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post #1081 of 1093 Old 05-10-2013, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

Hey Stock, what going on? How's your IB treating you?

I'm really enjoying the IB. Overall I'm very happy with it, but I do wish I had a little better ULF extension. The subs do naturally start to roll off in my room at about 18hz or so - I have been able to extend that down to 16hz or so with the BFD, but I really wish I had a lower hinge point on my EQ to boost lower. I still do get a lot of ULF response (the kind that shakes your hair and such) but I know that I still have more headroom down around 10hz and below, but just cant boost that with a 20hz filter. Ive thought of buying a Symmetrix 551 EQ that has a 10hz hinge point to try and get some boost at 10hz.

I have wondered if maybe my dayton omnimic response is not accurate down low and the roll off is not as bad as it is, because sometimes it seems the response is there, but it does not measure that way. I have the early omnimic and need to send it back to have it recalibrated down to 5hz. I do know that on the "Irene" scene from Blackhawk Down, I do not feel much of anything of the 6hz signal (the higher harmonics are there) I did expect more room gain below 20hz, but that being said, the sub is still awesome and a lot of fun. The beauty of it is that it is so invisible that it is surprising (and sometimes shocking) when it comes to life. Had some people over that had not experienced the subs yet come over and they wanted to watch Hunger Games. Most of the movie is pretty light on the bass, but when the ship flies over or the cannon went off they were blown away and wondering where it came from.
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post #1082 of 1093 Old 05-10-2013, 08:26 AM
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Very interesting. You have eq'd, and in control of your chain more than I. It is still on my list to do but I just don't feel an overwhelming need as I am very happy with ulf in my room. May be the cement walls? There are no rattles in the room except for my chairs and riser so I either get the chairs rumbling somewhere around 20-25hz, and lower. Or for the lower scenes (according to other peoples graphs, you know the ones that have done the work I am too lazy to do. smile.gif ) The chairs will convulse more violently, almost twisting and my hair will seem to move. Not a midbase or air movement thing but the ulf makes my hair vibrate to where it feels like it curls. Weird thing to explain. tongue.gif

I really should tweak it like you have as I am sure there are nulls in there, but something else always seems to get my money and time. Right now I am acumaulating funds to replace my 4 year old RS10 and have enough now to get the RS4810 or lesser. Just waitng for the right time to jump. cool.gif

Location: Beaverton, Oregon
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post #1083 of 1093 Old 05-10-2013, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

I followed your build so now it is good to read some of your thoughts after living with the "completed" theater for awhile.
I know you put a lot of effort into soundproofing. Difficult to block all those low frequencies coming from the IB setup but in general are you happy with the results?
Do you find the star ceiling was worth the pain and suffering? Do you typically leave it on during movies? I imagine guests seeing it for the first time are totally amazed.

I'm very happy with the soundproofing. It is easily the best money I spent regarding the theater - It allows me to use the theater at any time of day without fear of waking the kids. At insane levels inside the theater, you can hear the bass on the main floor in the family room and kitchen right above the theater and it can be felt through the floor, but upstairs where the bedrooms are, it is totally quiet. The best benefit though is the low noise floor inside the theater. I used to always miss dialog in my old theater and often had to constantly fiddle with the volume to hear the quiet parts and not get blasted out of the room on the loud parts. Now I can set it at one volume and not have to worry about it anymore - You hear everything from the quietest whispers to explosions that make you feel like the walls are going to come down. I really cannot recommend soundproofing enough - Anyone wondering whether it is worth the money and additional time, all I can say is just do it. I would sacrifice equipment easily before I would sacrifice the soundproofing. It just makes it so much easier to enjoy the theater.

I do leave the star ceiling on all the time when watching movies - My movie watching setting on the grafik eye dims the stars down and they are not distracting at all - I always ask guests who are watching for the first time if they prefer to have the stars off and nobody has ever wanted them off. It is really cool when you get a starry sky in a movie and it just expands into the ceiling - its a really cool effect and I always get comments when the screen "matches" the ceiling. We watched "Life of Pi" a few weeks ago and the night scenes out in the middle of the ocean were really cool. It is another thing that was well worth the time and money to do in my room. It is the first thing that people comment on when seeing the theater for the first time and really distinguishes the room from a normal run of the mill home theater. The star ceiling really gives the room something special and its nice to have something visible for all the effort unlike soundproofing where most people are not going to see or understand the effort involved.
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post #1084 of 1093 Old 05-10-2013, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

