DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap! - Page 60 - AVS Forum
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post #1771 of 1796 Old 12-02-2014, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by squiers007 View Post
Side note, @nickbuol I see you are from Marion! I went to school at Cornell and we were always driving into CR and Marion to get out of Mount Vernon. It's a nice little town.
Cool. Small world.

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Originally Posted by SherazNJ View Post
Hi guys,
I have been exploring acoustic room treatments and the more I explore for my options, the more I get confused. So I have been looking into adding diffusers. Seems like there are many types and many companies selling them. But the prices are sky high. Installing 6 diffusers (3 on each side of wall and 2 on rear) seems like a project of like +2,500.00. I can't help to wonder if these are just good plain woods stacked with some space varying in depth (in terms of diffuser that has horizontal lines) or there is something very special about them that make them this expensive?

So far found a few types of Diffusers.
1 - With equal spacing lines varying in depth (2D).
2 - With cubes varying depth.

What is so special about them that make them this pricy?????
Thx
As others mentioned, there is a definite method to the madness of those panels. The thickness of the wood, the width, the spacing, depth from the wall, etc all have some good math behind them that are "tuned" for each room, or should be. Lots of defuser styles besides the "slat" one, or the cube ones that you talk about (I know that they have official terms, but who cares, we know what we are talking about. )

I was at The Savoy The Savoy earlier this year and saw a LOT of DIY treatments, but they were based off of someone taking a lot of audio measurements and calculating and getting plans to him to make them. I think that it cost $700 for full room analysis including the DIY specs and placement of everything. Post 332 in that build thread start to show some of the diagrams that helped him for his exact room.
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post #1772 of 1796 Old 12-05-2014, 02:07 PM
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Okay, I posted my prints a few months ago, finally got the theater to the stage where I can work on these. I did a test run with the first poster to make sure my process was sound. Then off to the shop to make 9 more frames.

3" 1/16 thick slats. Reinforced across the back with 1/8 temper board (recessed into rabbets to keep everything flush), keeps them straight and square and adds a lot of strength. I also picked up a pneumatic stapler- best $30 I've spent. Between these and my bass traps I've gone through over a thousand staples so far.

After the frames are built, I'm running screen material (patio screen- not big screen) across the back to hold the insulation in. Then insulation. Then a bead of hot glue around the edge to keep the insulation from moving around. Then I'm wrapping it in some left over jersey material I had from my bass traps. The insulation puffs out just a hair. I can pull this stuff tight and it's nice and flat. also, keeps me from having to paint the frame.

Then it's on to the poster. I have the remaining 9 frames built today but ran out of time. Hopefully more to come this weekend.
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post #1773 of 1796 Old 12-05-2014, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rprice54 View Post
Okay, I posted my prints a few months ago, finally got the theater to the stage where I can work on these. I did a test run with the first poster to make sure my process was sound. Then off to the shop to make 9 more frames.

3" 1/16 thick slats. Reinforced across the back with 1/8 temper board (recessed into rabbets to keep everything flush), keeps them straight and square and adds a lot of strength. I also picked up a pneumatic stapler- best $30 I've spent. Between these and my bass traps I've gone through over a thousand staples so far.

After the frames are built, I'm running screen material (patio screen- not big screen) across the back to hold the insulation in. Then insulation. Then a bead of hot glue around the edge to keep the insulation from moving around. Then I'm wrapping it in some left over jersey material I had from my bass traps. The insulation puffs out just a hair. I can pull this stuff tight and it's nice and flat. also, keeps me from having to paint the frame.

Then it's on to the poster. I have the remaining 9 frames built today but ran out of time. Hopefully more to come this weekend.
Looking good!
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post #1774 of 1796 Old 12-09-2014, 05:48 PM
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Got a few more done. Slow going. Some of my prints from spoon flower ended up being 1/2" small- the Frodo poster is stretched absolutely to its max. I hope it holds up.
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post #1775 of 1796 Old 12-11-2014, 07:11 AM
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Hey guys, I want to make a couple of these for my theater room and having been scouring this thread. I have seen lots of opinions of the pixel size needed for a picture (sounds like 150dpi is the sweet spot) but have a question of how bad would the quality be if I have an image that doesnt meet that requirement. I need to make one poster longer horizontal and have a large space for it. I have a picture I really want to use but the resolution is only 2880 x 1800 (have scoured posterdb and google to no avail). So my question is, how large can I go to make a good but not great poster with that image? I was also thinking of maybe making two smaller frames with a solid color or something to encapsulate it to make it look larger, any ideas would be welcome =)

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post #1776 of 1796 Old 12-11-2014, 07:49 AM
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This thread is incredible. Took a while, but I read every post. Ha ha. Now I'm ready to start my project (with the help of Nick for some photoshop work).

