My Mahogany / Invisible Speaker build - Page 15 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
Bryan - can you post a link or a final HT pict?

I want to show my brother in law over Christmas holiday when he visits.
Sorry for the slow response... We're on the road now and I'm not sure how to easily post links with this iPad... However, there are some pictures back on post #29 (first page) -- that's all I have for now.

Regardless.... Merry Christmas!!
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:22 AM
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Merry Christmas Bryan!
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Old 02-01-2015, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick (but minor) update... Now that I'm mostly brewing my own beers, I needed to figure out what to do for the tap faucet handles. For commercial beers, it's great: Virtually any tap handle you'd want is available for <$20 online. But what to do for homebrews?


I tried out the "chalkboard" handles that are available, but found that some people tend to grab the handle from the top and inadvertently smear the chalk, which is easy to do.


So, I purchased some hardware and grabbed a piece of the leftover Mahogany:



After ripping 4 pieces each 2" wide, I marked the center of both ends and started a hole with an awl (for the lathe centers):



I used a tapering jig on the saw to remove the bulk of the waste material:



And eased most of the edges with a 1/4" roundover bit:



Then over to the lathe, where I turned the bottom portion of each handle to get it close:



A drill bit in the lathe bored out the hole for the threaded bolt:



Then finally a bunch of sanding (mostly by hand), some Danish oil for a finish, and then some copper nameplates finished them off:



To get the copper, I took some scrap pieces of the red (thick wall) 1/2" copper pipe, cut them into 3" long sections, and used snips to cut them lengthwise from one end to the other. After flattening the sheet out with a hammer and anvil, I trimmed them to a very rough shape and then used some lettering punches to imprint the names:



My plan is to just make as many of the copper plates as I need, and making new ones (for new beers) is pretty cheap and easy. As is replacing them with something more refined if I get tired of the "hand beaten" look...


I hope everyone is in a great spot to enjoy the game, and for Mike's sake, let's all pretend we're rooting for his Pats!!!
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:05 PM
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OK, now I feel bad....like nothing more than loosely bound DNA devoid of any talent or redeeming value.

Not only is the end result stunning, you were able to accomplish such perfection with WWII-era prototype equipment, just to show off!!!.

Extraordinarily impressive, my friend!
I think this is the only comment I'll ever be able to make in this thread!!

Since my Steelers are out, I'm rooting for the New England Seahawks!!
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Old 04-28-2015, 04:18 PM
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I think this is the only comment I'll ever be able to make in this thread!!

Since my Steelers are out, I'm rooting for the New England Seahawks!!
So how did that turn out ?

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Old 05-16-2015, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Thought I'd post a quick update... We've been enjoying the theater and the bar, and in fact we generally head straight there when we entertain. The bar area seems to be a great spot for appetizers and just to hang out before dinner. It's working well and I now generally have 2-4 home brews on tap. My days of buying commercial kegged beer are now behind me...


One problem has been with my Onkyo TX-NR3008 amp: The networking connection (by which MainLobby controls the amp) had become flakey for the past few weeks, and then this week the audio out from the amp died. And by "died", I mean that no sound would come out of any channel from any input. Dead.


Happily, however, I found that this is a well-known, class-level issue and that Onkyo has stepped up and extended the warranty on all affected units until 2018! Not bad for a 3 year old receiver. For anyone affected (or possibly at risk), here's the link: https://repair.onkyousa.com/na/003_2012.php?country=USA


So, they are sending out a pre-paid return box. Kind of a pain to have to pull it out and be without the use of the theater for however long it'll take, but hey, I'm not complaining. At least all the banana plugs and labels will come in handy when it comes to reinstalling it:







Otherwise, I've been busy rebuilding the deck on our house near Lake Tahoe. A deck is generally not that complicated of a project, but this one is 25' up in the air at its highest point, and we've had to bring in 40T cranes for both the deconstruction of the old one and the reconstruction of the new one. Here's a video of one of the old beams being removed (this is a 6 x 16 beam):



A shot of some of the new footings, ready for concrete:







The new 8x8 posts and beams in place:







And the new joists, ready for Trex:






Should be done in another couple weeks here, with a bit of luck...
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:19 PM
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All I want to know is if you and your wife are considering adopting 43 year old dudes?
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:23 PM
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You are a master craftsman congratulations you should be very proud!
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:35 AM
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Bryan,

Looking awesome! I saw a pic on facebook you posted and realized why you've been away. You've been missed around here so thanks for the update. Make sure you post up some final pics too!

