DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap! - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

DJoel, people go with 24"x36" for a lot of their "starting points" as that equates to a decent "movie poster" size.

Keep in mind that if you want to make a real improvement in your room acoustics, you will want decent coverage percentages, thus the reason why people also go with things bigger than 24"x24". Not saying that you can't do that though. I almost did (I wasn't going to go with, and didn't go with, movie posters for are). I was looking for a certain amount of wall coverage to improve my acoustics and ended up with six 24"x48" panels on the side walls (three on each wall) and an even thicker 24" x 48" panel mounted horizontally on my rear wall. At first my wife thought that they were big (so did I in fact), but we like the look now that they are done, and the acoustical improvement is great. I don't remember the exact estimated guidelines for how much wall (plus floor and ceiling) coverage I was shooting for based off of my own room acoustics, but I could have easily had 2 if not 4 more 24" x 48" panels and not be near "too dead" but have a few more reflections tamed. But, we had to draw a line somewhere without having some serious aesthetics issues.

Not saying that everyone has to do that kind of thing, but just be aware that once you put up an acoustical panel or two, you should start to notice a difference, but you can just as easily kill off too much high end and no middle or lower frequencies and not like the new sound too.

I don't mean to scare you, just help you make the best decision you can. It is your space, so you still need to make all of the factors work for you. If going for movie poster size, and knowing and experiencing what I do now, I would go for 24" x 36" with 2" thick acoustical material (Roxul Safe N Sound, OC703, etc) and the same 1.5" air gap behind that. On a 20' long wall, I would put 4 of these on each wall if not even 5. I would still go with a larger horizontally placed rear panel like I have now at 24" x 48" x 5.5" thick (using 4" acoustical insulation). Yes, an even thicker panel would be nice, but with printing limitations, you can't really go any thicker for the panel. If my ceilings were taller (mine are actually less than 8 feet, although they don't feel low in the room) I would put up two "cloud banks" or even flush mounted panels in front of each row of seats. These pieces, in conjunction with my front wall behind my speakers being fully treated including corner bass traps, would yield some great sound just slightly better than what I acoustically have now. I have no regrets though because I have my limits for placement, etc. Look at your space and see what can be done. If you end up with even just 1 panel, I certainly won't say that you are doing it wrong or anything. I will leave that for the acoustic snobs in other forum threads. Here, in this DIY thread, everyone is welcome to experiment and share what works for them.

Best of luck.

Thank you Nick

I love what you guys are doing here sure, extracting all the humdrumness out plain acoustic panel biggrin.gif, I have some of those actually I have 4 behind my seating area to take care any first reflection issues.
I had Jeff Meier do some calibration and he said the back wall was just an echo factory some years ago, and he suggested other location as well but I didn't want the boring ivory/beige panels hanging on my walls. So I've been contemplating something different, the funny thing is I work with fabrics, and have beautiful prints on high end mesh, Yup there is such a thing, " Italian"
The ones I have currently happened to be 24 X 24" but are stacked so their are four behind me for some coverage, which does wonders of killing any muddy sounds in the high range.

I think I want to use the cool African type print in that location, and utilize the Poster types on the front walls, and perhaps sides.

Do you guys think it's better to call SpoonFlower, and speak to someone rather that do it online? I'm concern about the boarder size, and not getting just right.
I don't want loose any of the image on the edges, so I'm hoping they're done quite of number of these, and are familiar with the process?
There's a fabric print shop around the corner from where I work, but I don't trust myself, not them to understand what I'm trying to accomplish here.

Thanks for all you're help, I'll probably PM you asking you a few questions and such if you don't mind.

Dan
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post #722 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soupy1970 View Post

If you go with a smaller poster you can use the Fat Quarter size which is under $10 each. I think it's somewhere around 28 x 18 print for the PK and 27 x 18 for the Silky Faille.

Not following, Fat Quarter? You mean for the boarder ?

I use Silk Faille almost every day, never thought of using it as acoustic panels, who knew biggrin.gif

Is the ( PK) Pique 100% cotton, Silky faille I doubt it's 100% natural, very interesting.. I gotta take a look at what I have in our fabric room.

Thank you very much


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post #723 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

Not following, Fat Quarter? You mean for the boarder ?

I use Silk Faille almost every day, never thought of using it as acoustic panels, who knew biggrin.gif

Is the ( PK) Pique 100% cotton, Silky faille I doubt it's 100% natural, very interesting.. I gotta take a look at what I have in our fabric room.

Thank you very much


Dan

Fat Quarter is just a smaller size option if you don't need a full yard. PK and Silky Faille use the same printing method according to SpoonFlower.