Thanks to all the contributors, guinea pigs, etc.

By the way - I am NOT a project guy, don't have woodworking tools, and am crazy busy with work, etc, so I opted to buy my frames instead of making them. For those that are interested in doing the same - I bought pre-made stretcher frames from Frame Destination (https://www.framedestination.com). And I got the 3-inch deep frames so I can have 2-inches of insulation and 1-inch of air gap. A single 24x36 is $34.

The nice thing about it is it's pre-made, sturdy enough to mount tight canvas to prevent sagging, and comes with small rounded/raised edges to prevent you from seeing the front of the frame under the fabric.




(Oh, and for those that live in the Dallas area, you can pick them up and save the shipping costs, which is what I'm doing).
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post #1777 of 1796 Old 12-11-2014, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
Hey guys, I want to make a couple of these for my theater room and having been scouring this thread. I have seen lots of opinions of the pixel size needed for a picture (sounds like 150dpi is the sweet spot) but have a question of how bad would the quality be if I have an image that doesnt meet that requirement. I need to make one poster longer horizontal and have a large space for it. I have a picture I really want to use but the resolution is only 2880 x 1800 (have scoured posterdb and google to no avail). So my question is, how large can I go to make a good but not great poster with that image? I was also thinking of maybe making two smaller frames with a solid color or something to encapsulate it to make it look larger, any ideas would be welcome =)

Wall and picture attached
Send me a PM and I can give you my email address to send the file to. I can mess around with it and see how it does.

The 150dpi "sweet spot" is what Spoonflower wants to prevent any resizing within their system, so when I work people's files, I increase or decrease whatever the dpi is to 150dpi. The larger the image size, the lower the DPI can be and it will still work.
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post #1778 of 1796 Old 12-11-2014, 10:41 PM
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Nick, what resolution do you suggest? I want to make 6 of these. Is movieposterdb still the place to go? Then moving over to spoonflower?

These are amazing looking!
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post #1779 of 1796 Old 12-12-2014, 01:39 PM
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Nick, what resolution do you suggest? I want to make 6 of these. Is movieposterdb still the place to go? Then moving over to spoonflower?

These are amazing looking!
Google images is a great place to look as well.

Pretty much the largest you can find. If the files are 300dpi, then something at least 8.5" x 10" is helpful as that basically doubles to 17" x 20" which looks OK since it is getting printed on fabric.
If you have 150dpi, then the image needs to be larger for satisfying results. I've dealt with quite a few "small" images and people like them in the end, but the more you have to blow up an image, the more data is "created" and the created data is mostly just averages of the data around it, thus things get "blurry."
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post #1780 of 1796 Old 12-12-2014, 05:05 PM
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Firepr00f's posters are done, 3 other PM requests responded to.
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post #1781 of 1796 Old 12-12-2014, 08:43 PM
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Just finished up a couple of sweet images. Pacific Rim and TRON Legacy. Had to edit out some text from the Pacific Rim one, which means removing the text area, and recreating what looked like it was there. I've done this for a few others in the past. It takes a bit of time, but the end result if nice and clean, especially when the image has little or no other text on it.
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post #1782 of 1796 Old 12-12-2014, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Just finished up a couple of sweet images. Pacific Rim and TRON Legacy. Had to edit out some text from the Pacific Rim one, which means removing the text area, and recreating what looked like it was there. I've done this for a few others in the past. It takes a bit of time, but the end result if nice and clean, especially when the image has little or no other text on it.
It wasn't for me but you are the man for offering that free service!
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post #1783 of 1796 Old 12-12-2014, 08:56 PM
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Got a few more done. Slow going. Some of my prints from spoon flower ended up being 1/2" small- the Frodo poster is stretched absolutely to its max. I hope it holds up.

those look amazing
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post #1784 of 1796 Old 12-12-2014, 10:20 PM
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those look amazing
Thanks. I'm very happy with them. The flash washes them out a bit. They look even better in person.