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Old 05-18-2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post
Thought I'd post a quick update... We've been enjoying the theater and the bar, and in fact we generally head straight there when we entertain. The bar area seems to be a great spot for appetizers and just to hang out before dinner. It's working well and I now generally have 2-4 home brews on tap. My days of buying commercial kegged beer are now behind me...


One problem has been with my Onkyo TX-NR3008 amp: The networking connection (by which MainLobby controls the amp) had become flakey for the past few weeks, and then this week the audio out from the amp died. And by "died", I mean that no sound would come out of any channel from any input. Dead.


Happily, however, I found that this is a well-known, class-level issue and that Onkyo has stepped up and extended the warranty on all affected units until 2018! Not bad for a 3 year old receiver. For anyone affected (or possibly at risk), here's the link: https://repair.onkyousa.com/na/003_2012.php?country=USA


So, they are sending out a pre-paid return box. Kind of a pain to have to pull it out and be without the use of the theater for however long it'll take, but hey, I'm not complaining. At least all the banana plugs and labels will come in handy when it comes to reinstalling it:
I just went through this for the second time. First: with a lemon 807, that was replaced with an 818 refurb, that just went out. All tolled, it took less than 2 weeks from the time I reported it on their web form, to receiving the box, to being repaired. It shipped out on a Thursday, (Fedex home pickup-added a day, because none of my local Fedex would accept a package that large/heavy...) had it back by the following Friday. The actual repair took one day. You'll have it back in working order before you know it.

P.S. Here's the link for AVS'ers...Onkyo extended warranty
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:58 AM
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What a view you have!
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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The actual repair took one day. You'll have it back in working order before you know it.

P.S. Here's the link for AVS'ers...Onkyo extended warranty

That's great news, Kevin, thanks! I was wondering how long this would be...


Bryan
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:18 PM
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Bryan,

Trouble with the Onkyo?

Gaaahaaa!

I have been firmly in the "O" camp since we got that far with your Theater. To date....not a single blip or issue. Considering that amounts to over 20 units, I guess I must be the exception to the rule.

Perhaps heat has something to do with it, and since all my installs use dual Fan assemblies above the heat sinks (...guess why? ...) perhaps that might explain things.

Gosh...I remember the old Deck and the drop to the slope. Seeing the slope sans Pilings / Timber really sez it all.

Back in the day, all the rest of the basement was still a "dream" and I've watched it progress on your thread. When we discussed your future plans, although they sounded impressive, who'd a think they would have been so epic?

Well, I suppose you did, all along.

How's that old Girl of a PJ doin'? Still lightin' up that screen? I'd love to see some more shots of the Theater again, but I guess that's becoming old news for you by now. But just wait...if you ever get done and have a HT Meet at your place, I'm certain all that hard work and exquisite craftmanship will prompt a rush of admiration from everyone! (...and give that Beer Tap a real work out...)

There is of course the risk involved in prying everyone who comes out of the basement. It won't be easy.

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Old 05-19-2015, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Perhaps heat has something to do with it, and since all my installs use dual Fan assemblies above the heat sinks (...guess why? ...) perhaps that might explain things.

I do agree that heat has something to do with it. From what I've read, there are a couple of BGA chips on the HDMI board that can suffer from poor soldering and eventually lose contact with the board they are mounted on.


What fans do you install? Are these inside or outside of the receiver?


Thanks,
Bryan
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:55 AM
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I read it was a bad HDMI board design that caused so many HDMI issues with the Onkyo's... I have one in my garage that I'm too lazy to ship back to get it fixed. It runs outdoors speakers now.

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Old 05-19-2015, 10:22 AM
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I do agree that heat has something to do with it. From what I've read, there are a couple of BGA chips on the HDMI board that can suffer from poor soldering and eventually lose contact with the board they are mounted on.


What fans do you install? Are these inside or outside of the receiver?


Thanks,
Bryan
Outside...on top.

They can be Daisy Chained.

http://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MU...+for+receivers

Once you go to the link you'll also find a plethora of choices.

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Old 05-19-2015, 11:02 AM
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While I believe that heat may not have helped the issue...it was clearly a design/poor quality board, that was the final culprit. If heat were the main factor, there would be a wider range of failures. Most of the issues started at, or just out of warranty. (The two year Mark...)