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post #724 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

Not following, Fat Quarter? You mean for the boarder ?

I use Silk Faille almost every day, never thought of using it as acoustic panels, who knew biggrin.gif

Is the ( PK) Pique 100% cotton, Silky faille I doubt it's 100% natural, very interesting.. I gotta take a look at what I have in our fabric room.

Thank you very much


Dan

Here is the one I made for my Ex-Wife for her bar. It was printed on Silky Faille (Fat Quarter). My Camera Phone made it look blurry (maybe due to trying to focus on both posters) but you can still see the color detail. Have not compared side by side with PK but I imagine they are pretty much the same quality. Either fabric will work.

The poster under it is Kona fabric.


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post #725 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 09:17 AM
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By the way Silky Faille & Performance Knit are both 100% Polyester fabric. The are different though as one stretches more etc.

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post #726 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soupy1970 View Post

Fat Quarter is just a smaller size option if you don't need a full yard. PK and Silky Faille use the same printing method according to SpoonFlower.

Oh-kay good to know, will keep that in mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soupy1970 View Post

Here is the one I made for my Ex-Wife for her bar. It was printed on Silky Faille (Fat Quarter). My Camera Phone made it look blurry (maybe due to trying to focus on both posters) but you can still see the color detail. Have not compared side by side with PK but I imagine they are pretty much the same quality. Either fabric will work.

The poster under it is Kona fabric.


I can tell from just from that image the detail is superb, the Kona I suppose is more of poplin as it appears to be a little less lively or is it because of the size resolution, dpi, etc ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soupy1970 View Post

By the way Silky Faille & Performance Knit are both 100% Polyester fabric. The are different though as one stretches more etc.

Yeah knit tend to stretch more because of their construction methods,(more of bistretch) than their woven counter partner.

Thank you for the awesome amount of info.

Dan
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post #727 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

Oh-kay good to know, will keep that in mind.
I can tell from just from that image the detail is superb, the Kona I suppose is more of poplin as it appears to be a little less lively or is it because of the size resolution, dpi, etc ?
Yeah knit tend to stretch more because of their construction methods,(more of bistretch) than their woven counter partner.

Thank you for the awesome amount of info.

Dan

The Kona and Poplin is a duller print. I have used both but if I had to pick between just those two fabrics Poplin would probably be my pick. If someone wants cotton then I would recommend the Organic Cotton Sateen. I have used it also, and I believe it uses the same printing method as PK & SF (dye sublimation). The Cotton Satten didn't print nearly as nice as the Silky Faille though.

Edit: All my prints have been 150dpi.
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post #728 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

and the same 1.5" air gap behind that.

What did you use to get the air gap?
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post #729 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soupy1970 View Post

The Kona and Poplin is a duller print. I have used both but if I had to pick between just those two fabrics Poplin would probably be my pick. If someone wants cotton then I would recommend the Organic Cotton Sateen. I have used it also, and I believe it uses the same printing method as PK & SF (dye sublimation). The Cotton Satten didn't print nearly as nice as the Silky Faille though.

Edit: All my prints have been 150dpi.

Great info, when we use silk faille to print were I work it usually pops right of the fabric, looks very nice. I suppose the Cotton Satten tends to absorb the dye more, it does saturate the fabric as well as the Silky F.

150dpi it is.

Cheers

Dan
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post #730 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 12:30 PM
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It's crazy how much cheaper the Roxul insulation is when you can find it locally instead of ordering it online. I just picked up a 7 pack of 2"x24"x48" Roxul CurtainRock 80 for $45 after taxes. It has the same exact acoustical properties as the RHT 80 that would have cost me about $93.50 shipped from the cheapest place I found online, and this comes with 7 whereas the RHT80 comes in packs of 6.

My spoonflower order should be here tomorrow, then my buddy made me some french cleats. Once I have all of those, I'll be ready to assemble!

Question about cutting the insulation - what do you guys use to cut it to the right sizes?

Also, what kind of adhesive is best to use to make the insulation stick to the wooden frame?
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post #731 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 01:14 PM
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Try an electric turkey knife to cut it.

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post #732 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

Great info, when we use silk faille to print were I work it usually pops right of the fabric, looks very nice. I suppose the Cotton Satten tends to absorb the dye more, it does saturate the fabric as well as the Silky F.

150dpi it is.

Cheers

Dan

I been talking about how well Silky Faille prints for the past month. I imaging the Performance Knit and Silky Faille are about equal print, so it really comes down to which of the two fabrics would be easiest to work with. Mainly which one is easiest to mount and keep everything nice and straight. I thought I would have something to test out by now, but I guess the people who asked if I could make them something, after seeing my others, was all talk.

