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post #1 of 32 Old 04-20-2011, 11:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Update 7/25/13:

So finally back at work again on the theater. We had a baby on 5/1 so that has slowed progress down considerably. I brought in some help to get things moving again. Since my last update I have the line sets ran for the mini split HVAC, hat channel and clips installed, finished insulating interior walls, ran all the speaker wire, electrical is roughed in and am getting drywall in either Friday or Saturday. I rushed so much that i hope i am not missing anything before the drywall goes up. However i am lucky that i have full access above the lid in room after drywall and have a 2 foot crawl space below the floor of the theater as there used to be a small pool resting in the middle of a room on a big cement slab. This gives me the opportunity to run additional lines for electrical and/or speaker or other cabling from either above or below the theater in case i forgot anything.

 

Some Room Info:

Room: 15'7"W x 23'6" L x roughly 8-9' H pre wall covering

This is a main floor theater.  I implemented my old materials into a basement pseudo 114" theater/tv room.

DD and GG has been installed and completed.  Per John and Ted from Soundproofing company i was told to not worry about channel and clips on the lid because of the attic space above and adjacent to the room on 1 side and outside walls on the other 3 sides above the theater. 

 

Equipment:

Screen; Seymour 120-130"  

PJ: Leaning towards Sony HW50ES but havent made the buy yet. 

Receiver: undecided but will be 11.2 ready.

Speakers: Polk RTIA9 7.2 but will be wired for 11.2

Sub: SVS 12PB and polk DSW12

Rack:Middle Atlantic 7 Space  KD Rack Frame

 

As you can see my earlier posts the room was 100% complete as a family room.  I have since tore down the entire log siding from the interior. 

 

Here are a couple humble sketchup models.  I dont have the riser incorporated yet and this was just an early render so nothing set in stone.  

 

 

 

 

 

Here are some before pics of my current room. 

Proposed back of the room:


Proposed Screen wall:




Left of Screen Wall:


Current Pics:

 

Front of room to the left and right side exterior wall with 2 6'x6' windows which made this a fun build to work around.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rear of room with 36" entry door to right.  Will be using a 1-3/4" solid core flush door coupled with a 1-3/8" 6 panel pine door for the outside of the theater to match the interior doors of the home.  I will make my own door jamb and heavy duty hinges to support the heavy large door. Was considering using a secret bookcase door, but not sure if the budget will allow

 

 

if i have the time maybe I might try building one of these, but might be too much work vs. benefit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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post #2 of 32 Old 04-21-2011, 01:07 AM
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If you don't want to tear down the room but do want it dark you could just cover is all. Fabric panels, fake columns and suspended ceiling could be used to great effect - no one would no that it's a light, bright log room.
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post #3 of 32 Old 04-21-2011, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comment.

I do suppose i could do something along those lines. I am not a huge fan of suspended ceilings though, unless they have come out with some better looking ones than i have seen in the past. I wasn't as concerned about the darkness of the room, more the concern of how the sound will be with the combination of the tile floor, and slanted ceiling?

I assume only options would be to use sound panels on the walls and large area rugs. I was thinking of doing a stage again and wasnt sure how to go about it. I would think just a carpeted stage and tile floor would somewhat clash. Perhaps just a finished wood floor stage filled with sand?
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post #4 of 32 Old 04-21-2011, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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in terms of my equipment here is what i currently have.

I have onyx rockets 7.1 speaker system
SVS PB-12 Sub
Onkyo TX-SR705
PS3
XBOX 360
Wii
Middle Atlantic rack
Marantz VP4001 which i am likely replacing for a 1080p even though that PJ has a very nice picture
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post #5 of 32 Old 04-29-2011, 08:13 AM
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With the asymmetrical sloped ceiling, you will want to treat the ceiling too. Otherwise it will skew your sound as well just by putting the reflections coming from odd places.

