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post #631 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided to rework my rack location. I had originally planned to have the rack inside the equipment room but realized that I could rip out the wall with the doorway and be able to fit the rack and the doorway by moving the wall in. This way I can easily access the rack from the theater and also have easy access to the wiring in the back. One of the return air vents for the theater is where the rack will go so I'm going to move it.

Before


After tearing out the wall.

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post #632 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 10:14 AM
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Nice move. I had assumed that was what you would be doing all along. I have my double MRK series racks doing the same thing. I don't know if you thought about how your are finishing around the rack, but I offer this tip so you (and everyone else) can learn from my mistake:

Make your rough framing 1 3/4" wider than the width of the rack on the sides, 7/8" taller on the top, and space the inner edge of the rough framing at least 4 inches from the corner of any wall, if possible. This will allow you to attach 3/4" solid (or PVC) moulding stock around the perimeter of the rough framing and give you an attachment point for your 3.5" casing around the perimeter of the rack to finish the look.

The other option I used in my last house was to build a small framed box roughly the footprint of the rack, topped with 3/4" plywood. Height would be above your baseboard about 1" at a minimum. The rough framing opening allowed approximately 1/8" all around. I then used drywall "j" channel to achieve a finished edge. I pushed the rack through the wall until it was slightly proud of the drywall and finished with black caulking around the perimeter for an ultra-tight custom look. With a 44u rack the overall height does get a bit tall, but I put my whole-house amps, matrix switchers and other stuff that doesn't require loading media at the top of the rack to bring other sources to eye level and within reach.

Just some food for thought as you consider your finish work around the rack, although I am sure you have already!

You are definitely in the home stretch - can't wait to see the rest!
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post #633 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I just ripped all this apart last night so I have not really figured out completely how I am going to finish it. I do want to have the rack up on a platform so I can still run baseboards. This does put the top of the rack pretty high but I can place stuff that does not get much use up at the top. I realized last night that the rack is 40U not 44U as I mentioned earlier.

I do not have much room for trim around the rack so I'll have to fit it pretty tight and then use something small for trim.
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post #634 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Went with 2 layers with green glue.

If my two-layer-3/4-with-tarpaper-inbetween-stage is any indication, you should be fine. There is a noticeable difference when stepping up onto the stage from the dricore subfloor.

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post #635 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

If my two-layer-3/4-with-tarpaper-inbetween-stage is any indication, you should be fine. There is a noticeable difference when stepping up onto the stage from the dricore subfloor.

I think your right - the two layers seem very solid to me as far as footsteps go. I assume it will become better once the Green Glue has cured. I can still get the stage to flex quite a bit with the subs going.

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You will not need the but kickers on the riser. if you look through my thread I built my riser the same way but mine is much smaller. I only have a 12" SVS sub and it is unreal how much tactical response I get from just one sub I can only imagine what four 18" subs are going to do.

By the way w00lly you are right, the subs do really give quite a tactile response on the stage. Kind of makes me wish my whole floor was like this. I doubt I will need the buttkickers but have the wiring there just in case.
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post #636 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 02:21 PM
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Nice I like to see I'm not the only one that rips stuff out while building! Just the other day I was thinking of moving the back wall of my theater so I could move my seating back. Then I got to looking at the basement and thought of just moving the whole build down there. I'm back to my original room though I have one sheet of drywall removed behind my equipment rack so I can add more wire chases.

Were did you get your step lights?
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post #637 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post


I think your right - the two layers seem very solid to me as far as footsteps go. I assume it will become better once the Green Glue has cured. I can still get the stage to flex quite a bit with the subs going.

By the way w00lly you are right, the subs do really give quite a tactile response on the stage. Kind of makes me wish my whole floor was like this. I doubt I will need the buttkickers but have the wiring there just in case.

Looking great SM. Keep up the good work. I like your placement of the rack; and yes, those custom shelves can add up very quickly as I found out for myself. It looks pretty nice though when it's done. When I put my doors in front of the rack I was kind of disappointed not to see it.

By the way, I sent all my incandescent rope light back and tried out LED RGB strip lights that I found for a great price on Amazon. Really worked great, so I ordered enough to go around my star field and my side walls. I know you were going between colors. It's pretty cool having the ability to change the color with these strips. A 16.4' strip with controller, power supply, and remote was $40 bucks. I put a quick pic up on my build thread and will add more when I install all of them.
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post #638 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ktm250rider View Post


Were did you get your step lights?

I picked up the step lights at Amazon. They were cheap but I did not read the description very well. I assumed that they were the size of a regular outlet box. If you look at the picture below you can see that I did not mount the box flush with the top of the framing on the riser. It sticks up 1/4 inch or so. I did that to give me some more room at the bottom of the box for the cover. I had to route out the plywood a bit to fit the flooring over the box. I'm still going to have to cut the top off the cover to make it fit once the carpet is in. Kind of a pain, but I did not want to put off the riser any longer to wait for a different light.