I've decided I want to do something over my bass traps, just haven't decided what yet. Right now they just have black fabric over super chunks in the corners.

Hoping to finish the rest next week after working all weekend.
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post #1785 of 1796 Old 12-13-2014, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Just finished up a couple of sweet images. Pacific Rim and TRON Legacy. Had to edit out some text from the Pacific Rim one, which means removing the text area, and recreating what looked like it was there. I've done this for a few others in the past. It takes a bit of time, but the end result if nice and clean, especially when the image has little or no other text on it.
These were for me, super big thanks to Nick for helping me out! I will post them up when they are done in a couple weeks =)
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post #1786 of 1796 Old 12-14-2014, 03:39 PM
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Firepr00f's posters are done, 3 other PM requests responded to.
And not to set expectations, for turn around time going forward, lol, but Nick was super responsive and did great work! Pretty incredible for free. 😊

My posters are ordered and I should receive them by Dec. 23rd. Then I'll use the Christmas break to assemble everything. I'll post pictures when done. 😊

Thanks again Nick!
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post #1787 of 1796 Old 12-14-2014, 09:38 PM
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your printer didn't have problems printing copyrighted material?
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post #1788 of 1796 Old Today, 08:43 AM
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My prints came in, getting the wrinkles out. Is there any way to make sure this is Silky Faille? I tried blowing through it and it didnt seem to pass much air??
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post #1789 of 1796 Old Today, 10:17 AM
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My prints came in, getting the wrinkles out. Is there any way to make sure this is Silky Faille? I tried blowing through it and it didnt seem to pass much air??
Yup, that is Silky Faille...

Wrinkled and poor air passage...

They still work well enough for our needs.

The low air passage, slightly inaccurate colors, and wrinkle removal concerns (which can be overcome with steam or wrinkle release) were reasons I went with Performance Knit. I wanted the best acoustical fabric (our human ears probably can't tell the difference though), and needed colors that would match other colors (like wall paint, star ceiling paint, etc) in my room.
I dealt with the slightly extra work of the stretchiness of the PK to get the acoustical performance and colors. The PK is easier to straighten or adjust than the SF, but the SF should remain more straight to begin with.

Pros and cons to both. Buried in this thread I've done extensive write ups about them both and the testing that was completed. People have success with both, so I don't get too excited about offering other insight/perspectives. Just seems to muddy the waters and make people second-guess themselves. Interestingly, those tests showed that from an airflow (theoretical acoustical transparency), the best is Performance Knit, then the original Kona Cotton (what they used to use at the beginning of this thread, but colors are washed out), and the worst is Silky Faille. I made a joking comment that if I was being held captive by kidnappers, I would want the PK over my mouth to be comfortable, the Kona if they want to prevent me from easily breathing, and the SF if they want me to pass out. Again, that said, for acoustical panels, other tests were done to show that the SF did fine for allowing absorption. I wouldn't want to use it as an acoustically transparent screen or something where you need to pass as much through it as possible, but it did "ok."

Use some steam/wrinkle release spray on the SF, get another set of hands to help stretch and hold it while you staple, and you will be fine. (Trying to be reassuring, but I know sometimes I fail.)
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post #1790 of 1796 Old Today, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Yup, that is Silky Faille...

Wrinkled and poor air passage...

They still work well enough for our needs.

The low air passage, slightly inaccurate colors, and wrinkle removal concerns (which can be overcome with steam or wrinkle release) were reasons I went with Performance Knit. I wanted the best acoustical fabric (our human ears probably can't tell the difference though), and needed colors that would match other colors (like wall paint, star ceiling paint, etc) in my room.
I dealt with the slightly extra work of the stretchiness of the PK to get the acoustical performance and colors. The PK is easier to straighten or adjust than the SF, but the SF should remain more straight to begin with.

