DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap! - Page 76 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2251 of 2874 Old 03-06-2016, 02:42 PM
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Going thru my existing astrophotography portfolio, I did not have any suitable "tall" images to use, as most of mine are "wide", so gave up and looked for other sources of inspiration.

Tried to find good quality Saturn V rocket launch from Apollo missions and Space Shuttle launch, gave up.....
I was on the NASA site for a over 1 hour, and other sites, and just did not like the detail quality of the images I saw for the Saturn V specifically, there were some really good ones of the Space Shuttle launch's.

Instead for the last two decided to do 2 movie posters from 2 classics that arguably changed my life when I saw both of them in the cinema in 1977 and 1982, order placed 2 hours ago .
.

and using the basic PSE9 transform "skew" function was able to do a better job simulating what they will look like on the 2nd row left wall rear 2 acoustic panels.


So like others here, now it's the waiting game for me, hopefully 2 weekends from now the orders will be here and I'll put them onto my OC703, the pine border will still be visible as is.

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post #2252 of 2874 Old 03-06-2016, 06:16 PM
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Why not modify the movie posters to look like they were designed for the taller acoustical panels?
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post #2253 of 2874 Old 03-07-2016, 01:06 AM
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Nick - The poster images I "found" had aspect ratio that matched perfectly to 24" wide x 36" tall, I'm guessing that is industry std (the ratio)? I honestly don't know.

My OC703 is 24" wide x 48" tall - the usual std, but when I router 1/4" off the inside of the 1 x 4 pine (my method, I like the pine to "grab" the OC703) that leaves 23 1/2" x 47 1/2" visual viewing area.
So, I scaled mine to be 22 1/2 wide, giving a 1/2 " border on the width.

I did not want to mess with "stretching" the posters, nor change their original intended look, so just added more border above/below.
I've not read thru the so many pages here to see what others did, if there is a more aesthetic solution....it's too late I sent them to print already.
I've made this template as a layer, align the image to it, match border (the background layer in PSE9) to the color of the poster border, then delete that red grid upon final save, flatten the image, save as TIFF or PNG (some are close to 40MB).


Since I wrap my OC703 and simply pin the backside, I do not want to spend extra $21/panel for 100% back coverage, so I'll just use some of my leftover speaker grille cloth already used and cut it to give 100% OC703 fiber rear coverage.
If making lots of these from scratch I probably would print 2 on 3 yards, that would allow excess for 100% back coverage. That's how it worked out when I did them with speaker grille cloth.

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post #2254 of 2874 Old 03-07-2016, 07:53 AM
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are those doubling up on the rockwool?

I thought the original spec was for a 1" deep frame?
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post #2255 of 2874 Old 03-07-2016, 08:42 AM
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I use 2" thick OC703 with 2" air gap, less than that and you are band passing the frequency absorption.

Frame size depth, my frame goes outside my panels, as I like the knotty pine aesthetic's. Others use a frame to give air gap to the wall and attach the panel to room side and totally wrap everything.


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post #2256 of 2874 Old 03-07-2016, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
Nick - The poster images I "found" had aspect ratio that matched perfectly to 24" wide x 36" tall, I'm guessing that is industry std (the ratio)? I honestly don't know.
You are correct. 24" x 36" is really close to pretty much all modern movie posters (really all movie posters but some really old ones, or a few random new ones).

I was just saying that Photoshop could be your friend to convert those into 24" x 48". Sure, they would take a bit of work (one of my least favorite jobs is when people want 24" x 36" images turned into 24" x 48" and have them still look like they could have been original poster images (you have to crop the sides, many times manually add to the top and bottom, and then adjust the text/logos to fit so that you aren't just "stretching" the image).

Anyway, it would probably look nicer in the end, but yes it is a bit of work.

OR find some "textless" poster images, and just crop them to 24" x 48". Then you don't have to worry about the words at all. Blu-ray.com has a few forums where people post a bunch of textless movie posters.
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post #2257 of 2874 Old 03-08-2016, 11:37 AM
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DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap!

It may be just me, but I honestly liked seeing the posters with the bottom text there. Actors names, directors, sound, etc. Kinda shows respect to those that brought that movie to reality.

I'll try them as is, if they look just "not right" I can splurge another $44 in future and adjust like you mentioned.


