The Timelapse Theatre - Planning n' Build Log - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 1287 Old 07-01-2011, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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That looks pretty cool. The only thing that I don't like about it is the fact that it only waves in one dimension. I'd like to have mine wave in two but that complicates things quite a bit.
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post #32 of 1287 Old 07-03-2011, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, fellas. I'm committed now. I just bought a new saw blade for my mitre saw. :-)

I'm hoping to begin building the stage next weekend and I have a question that I haven't been able to answer adequately by searching.

How should the stage framing be coupled/attached/interfaced with the subfloor/concrete in this basement theatre? Simply laying on top? Rubber underneath the framing members?

Thanks!
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post #33 of 1287 Old 07-03-2011, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

OK, fellas. I'm committed now. I just bought a new saw blade for my mitre saw. :-)

I'm hoping to begin building the stage next weekend and I have a question that I haven't been able to answer adequately by searching.

How should the stage framing be coupled/attached/interfaced with the subfloor/concrete in this basement theatre? Simply laying on top? Rubber underneath the framing members?

Thanks!

If you use treated lumber you could just rest it on top. I used non-treated and put down a layer of #30 roofing felt on the concrete. The stage should be detached from the walls -- leave a 1/4" to 1/2" gap all around. If you are going to fill the stage with sand there is no need to anchor it since the sand will hold it in place. I built my riser in a similar way but because it was not sand filled I did anchor each corner to the concrete with a large tapcon. This was also a precaution against the green lumber from warping.

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post #34 of 1287 Old 07-04-2011, 06:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Am I going to regret stuffing the right channel speaker into the corner like this?

Should I revisit the AT screen idea instead? How does the AT quality of DaLite and Stewart hold up compared to Seymour or SMX or others? I know this is probably a better question for the screens forum but I thought that I'd ask about the placement question here. I have a unique advantage in that I can buy DaLite and Stewart at cost through my company... I've heard great things about the Seymour product but I can't get it for such a screaming deal!
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post #35 of 1287 Old 07-04-2011, 06:20 AM
 
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As long as you have the min space the manufacturer recommends, it is no problem. I would angle the speakers towards the listening area, though.

The nice thing about doing it without the false wall first is that you can always build one later if need be. I would buy an AT screen at the get go, that way if you decide to bump out the front wall a few feet and put the speakers behind it you can do so.
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post #36 of 1287 Old 07-06-2011, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Huzzah! I found a good deal on some Meridian speakers on audiogon and now have a DSP 5000c and another pair of DSP 5000 towers (rears) coming my way!

I think that I'll prewire for 7.1 but just hook up the five Meridian 5000 series for the foreseeable future. Based on how the single pair of DSP 5000s sounds in the room now I think that the room will SLAM with five of 'em!

While I'm at it does anyone have any links to sleek, modern theatre designs and color schemes?
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post #37 of 1287 Old 07-06-2011, 12:34 PM
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Hurray for Serenity screen shots in renderings! I'm gonna keep an eye on this build.

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post #38 of 1287 Old 07-06-2011, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post

Hurray for Serenity screen shots in renderings! I'm gonna keep an eye on this build.

Browncoats Unite!

You keeping an eye on my build is quite a compliment. Thanks! I hope I can live up to your example!
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post #39 of 1287 Old 07-06-2011, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I got a handful of samples from GOM (Guilford of Maine) yesterday. One of the samples I got is the FR701 black which I was planning to use for the screen wall.

I was unimpressed with the texture of the FR701 black... It feels and looks like burlap. Is this what people are using for their screen walls? Could I use something from the Anchorage line instead or something else entirely?

I have been thinking about switching to the Seymour XD fabric on a DIY screen build so the AT property of the FR701 is less important to me now. If I recall, BigMouthinDC used velvet for the screen wall...
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post #40 of 1287 Old 07-12-2011, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Just checking in with everybody. Things have been busy with work, family, side jobs, other hobbies! Sheesh!

