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Dedicated Theater Design & Construction > My Mahogany / Invisible Speaker build
MarkDOregon's Avatar MarkDOregon 03:28 PM 08-19-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Thanks! I have to think a lot in advance or I end up with way too much Mahogany firewood... wink.gif

The most expensive firewood on the planet, I would suppose...

auburnu008's Avatar auburnu008 07:20 PM 08-19-2013
This is absolutely incredible. I wish I had your workshop!
Mfusick's Avatar Mfusick 09:10 AM 08-23-2013
Man oh Man do I love watching Bryan work. Results are spectacular biggrin.gif
Peter M's Avatar Peter M 09:29 PM 08-27-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Man oh Man do I love watching Bryan work. Results are spectacular biggrin.gif

Agreed. Every time I read this thread I shed tears of joy at the beauty of the craftsmanship on display. biggrin.gif

Cheers,
cowger's Avatar cowger 10:16 PM 09-02-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by auburnu008 View Post

This is absolutely incredible. I wish I had your workshop!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Man oh Man do I love watching Bryan work. Results are spectacular biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M View Post

Agreed. Every time I read this thread I shed tears of joy at the beauty of the craftsmanship on display. biggrin.gif

Thanks guys! You are far too kind but it is appreciated nonetheless. biggrin.gif

Now, since it's been far too long, an update is due!

As you know, all the cabinets so far have been constructed using Mahogany plywood, since many parts of those carcases will eventually be visible. For the remainder of the cabinets, I decided to use pre-finished Maple plywood, which is means that the interior will already have a nice, waterproof finish on it:



Here's a closer shot of the raw sheet, and you can see the nice factory finish on the material:



Because I didn't want to risk scratching that nice finish, I first polished my table saw surface (to ensure there weren't any little burrs sticking up) and then added a coat of paste wax. Makes the sheet goods glide across very nicely:



Then it was a matter of cutting things to size, milling dadoes, etc. BTW, one of my favorite hand tools is this little router plane:


It does such a nice job of evening out the bottom of the dado, which for me sometimes seems to be amazingly inconsistent in depth, no matter how carefully I run the material across the dado blades.


Then some glue-up of the next cabinet:



And some more of the glue-up. Quite a few clamps needed, but this cabinet was pretty straight-forward:

cowger's Avatar cowger 10:33 PM 09-02-2013
Next, some more deconstruction. But this wasn't just some drywall, this was part of the outside of the theater, built just a year or so ago. I only cried a little as I pulled the chair rail and base moldings off:



With that done, I could do a preliminary fit of the new cabinet into place:


I mostly needed to ensure that it fit correctly into that space, as this cabinet will determine where the bar surface extends out from the existing theater walls.


Before these new cabinets could be installed, it was time to call in a concrete driller to provide access for wiring and plumbing through the existing 8" thick stem wall:


Note that all possible images of concrete guy butt crack (worse even than plumber's crack!) have been carefully avoided for all our sakes!


More drilling:


I originally thought he'd be drilling in from the *back* side of that wall, but due to some technical difficulties, we decided to hit it from the finished side. Thankfully it didn't make nearly the mess that I thought it would...


Then onto more destruction of the existing HT. First was to tape up the area just next to the entrance that will hold the electronic movie poster:



Cutting into that wall was unnerving, but after measuring 5 times before cutting once, I finally went for it:


That opened things up and I just had one stud to cut out of the way.


To mount the display (which is just a 39" LCD TV hung vertically), I just installed a couple of what I think are called "French cleats" in the wall:



And a matching set on the back of the TV. Nothing fancy here:



And the display mounted into the opening:



Next I'll build a frame to hide the bezel of the display and the ugly opening into the wall..... stay tuned! smile.gif
cowger's Avatar cowger 01:27 AM 09-03-2013
That brings us up to today, and it was a crazy weather day here in NorCal - we got nearly an inch of rain today. The view from my shop:



So it was a good day to be inside and make some more progress. First thing was to build a frame out of Mahogany for the movie poster display. After milling up the pieces, I tacked them with glue and then epoxied in some right-angled metal brackets for strength:



To inlay those brackets, I just cobbled together a little template with hot-melt glue that matches the shape of the metal:


Then it's a pretty quick matter of using a pattern following bit in my little trim router to route out the material.