I'm very happy with the soundproofing. It is easily the best money I spent regarding the theater - It allows me to use the theater at any time of day without fear of waking the kids. At insane levels inside the theater, you can hear the bass on the main floor in the family room and kitchen right above the theater and it can be felt through the floor, but upstairs where the bedrooms are, it is totally quiet. The best benefit though is the low noise floor inside the theater. I used to always miss dialog in my old theater and often had to constantly fiddle with the volume to hear the quiet parts and not get blasted out of the room on the loud parts. Now I can set it at one volume and not have to worry about it anymore - You hear everything from the quietest whispers to explosions that make you feel like the walls are going to come down. I really cannot recommend soundproofing enough - Anyone wondering whether it is worth the money and additional time, all I can say is just do it. I would sacrifice equipment easily before I would sacrifice the soundproofing. It just makes it so much easier to enjoy the theater.

I do leave the star ceiling on all the time when watching movies - My movie watching setting on the grafik eye dims the stars down and they are not distracting at all - I always ask guests who are watching for the first time if they prefer to have the stars off and nobody has ever wanted them off. It is really cool when you get a starry sky in a movie and it just expands into the ceiling - its a really cool effect and I always get comments when the screen "matches" the ceiling. We watched "Life of Pi" a few weeks ago and the night scenes out in the middle of the ocean were really cool. It is another thing that was well worth the time and money to do in my room. It is the first thing that people comment on when seeing the theater for the first time and really distinguishes the room from a normal run of the mill home theater. The star ceiling really gives the room something special and its nice to have something visible for all the effort unlike soundproofing where most people are not going to see or understand the effort involved.

That sound lovely. I bet guests have an excellent time enjoying the hard work with such a star ceiling. Life of Pi would have been cool...wish I could have seen that.
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post #1085 of 1093 Old 09-21-2013, 07:07 PM
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Nice! learnt alot from your thread, especially the star ceiling. Finally your thread cleared my questions mind.
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post #1086 of 1093 Old 09-23-2013, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kk2013 View Post

Nice! learnt alot from your thread, especially the star ceiling. Finally your thread cleared my questions mind.

I spent a lot of time thinking about the star ceiling and how I was going to attach it without being overly complicated. The FOSI recommended method of attaching the panels seemed overly complicated (not to mention expensive with the aluminum channel) and I was worried about vibration with their system. Attaching the panels with the screws gave a rigid mechanical connection with no vibration.
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post #1087 of 1093 Old 10-17-2013, 07:08 AM
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Great Build StockMonkey.  I don't have the patience to create what you have.  :)

 

Question:  Could you use a product like Kerdi Board for the Star Ceiling?

 

http://www.amazon.com/KERDI-BOARD-Thick-Waterproof-Substrate-Building/dp/B00CMCWD04/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1382018216&sr=1-7&keywords=kerdi+board

 

- While it is more expensive 20 x 12 for $666.85 the weight is a fraction of even lightweight MDF.

- 1/2" would provide enough ridigity, unless you are standing on it?

- Each board only weighs 4 lbs

 

Wanted to garner your thoughts as you are the expert.

 

Thanks

 

Bill

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post #1088 of 1093 Old 10-17-2013, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm not that familiar with the Kerdi Board - But just based on the description it does not seem ideal to me - Given that it is covered in a thinset mortar, I would worry about that flaking off when cutting. or flaking off underneath the fabric that you cover them with, leaving bumps. It is also important to join the panels together (with biscuits on the edge) so they do not sag relative to one another. Not sure how you could put biscuits in with a mortar coating. You are going to be drilling thousands of tiny holes in this so drilling through a thin mortar with a 1mm hobby bit is going to wear out your bits super fast. You might not even be able to get through it with a 1mm bit because they might just heat up too fast - its like drilling with a needle.

The other concern is how well the fabric adhesive is going to stick to the kerdi board - after my experiences with the glue not sticking to the fabric I would make sure that you can get good adhesion to it before investing all that money.

I originally looked for some lightweight material for the ceiling also, but ultimately decided that MDF was cheap and effective.
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post #1089 of 1093 Old 10-17-2013, 08:24 AM
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Wow.  You replied so quick...

 

Kerdi board is designed to accept thin set mortar.  It is used as backing board for tile.

 

http://www.schluter.com/media/KB-BROCHURE-Final.pdf‎

 

It has a paper-like "fleece webbing" on the surface which I am pretty sure would accept spray adhesive easily.