I wanted to add a couple of pictures to my scrapbook that I'm assembling here.

I saw this different style of chair rail moulding at Home Depot that I thought would serve as a nice transition between upper GOM panels and lower GOM-covered acoustic panels. What do you think?



I also had the opportunity to see a movie in a proper cinema on Sunday and noticed this treatment on the walls that I thought would tie in nicely with the horizontal lines crossing my ceiling.



The new Meridian speakers come in on Friday and I can't wait to try 'em out. I still don't have a surround processor for them, unfortunately. That will have to come next month or the one after that!

I know this is a hotly debated issue but does anyone have a subwoofer suggestion that can keep pace with the Meridians?
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post #41 of 1287 Old 07-12-2011, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Browncoats Unite!

You keeping an eye on my build is quite a compliment. Thanks! I hope I can live up to your example!

HA! I appreciate the support but my build is awfully modest compared to most. I have big ideas, but a very small wallet. Lol.

I just had to laugh when i saw the serenity screenshot in the renderings....i still need to get firefly on blu ray...of course i have them on dvd...but...still...BLU RAY!

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post #42 of 1287 Old 07-12-2011, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post


Browncoats Unite!

You keeping an eye on my build is quite a compliment. Thanks! I hope I can live up to your example!

Like nothing in the 'verse!

Woot!
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post #43 of 1287 Old 07-12-2011, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I have been thinking about switching to the Seymour XD fabric on a DIY screen build so the AT property of the FR701 is less important to me now. If I recall, BigMouthinDC used velvet for the screen wall...

Seymour AV and Velvet is my end goal. Right now im just using a canvas/cotten blend for a screen...its surprisingly AT...although im sure I will trade it out for the seymour material when finances allow.

The only conceivable problem i could see with the AT fabric is if your front row is really close, you might be able to see the weave if you've got really good eyesight and are looking for it.

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post #44 of 1287 Old 07-12-2011, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Like nothing in the 'verse!

Woot!

I still get really angry every time i think about how fox screwed that show over....It was snubbed out WAY before its time. Most shows these days take a season or two to even start getting good...and firefly was hitting home runs from the first episode.

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post #45 of 1287 Old 07-12-2011, 11:43 AM
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I'm using Seymour XD, and I wouldn't concern myself with seeing the weave. I can sit 8' off of a 14' wide screen and not pick up the weave. If your seating falls within recommended seat chart distances, you'll have no issue at all.

I'm using a dark brown Anchorage GOM fabric around a Seymour XD screen. The screen frame is wrapped in velvet, and that is essential for handling light spill.

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post #46 of 1287 Old 07-12-2011, 01:42 PM
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^+1

I can't see any weave from 10' for sure, any closer than that and I start to get motion sick.....

The XD material is top notch IMO. Black velvet is a must for the screen border, I used self adhesive black velvet from AVoutlet and it worked great.

If your thinking AT screen and not doing your screen wall AT, you might want to think about what speakers your using and what heights they would have to be at to stay within the screen. I had to bring my towers up to clear the screen border on the bottom with the mids, the side firing woofs are on the bottom and if it werent AT they'd be bottled up.
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post #47 of 1287 Old 07-13-2011, 06:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post

The only conceivable problem i could see with the AT fabric is if your front row is really close, you might be able to see the weave if you've got really good eyesight and are looking for it.

Oh, I'm not concerned about the weave in the screen material I was just a little nonplussed with the weave on the GOM 703 which I was planning to make the screen wall with.

Quote:
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I'm using a dark brown Anchorage GOM fabric around a Seymour XD screen. The screen frame is wrapped in velvet, and that is essential for handling light spill.

I'm REALLY glad to hear you say that! I like the look of the Anchorage samples that I got. I was concerned that using something heavier than that (less AT) would make the absorption on the wall behind the screen less useful. The Anchorage samples I got are very nice.

I read the PDF on they Seymour site about their DIY screen and it looks fairly straightforward. I was planning to use velvet on the frame like they did in their example.