Pros and cons to both. Buried in this thread I've done extensive write ups about them both and the testing that was completed. People have success with both, so I don't get too excited about offering other insight/perspectives. Just seems to muddy the waters and make people second-guess themselves. Interestingly, those tests showed that from an airflow (theoretical acoustical transparency), the best is Performance Knit, then the original Kona Cotton (what they used to use at the beginning of this thread, but colors are washed out), and the worst is Silky Faille. I made a joking comment that if I was being held captive by kidnappers, I would want the PK over my mouth to be comfortable, the Kona if they want to prevent me from easily breathing, and the SF if they want me to pass out. Again, that said, for acoustical panels, other tests were done to show that the SF did fine for allowing absorption. I wouldn't want to use it as an acoustically transparent screen or something where you need to pass as much through it as possible, but it did "ok."

Use some steam/wrinkle release spray on the SF, get another set of hands to help stretch and hold it while you staple, and you will be fine. (Trying to be reassuring, but I know sometimes I fail.)
Well crud I would have gone with Performance Knit if I had known :/ I read there wasnt much of a difference when I was researching. I threw it in the dryer on the wrinkle release setting for 5 min on low heat and most of the wrinkles are out. I figure anything left will come out when I stretch it and shoot it with wrinkle release spray. Any advice on stretching? Start with one side using clips and doing each side then stapling maybe?
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post #1791 of 1796 Old Today, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
Well crud I would have gone with Performance Knit if I had known :/ I read there wasnt much of a difference when I was researching. I threw it in the dryer on the wrinkle release setting for 5 min on low heat and most of the wrinkles are out. I figure anything left will come out when I stretch it and shoot it with wrinkle release spray. Any advice on stretching? Start with one side using clips and doing each side then stapling maybe?
Nickbuol has been a fantastic resource and he compared both and picked Performance Knit. I compared both in my hands and chose Silky Faile. For our purposes, either works. I started in the center on each side and spread out to the corners and then top and bottom.
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post #1792 of 1796 Old Today, 01:03 PM
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Just like dgage said (or do a Google or YouTube search for stretching (or stapling) canvas. You will find a lot of tips.) The general idea is to start in the middle of one side, staple it, go to opposite side, stretch a bit and staple it, then do the other two sides. One or two staples in the middle of the length of wood. From there, take your time and add a staple (or two if you are feeling lucky) to each side of the center staples for one side, then repeat for the opposite side, and then the other 2 sides. Slowly work your way around from the middle to the edges. Leave a little bit away from the corner, and make a nice folded corner with the fabric before stapling it down. Trim away any access.
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post #1793 of 1796 Old Today, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Just like dgage said (or do a Google or YouTube search for stretching (or stapling) canvas. You will find a lot of tips.) The general idea is to start in the middle of one side, staple it, go to opposite side, stretch a bit and staple it, then do the other two sides. One or two staples in the middle of the length of wood. From there, take your time and add a staple (or two if you are feeling lucky) to each side of the center staples for one side, then repeat for the opposite side, and then the other 2 sides. Slowly work your way around from the middle to the edges. Leave a little bit away from the corner, and make a nice folded corner with the fabric before stapling it down. Trim away any access.
Ok thanks!
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post #1794 of 1796 Old Today, 03:29 PM
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One word of caution on the wrinkle release. I know it is too late for grendelrt, but I would NOT put any of this fabric in the dryer. We have a pretty nice dryer, but it still can shrink fabric, even on its lowest setting, also you can dull the image from the tumbling.

If going with Silky Faille, I would lay it flat on a table, spritz it (don't soak it too much) with wrinkle release, and lightly pull it flat. Let the moisture, gravity, and the fact that it is on a flat table do its work. Let it dry on its own. Reapply maybe 1 more time if needed. Then, if most of the wrinkles are gone, put it on the frame nice and snug, but not so tight as to bend the frame. Once attached, spray any remaining wrinkles again and let them settle out.

Not an issue for Performance Knit normally, but if someone had a really bad crease from shipping, mount the fabric, and spritz it once it is on the frame. No laying it on a table and pre-spraying it.
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post #1795 of 1796 Unread Today, 05:22 PM
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Yeah i did dryer on lowest setting and on the wrinkle release setting for about 5 min. I havent seen any negative affects but thats probably some good advice :O I still had some slight creases that I am going to use wrinkle release spray to remove. Should have a picture to post up later tonight of at least one done.
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post #1796 of 1796 Unread Today, 06:07 PM
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I just ironed on a low setting without issues


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