I don't know how ambitious you are, but if the suspended ceiling does not work, any thoughts to squaring it out with solid construction? You could get an odd-shaped 'attic' type storage area if you did that. It would be a big project however and should include professional design work to achieve.

I can picture how it might look in my mind, but it would be a big change in feel from the room you have now. In addition to the extra storage (we all need that, don't we?) it would add some symmetry and make the acoustics easier to figure out and plan for.
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post #6 of 32 Old 04-29-2011, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. Yeah i had figured to get the best sound i would need to do something with the ceiling. It is just less desirable since the house is a log home. In terms of storage, we have plenty due to the size of the home being over 5k sq ft already and we havent even tapped into the 1200 sq ft storage above the garage.

if i keep the ceiling as is and use sound panels should help matters a bit, right? I never used them in my other theater but only assume they do a good job
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post #7 of 32 Old 04-29-2011, 09:29 AM
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Could you use suspended sound panels?

something kinda of like this



more examples HERE

Something like that should help with the acoustics, but no ruin the look of your cabin...

And from the looks of it could be pretty DIY friendly.

Shades of Grey Theater

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Currently Playing: CoD Black Ops II

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post #8 of 32 Old 04-29-2011, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Those panel options look like something i could manage.

Maybe something like these:

I might just build the stage and get everything set up just to see how badly the sound would be as i can obviously add those sound panels after the fact. I just feel that if the walls were sheetrock, the panels would blend well, but with wood walls they might be an eye sore.

Do you think a wood floored stage would have a better look than a carpeted one? I just think having the entire floor being tile with large area rugs and the walls being wood, that the stage being the only part of the room being carpeted might look funny. I saw a couple nicely done wood floored stages in someones theater thread.
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post #9 of 32 Old 04-29-2011, 10:17 AM
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I like the look of wood just about anywhere. The drawback you face is that wood is a reflecting surface, so you will be adding another reflective surface to the room.

With that said - from a looks point of view, I would go with the wood stage for that room. Carpet would look out of place. The only other options would be stone or tile like you have elsewhere in the room. Out of all of those options, I think the wood would look the best. Plus, with as much reflecting surfaces as you have already, I would not expect it to adversely affect the sound in any noticeable way.

See how it sounds without any treatments - I expect it would sound muddled to me. To get the room to the level that some others here have achieved will take a huge amount of treatment. I don't know how far you are willing to go, but based on being in this forum and having previously had a home theater, that you will need to do some significant treatments to get to where you are satisfied with that room.

To make the treatments you are considering stand out less, perhaps match the log walls with wood frames (stain/treat the wood to match what you have) and have the center portions color matched to the tile or stone that is in the room. It will still be visible and clearly acoustic treatments, but those steps can help it stick out less.
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post #10 of 32 Old 04-29-2011, 11:36 AM
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Another log home owner, cool!
Post a pict of your home exterior shot.
Here's mine, we built our loghome and move in May-2002, here it is, front and back showing walkout view:





I see your RH side has windows, so how would you handle the 1st reflections for that wall?
I'm guessing you don't want to cover them permanetly, so they would sit on movable stands?


For ceiling I made these hanging "acoustic clouds", you could easily do same, just suspend them from longer chain or coated steel cable.
Also, I have pine framed side panels shown.


btw, don't forget your corner broadband bass traps either.....
With your wood wall might consider these construction as stand alone vs build on wall bass traps.


details in my sig DIY Acoustic treatments link.

I also think if you do want a stage to make it wood, same planking as your LH wall.

Sounds like a fun project ahead for you, good luck!
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post #11 of 32 Old 04-29-2011, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a picture of the outside front:

 



Back:

 



We moved in a couple months ago. Place was built in '99.

In terms of the windows that wont be an issue with black out blinds. Had a nice pair in my previous theater and hardly knew we had windows in the room.

I didnt use any sound treatments in my last theater outside of filling the stage and riser with sand to deaden the sound. I was happy with the sound before, but again it was a regular sheet rock ceiling too.

