DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap! - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 1555 Old 10-25-2013, 07:17 PM
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rfbrang: I had to lol at your last paragraph. It was like some sort of nightmare grade school math problem.

I think you photos for the 36" x 24" will work out fine, as you are in the similar pixel range that most of us are using for the posters.

The 4' might be a problem, but it depends. If you have a picture that was taken potrait style (camera turned to the side) that might work fine. If you are cropping a landscape style picture, then trying to blow it up to 48" hight, that might not turn out so well.
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post #452 of 1555 Old 10-26-2013, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuaySteve View Post

rfbrang: I had to lol at your last paragraph. It was like some sort of nightmare grade school math problem.
Phew, thought I was the only one. .lol

I was like....

ppt_design_powerpoint_presentation_of_confused_emoticon_templates_1_zps2da13181.jpg
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post #453 of 1555 Old 10-26-2013, 06:48 AM
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Roflmao...sorry, i reread the thread on my 1/2 hr lunch looking for a dpi conversion factor and had to get the post up before I left for the day... I guess I have two questions:

If i sumbit a 300dpi image does it double size?

If not what effect does it have?
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post #454 of 1555 Old 10-26-2013, 12:11 PM
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nickbuol, Thanks! Looks like performance is the one for me! I agree that's too much purple push in the blue.
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post #455 of 1555 Old 10-26-2013, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post

Roflmao...sorry, i reread the thread on my 1/2 hr lunch looking for a dpi conversion factor and had to get the post up before I left for the day... I guess I have two questions:

If i sumbit a 300dpi image does it double size?

If not what effect does it have?

I'm honestly not sure on this one, even though I work in photoshop a lot, but you can have an image that is 24" x 36" at 300dpi, or at 150dpi or 72 dpi (web) and they should all be 24" x 36" in physical size. The higher dpi means more pixels crammed into that area. (better resolution)

I only went with 150dpi as 300 dpi made the file to big for spoonflower
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post #456 of 1555 Old 10-26-2013, 02:09 PM
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I am really excited to make some of these! I just thought I would post these for a laugh. I have made up some movie posters integrating members of my family. This first one is of my wife in the How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days...her favorite movie smile.gif



Here is one of my daughter in the Les Miserables poster



And here is another of my wife in the Hunger Games poster



As you can see I am having way too much fun with this smile.gif I'll post the finished products when I get them done smile.gif
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post #457 of 1555 Old 10-26-2013, 02:31 PM
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jkkwaz, that is a cool idea to integrate your family into the pictures. Most people will just breeze past them, not noticing, but then the observant ones will do a double-take and wonder what's going on. Nice job.
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post #458 of 1555 Old 10-26-2013, 02:32 PM
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Thanks! My goal was to make it subtle and see how long it would take people to notice...
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post #459 of 1555 Old 10-26-2013, 02:54 PM
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That is a very cool idea.
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post #460 of 1555 Old 10-27-2013, 09:09 AM
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I like that. Pretty cool idea. Curious as to how you made it look so seamless. It would help me with my photography editing smile.gif

Just finished cutting my frames and plan to assemble this afternoon/tonight.

@All:

Just wondering if the back of the frame needs to have "breathability" too or can I slap anything on there to hold the insulation in (was thinking of getting some cheap bristol board (it's like construction paper I think))?
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post #461 of 1555 Old 10-27-2013, 11:50 AM
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Probably better guys to answer this but, if they are mounted flush to your wall anyway, then the board won't change anything.

If you were mounting them an inch or 2 off the wall like some of the hard core acoustic panel guys like to recommend then it might not be ideal. If I remember correctly (I may be wrong) the 2 inch air space behind the panel is so that any sound that makes it through the panel is then reflected back off the wall and has to travel through the panel again, giving even better results. In this case, a hard surface on the back might not be ideal.
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post #462 of 1555 Old 10-27-2013, 07:01 PM
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Bristol "board" is kind of like a cardstock paper, right?

As mentioned, if you are putting the frames flush with the wall it won't matter either way. If you plan on an air gap for increased absorption performance, then it will block t the highs for sure, but by the time that they reach the paper, a lot of them will already be absorbed.

If you use an air gap, I would use some super cheap muslin or something. Heck, even a cheap bedsheet set could cover quite a few panel backs and be cheap.

I assume that you want something to hold the insulation in so that fibers don't drift around in the air...
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post #463 of 1555 Old 10-27-2013, 08:23 PM
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I really don't mind either way (gap or no gap).