The finished movie poster with the frame installed. Obviously it will need to be finished to match the rest of the HT (and bar)...



And here's an example of the content for that screen:



A shot of the tall cabinets using the flash:


Coffee maker, refer, and ice maker are all just temporarily set into place (to make sure they fit). And I have the computer rack also temporarily installed, though that is powered up and running.


And the new lower cabinets, also with flash:



Finally, a shot without flash which shows less detail but seems more true to life:


That's all the progress to date. I have hot/cold water plumbed for the sink and the drain ready to go. Cold water plumbed to the ice maker, and the beginnings of power to all the outlets and appliances. Next will be to start on the cabinet that will form the bar itself, plus the uppers on the back wall...


Hey, does anyone know how to dim the "on" LED on an ASRock server? As you can see, it's quite bright... smile.gif
BllDo's Avatar BllDo 01:37 AM 09-03-2013
I have a light like that on the flat screen in my bedroom. Super annoying. Little piece of electrical tape goes a long way.

Looking good. Thanks for the pics.
Mfusick's Avatar Mfusick 07:08 AM 09-03-2013
You can unplug that power LED from the mobo. You could even put an on /off switch on it.

If you post a pic of the inside I could tell you which it is.

Is that a stock Asrock mobo ? that you home built ? Or a previously MFG made device. ?

Usually there is PWR_LED and HDD_LED on the headers ... U can simply unplug.

But if you unplug wrong ones your power button or reset button might stop working. In which case... Plug it back in biggrin.gif

If its individual wires on a header your golden, but sometimes mfg made stuff uses a plastic header pin for everything so you might not be able to unplug just the LED.

But you still could disable it by cutting that one wire, perhaps putting an internal switch or crimp connects internally so you could turn it back on easy in future. ( you will forget how if you don't do it up front , that's what happens to me biggrin.gif)

SOMETHING LIKE THIS:







USUALLY LOCATED ON ASROCK NEAR THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE MOBO.
cowger's Avatar cowger 04:09 PM 09-03-2013
Thanks -- I'm on the road now but will take a look into the server when I get home. I was really hoping to keep the LED working but just tone it down, either by adding more series resistance or by swapping it out with a less-bright version. But if that gets too ugly I'm not entirely opposed to just disabling it altogether...
Mfusick's Avatar Mfusick 06:15 AM 09-04-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Thanks -- I'm on the road now but will take a look into the server when I get home. I was really hoping to keep the LED working but just tone it down, either by adding more series resistance or by swapping it out with a less-bright version. But if that gets too ugly I'm not entirely opposed to just disabling it altogether...

Yes... You could easily tone it down just as easily as putting it on a switch or a terminal connect. Adding resistors or even a a few extra bulbs inside the case should tone it down.

Electrical tape over top is easiest way tho..
TMcG's Avatar TMcG 07:07 AM 09-04-2013
If you have access to that lens you can go through more than a few rounds with a Sharpie marker that has the effect of tinting the light's lens. I did this with our security system keypad in the master bedroom where I still wanted to be able to see the status light, but didn't want it lighting up the room at night. I could have Sharpie'd the outside but, like you, I embrace my OCD tendencies and went for the stealth approach! smile.gif

There's also a professional solution by a company called LightDims that makes essentially tinted stickers for exactly this type of problem: http://www.lightdims.com/store.htm and in action: http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/dim-or-block-annoying-led-ligh-147991
cowger's Avatar cowger 03:46 PM 09-04-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

There's also a professional solution by a company called LightDims that makes essentially tinted stickers for exactly this type of problem: http://www.lightdims.com/store.htm and in action: http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/dim-or-block-annoying-led-ligh-147991

Wow, what a perfect solution! I'm always amazed at what is available out there. Thanks, Tim, for pointing me to these! Ordered.

And Mario will be happy that I won't be voiding my warranty... smile.gif

Bryan
Mfusick's Avatar Mfusick 08:10 AM 09-06-2013
I was impressed too biggrin.gif. Much better solution than mine... Lol
JamesB77's Avatar JamesB77 08:55 AM 09-06-2013
Only just found your thread. Outsdanding work. The information about adding a router table to a table saw will come in handy as well. I have an older Delta TS-300, and whilst it works well for what I use it for It has a non-standard table size which makes finding accessories challenging.
Spaceman's Avatar Spaceman 09:21 AM 09-06-2013
Wow, that looks great! You might have mentioned it before, but what do you have planned for the large cubbies under the tv in the corner?