What do you guys think about speaker placement for the rears (remember, a 5.1 system to start with)? If you look at the latest floorplan idea where would you put these speakers (they're the same as the ones in the front). I think they're too big to put in columns on the side of the room.

I've been thinking about putting them in the rear of the room behind a false AT wall (Anchorage GOM) but then I'd have to get some in-wall side channels.
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post #48 of 1287 Old 08-21-2011, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I know that it has been a while. Life keeps getting in the way! Summer is our busiest time at work and it's hard to come in and do anything with the theatre when I get home at 7 or later.

Here and there, however, I have been designing the room in my head and in Sketchup. I've been rolling ideas around in my head, dismissing them, compromising a bit here and there, etc. I've also been haunting the threads here and saving pictures to my scrapbook folder for reference.

I decided that enough is enough and it was high time I got messy! I tore up the carpet in the basement this morning so that I could make room for the stage. I also knocked out a row of ceramic tiles for the same reason. It was a lot of fun getting the tacking strip up. Hooray for tetanus boosters!



After a little cleanup I went to Lowe's and bought a bunch of pressure treated lumber to build the stage. I'm using 2x10" pressure treated lumber for the project. I figured that would be a good height based on what I've seen here.

This week I'm going to work on building the stage and this coming weekend I'm hoping to be ready for plastic liner and sand.
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post #49 of 1287 Old 08-21-2011, 07:56 PM
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I'm new here, but gotta ask, why pressure treated lumber? Not only is it more expensive, it's moisture content is usually sky high from the pressure treating and when it dries out it shrinks and twists...not fun to work with.

Save yourself a headache and money and consider regular framing lumber.
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post #50 of 1287 Old 08-22-2011, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm new here, but gotta ask, why pressure treated lumber? Not only is it more expensive, it's moisture content is usually sky high from the pressure treating and when it dries out it shrinks and twists...not fun to work with.

Save yourself a headache and money and consider regular framing lumber.

I used PT because this is a concrete foundation in the basement. I'm not sure about code (I assume that wood contacting concrete must be PT) but it just seems like a good idea. The cost isn't that much more expensive and the weight doesn't matter to me.

You make an interesting observation about the moisture content. I haven't worked with PT much before so I'm not sure how much it cups and crowns as it dries.

The only things I'm wondering about are
1. Whether I should use roofing felt underneath this thing *also* and
2. How thick should the plastic liner be to contain the sand is 2mil sufficient or should I be looking at pond liner? I know that I should use the driest sand available (Quickcrete? Without rocks in the bag!)
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post #51 of 1287 Old 08-22-2011, 07:02 AM
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Roofing felt will add all of $15. I would use it whether it's needed or not.

Pressure treated is code here in SC. Not sure about NC? 90% on the forum use it for the reasons you have and I haven't heard anyone complain about twisting. Mine hasn't.

Probably a good idea to let that pressure treated dry a bit before filling with sand. Maybe a few weeks? But get it built and fastened securely as fast as you can.

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post #52 of 1287 Old 08-22-2011, 07:10 AM
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+1

I'd be afraid NOT to use PT, but I tend to over build most stuff. And as long as you frame it up pretty quickly, you should have to worry about twisting/cupping. If you need to store your lumber for any amount of time, you can stack, wrap ratchet straps around it, and tighten them down to make sure it doesn't twist or warp. I've heard of smaller lumber yards actually taking all of the twisted, warped, and cupped boards that get picked over and stacking them and wrapping them in packing banding, then spraying the stack with water to straighten the boards. Then they put the lumber back out on the floor to be sold. There's another useless bit of information for you the next time you're at the lumber yard admiring the perfectly straight 2x you found

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post #53 of 1287 Old 08-22-2011, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention that I bought a Meridian 568.2 for my birthday! My birthday is tomorrow but I figured I'd get myself an early present!