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Pacific-...9863116&sr=8-2

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post #639 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RedTopDown View Post

Looking great SM. Keep up the good work. I like your placement of the rack; and yes, those custom shelves can add up very quickly as I found out for myself. It looks pretty nice though when it's done. When I put my doors in front of the rack I was kind of disappointed not to see it.

By the way, I sent all my incandescent rope light back and tried out LED RGB strip lights that I found for a great price on Amazon. Really worked great, so I ordered enough to go around my star field and my side walls. I know you were going between colors. It's pretty cool having the ability to change the color with these strips. A 16.4' strip with controller, power supply, and remote was $40 bucks. I put a quick pic up on my build thread and will add more when I install all of them.

Glad you got the lighting worked out with something you like. Its one of those things that would be nice to be able to see before you order. Yes the rack shelves are pretty expensive. Was glad to find a used rack, but in the scheme of things the rack seems like the cheap part.
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post #640 of 1093 Old 02-21-2012, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

Was glad to find a used rack, but in the scheme of things the rack seems like the cheap part.

Amen to that! Kind of like when I thought the engagement ring was expensive 22 years ago!
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post #641 of 1093 Old 02-22-2012, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been getting ready for carpet and had initially planned to put in the carpet first and then put in the columns over the carpet and install baseboards and everything after the carpet. It seemed like having 8 columns to work around in the theater plus a stage and riser and everything else is a lot to deal with. However I have been thinking lately it would be nice to get everything in place first then have the carpet installed.

I am also curious if most people put in the screenwall after the carpet is laid. I was thinking it would be nice to have the carpet go all the way to the back wall and then build the screenwall over it but I could just as easily put in the screenwall now and have the carpet go up to the screenwall and just put some inexpensive carpet behind the wall.

I wanted to try and make things easier on the installer but maybe I ought to just put everything in place and give the installer a big tip. I've never installed carpet before so I do not know how difficult it is to work around this stuff. Just curious what others thought about when I should install the carpet?
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post #642 of 1093 Old 02-22-2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

I've been getting ready for carpet and had initially planned to put in the carpet first and then put in the columns over the carpet and install baseboards and everything after the carpet. It seemed like having 8 columns to work around in the theater plus a stage and riser and everything else is a lot to deal with. However I have been thinking lately it would be nice to get everything in place first then have the carpet installed.

I am also curious if most people put in the screenwall after the carpet is laid. I was thinking it would be nice to have the carpet go all the way to the back wall and then build the screenwall over it but I could just as easily put in the screenwall now and have the carpet go up to the screenwall and just put some inexpensive carpet behind the wall.

I wanted to try and make things easier on the installer but maybe I ought to just put everything in place and give the installer a big tip. I've never installed carpet before so I do not know how difficult it is to work around this stuff. Just curious what others thought about when I should install the carpet?

In my case, I'm cutting right in the theater. So I wanted to get all construction out of the way before carpeting arrives. I would put the columns in before carpet. It probably won't even affect your installation costs. I believe that's what BIG also does on his projects. Do what makes it easier for you...not the carpet guy that comes in for a half day.

Some had mentioned in my thread to do it the other way, carpet then columns, in case I decide to take out the columns...but honestly, if I'm taking out the columns for one reason or another, I've got bigger expenses than replacing the carpet.
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post #643 of 1093 Old 02-22-2012, 02:38 PM
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I would definitely put in all the columns, front screen wall and any finish carpentry, specifically baseboards, prior to the carpet going in. Just cut yourself a piece of scrap about 3/8" high. This will allow you to space the baseboard evenly off the floor, allowing carpet to be tucked underneath. The carpet guys can lay the tack strip in front of the baseboard and then tuck the excess for a perfect look.

As for behind the stage wall, depending on how the carpet lays out I am willing to bet that you will have enough scrap to have the carpet guys install back there - even if the grain is in the wrong direction vs. in front of the screen.
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post #644 of 1093 Old 02-22-2012, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

I wanted to try and make things easier on the installer but maybe I ought to just put everything in place and give the installer a big tip. I've never installed carpet before so I do not know how difficult it is to work around this stuff. Just curious what others thought about when I should install the carpet?

If I was going to use carpet with a pattern, I think I would make the installer's life as easy as possible, just to maximize the odds that the pattern will be matched to my satisfaction. If I was using "plain" carpet, I would probably worry more about my own convenience and less about the installer's.

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post #645 of 1093 Old 02-22-2012, 05:30 PM
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Stk2k - great progress so far. FWIW, I'm at the same stage re; carpet. I'm getting my base molding stained now and plan to install prior to carpet going in. My "columns" in the rear of my room are in; I wouldn't do it after carpet.