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post #12 of 32 Old 03-27-2013, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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After nearly 2 years after moving in, i am starting to get serious and begin construction on my less than ideal for a theater room. I have included updated pictures and some sketch up renderings at the top and slowing adding my equipment.
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post #13 of 32 Old 03-27-2013, 01:31 PM
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Welcome back!
For your speakers look at the DIY forum and flat packs, they are pre cut pieces.
Great way for your subwoofers and even your mains/surrounds.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/

Apply savings to other items, like PJ.


Sent from my 32GB iPhone4 using Tapatalk
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post #14 of 32 Old 03-28-2013, 06:05 AM
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Where is your log home? I have a vacation cabin in the mountains of north GA in a little town called Blue Ridge.

Bud
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post #15 of 32 Old 03-28-2013, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Where is your log home? I have a vacation cabin in the mountains of north GA in a little town called Blue Ridge.

Bud

Hi Bud,

our home is located in SE MN near Rochester.
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post #16 of 32 Old 04-30-2013, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some updated pictures of the demo and build.

This one is back of theater and removing the existing closet.


Here are the new ceiling joists. Squared out the ceiling and removed the slope. Height of ceiling will be just about 8' after serenity mat and new subfloor/carpet is added


Patio door and closet out with new walls and door frame 36" 1-3/4 solid core with possible double 1 3/4 + 1-3/8" GG together


Will be running lines for the mini split tomorrow and building framework around the troublesome and large windows on the wall with fireplace. I will be adding a fake wall around the windows to downsize them and utilizing plugs. I want to be able to pull the plugs out in the future for moisture concerns(MN weather) and be able to enjoy the view while watching some sports or television during the day.

Got in all the soundproofing materials today via pallet.

will be using the GG/IB-1 clips/DD. Wont have a need for clips/channel on the ceiling per Ted because of the addition of the new joists and the insulated vacant space above the false ceiling.

3/8" serenity mat will be laid over existing floor tile with 3/4" T&G OSB with carpet/pad.

Thinking about implementing a stage similar to Mario's cinemar theater. Will have a soffit around the perimeter a

I have polk RTIA9 for the L/R
Polk CSIA6 Center
Polk FXIA4 for surround and rear
Polk DSW pro 660wi Sub
SVS PB12 Sub
Thinking of the Sony HW50 PJ and undecided for the receiver at this time.

Will be future proofing with wiring being added for 11.2, but will start with 7.2 for time being.
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post #17 of 32 Old 07-25-2013, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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So finally back at work again on the theater. We had a baby on 5/1 so that has slowed progress down considerably. I brought in some help to get things moving again. Since my last update I have the line sets ran for the mini split HVAC, hat channel and clips installed, finished insulating interior walls, ran all the speaker wire, electrical is roughed in and am getting drywall in either Friday or Saturday. I rushed so much that i hope i am not missing anything before the drywall goes up. However i am lucky that i have full access above the lid in room after drywall and have a 2 foor crawl space below the floor of the theater as there used to be a small pool resting in the middle of a room on a big cement slab. This gives me the opportunity to run additional lines for electrical and/or speaker or other cabling from either above or below the theater in case i forgot anything.

Here are some up to date pictures.

Snapshot of the future place for my equipment rack. Will be reusing my middle Atlantic rack from prior theater. Rack will be to the right of the fireplace on top of the riser. I will be adding some casters to allow me to pull out the rack to allow for configuration of the equipment.


