Sony VW1000 4k, 13' Scope, and Ten 21 Inch Subs - Page 17 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #481 of 486 Old 10-04-2016, 10:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I am buying a One-Off trio of 3 way passive LT20s for LCR. The LT10s will be used as heights.

Demolition of my screen and baffle walls will not be fun but think will have to since these cabinets are so so much bigger than the JTRs.

I don't know how the baffle wall needs to be built yet. I don't know if I should toe them and if so how much. Hopefully Peter and Roger will be able to help with this.
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post #482 of 486 Old 10-06-2016, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok. With all the bad luck that put my room and this thread to bed I'm going to officially end it when I start tearing it apart. That way I can start from scratch in both places. Hopefully HT2.0 will go much smoother and actually perform even better.

Right now I'm just at a stand still- waiting on LT20s and trying to find a program that is both easy to learn and can run on apple products for drawing up the space. I can't stand sketchup for some reason.
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post #483 of 486 Old 10-06-2016, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post
...
I don't know if I should toe them and if so how much. Hopefully Peter and Roger will be able to help with this.
It depends on how directional the tweeters are. I toed my Dynaudios in just on principle. I did the geometry so the dispersion cone of the tweeters covers the most seating area. It all depends on the speaker/seating geometry and disbursement characteristics. In my setup is pretty slight... like 13 degrees.
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post #484 of 486 Old 10-07-2016, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post
It depends on how directional the tweeters are. I toed my Dynaudios in just on principle. I did the geometry so the dispersion cone of the tweeters covers the most seating area. It all depends on the speaker/seating geometry and disbursement characteristics. In my setup is pretty slight... like 13 degrees.
Yea their pattern is 45x100 so I would guess very little toe is needed.

My JTRs were 90x90 conical and called for an 180* baffle wall with no toe.

Last edited by audiovideoholic; 10-07-2016 at 09:38 AM.
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post #485 of 486 Old 10-07-2016, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm think of just enough toe for the L and R to equal the same distance to the MLP as the C. That would add just enough toe that it would help rear wall direct reflections, add better coverage of overlap for all rows, and eliminate the distance issue for DSP timing. That scenario would kill three birds with one stone easily and help with a few other issues as well like spraying the side walls with off axis waves. The limited toe would also help punch through the micro perfed screen instead of having too much of an angle bounce a lot back at the wall.

That's just what I've been thinking but have also been waiting for some input from a calibrator that will be working in my room.
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post #486 of 486 Old 10-13-2016, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok. It's a done deal. Had a health related set back but home now and got all the details squared away.

Three LT20s with hand picked AMTs, custom star quad internal cabling, 2-AP950s and 1 AP2800 all 240v.

I still need to get an amp(s) for the AMTs and two minidsp10x10hds but that is a ways off since still need to tear down the walls and start all over at which point I will most likely start a HT2.0 thread. These mains are massive lol.
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