I am thinking about painting it rather than fabric.  (Thoughts here?)

 

with the entire ceiling "perfectly flat" and only weighing 20 pounds you would use significantly less anchors?

 

I was think about using small blocks (Kerdi) to support each panel with possibly only 8 screw to each?

 

It has a foam core so better sound absorption?

 

Connecting the panels and creating the perfect flat seam will be tricky.  I am thinking about sheetrock spackle.

Will need to test.

 

 

Two other questions:

 

Did you consider a 16:9 screen and mask it for movies?

 

How do you like your JVC RS45?  If you were in the market today would you purchase the JVC DLA-X55?

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post #1090 of 1093 Old 10-17-2013, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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My panels are supported around the entire perimeter but still hidden in the center of the field and I used finishing nails in the middle to give extra support. As long as you are confident that the panels will not sag, you should be fine with using less screws. You also want to make sure that the panels are not going to vibrate. If you are going to use sheetrock spackle to cover the seams, I think it is going to be difficult to get a good enough finish to be able to paint - also remember some of the stars are going to be on or near the seams - you will have to drill the holes first, insert the fiber, and then you are going to deal with the seams with the fibers sticking though. It sounds like a pretty difficult task to me. Ideally you want to install a finished panel and fit the next finished panel to the next one. You do not want to be messing with paint or mudding seams after the fibers are installed.

I did not consider a 16:9 screen. I had 16:9 in my last theater and knew I wanted a Constant image height. Scope movies are supposed to be larger than 16:9 not smaller. I'm really glad I chose a 2:35 screen. I do not do any side masking for 16:9 material. The JVC is black enough that I did not feel it was necessary.

Haven't looked at the x-55 so I'm not sure of the differences. I do love the RS45 though and my only complaint is the bulb life. My bulb had dimmed significantly at 1000 hours (which is good compared to what some got with the first generation lamp). I'm hoping my new lamp lasts longer - apparently they have corrected a problem with the 1st generation lamp. When I bought the projector there were only a few options that had motorized zoom and lens memories. That was one of the key reasons I chose the JVC.
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post #1091 of 1093 Old 10-17-2013, 10:09 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply again...

 

I am width constrained 14 1/2' screen area with speakers on the side as yours is.

 

120" width screen.

 

I am debating on a

 

120" wide (113" x 64" viewable)  16:9 vs 

 

I would use the 16:9 for TV shows and the kids Xbox 

Then mask the bottom (If I needed it? JVC does great black) for movies and use the lens memory to shift the image to the top?

 

120" wide (113" x 48" viewable) 2.35

Show the TV and Xbox with black bars on the side and use lens memory to shift back and forth?

 

http://www.projectorcentral.com/235_home_theater.htm

 

Projector Central has a relatively good article describing each approach.  I wanted to get a "real" opinion.

 

Thanks Again.

 

Bill

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post #1092 of 1093 Old 11-20-2013, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

I just checked my settings - they are all switched to the right except 6 and 7. So I do have the clip limiter on. You can run the output of your receiver to input one and run in parallel mode and it will produce the same signal on channel 2.

Hello stockmonkey, I just finished reading your entire build thread; I started yesterday. You did an incredible job! Your workmanship is surely awe-worthy.
About your sub response, did you ever turn your clip limiter off and try it? I also wanted to suggest using a splitter from your EQ or processor (whichever the last box is in your signal chain before your amp) and using both amp inputs with two cables. Several AVS members have noticed a significantly decreased gain levels, up to 12 db, on channel 2 when using the parallel input method. I'm wondering if one of your sets of IB's is not being fed the same level signal as the other on channel 1. Just a suggestion.
Congratulations on your room!
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post #1093 of 1093 Old 11-20-2013, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post

Hello stockmonkey, I just finished reading your entire build thread; I started yesterday. You did an incredible job! Your workmanship is surely awe-worthy.
About your sub response, did you ever turn your clip limiter off and try it? I also wanted to suggest using a splitter from your EQ or processor (whichever the last box is in your signal chain before your amp) and using both amp inputs with two cables. Several AVS members have noticed a significantly decreased gain levels, up to 12 db, on channel 2 when using the parallel input method. I'm wondering if one of your sets of IB's is not being fed the same level signal as the other on channel 1. Just a suggestion.
Congratulations on your room!

I cant remember if I changed the clip limiter to off or not, I'll double check. I'll try the splitter, all of the woofers do seem to be working well but I'll give it a try. I certainly do not seem to lack output though.
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