Does the movie poster tv stay cool enough where you don't need to worry about ventilation? I have 2 plasmas which could double as space heaters, but I've never owned an LCD before.
cowger's Avatar cowger 05:01 PM 09-06-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesB77 View Post

Only just found your thread. Outsdanding work. The information about adding a router table to a table saw will come in handy as well. I have an older Delta TS-300, and whilst it works well for what I use it for It has a non-standard table size which makes finding accessories challenging.

Thank you! Good luck with adding a router table and please share any pictures you'd care to! smile.gif
cowger's Avatar cowger 05:11 PM 09-06-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Wow, that looks great! You might have mentioned it before, but what do you have planned for the large cubbies under the tv in the corner?

Does the movie poster tv stay cool enough where you don't need to worry about ventilation? I have 2 plasmas which could double as space heaters, but I've never owned an LCD before.


My idea for that center TV cabinet is to keep the middle open and use that to display liquor bottles, both ones that look nice and ones that I commonly use. Something like this:


I'm thinking glass shelving that's frosted underneath with some strip RGB LED lighting. I still need to play around with that so I've just left it open for now, assuming I can just slide in whatever I end up doing. I'll probably mock up something in cheap wood first to see how it works. With how it's shown above, with that barrel vault treatment on the top, I'm afraid that it will be pretty inconvenient to move bottles in and out (not enough room). So I'll have to see what works...

While not yet added in my CAD model, I'm thinking of putting some slide-out shelves in the lower section, behind two doors. Perhaps two shelves on one side (for normal height bottles) and just one shelf on the other side, for the tall 1.5L bottles.

VERY open to any inputs, ideas, and suggestions for that whole cabinet! The only thing truly fixed for now is just the TV on top.


On the LCD movie poster screen, yes, it runs very cool. I left it on for a day with some boards around all 4 sides and it was barely warm. Thankfully... smile.gif
cowger's Avatar cowger 09:52 AM 09-23-2013
Well, I'm back after a couple weeks of travel. Not much in the way of construction, but I did manage to work a bit on the project this weekend.

First off, the LightDims that Tim suggested arrived and work great! I'll need to get a picture to show the before and after...

Second, I was able to do some work cleaning up the wiring in the second of my two Lutron panels. After years of rather haphazardly adding circuits, including the new ones for the bar, it was time to clean it up... clearly:



I labeled everything and then pulled all the wiring out so I could get at and clean up the ground wires first:



Everything back in and connected:



I know there's probably nothing more boring than looking at someone else's wiring, but I think it looks a lot better:




Also, yesterday I mocked up the beer faucet tower and got that temporarily installed over one of the kegerators:


The three pieces of MDF are supposed to emulate the eventual bar top, including the final height of the granite. I will need to do some more playing around with the plumbing so that I can get the tower sufficiently air cooled, even though it's about 8" above the top of the kegerators.

Unfortunately, with both the old tower that came with the kegerator and my new brass tower, I'm getting mostly foam:


I had previously thought it was the cheap faucet in the single tower, but with both faucets dispensing foam, I need to start playing around with things to figure out what's going on. I suspect I overcarbonated the keg at some point, so I'll work on that and hopefully get the beer pouring better soon.
Mfusick's Avatar Mfusick 11:40 AM 09-23-2013
I'd have to stop working and fix the beer - just so I had the beer so I could continue working. I learned this from my dad, as he can't work unless he has a beer. It's not good to do home construction projects if beer is unavailable tongue.gif
cowger's Avatar cowger 04:18 PM 09-23-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

I'd have to stop working and fix the beer - just so I had the beer so I could continue working. I learned this from my dad, as he can't work unless he has a beer. It's not good to do home construction projects if beer is unavailable tongue.gif