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post #733 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 03:27 PM
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What did you use to get the air gap?

For my 2" insulation panels, I couldn't find any framing wood that was exactly 2" deep (nature of lumber that a 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5 and a 1x4 is actually .75x3.5) so using 1x4 material, which again is actually .75" thick and 3.5" deep. Thus, once I put a 2" thick piece of OC703 into that 3.5" deep frame, I have 1.5" air gap left behind the insulation. So there is a gap, but you can't see it because the frame is there. I think that it looks a lot cleaner that some of these that are "floating" 2" away from the wall on small wood blocks. For my rear panel, where I used 4" thick OC703, I used 1x6 wood (.75" x 5.5") which gives me another 1.5" air gap. If I had the space, I would go with a 1x8 to bump that to a 3.5" air gap for even more low end absorption.
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Try an electric turkey knife to cut it.

Winner winner, chicken dinner!

Works amazingly well. Mr. Soup is on the mark here.
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post #734 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 04:42 PM
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Hah okay well I don't have a turkey knife so maybe I'll have to pick one up.

My prints from spoonflower are supposed to arrive tomorrow, so if I like how they came out (which I fully expect I will) I may just go buy a table saw so I can make more frames for around the house and my HT, so that I can cut my own wood and make my own french cleats. A table saw should be able to cut this stuff no problem smile.gif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

Thus, once I put a 2" thick piece of OC703 into that 3.5" deep frame, I have 1.5" air gap left behind the insulation. So there is a gap, but you can't see it because the frame is there. I think that it looks a lot cleaner that some of these that are "floating" 2" away from the wall on small wood blocks.

Clever! I think one of the acoustic panel vendors does something very similar.

I'm using canvas stretchers as I have no woodworking ability/inclination. So I'll have to go with the inferior method if I decide to space away from the wall.
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post #736 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 08:39 PM
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Question about cutting the insulation - what do you guys use to cut it to the right sizes?
I used a hack saw since it has fine teeth for smooth cuts biggrin.gif
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post #737 of 1675 Old 01-15-2014, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artur9 View Post

Clever! I think one of the acoustic panel vendors does something very similar.

I'm using canvas stretchers as I have no woodworking ability/inclination. So I'll have to go with the inferior method if I decide to space away from the wall.

French Cleats work and to get the spacing you mount it on the frame and not under it. This will space it whatever thickness you make your French Cleat. Use a small piece of scrap on the bottom just for spacing so the bottom doesn't lean into the wall.

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post #738 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 09:08 AM
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Just a note that when it comes to the fiber/foam, you also have the option of acoustical cotton. It's easy to cut (I did it with a steak knife) and completely safe to handle. With three kids in my house, I didn't want to mess with typical insulation materials.

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post #739 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 10:44 AM
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My prints from spoonflower are sitting on my doorstep. I'm excited to get home after work and the gym and check them out. I had a guy make me french cleats that I should be getting on Saturday in the mail, and then I'll finally be able to assemble these! I'll snap some pics of them with my real camera and upload them too, instead of the normal iPhone pics.

So does anyone recommend anything specific to use to adhere the insulation to the wooden frames? I want to put something around the edges, as well as along the 2 back bars i made on my frames, just to be sure the insulation stays in it's place.
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post #740 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 02:09 PM
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Congrats! Yes, pictures are a must. As for getting the fabric on to the frame, most people stretch the fabric around the back and just staple it. I guess if you didn't have to stretch too much, you could try some strong spray adhesive. Not sure if something like 3M Super 77 spray would be strong enough or not (it IS pretty strong when you follow the directions, and fairly readily found in stores like Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart.

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Does anyone know if the PK material can be used as a speaker grill cover? I have some speakers that I built into the rear wall in my theater and I was going to use GOM but, if I can use the PK to cover my speakers I can make a more uniform look with some movie posters going across about 16 feet. I definitely need some sound baffling as the rear of my theater has an echo. Mostly because of a drop in ceiling height from the front of my room. I could then have some baffling and then hide speakers too and it would have a very clean look.
Any advice is appreciated!
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post #742 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 05:02 PM
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Does anyone know if the PK material can be used as a speaker grill cover? I have some speakers that I built into the rear wall in my theater and I was going to use GOM but, if I can use the PK to cover my speakers I can make a more uniform look with some movie posters going across about 16 feet. I definitely need some sound baffling as the rear of my theater has an echo. Mostly because of a drop in ceiling height from the front of my room. I could then have some baffling and then hide speakers too and it would have a very clean look.
Any advice is appreciated!