Both my 807, (problem plagued from day one) and my current 818, have been in a temperature controlled basement theater since their introduction to my home. Cooler in the summer and winter, alike. Both had plenty of airflow, and never run at high levels for any extended time. The 807 by design, did run warm compared to the 818, but never "hot". The 807 actually lasted longer in my home, but the 818 is a far nicer unit.

My personal gut feeling is that they extended this special warranty to avoid any class-action lawsuits. And I said as much, and also took a lot of heat for it when this campaign was first announced. I was also pretty confident at the outset that the cause of these failures was not "heat".

Their sh!tty "customer service" is also pretty damnable...

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Old 05-19-2015, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Outside...on top.

They can be Daisy Chained.

http://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MU...+for+receivers

Once you go to the link you'll also find a plethora of choices.

Thanks!! Whether or not heat is/was/will be the culprit, some extra airflow cannot hurt...
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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My personal gut feeling is that they extended this special warranty to avoid any class-action lawsuits. And I said as much, and also took a lot of heat for it when this campaign was first announced. I was also pretty confident at the outset that the cause of these failures was not "heat".

Could well be the case, Kevin. I know pretty-much nothing about this and just stumbled into their warranty program while trying to look for a DIY solution to this problem.


It must be pretty widespread for Onkyo to be doing this... I have to imagine that it's costing them a couple/few hundred dollars per unit by the time you ship all 70 lbs (or whatever it is) both ways... I'll just be happy to have a working theater again!
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:47 PM
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Thanks!! Whether or not heat is/was/will be the culprit, some extra airflow cannot hurt...
Forget the chincy generic fans and go with a professional solution like THIS and venting your cabinet with something like THIS based on your airflow needs. Most of this is thermostatically controlled which means that it won't load your equipment with dust at an accelerated rate which will cause its own set of heating issues.

You want only as much air as is necessary to do the job and nothing more. Without the proper thermostatic controller, those standard fans are bad news.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Forget the chincy generic fans and go with a professional solution like THIS and venting your cabinet with something like THIS based on your airflow needs. Most of this is thermostatically controlled which means that it won't load your equipment with dust at an accelerated rate which will cause its own set of heating issues.

You want only as much air as is necessary to do the job and nothing more. Without the proper thermostatic controller, those standard fans are bad news.
Thanks, Tim, but I already have a Middle Atlantic quad fan, thermostatically-controlled ventilator at the top of my rack. I got the 2 chincy fans just to kick a bit more heat up out of the Onkyo and into the main flow from the larger fans, and I'll only turn on those chincy fans when the amp is on. If heat is truly the problem here, I'm hoping that the fix that Onkyo is putting in also includes some better heat sinking on the problematic parts (supposedly a couple of BGA (ball grid array) ASICs on the HDMI board.) Time will tell...
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:55 PM
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I am so impressed you must be a serious woodworker or hobbyist!
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I am so impressed you must be a serious woodworker or hobbyist!
Thanks! Your setup has some absolutely beautiful woodwork, so kudos to whomever crafted all that...
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:33 AM
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Thanks! Your setup has some absolutely beautiful woodwork, so kudos to whomever crafted all that...
Not me my craftsman woodworker I just came up with the ideas and write the checks
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Next little project.... some more shop drawers

So after a long hiatus from my shop, I decided to get back out there and finish a shop project that's been years overdue... building some shelves for my rolling cart. This cart serves as an infeed table for my table saw (when needed) and more recently, serves as a convenient work table when I'm brewing beer. I originally built the cart intending to add some drawers to it at some point, and now that I need more storage for brewing paraphernalia, it seemed like a good time to get 'er done. Finally.

I decided to build these drawers out of 1/2" pre-finished Baltic ply -- I was impressed with that material as part of the bar build. Here's a piece ready for initial cutting (sitting on the rolling cart) -- it comes in 60" x 60" sheets:




Once I had the pieces ripped to width, I cut them all to final length:






With that stack of them ready to turn into drawers, I next had to figure out how to join them. I considered dovetails, but plywood doesn't always seem to work that well for dovetails. As I was flipping through my Leigh (dovetail jig) manual, I realized that it can be used to make box joints, so I played around with that a bit, but using a router bit for box joints in plywood wasn't a good idea -- too much blowout of material due to all the unsupported cuts.