Yah I want to cover the back to seal/conceal the insulation.

I guess I can try the local dollar store to see what they have in terms of fabric/bed linen.

Finished making the frames tonight though biggrin.gif

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post #464 of 1555 Old 10-27-2013, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcc View Post

I really don't mind either way (gap or no gap).

Yah I want to cover the back to seal/conceal the insulation.

I used the cheapest bed sheet I could find at wal mart... something like $5. One sheet was more than enough to create backings for all 4 posters.

Those frames look great tcc. Nice and square.
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post #465 of 1555 Old 10-27-2013, 08:58 PM
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You will get better acoustical performance with a gap (of course, more insulation is better, but the gap gets you close for less cost). I was going to go with custom ripped 2" frames (custom ripped because no material seems to be 2". Everything is pretty much the standard 2.5, 3.5, etc). Then I opted for using 1"x4" (.75x3.5" actual) aand it gives me a natural 1.5" gap, but the frame hides the air gap. I was afraid that my wife would freak out, but she really didn't. I first put the raw OC703 up on the walls by just hanging the OC703 with the hangers I had for the frames. I then put the OC703 into the frames and put those up. There WAS a noticeable improvement in the mid and lower frequencies. These aren't bass traps, but the clarity in the LFE effects was greatly improved. I wouldn't go back to a no-gap setup because of the improvement.

Now, if you can't do the gap, or it doesn't look right or gain household approval, then don't sweat it. You are missing out somewhat, but too many times people here at AVS make people feel foolish for not going "all out and doing it perfect the first time." You are putting up custom covered acoustical panels! THAT in itself is both cool and a very good sound improvement. Now if you were doing 1", then it would be a different story as 1" doesn't really do much of anything.
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post #466 of 1555 Old 10-28-2013, 03:20 AM
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^^^^

A very interesting point.. I know what my basement could sound like. I ran an audio sweep with just the insulation up (no face) and the room was just "dead". It was crazy weird talking in there. Put the drywall up and it is echo'y again. Amazing what happens when you go from 6-8" of insulation to basically ZERO. I know that what is was before drywall was too much. Just need to find the right balance. Thanks for your post.

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
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post #467 of 1555 Old 10-28-2013, 06:11 AM
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@Trepidati0n
I hear ya. I did some video walkthroughs on my basement finish (which included the theater) and the video before drywall, when I was narrating and then walked into the theater, the difference was crazy on the camcorder, and "deafening" in person. You know, that "I can't hear ANYTHING" strange feeling. That was with the walls and ceiling insulated, and like I said, no drywall.

Then, when I put up the drywall, the MOST echo and nastiness was actually inside the theater. There are posts and Scott Wilkinson's Home Theater Geek videos (Scott is the Director of Content here at AVS) that talk about general numbers to shoot for as that "right balance" of absorption vs. reflection vs. diffusion.

I wrote down some notes from a number of those videos and there is some rough math that works for a good generalization of how much absorption and how much diffusion should be added to a listening space. It is more than a majority of people put into their rooms, but certainly not enough to make it "dead." Now, if I could just find those notes...
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post #468 of 1555 Old 10-28-2013, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuaySteve View Post

I used the cheapest bed sheet I could find at wal mart... something like $5. One sheet was more than enough to create backings for all 4 posters.

Those frames look great tcc. Nice and square.
Thanks for the info.

Hopefully they're square. I had a contraption which was suppose to help in making nice corner joints but it was too cumbersome to use. So I just glued everything by hand and tacked with 2" brad nails.

I'll double check the "squareness" when I get home with a speed square *crossing fingers*.

@nick: yah it's more for aesthetic reasons than functional but wouldn't hurt that it helped somewhat biggrin.gif
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post #469 of 1555 Old 10-29-2013, 12:16 PM
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Any special techniques in stapling the back and making nice folded corners?
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post #470 of 1555 Old 10-29-2013, 06:07 PM
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There is some decent stuff on the first page about making the corners. I had my wife help, but we mostly just fudged it.
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post #471 of 1555 Old 11-01-2013, 09:39 AM
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MuaySteve, Thanks for the info, we will hopefully be able to take a stab at this in the next month or so. I have my wife looking through all our digital pictures to see what she might like. Do you think 35mm film from a Kodak Throw Away is worth the effort to scan for this kind of project? Maybe for a 2'x3' panel?
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post #472 of 1555 Old 11-01-2013, 06:24 PM
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I've seen some scans from negatives that turned out nice... but no idea about 35mm film. Maybe if the pics are grainy you could leave the film edges in the frame to let the viewers know they are looking at images from old film.
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post #473 of 1555 Old 11-01-2013, 08:13 PM
 
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That would make it look cool.
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post #474 of 1555 Old 11-06-2013, 08:27 PM
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Has anyone looked into the Cotton Poplin which is priced between the Kona and the Performance Knit? If you go here http://www.spoonflower.com/spoonflower_fabrics and look at the print between the three. The Poplin looks pretty decent. Especially looking at the black dots on the bird. Just a thought for those not needing the extra width of the Performance Knit.