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post #2258 of 2874 Old 03-08-2016, 12:09 PM
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Agreed. Nothing wrong with leaving the words there in my opinion either. I just mentioned it as a quick way for you to turn a 24" x 36" poster into a 24" x 48" image (note the difference between "poster" and "image")...
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post #2259 of 2874 Old 03-08-2016, 01:59 PM
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I don't understand the objection to photography from the 60's being used due to quality concerns (provided the images themselves are of decent resolution) and instead putting a specifically sized poster in an irregular sized frame. The aesthetic looks terrible to my eye.

FWIW I've up-scaled some images that were lower in quality than I'd have preferred to use and the prints at 27x40 have come out looking GORGEOUS. Like Struzan himself had been there painting them in person. Sometimes people get caught up in the super fine details you can only zoom into on a PC screen and forget what the final result is actually going to be like.
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post #2260 of 2874 Old 03-08-2016, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batiatus Rules View Post
I don't understand the objection to photography from the 60's being used due to quality concerns (provided the images themselves are of decent resolution) and instead putting a specifically sized poster in an irregular sized frame. The aesthetic looks terrible to my eye.

FWIW I've up-scaled some images that were lower in quality than I'd have preferred to use and the prints at 27x40 have come out looking GORGEOUS. Like Struzan himself had been there painting them in person. Sometimes people get caught up in the super fine details you can only zoom into on a PC screen and forget what the final result is actually going to be like.
Who doesn't like photography from the 60's?

Personally, with all of the images that I've done, some of the most interesting ones are really old most posters, or even themes that have sometimes little to nothing to do with movies. Those are really cool to work with people's visions to create something awesome.

I too have told many people that when printing on fabric, it is more forgiving than if you were printing on, say, photo paper. I've still had some people complain that the images "weren't crisp enough" when they gave me junk to begin with. I tell them to get just 1 printed if they are worried, and see how it turns out... Funny... I never hear any more from those people until after ALL of the panels are up, they look good, and they are showing them off. Heck, there is someone who wanted images of a particular sports team, and they were VERY skeptical. I spent a LOT of time cleaning those images up under the promise that they would pay me once they got them printed, and only if they turned out OK. Well, I saw a "sneak peek" recently and they look really cool, but still no payment. Not sure if they are embarrassed about being wrong, just don't care for other people's time/effort, or both. Personally I am not going to make them feel bad or anything, I just want to see the complete finished product, even though it was a lot of hand drawing (original images were around 80kb) to make them look really great at 24" x 42" (all under the premise that they would pay me for my time) I feel a little "cheated."

Anyway, they don't have to be "perfect" by any means. I always make things better quality than what is required for the panel images and encourage others that was to make them themselves to do the same, but the fabric is really forgiving.
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post #2261 of 2874 Old 03-08-2016, 10:35 PM
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I'm ready to make panels, and I have been scouring the 'net for images. Like, for weeks. I have a theme in mind, from a popular movie series . And I have 12 pieces of 2" thick, 2'x4' OC703 ready in the garage. So, 12 panels. These will go on side walls to tackle first reflection points, which I have marked. 6 panels per wall. I'll do ceiling and back wall at a later time.

My problem is... with few exceptions, the images I like are nearly always in landscape orientation, not portrait.

Instead of 6 panels arranged on the wall like this (6 vertical panels):
------------ ------------ ------------ ------------ ------------ ------------
|//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////| |//////////|
------------ ------------ ------------ ------------ ------------ ------------

Mine might be more like this (horizontal panels, in a grid of 2 rows, 3 columns):
------------------------- -------------------------- --------------------------
|///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |////////////////////////|
|///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |////////////////////////|
|///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |////////////////////////|
------------------------- -------------------------- --------------------------
------------------------- -------------------------- --------------------------
|///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |////////////////////////|
|///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |////////////////////////|
|///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |////////////////////////|
------------------------- -------------------------- --------------------------

Or maybe, like this, if I find a few more portrait-oriented images (one vertical panel on each end, and in the middle, horizontal panels in a grid of 2 rows by 2 columns):
------------ ------------------------- -------------------------- ------------
|//////////| |///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |//////////|
|//////////| ------------------------- -------------------------- |//////////|
|//////////| ------------------------- -------------------------- |//////////|
|//////////| |///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |//////////|
|//////////| |///////////////////////| |////////////////////////| |//////////|
------------ ------------------------- -------------------------- ------------

Without seeing the images, anybody have strong opinions on this?