The only thing that the 568.2 leaves to be desired (for me) is its inability to accept the lossless audio from Blu-ray unless there is a player that outputs that lossless track on its coax or toslink output.
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post #54 of 1287 Old 08-22-2011, 07:59 AM
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If you have excessive moisture transmission up through concrete, you should seal it before putting any wood on there.... Duck tape a garbage bag to the bare floor(all four corners) and leave there for 2-3days. Pull up bag and tape. If concrete is darker or discolored or has water or droplets you have a transmission problem. Has a lot to do with how the concrete was prepped before pouring.

Even if the treated doesn't rot it will absorb whatever comes up.... Concrete sealer/paint is cheap.
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post #55 of 1287 Old 08-23-2011, 06:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

If you have excessive moisture transmission up through concrete, you should seal it before putting any wood on there.... Duck tape a garbage bag to the bare floor(all four corners) and leave there for 2-3days. Pull up bag and tape. If concrete is darker or discolored or has water or droplets you have a transmission problem. Has a lot to do with how the concrete was prepped before pouring.

Even if the treated doesn't rot it will absorb whatever comes up.... Concrete sealer/paint is cheap.

Thanks, I will do that test before I slide the stage into its final position.
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post #56 of 1287 Old 08-23-2011, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Nice progress last night! After your suggestions I decided to buy some 30# roofing felt to put under the stage. I'm going to roll that out after the stage is framed out to its full size. The overall stage depth is 4' with a length of 13'-7". You can see that I have only managed to build the back 30 inches so far... this is where the speakers will sit. I originally planned to make the stage 3' deep but decided to extend that based on what I've read in stickied "sutff I wished I did differently" thread.








Right now the stage isn't in its final position. It's heavy as can be but I'll be able to slide it into final position on top of the roofing felt in another few nights of work. I'm glad that I bought the giant box of screws! Furthermore, I'm thrilled that I bought the star-head screws and a corded drill for this job. Yay! New tools!

How much space should I leave on either side for the carpet to roll down the left-hand side (onto the tile)? I was assuming about 1/2" to 3/4". I was planning to leave a gap of 1/2" or so away from the two walls. Sound good?
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post #57 of 1287 Old 08-28-2011, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Woohoo! I got a lot of stage building accomplished this weekend in addition to having a surprise birthday party thrown for me at my house on Friday night! I was totally surprised by my awesome wife who announced to me when I walked in the door that all of my friends would be there in 10 minutes! Ha! She told me that we were going to go bowling!

On Saturday and Sunday I framed out the stage. This week and next weekend I'll see about sand and insulation.

Build video:



I learned a lot about this process while doing it. You can see in the video that I've already taken some advice from you all and I have two identical tape measures and I'm keeping my saw close by! I made a few mistakes, had a lot of fun, and even learned about how I'll build it next time!

Status as of tonight:


And finally, here's me dancing on top of the finished framing.

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post #58 of 1287 Old 08-28-2011, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

If you use treated lumber you could just rest it on top. I used non-treated and put down a layer of #30 roofing felt on the concrete. The stage should be detached from the walls -- leave a 1/4" to 1/2" gap all around. If you are going to fill the stage with sand there is no need to anchor it since the sand will hold it in place. I built my riser in a similar way but because it was not sand filled I did anchor each corner to the concrete with a large tapcon. This was also a precaution against the green lumber from warping.

Moggie, I just realized that I never thanked you for this information. I did exactly as you prescribed. There's about a 1/2" gap around the perimeter.
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post #59 of 1287 Old 08-28-2011, 07:39 PM
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You should have put the party guests to work on the theater Love the time lapsed video, keep it up !
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post #60 of 1287 Old 08-28-2011, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Moggie, I just realized that I never thanked you for this information. I did exactly as you prescribed. There's about a 1/2" gap around the perimeter.

Cool, looks good! You are a better dancer than me ;-)

BTW I loved your time lapsed video of the stage build, especially the part when your wife comes in and tells you how to finish it ... you don't need sound to tell the story!!

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