So, I decided to make a quick jig for cutting box (finger) joints on the tablesaw, which I've used before with success. A quick google found a design that Popular Woodworking published a while back.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/pr...saw-box-joints

First step was to build an L-shaped base and attach that to my miter gauge:




Next, install the two outer dado blades onto the saw, set to cut 1/4" wide, and set the height to the thickness of the base + the thickness of the drawer material. The piece on top helped determine when the blades were just skimming the bottom of it:




Next, I used a piece of oak as the moveable / adjustable portion of the jig, clamped that onto the base, and ran that all through the saw:




One of the critical parts of this jig is to machine a little key that's exactly the thickness of the notch I just cut, so I used the panel sander to sneak up on the thickness:




Once you have that fitting nicely, you cut it into three pieces: One gets glued into the oak piece (on the left below), one gets temporarily inserted into the grove in the jig, and the middle one spaces the two out correctly:




Once it's positioned correctly, you secure the oak piece to the base. I drilled the holes in the base a little oversized to allow for adjustment:




Finally, to allow for microadjusting of the jig, they recommended installing two blocks (one to the base and one to the movable piece) with a few pieces of paper in between:



To adjust, you loosen the 2 screws holding the oak piece, insert or remove a piece of paper (shifting the oak piece by that amount), and re-tighten the screws.


Now to cut a test joint. For the 4 sides of a drawer, 2 get cut in one mode, and 2 in the other. The first mode is where you simply butt the bottom of the side against the fixed key and make a cut. Then you move the piece down so the cut you just made slips over the key, make another, and so forth:




The second mode is where you have to use one of the loose keys from before. That gets placed against the fixed key and spaces the piece so the first cut is right at the edge of the piece:




After playing around with the blade height (I needed to sneak up on that) and the joint width (needed to remove 1 piece of paper), I ended up with a test joint I was happy with:



I think those remaining gaps should close up once I glue and clamp. And, after all, they're just shop drawers, for Pete's sake...

Drawer construction is next.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:19 PM
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Wow great post and update. Excellent work as usual.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:57 PM
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I think those remaining gaps should close up once I glue and clamp. And, after all, they're just shop drawers, for Pete's sake...

Drawer construction is next.
I think drawers from Henredon and Drexel Heritage for their signature series furniture are less precise than your shop drawers!!!

Always love seeing how you created jigs for construction consistency. Looking forward to the next set of posts.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:13 AM
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Bryan,

You think it's possible to do raise panel from PVC for an exterior window trim ?

I have a small bay window I want to juice up, but I have never tried (or even considered) using PVC as the substrate. It seems to cut well on the table saw. I wonder if it would take a router bit ?

I might try it.

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Old 03-07-2016, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Mike -- I have no direct experience in molding PVC, but I've seen Tommy on This Old House do all kinds of great stuff with it. My guess is that you'll be able to mill it up just as easily as wood. Keep your passes reasonable, i.e. don't try to hog out too much until you get a better feel for it, and I'm sure you'll be fine.

Let us know!
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some time in the shop today and was able to glue up the drawer boxes. Nothing too exciting here... just basic assembly.

First step was to mill a 1/4" dado along the inside bottom of all the drawer side pieces, making sure to keep the bottom (the reference surface) of each piece against the fence:




With a slightly wider dado blade setup in the saw, I cut a rabbet along all the edges of the drawer bottoms, to thin the 1/2" material down to fit in the 1/4" grooves:




Then time for some glue-up. The downside of this joint is there are a ton of surfaces to apply glue to... I just put a dab of glue on one side of each finger (of all 4 pieces) -- I figure this means there's glue every spot where unfinished wood meets unfinished wood:




I set up 4 clamps and applied pressure just inside the finger joints:



During my dry practice run, I noticed that this clamping arrangement was causing some bowing in of the sides near their middle. To correct for this, I cut 4 scrap pieces to fit inside the drawer and keep everything nice and straight. For the drawer above, one of the sides was actually bowing out, so a clamp pulled that back in until the glue in the grooves set.


Measure for square and tap a bit on the long diagonal until everything was good:




Finally, a quick clean-up of the squeeze-out:




Went pretty smoothly. I added some additional clamps for the taller drawers in order to pull the tops of the corners together:




Drawer fronts and slides next weekend...
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