Right you are, sir, and this is taking top priority. wink.gif

First check was the temperature, by sticking in a glass of water, letting it sit for a few hours, and then measuring it. Temp was *way* too high at 44 degrees. I'll get it down into the mid- to upper-30s and try again...
TMcG's Avatar TMcG 07:18 PM 09-23-2013
I'm certainly not a draft beer pro (at least that's what I keep telling my wife), but that's definitely over-carbonated and probably exacerbated by the higher temperature. Get the temp to a steady 36 degrees and 12-14 pounds of CO2 pressure and you should be good to go. The only problem is that once you've over-carbonated the keg, your only option to "start over" is to pull the keg and let it come back up to ambient temperature, releasing the pressure a few times along the way. Then it's just a matter of re-chilling and slowly bringing up the pressure. This is probably stuff you already know, so take it FWIW.
cowger's Avatar cowger 07:31 PM 09-23-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I'm certainly not a draft beer pro (at least that's what I keep telling my wife), but that's definitely over-carbonated and probably exacerbated by the higher temperature. Get the temp to a steady 36 degrees and 12-14 pounds of CO2 pressure and you should be good to go. The only problem is that once you've over-carbonated the keg, your only option to "start over" is to pull the keg and let it come back up to ambient temperature, releasing the pressure a few times along the way. Then it's just a matter of re-chilling and slowly bringing up the pressure. This is probably stuff you already know, so take it FWIW.

Tim -- I'm actually a draft beer newbie, so thank you!! I'm cooling it down now, will let it get to 36 at least overnight, and see what happens. If needed, it's good to know how to recover from the over-carbonation.

When you say "slowly bringing up the pressure", does that mean start at something like 4 psi, let it sit over night, then 6 psi, etc., or how slow is "slow"?
TMcG's Avatar TMcG 09:17 PM 09-23-2013
Right after college my roommates and I decided it was a good idea to get a Kegerator, so a lot of the advice is coming from memory....but the over-carbonation is not something that won't go away unless it is disconnected from the gas system. And at lower temps it will take a long time to release the gas pressure. Either way you're going to have to disconnect the gas system and release the pressure every now and again - it just happens much faster with a warmer keg.

As for slowly bringing up the pressure....different types of beer react differently to different pressures. I'd start around 8 pounds and slowly build up to where the flow and foam meet your expectations. Most beers are in the 12 to 14 pound range. Starting high just encourages the foam problem.

In three weeks I will be ordering my much more modest dual tap keg dispenser: http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/SBC490BISSTBTWIN.html for my basement.....I can't wait!!
cowger's Avatar cowger 09:31 PM 09-23-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Right after college my roommates and I decided it was a good idea to get a Kegerator, so a lot of the advice is coming from memory....but the over-carbonation is not something that won't go away unless it is disconnected from the gas system. And at lower temps it will take a long time to release the gas pressure. Either way you're going to have to disconnect the gas system and release the pressure every now and again - it just happens much faster with a warmer keg.

As for slowly bringing up the pressure....different types of beer react differently to different pressures. I'd start around 8 pounds and slowly build up to where the flow and foam meet your expectations. Most beers are in the 12 to 14 pound range. Starting high just encourages the foam problem.

In three weeks I will be ordering my much more modest dual tap keg dispenser: http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/SBC490BISSTBTWIN.html for my basement.....I can't wait!!

All great info, thanks again. You've encouraged me that I can get those mugs of perfect draft beer going here... smile.gif
Mfusick's Avatar Mfusick 09:55 AM 09-24-2013
I'm going pure bottles in my theater ... It just seems easier (but less awesome).
NickTheGreat's Avatar NickTheGreat 10:11 AM 09-24-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

I'm going pure bottles in my theater ... It just seems easier (but less awesome).

But from a Hombrewing perspective, kegging is less work. and still cooler! tongue.gifcool.gif
MississippiMan's Avatar MississippiMan 11:00 AM 09-24-2013
Oh sure....put the Keg / Tap in long after I have come and gone. mad.gif

Harrrumph!
cowger's Avatar cowger 11:14 AM 09-24-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTheGreat View Post

But from a Hombrewing perspective, kegging is less work. and still cooler! tongue.gifcool.gif

Yup! That's my plan, to get into homebrewing and have a couple/three on tap. But first I need to finish this danged bar... smile.gif
cowger's Avatar cowger 11:15 AM 09-24-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Oh sure....put the Keg / Tap in long after I have come and gone. mad.gif

Harrrumph!

Yes, definitely would have been nice but who knows, maybe the perfect screen you painted for me wouldn't have been quite so good... : )
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