I got my posters this morning. The Cotton Poplin turned out great! Looks great and very easy to work with. I was going to order a Kona print to compare but they were out so I can't really give opinion on if it is better. All I know is that the print exceeded my expectations. I was worried about the Spider Man poster because it was not as high rez as my other posters but it turned out great. Can not tell a difference in quality between it and the posters that had double the resalution.

I will try to take pictures tomorrow. I just finished building the frames and mounting the fabric. I'm to tired to hang them tonight. Ok, I lied, here is a quick shot of the lowest rez picture I had printed. It's my favorite! The room was dark and this was taken with my phone on default settings so it isn't the best pic. I will try for better pics tomorrow.


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post #475 of 1555 Old 11-06-2013, 08:46 PM
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Very nice Soupy.

Any tricks on how you mounted the fabric without hassle?
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post #476 of 1555 Old 11-06-2013, 09:04 PM
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Very nice Soupy.

Any tricks on how you mounted the fabric without hassle?

I don't know if it was the fabric I went with or the fact I just antisipated it to be a pain. Truth is, it was very simple. I laid a sheet across my very large rectangle dining room table. I then laid the posters upside down and ran the iron over them quickly to get a very flat surface. The poster was pressed nicley against the sheet under it and didn't move unless pulled on. I set the frame ontop lining it up with the edge of print which I could see through upside down. I then just started wrapping from the middles. The corners I just fedge around until the look good. Kind of like wrapping a gift. As long as they are tight and not hanging out they don't have to be perfect. I have not put the insulation it yet, have not got it yet. So what I did was wrap the fabric around the back and stapled inside the frame so no staples are visible (this made it a little harder but it was still a lot easier then I antisipated. I had no problem keeping print straight which I thought I would. I didn't even trim the fabric, but may have to when I put the insulation in.

The frames I just but joined them since you don't see them and they are square. I had HD cut me (12) 24" pieces and (12) 34.5" pieces, after adding the width of the top and bottom they came out to 36". I used glue, corner clamps and brad nails to assemble.

EDIT: I did put one staple in the middle on all 4 sides before I started working my way from the middle. I did each side first then the ends.

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post #477 of 1555 Old 11-06-2013, 09:15 PM
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That's my main concern. Not sure how stretchy the poplin is compared to the performance knit but doing it blindly upside down has me worried about the image distorting.
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post #478 of 1555 Old 11-06-2013, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
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That's my main concern. Not sure how stretchy the poplin is compared to the performance knit but doing it blindly upside down has me worried about the image distorting.

I know what you mean. Once I got the middles stample I was able to flip it back and forth to keep an eye on what I was doing. I did order the little sampler pack and My uneducated opinion is the Performance Knit does look like it may be the hardest fabric to strectch. It does look nice though. The little sample I got sure is stretchy. The Poplin isn't as bright white as the Perforamance Knit or the Koplin but has a nice tecture. Just take your time flipping it back and forth. Actually maybe the stecthyness will make it easier to make small adjustments since it is so stretchable. It is a nice looking fabric!

On a side note. I noticed the 2 organic cottons come in 56" print as they look real nice. I don't remeber their cost but that might be a good alternative for larger prints. The Performance Knit can go 2" larger though with the 58" print.

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post #479 of 1555 Old 11-06-2013, 09:37 PM
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Tcc, Also don't be affraid to pull staples if needed. I did a few times. Actually that was the main reason I wrapped around and stapled inside the frames. I wanted to staple as far back as possiple incase I did screw up in some way I could then move the staples to the back. I didn't have to. Stapels didn't damage the fabric.

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post #480 of 1555 Old 11-06-2013, 11:03 PM
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How about putting glue (spray adhesive) on the front then quickly positioning the poster? Use tacks or weights (spray adhesive works quick, I used it on pool table felt) to hold it untill the glue dries then staple the back . Just an idea.

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