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post #2262 of 2874 Old 03-08-2016, 10:48 PM
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Well, those didn't show up so well, so I am just making assumptions.

There are a number of rooms in the world that focus on a more narrow band near ear height all the way down the sides of the walls. Now, I have no idea if this is a good or bad idea, but it sounds more in line with what you are looking at.

To stop those reflection points, you need to look at the speaker locations in relationship to your ears... I know, I know, you know this already. But while most people focus just on the spot on a wall where the sound would reflect from as it relates to "front to back" of the room, you also need to factor in where that will be in regards to height on your wall. If you can pinpoint that spot, and if everyone sits at the same "ear height," then in theory you could center the panels (2 feet tall, 4 feet wide) on those points and still get really good coverage.

Again, I could be completely off on this, but if a "tall" panel is only 2 feet wide and can account for your head being in an upright/leaned back/etc position front to back, why wouldn't it work for different heights of people too?

A benefit of making a "stripe" down each side wall is that you would, in theory, get the reflection points for all of the front speakers no matter where you sit (give or take a little gap here and there).

Even if you didn't tackle first reflection points (which you should since they are possibly the biggest bang for your buck improvement), just reducing room echo will be helpful regardless of panel placement and orientation.
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post #2263 of 2874 Old 03-08-2016, 11:13 PM
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While I agree with everything Nick says, there is such a thing as too much absorption. Nick said it well in terms on knocking down the echoes but you don't want to go so far as to have a dead room. So if you find you need less absorption, something like this is definitely an option between your posters and the insulation.

http://www.kineticsnoise.com/interiors/tad.html

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post #2264 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 02:46 AM
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DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap!

Using absorption for acoustic treatments is not rocket science, but one should not over absorb either.
Having sonic energy in a room is a good thing, it gives ambience and spaciousness feeling.
Apply where needed, not where not.
Apply thick enough to not band pass the frequency.
Using mirrors to ID location of 1st reflections, or Ray tracing software gives some idea where to place, or best is gated ETC charts to truly identity placement needs.




My room is 14ft6in wide X 18ft6in long X 9 ft tall .

2 rows of 4 seats each, I have 11.2 setup, so my strategy took that into account.

Simplistically, I used (4) 2ft wide X 4ft tall 2" deep with 2" air gap for right and left side, (1) 2ft tall X 4 ft wide for rear wall. (9) 2ft X 4ft panels for side and back wall.

My intuition is ND23 may be over absorbing the room and it might sound too dead with 6 panels per wall.
Need his room / speaker layout, seating.

Fwiw, here is mine.

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post #2265 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 05:46 AM
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Hey all, I haven't read through all the posts at this time, but wonder if you could provide a quick opinion on screen shots from a camera. I snapped these of my screen and do see the limits in clarity. But, would these be usable from fairly small posters?
They were taken with my Note 3 (13 mega pixels), hand held.




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post #2266 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 07:05 AM
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Thanks all for the feedback. I have done the mirror trick to identify the first reflection points on the side walls, so I basically have a 10' long stripe to kill. 5 side-by-side vertical panels on the wall would do the trick (5 x 2' width each = 10' overall width). While considering horizontal panels, I made an assumption that I still needed to have 4' tall coverage, so I would stack (2) 2' tall horizontal panels, one above the other, and 3 of these stacks would be 6 panels, with 12' of coverage width (slightly more than I need).

Perhaps I only need a single row of 2' tall horizontal panels to cover that 10' stripe of tape marks for the side wall first reflection points.

I didn't want to turn the thread into another acoustical treatments science discussion, I was just asking about aesthetics, and opinions, on non-vertical panels.
My room is 12'3" wide, 18'2" deep, with an 8'9" ceiling in the middle of the room, but 7'9" at each wall (a 12" tall soffit circles the room).
Two rows of 3 chairs, back row on 11" riser. Front row ears are 11'9" from front wall. Back row ears are 16'11" from front wall.
Front soundstage is Polk Audio TSi400 L/R and CS20 center. Center speaker sits on a 23" tall speaker stand.
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post #2267 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
While I agree with everything Nick says, there is such a thing as too much absorption. Nick said it well in terms on knocking down the echoes but you don't want to go so far as to have a dead room. So if you find you need less absorption, something like this is definitely an option between your posters and the insulation.

http://www.kineticsnoise.com/interiors/tad.html
Never said that there wasn't, but glad that you added some clarity. Thanks...