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post #646 of 1093 Old 02-22-2012, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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It sounds like the way to go is probably to get everything installed first then. Makes things easier for me. Guess I'll start installing the columns and baseboards. Will also make it easier for me to do the screenwall first so I can do all the cutting right in the room. I ordered a screen today but there is a 2-3 week wait on the Seymour XD fabric right now. Guess I can work on the equipment room if I run out of things to do.
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post #647 of 1093 Old 02-24-2012, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I framed in the equipment rack last night. I first had to drywall and put insulation in the wall behind the rack. I only put drywall in that area and will do the rest later. I want to leave the walls open in the equipment room as long as possible in case I decide to run additional wiring. I built a 6 1/4 inch platform for the rack to sit on. The subfloor will be a inch so that will leave me 5 1/4" for the baseboard. I'm going to drywall around the rack while it is in place. I have a very limited amount of space to fit the rack and a door in this wall so I am not able to allow for a lot of extra space around the rack. The rack is right against the drywall in the equipment room which blocks the venting on one side. I am going to have active cooling with vents on the top. I installed the temperature monitor and fan controller last night also.

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post #648 of 1093 Old 02-25-2012, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished framing and drywalled the lobby and equipment rack.

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post #649 of 1093 Old 02-25-2012, 07:02 PM
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post #650 of 1093 Old 02-25-2012, 09:30 PM
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Your equipment rack fits great between the doors even with the tight space. The angle also sets it off nicely.

The theater is looking very nice...really like your starfield.

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post #651 of 1093 Old 02-26-2012, 04:24 AM
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Rack looks great. Nice job.

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post #652 of 1093 Old 02-26-2012, 05:46 PM
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Yeah. No kidding you aren't messing around. I'm still trying to finish up my light tray after a week. Oh and that does look great.

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post #653 of 1093 Old 02-26-2012, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah. No kidding you aren't messing around. I'm still trying to finish up my light tray after a week. Oh and that does look great.

My light tray took me months. Even my riser took nearly 3 weeks.
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post #654 of 1093 Old 02-27-2012, 10:43 AM
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SCHWEEET! Looking good!

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post #655 of 1093 Old 02-27-2012, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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SCHWEEET! Looking good!

Hope you are referring to my progress and not my comment about spending 3 weeks on the riser and months on the light tray. I'm trying hard not to be "Loganed"
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post #656 of 1093 Old 02-27-2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

Finished framing and drywalled the lobby and equipment rack.


Looks great! I'm assuming that the front of the rack will either have a clear door or none. If that's the case, that'll be pretty cool walking by as you enter the HT. Nice use of space and visual as well.
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post #657 of 1093 Old 02-27-2012, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not planning on a door right now. While the custom RSH faceplates are expensive, I'll probably go that route. The plexiglass door is nearly $600 and I would still have to get shelves. My only concern with not having a door is keeping the kids from making adjustments to the components.
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post #658 of 1093 Old 02-27-2012, 01:48 PM
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I'm not planning on a door right now. While the custom RSH faceplates are expensive, I'll probably go that route. The plexiglass door is nearly $600 and I would still have to get shelves. My only concern with not having a door is keeping the kids from making adjustments to the components.

I hear you there! I was looking at around $1,200 for two doors and just couldn't stomach that. It's nuts charging that much. Plus for me, I'd still be dealing with fan noise issues since mine is located in the HT. I'm sure you could make your own door for that area that would cost much less and still look really good.
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post #659 of 1093 Old 02-27-2012, 02:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah the racks are pretty crazy price wise. I thought some of the audiophile racks were crazy, but these really add up. You have a lot of fans on those amps - how are you dealing with the noise? I have 1 behringer EP4000 and just a single was much too loud to have in the room. I did the fan mod and was much better after that. You have enough fans on your amps though that you might have enough airflow to not need anything else on your rack. I just ordered the fan top without the fans for mine and am using 3rd party 12v fans instead of the expensive 120v middle atlantic fans. The rack mountable thermostat / fan controller / 12v power supply / and 3 fans (totaling 180CFM)/ and the middle atlantic fan top was about $120. The middle atlantic integrated top is $400 and another $80 or so if you want a rack mount temperature display. The Middle Atlantic solution is 150 cfm if you use the quiet fans (30dbA) and 285CFM if you use the loud (39dbA) fans.
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post #660 of 1093 Old 02-27-2012, 05:34 PM
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StkMk2k - entrance is a great layout for the theater. Nice job. I agree on the EP4000 noise...not an issue for me as I've got equip hidden in another room, but that sure does hum....but results w/ the IB are worth it!

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