposite corner and install a clip there

for the second layer it was 1) clip on corner 2) count 2 joists over, 3) count 3 joists over and 3) repeat every 3 until we hit the opposite corner and install a clip there

next layer we counted 1 joist over after the corner

layer after that - it was back to 3 joists after the corner

hope this helps - but really talk to the soundproofing guys - they're a huge help
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post #138 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 08:45 AM
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The SIMs for the clips show different patterns, depending on 16" or 24" stud spacing. Given that the clips are spaced every 48", all of the clips don't fall on the same stud,

Side note: Unlike the video, you would not use drywall screws to attach clips. They have low shear strength. Use deck screws instead. Also, that pattern shown will not hold 4 layers of 5/8" drywall. The channel is the limiting factor that defines this.

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post #139 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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See - Ted's the expert

we actually followed this advice and used deck screws to attach the clips to the studs - they also have the star bit pattern - so the drill could grab them and drive them home better
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post #140 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 09:09 AM
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All screws should have a star head.... just sayin...
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post #141 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 11:35 AM
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Robertson (square) is the head of choice up here in Canada. I find them so much better.
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post #142 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 11:58 AM
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I've recently found that 99% Isopropyl Alcohol also does a mean job with Green Glue... while wet or tacky. Once dried, alcohol will soften it, while acetone will melt it away. Depending on the surface to be cleaned you might try the strong alcohol

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post #143 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
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Depending on the surface to be cleaned you might try the strong alcohol

Truer words have never been spoken


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Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #144 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 01:23 PM
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Truer words have never been spoken

+1

bwahahahaha!!!!!

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #145 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesto View Post

Lol - he's standing on a stack of drywall - ceilings are about 8'

Here's a dumb question for all of you out there, how do you work around a stack of drywall on the floor? (especially when you need to do the ceiling above the stack). Obviously this would be easier for two people to do, but how about when you are working by yourself?
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post #146 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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the stack actually helps - didntt need a ladder for the insulation or clip installation - installing the drywall itself might be a challenge - but we're contracting that out
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post #147 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 01:54 PM
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Here's a dumb question for all of you out there, how do you work around a stack of drywall on the floor? (especially when you need to do the ceiling above the stack). Obviously this would be easier for two people to do, but how about when you are working by yourself?

I did my basement myself (with a lift) and the secret is to stack the drywall on edge leaning against one wall. Then you use a drywall lift to do the ceiling, next hang all the walls leaving the wall with the stack for last then move the minimum number of sheets one last time. I wasn't there when Jesto's contractor brought the drywall from the garage to the basement. But I have to assume they are planning to hang the ceiling using a 3 worker method using two lifters and one with a screw gun.

Google search:

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post #148 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jesto View Post

one other thing i forgot to mention. In order to install the channels we had to add extra 2x4 studs in the corners. This allowed us enough room to keep the channels from butting into each other or the perpendicular wall

Found a good picture of this, also check out Jesto's new laser level shining a line for the bottom row of clips on the wall.



Another picture of a clipped and channeled room:

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post #149 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Another picture of a clipped and channeled room:

Don't forget insulated (well at least 1/2 the walls and the ceiling)
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post #150 of 587 Old 03-29-2011, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I did my basement myself (with a lift) and the secret is to stack the drywall on edge leaning against one wall. Then you use a drywall lift to do the ceiling, next hang all the walls leaving the wall with the stack for last then move the minimum number of sheets one last time. I wasn't there when Jesto's contractor brought the drywall from the garage to the basement. But I have to assume they are planning to hang the ceiling using a 3 worker method using two lifters and one with a screw gun.

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Thanks. That sounds like a great strategy.
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