Finished adding insulation to the interior wall today:


Started the 2" rigid foil faced insulation for the window cavity. Will finish tomorrow morning: you can see the small leftover opening that wont get sheet rocked. The first window will be completely covered up with sheetrock save a small window plug to allow access to check for moisture issues. I will be crafting either a window plug or some sort of cabinet door type opening for the second window that will have the opening. I want to enjoy the view from the front of our house after the theater is complete. We have zero neighbors around us so im not the least bit concerned about noise going out the exterio
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post #18 of 32 Old 07-25-2013, 09:34 PM - Thread Starter
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If anyone can think of something that looks out of place or ideas any help would be appreciated. I will be running a 1" flex conduit before the sheet rock goes up, but with access above and below im not overly concerned about forgetting something.
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post #19 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the DD and GG(minus the lid)drywall installed this past weekend. Now I am working with GIK acoustics to come up with a room treatment plan. Planning on incorporating a craftsman style column with 2 on each of the sides and 2 in the rear adjacent to the mini split with the lower portion of the columns in stone to match the fireplace. Will have the drywall mud and taped in the next couple weeks and get the soffit construction started. Trying to decide if i should use the soffit as a bass trap or not before i begin the build.

here are some completed pictures.







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post #20 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 02:40 PM
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Nice log home! Our family moved into a log house last year. Nothing like being surrounded by wood on all sides!
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post #21 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! I agree. it is nice being away from neighbors and having privacy! where is your log home located?
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post #22 of 32 Old 08-02-2013, 10:42 AM
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We're in Colorado near Breckenridge Ski Resort. We're close as the crow flies, but there is a big mountain range between us and the resort. Lots of big ranches and second homes in our neighborhood. We are one of the few full timers.

We have a 30x40 out building on the property that I'm (slowly) turning into a home theater.

Looks like you must have a lot of land, I don't see any neighbors near by. Always a good thing when home theater is involved. biggrin.gif

Good luck with your build!

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post #23 of 32 Old 09-04-2013, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some updates.

Got the serenity mat(soundproofing company) installed





and the new 3/4 T&G Subfloor put down.


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post #24 of 32 Old 09-04-2013, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Next i will be building the stage and riser followed by the soffits.

i will be using the straight stage option that NYGIANTSFAN23 used in his build with Big.




I am debating on whether or not to use my berklines for front row and traditional theater seats for the 2nd row in hopes of adding a small bar/seating area behind 2nd row.

Any one here go with the 2 style seat options and are happy with their decision? Not sure how it will look using 2 styles. otherwise i can just go with 2 rows of the berkline recliners.
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post #25 of 32 Old 09-04-2013, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Getting ready to get the acoustical treatments nailed down.

Ive read that linacoustic is pretty similar in acoustic properties as the OC703 is in addition to cheaper and somewhat easier to work with. has anyone worked with both and can confirm?

Also will be doing 2" either linacoustic/OC703 on front wall with chunks in the front corners.

Planning on using 4" of material on the back wall. Will that be best to use 4" of OC703 or linacoustic or do i need to get some reflective material for the highs/mids to not be absorbed on the back wall. Also likely will be doing some corner chunks of OC703 in the back wall.

Lastly on the side walls i have heard that the rear of the room should be treated from the bottom up to ear level and then floor to ceiling coverage in at least 2" material in front of the room.

Most theaters i see built here seem to use a lower wainscotting material which obviously is reflective and not absorbing much. Do people opt for a trade off for aesthetics vs sound treatments?

For the soffit i might try to make those bass traps by wrapping them all in GOM instead of finishing with sheetrock. Do you think that will be overkill? ive heard/read it is difficult to do too much bass trapping.

Thanks for any feedback!
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post #26 of 32 Old 09-05-2013, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmasterson View Post

Do people opt for a trade off for aesthetics vs sound treatments?

For the soffit i might try to make those bass traps by wrapping them all in GOM instead of finishing with sheetrock. Do you think that will be overkill? ive heard/read it is difficult to do too much bass trapping.

Yes, quite a lot of trade offs there.

If I do any soffits at all, I would do the same.

Under construction: the Larch theater
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post #27 of 32 Old 09-29-2013, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some updates on the stage and riser construction

Since theater is on the main floor i didnt opt for filling the entire stage with sand. I made little pockets under the left and right speakers and sub placement.