We are talking 6 panels. That won't be too much, but yes, if you go complete nuts-o in the room, it will be too dead.

20% is the general rule including all wall surfaces. Then again, we aren't even touching diffusion or reflection (non-treated)...

I was just answering the orientation question, but again, thanks for helping to clarify.

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post #2268 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 01:41 PM
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Hey all, I haven't read through all the posts at this time, but wonder if you could provide a quick opinion on screen shots from a camera. I snapped these of my screen and do see the limits in clarity. But, would these be usable from fairly small posters?
They were taken with my Note 3 (13 mega pixels), hand held.


Please no! If you are using any sort of PC to playback a 1080p file the media player you are using should have a screencap function. VLC does for sure (you just need to look up the hot key). At the very least, use actual screen caps. A photo of your screen is just... NO!

Then make sure you use a good photo editor, free or not, to upscle the image to the proper size you need with required border type. Or request someone with time to help you prep your images for upload.

But again do NOT even try to take a picture of your PC and then hang that on your wall. That's beyond ghetto!!!
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post #2269 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Batiatus Rules View Post


Please no! If you are using any sort of PC to playback a 1080p file the media player you are using should have a screencap function. VLC does for sure (you just need to look up the hot key). At the very least, use actual screen caps. A photo of your screen is just... NO!

Then make sure you use a good photo editor, free or not, to upscle the image to the proper size you need with required border type. Or request someone with time to help you prep your images for upload.

But again do NOT even try to take a picture of your PC and then hang that on your wall. That's beyond ghetto!!!
That's great. Love the reaction, and did expect it. Unfortunately, I don't think my new laptop can display bluray. Darn. It's only got a dvd burner. I'll have to Michael Scott, see if he takes orders. ..

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post #2270 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 04:07 PM
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Maybe ask someone who has Pixels to get a screenshot.
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post #2271 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 09:43 PM
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That's great. Love the reaction, and did expect it. Unfortunately, I don't think my new laptop can display bluray. Darn. It's only got a dvd burner. I'll have to Michael Scott, see if he takes orders. ..

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Download a 1080p rip and take a screenshot. But for the love of Jeebus DO NOT take a picture of your TV with your phone and then try to hang it on the wall. It will look like trash.



This took a 3 second Google search.
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post #2272 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 09:48 PM
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Never said that there wasn't, but glad that you added some clarity. Thanks...

We are talking 6 panels. That won't be too much, but yes, if you go complete nuts-o in the room, it will be too dead.

20% is the general rule including all wall surfaces. Then again, we aren't even touching diffusion or reflection (non-treated)...

I was just answering the orientation question, but again, thanks for helping to clarify.
We're on the same page as usual Nick. These 6 panels are pretty dense in terms of local coverage and with his mention of doing the ceiling and back walls at a later, I just wanted to make sure he didn't think treating a room meant putting absorbing posters everywhere. And since many new people jump into this (your ) thread because it is so valuable, it is good to have a reminder of that as we talk so much about absorption panels in this thread.
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post #2273 of 2874 Old 03-09-2016, 10:03 PM
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We're on the same page as usual Nick. These 6 panels are pretty dense in terms of local coverage and with his mention of doing the ceiling and back walls at a later, I just wanted to make sure he didn't think treating a room meant putting absorbing posters everywhere. And since many new people jump into this (your ) thread because it is so valuable, it is good to have a reminder of that as we talk so much about absorption panels in this thread.
As a guy that I went to lunch with today said after I picked up the bill, "Thanks brotha."

Yeah people forget that there are a lot of absorptive elements to many rooms... Carpet with a thick pad does some higher freq absorption, pillows, blankets, heck even seating can provide absorption. Going bat-nuts with absorption will have people feeling like they are in an anechoic chamber, and that isn't any fun.

My room has the front wall treated with basically that "recycled denim" insulation on almost the entire wall, floor to ceiling bass traps in the side corners, six 24" x 48" x 3.5" thick virtical panels on the side walls (3 per wall), and a single 24" x 48" x 5.5" horizontally on the rear wall. It sounds really quite good. I am going to add 2 more panels to the side walls, but am not sure if they will have any treatment behind them as I don't want to over-absorb the audio, but plans for DIY diffusion panels that work within a 3.5" space are hard to come by, and I am not sure how well they would actually work being that small "thickness wise." The reason for the 2 additional panels is to make things a bit more aesthetic looking in the room since I am going to need to move the panels anyway as my FRPs changed when I relocated my false wall and front speakers. It actually allows me to line things up with the wall sconce lighting, and then my primary FRP panel up front gets bumped back about 9".