I doubt it would block the sound at all, especially not that you could hear.
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post #743 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

Congrats! Yes, pictures are a must. As for getting the fabric on to the frame, most people stretch the fabric around the back and just staple it. I guess if you didn't have to stretch too much, you could try some strong spray adhesive. Not sure if something like 3M Super 77 spray would be strong enough or not (it IS pretty strong when you follow the directions, and fairly readily found in stores like Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart.

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Yeah I'm not talking about getting the fabric to stick, I plan on using a staple gun.

I'm talking about just making sure the insulation stays in it's place so I planned on trying to use some adhesive to get it to stuck in place before I covered it with the fabric.

I'll have pics shortly with my stuff, and I must say I'm SUPER impressed with the prints. I haven't used my camera in months and the batteries are dead so I'm charging one now. The PK is VERY nice material too, however it's definitely stretchier than I expected. You can stretch it like an inch very easily. I just tried on one of the edges, it seems to go right back to form though.

How do you get the wrinkles out too? I thought it would come rolled up not folded, there are definitely some wrinkles.
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post #744 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 06:38 PM
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Here's some pics I just snapped.









The Capitals logo was pretty low resolution, and you can tell if you look at it fairly close, but just in the passing you can't tell at all.

Any suggestions on how to get the wrinkles out? I definitely don't want to screw these up.

I'm seriously VERY impressed with the quality on these. They look better than I anticipated. The PK material is REALLY nice it almost has a glossy look to it. It does stretch quite a bit though, more than I expected it to. But I'll see if it helps at all when putting them up on the frames.

My wife saw them and was also VERY impressed with how they look and can't wait until I finish them. She also now wants me to make some more frames to hang around the house with pictures of us on them heh.
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post #745 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 07:02 PM
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Wrinkles will come out with very minimal stretching when attaching them and about 30 seconds of time from my experience. OK I made up the "30 seconds of time" thing. My wrinkles and waves came out right away when I attached them to my frames.

Very nice looking poster by the way.
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post #746 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
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Wrinkles will come out with very minimal stretching when attaching them and about 30 seconds of time from my experience. OK I made up the "30 seconds of time" thing. My wrinkles and waves came out right away when I attached them to my frames.

Very nice looking poster by the way.

Okay cool. And you said you stretched yours very minimal right? Because I made these 1/4" short on the sides to have to stretch them 1/4", but I feel I could have made them like 1/2" or more and it would have easily stretched that much. But I guess there really is no need for that either huh heh.
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post #747 of 1675 Old 01-16-2014, 09:12 PM
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Yes. Minimal stretch required and it will stay pretty darn straight too of you just take your time when stapling.
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post #748 of 1675 Old 01-18-2014, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Here's some pics I just snapped.









The Capitals logo was pretty low resolution, and you can tell if you look at it fairly close, but just in the passing you can't tell at all.

Any suggestions on how to get the wrinkles out? I definitely don't want to screw these up.  I'm seriously VERY impressed with the quality on these. They look better than I anticipated. The PK material is REALLY nice it almost has a glossy look to it. It does stretch quite a bit though, more than I expected it to. But I'll see if it helps at all when putting them up on the frames.

My wife saw them and was also VERY impressed with how they look and can't wait until I finish them. She also now wants me to make some more frames to hang around the house with pictures of us on them heh.

Superb, can you please post the template? Also please tell us the size,  resolution and fabric.

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post #749 of 1675 Old 01-18-2014, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wse View Post

Superb, can you please post the template? Also please tell us the size,  resolution and fabric.

Hmm not sure exactly what you mean by the template. I didn't really have a template. I just opened the files in photoshop and changed the DPI to 150 and then resized them to the size I needed. And the size just depends on the frames you are making. Then I made a larger file and basically copy/pasted all 6 of them into 1 large file to upload to spoonflower.

And one thing to note - there is actually a pixel size limit with photoshop that it will allow you to save as JPG. Initially I had the file to be exactly 216"x54" @ 150 dpi (since I needed 6 yards) with quite a bit of white space between the images, but photoshop could not save it as a JPG because it was just too large. I then shrunk it down to have minimal white space between them, and it let me save it as a JPG. The JPG is like 38MB I think, the limit on spoonflower is 40MB.

On mine, the actual picture is about 25.5"x 37.5", and then I added about a 3.5" black border around all sides to wrap around the frames and staple to the rear. So with the black borders, they are 32.5"x44.5".

The fabric is the Performance Knit stuff from spoonflower. I showed them to my mom today and she too was VERY impressed with how good they turned out and she can't wait to see them hanging on the wall once they are all done.
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post #750 of 1675 Old 01-18-2014, 02:39 PM
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Thanks so I need to put it on Photoshop? Where do you get the movie posters electronically?

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