Went with 2x10" and 2x4" for the step. 2 layers of 3/4" OSB with roofing felt and green glue sandwiched between layers. The blue tape is representative of the 2.35:1 130" AT screen from seymour that ill be getting soon.



Still need to screw in the two top layers down but laid down for now:



Working on the riser. Comprised of 2x12" outside perimeter and 2x10" inside bracing. Will use mid span supports.



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post #28 of 32 Old 09-29-2013, 09:14 PM
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understand kids and distractions, my basement took 2005-2008, then HT 2009 - still evolving!

Keep at it.
btw, have you re-stained your exterior side of logs yet?
These 50' boom cranes make the job go faster, and save you $$$$ from paying someone else to do it
2011%2520re-stain%2520log%2520home.jpg
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post #29 of 32 Old 09-29-2013, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Mike,

isnt that the truth!! I remember my HT 1.0 and being able to work well into the night and not worrying about making noise. Now with the kiddos and work it makes it hard to get things done.

You have a nice place! I am the 3rd owner of the house(built 1999) and it has been stained or maintenance coat(sikkens brand) around every 3 years or so. I personally am in the middle of the 2nd maintenance coat since ive owned it. Doesnt entirely need it but some areas do and living in MN it is a crap shoot how bad the winter will be up here. I hired it out the first time for around $6-7k materials and labor. Sikkens is around $80/gallon so lots of material cost. Anyhow i am trying my hand at doing it myself this time. The former home owner left behind a hydraulic personnel lift for me so i am planning on using it for the 30' peaks. However i must say i am surprised at how fast it really is going. I dont think ill pay someone to do it again. My dad is helping me and surprised at how easy and quick it is going with just a ladder and some large brushes. Id say we could get the entire house hand washed and then applying maintenance coat in about 50-60 hours. That being said if i had that huge lift it would make life a lot easier!!!

what does it cost to rent one of those booms? The other thing i am in the process of doing is caulking in between each seam to help with energy efficiency and prevent water leakage. We are high on a hill and the wind wreaks havoc when we get a driving rain and some rain finds its way inside through some of the log seams. We love living in the log house and wouldnt trade it for anything
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post #30 of 32 Old 10-01-2013, 09:26 AM
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Log home stuff:
I rent the boom crane over the weekend, this way Sunday is a "free" work day, I paid $285 last time, you also need a safety harness, I bought one for $60.
What I done get done what I can on the big weekend with that boom crane, I then finish with 32 ft ladder on other weekends.
I use a simple garden backpack 5 gal sprayer, then brush it back/forth.
Got this from Lowes, safer on the ladder with this on back than to hold a smaller 1.5 gal sprayer in 1 hand while working on ladder - as I did for first re-staining in 2006.
solo-backpack-sprayer.jpg

I did exactly same as you, major caulking/sealing a few years back for cold air leakage
Logs do "check", crack open, so need to use caulk + backer rod on any gap over 1/8" or 3/16".
Caulk I have good success with: http://www.westernloghomesupply.com/log-builder-chinking.html
Backer rod: http://www.westernloghomesupply.com/backer-rod.html
Backer rod - I got 100ft of each 1/4", 3/8" dia, and 50ft of 1/2" dia 7-8 year ago, and every season have applied it here and there till just now almost used up.

I had to re-do some of the log gable side roof flashing to prevent water from seepeage around it, once that was done no leaks into the home. Those are things people with "stick home" don't ever see, as log settling means special construction techniques to allow for it.
Like you, the minor items are well worth the cozy feeling of natural materials.
Are you like me, when gone say 5-6 days on business trip/vacation, then return to home you can smell the wood again?
Great feeling.

HT stuff;
Acoustics - I'll chime in later, as busy at work now.
In general, I'm against the "throw linacoustic up to ear level" mind set.....
Look at the link in my SIG on DIY Acoustics...
mtbdudex is offline  
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