At the same time, I am thinking about putting a night sky image over my fiber optic DIY star "panel" overhead. It is 48" x 96" (4ft x 8ft), but I am not sure if the fiber optics will show up well enough through the fabric, and I am not keen on the idea of poking holes in the fabric. I may need to experiment with all of Spoonflower's fabrics since it doesn't need to be acoustical...
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post #2274 of 2874 Old 03-10-2016, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Batiatus Rules View Post
Download a 1080p rip and take a screenshot. But for the love of Jeebus DO NOT take a picture of your TV with your phone and then try to hang it on the wall. It will look like trash.



This took a 3 second Google search.
I am humbled. Thank you. Now, I've got to go to the library to research what the Google is...

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post #2275 of 2874 Old 03-10-2016, 05:45 PM
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@nickbuol

Do you have any pics of your room?


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post #2276 of 2874 Old 03-11-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
^^^classic sci fi rules great choices


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Thanks!

They came in today, (good turnaround time), and they look awesome!

Question how do people remove the wrinkles? Wrinkle remover, wash and dry or iron, (fabric is Silky Faille)?

Cheers!
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post #2277 of 2874 Old 03-11-2016, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by the3dwizard View Post
Thanks!



They came in today, (good turnaround time), and they look awesome!



Question how do people remove the wrinkles? Wrinkle remover, wash and dry or iron, (fabric is Silky Faille)?



Cheers!

I ironed my SF with no problems


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post #2278 of 2874 Old 03-12-2016, 09:28 PM
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Some guys jumped on to mtbdudex's facebook post about his panels telling people that it is OK not to cover the pack of the panels as in some places in the US they apparently are installing HVAC duct with some form of rigid insulation (search fiberglass ductboard) and if you are already breathing that into your lungs that clearly a panel that sits stationary on your wall won't be a problem.

Well, there are a LOT of people that believe that the fiberglass ductboard is bad for you too, but some of the people on Facebook think that since it is legal, it must be OK, right? There are a few discussions on InspectorsJournal.com where a large number of inspectors across the country chime in about how they can't believe that the stuff is legal. Similar conversations at HVAC-talk.com... And those were just 2 results from a quick Google search. Fiberglass is bad for you, and just because you may have some of that in your "legal" ductwork in your home, doesn't mean that you shouldn't care about it. And that is ductwork insulation that is many times sprayed (black) on the surface, to lock in any residual dust and fibers, and yet some people think that uncoated rigid insulation is the same or not a concern because it is stationary.

Anyway, back to this thread. It will cost you maybe $1 per panel, if that, to just cover the back with the cheapest fabric possible. Not only will it be acoustically transparent, but it will also hold the fiberglass dust and loose fibers in place. Just tonight I decided to take one of my panels down and unstapled the back fabric along the bottom of the frame. These panels have pretty much stayed in place for the past couple of years. I found quite a good amount of insulation dust, and just a few fibers. I did not "tap" the panel on the ground, or do anything to disturb the insulation. So that proves that the fiberglass dust and some fibers are there, even without moving things around.

So again, why risk it. Spend a couple of bucks, literally, and protect you and your family's lungs.

Not sure if any of those people will find their way over here, but hopefully the above makes sense either way. Nobody is forcing anyone to take this extra and inexpensive step of precaution, but when someone tries to discount it as stupid (pretty much the way one guy was going on and on) it is irresponsible.
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post #2279 of 2874 Old 03-13-2016, 11:43 AM
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Wish I could like your post 100 times. Great point!
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post #2280 of 2874 Old 03-13-2016, 01:51 PM
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DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap!

Nick I actually missed that Facebook reply as it was buried in a offshoot reply not the main reply ...

My story: in high school, 1979, as a part time job I worked at commercial construction job on weekends, and installed insulation overhead. Yep, youngest guy on the crew got the ***** job. Back then pink fluffy was not around, we used yellow fluffy. Gosh I hated that so much it was itchy and got into your skin pores. Sure, we wore masks, gloves, and glasses and fully covered arms/head, but still afterwards next 2-3 days the worst.

So, this OC703 is compressed yellow fluffy, and those fibers itch just as much. Takes just 2 minutes to give a layer of protection.
Nuff said.


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